Jump to content
EwinRacing Flash Series Gaming Chairs

Recommended Posts

First of all, let me say I haven't finished yet. I'm still working on it and will update this thread from time to time due to much work at the moment.

When I fitted my 940xm and the 7970m I got really mad of the heat and the fan noises even in idle mode. So I decided to get it all cooled with a silent, most important quiet, external water cooling system. I checked the internet and found evth I need to get it done. The most difficult thing was to find slim water blocks to cover the dies. I will list all the parts I used with article number and website if you're interested at the end of this post.

First the overview. These parts are going to be used:

post-4834-14494993752392_thumb.jpg

Actually not much, so let's start.

I start tubing at the inner hose socket of the reserator. This is the place where the pump is placed behind. You have to use a 10/8mm hose. By this, 10mm means the outside diameter of the hose, 8mm means the inside diameter. This is very important to know by everything you do on water cooling systems due to different fittings, barbs or reducers.

Fit the hose and tighten it well with a spanner.

post-4834-14494993752814_thumb.jpg

Now you need a reducer to get on a 8/6mm hose. This is necessary to get in fitted to the chiller.

post-4834-1449499375326_thumb.jpg

At the other end you need to fit the 8/6mm hose.

After this is done the 8/6mm hose leads into the chiller. A chiller pushs down your temps to a predefined value set by you, the minimum you can get theoretically is +3°C. Basically you can say it works like a refrigerator. This is very helpfully when you start gaming or other intense work on the laptop to keep the temps low.

Here are some pics of it.

post-4834-14494993754154_thumb.jpg

To get the hose fitted the first custom made had to be done. Maybe I didn't know how it actually works, but I had no clue how else to do it without a modification...

As you can see on the picture, the 1/4" adapter didn't fit to the chiller's nozzle. I really don't know what's the original idea by the developers.

post-4834-14494993754378_thumb.jpg

So the first adjustment had to be made. Cut the end of the nozzle as you can see on the pic.

post-4834-14494993754619_thumb.jpg

When this was done I noticed really pour casting quality inside the nozzle. This would massively reduce your flow speed.

post-4834-14494993754841_thumb.jpg

So I used a drill to get it out.

post-4834-14494993755082_thumb.jpg

Finally I got an outside diameter of 13mm at the nozzle.

post-4834-1449499375531_thumb.jpg

The adapter has 12mm inside diameter

post-4834-14494993755527_thumb.jpg

So just perfect to cut a M14 thread to both parts.

post-4834-14494993755997_thumb.jpg

Unfortunately I couldn't get closer due to the layout of the die.

post-4834-14494993756226_thumb.jpg

two washers solve this problem to get it proper tightened.

post-4834-1449499368765_thumb.jpg

To get it proper sealed I used teflon tape. Just the best way to get something sealed. Don't do it without any sealing!

post-4834-14494993756458_thumb.jpg

Use some Vaseline before you stick in the nozzles.

post-4834-14494993756686_thumb.jpg

Do the same with second side of course. At the end it'll look like that.

post-4834-14494993687951_thumb.jpg

Let's get to the CPU water block. I purchased the Thermaltake CL-W0052 Tide Water, originally made for desktop PCs to cool down the graphics card, on ebay to get all the stuff I'll need to do it. I chose that one because the water block has just a height of 8mm. Also all the hoses and clamps will be helpful.

post-4834-14494993688184_thumb.jpg

First drain the coolant.

post-4834-14494993688439_thumb.jpg

Then I opened the chassis and robbed all hoses and clamps. You'll need them in a couple of minutes. They're all bonded quite well, so just cut them at the ends.

post-4834-14494993688652_thumb.jpg

I also cut and removed the hoses of the water block itself, just to make sure everything is okay. I didn't want to get upset when I filled the system with water. So I cut them and removed the old adhesive.

post-4834-14494993689215_thumb.jpg

I then removed the original cpu heatsink

post-4834-14494993689494_thumb.jpg

and compared the die with the water block

post-4834-14494993689774_thumb.jpg

The water block as it was out from the box was just a touch too small to fit correctly onto the die. So I just removed the tape around the block. Now it was ready to get fitted.

All I needed to do was loosing the existing bolts on the water block and tightened it with M2.5x20 hex nut bolts into the existing holes. At the end it looks like that.

post-4834-14494993691054_thumb.jpg

By the way, the mosfet heatsinks came with the tide water vga cooler. I also fitted the black hoses as they were, just without the glew and it still seals perfectly.

To get the hoses guided out of the laptop you need to remove your fan control at the back of your laptop. When you're doing this, be careful not to touch the chassis as I did with whatever you use. I used the dremel and didn't see it for a while. What a shame!

post-4834-14494993748215_thumb.jpg

Nevermind, so let's get over to the gpu side. I bought a very tiny water block with just 15x15x7mm dimensions to not to exceed the height. So may be later I will be able to fit the backplate cover again.

post-4834-1449499369129_thumb.jpg

The water blocks would actually fit on the die, perfectly. But due to the layout of the gpu die the block just fits in diagonal postion. So useless for me.

post-4834-1449499374878_thumb.jpg

To get the water block in the right direction I unsoldered the copper plate of the original heatsink. That one has got the right dimensions to get this solved.

post-4834-14494993749822_thumb.jpg

Clean the copper plate from the old tin on top by using the Dremel or sandpaper.

post-4834-14494993750054_thumb.jpg

At the end that's the way it should work. Just to mention, also the holder came with Thermaltake tide water cooler. The bolts I bought seperatly on ebay. They are M1.6x20 but too long, so I cut them down to 15mm. Now they fit into the existing holes and push down the block properly

post-4834-14494993750303_thumb.jpg

Use now the -->small<-- black hoses robbed from Thermaltake chassis. These are the inside hoses, they're smaller. You need to use some adhesive because the clamps coming with the hoses are just a way too big and don't keep it tight to nozzle.

post-4834-14494993750583_thumb.jpg

Now just add some thermal paste between copper plate and die, and copper plate and water block. Tighten it all down.

post-4834-14494993750809_thumb.jpg

Finally it looks like that.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5105[/ATTACH]

hoses leaded through the fan grill, gpu side. I mention again, just temporarily cause I'm still waiting for parts. in progress...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5107[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]5106[/ATTACH]

cpu side

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5108[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5109[/ATTACH]

The hose laying is actually just in common sense. Nothing particular I should mention.

Reserator -> 10/8mm hose -> 10/8mm to 8/6mm reducer -> 1/4" compression fitting -> 1/4" adapter for chiller -> chiller nozzle -> chiller -> nozzle, adapter, fitting -> 8/6mm hose -> Y-splitter

post-4834-14494993756927_thumb.jpg

first end hose -> 8/6mm hose -> quick coupling -> black hose (termaltake tide water) -> cpu block inlet-> cpu outlet -> black hose -> quick coupling -> 8/6mm -> Y-splitter

second end hose -> 8/6mm hose -> 6mm barb -> small black hose (thermaltake tide water) -> gpu block inlet -> gpu outlet -> small black hose -> 6mm barb -> 8/6mm hose -> Y-splitter

|

Y-splitter -> 8/6mm hose -> 10/8 to 8/6mm reducer -> reserator

update in progress...

post-4834-14494993688951_thumb.jpg

post-4834-1449499369008_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993690328_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993690573_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993690812_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993748514_thumb.jpg

post-4834-1449499374904_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993749304_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993749564_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993752577_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993753043_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993753491_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993753752_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993753955_thumb.jpg

post-4834-14494993755753_thumb.jpg

  • Thumbs Up 14

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You sir are my hero! Awesome work. I love the pics you did amazing. Keep up the outstanding modding!

Paranoid Galaxy S3 on Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

updated the pics. nearly all working now. need to figure out what's worng with the others. tomorrow I will add temperatures and benchmarks. Let's see if I can get higher clocks without throttling. But now it's time for a couple of beer :)

  • Thumbs Up 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

4ghz 920xm with 1050/1650 7970m ftw :P okay maybe not. Im sure there is plenty of potential though. :)

Paranoid Galaxy S3 on Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well, now the bottleneck will be the supply of adequate power by the mobo...

that's true, unfortunately :(

but even by moderate OCing the cpu and gpu, I got drops due to high temps on the gpu. So now it's quite more stable and should get just a bit more performance. Maybe there's a little bird, telling me a mobo mod to get some more power on the mobo ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent write up, and nice work! I have to ask though, for all this the system will be tied to the desk, why not just get a desktop?

Sent from my Samsung Captivate/ICS CM9 via Tapatalk.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Excellent write up, and nice work! I have to ask though, for all this the system will be tied to the desk, why not just get a desktop?

Sent from my Samsung Captivate/ICS CM9 via Tapatalk.

Because I already have a laptop^^ a desktop is much more expensive and wouldn't be something special, actually ;)

I don't need the laptop as a "laptop" anymore. Got a asus transformer tablet with keyboard. So no reason to keep the heavy laptop handy. Also it'll be an eye catcher once all is propper placed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice!

Best example of water cooling on a notebook that I have seen online.

Can't wait for more updates.

I could see myself following this guide some day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jahsinn, awesome mod! Thats a lot of dedication and effort. Since you overclock your GPU. What are the voltage on the GPU and whats your CPU overclock settings at? Since you're eliminated thermal throttling and your temps are absolutely amazing, brilliant even.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh how I miss my days of liquid cooling. My desktop was fitted with a beauty 3/4' ID setup that worked wonders and was quiet as could be. This brings me back! I switched back to regular air cooling since I wouldn't have the time to change the coolant every now and then or refit the waterblocks when I changed my hardware when I went to university.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I too look forward to seeing some data regarding this. :) Nice work!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice DIY you got there, make me want to mod my machine in a similar way. plz give us updates on the temp.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting for me - as I started something similar with my 8560p EliteBook. Now what's different - I abandoned the original shell which also made me free to use rather awkward desktop water blocks for now.

Display is on the same side as keyboard, water pump is AlphaCool bulk bottom with custom top of epoxy resine. 160 mm fan (advertised as 230mm as yes - 160 is propeler itself) makes the cooling. I am rather curious about the pics attached here - as a newcomer I am not allowed to see them yet. This post however seems as a lucky mod, now I wonder where have the tems gone?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Amazing that you did this with M15x, but do you have an M18x R1/R2 to try it with? I feel like watercooling that will yield much better returns for the work you put in, lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not if the m15x is the primary machine. Don't write the little machine off yet I have the CPU at 3.7 - 4ghz on heavily modded air let alone water!

This mod could yield pretty amazing results!

Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By DoenerBoy123
      Hello guys 
       
      I've got a pretty weird problem with my M18x R2. I already searched the web but couldn't find an answer. A few days ago I changed some settings in the bios, if I remember correctly DMVT Pre-Allocated.
      After saving this setting the notebook refuses to even POST. I get no beep errors or anything. If I press the power button the system turns on, the leds turn on and then the system shuts itself off. I already reset the cmos, the IME, tested different configurations and so on. If I remove all the memory sticks I actually get the memory error code. At this point I'm pretty sure that the bios got corrupted for some reason when saving these mentioned settings. Did anyone had a similar problem and got a solution for this? I repaired lot's of notebook but never had an error like this...
      The Bios installed is the a15 unlocked.
    • By Henrik9979
      Okay here is what's going. I have a alienware m18x r1 running an amd 8970m, I wanted to upgrade it to crossfire but I could see a 8970m was more expensive than a r9 m290x
      So I decided to buy a r9 m290x and see if I could make it work in my alienware and also run crossfire.
      Even though many shops refused to sell me one because the didn't think it would work in an alienware m18x r1 only in the r2.
       
      Here is the whole process.
       
      19/08/17 23:15
      No post bios showing when booting, so impossible to enter bios menu, but can boot into windows 10 with no problems.
       
      19/08/17 23:20
      Because I haven't deleted the old AMD 8970m the r9 m290x shows as a 8970m with no problems.
       
      19/08/17 23:34
      First performance test was a success. The r9 m290x changed p-state normally. The gpu fan start spinning normally. But because of no thermal paste, the test lasted 20 seconds because the temperature raised fast.
       
      20/08/17 00:00
      Created a backup of the vbios version
      015.032.000.004.044450
       
      20/08/17 00:10
      Flashed a new clevo vbios version 015.032.000.003.044465
      Caused the card to be corrupted and resulted the 8 beep code.
       
      20/08/17 00:35
      Finally managed to flash the back and return the graphics card to its original state.

      20/08/17 00:50
      Flashed a new dell vbios version 015.046.000.014.045579
      No change in behavior
       
      20/08/17 01:07
      After trying multiple vbios with no luck I finally found one.
      Dell vbios Version 015.041.000.000.044966
      Brings back the post bios screen and I can now enter the bios menu through the r9 m290x.
      Note: This vbios reduce the cards performance from 900 mhz to 850 mhz
       
      20/08/17 01:21
      After more testing I found one that is working with no limits.
      Clevo vbios version
      015.036.000.005.044618
      Brings back the post bios screen and I can now enter the bios menu through the r9 m290x.
      This will be the vbios I will keep at the moment.

      20/08/17 01:56
      I completely uninstalled the previous driver and installed the newest driver. The graphics card is recognized as a 8970m but works normal.

      21/08/17 20:15
      I have inserted my old 8970m in the secondary slot and will start testing crossfire.
       
      21/08/17 21:45
      I have found out that the fan for the secondary fan did not spin. The is a cable that have felt out. I will fix it now.

      21/08/17 22:00
      In my try to test crossfire compatibility, I installed the newest AMD driver 17.7.2 but as soon it installed the driver for the secondary card it caused black screen. Only booting the computer in safe mode brings the screen back.

      21/08/17 23:02
      After many frustrating hours I finally managed to get crossfire working with the r9 m290x as the primary card and my old 8970m as the secondary.
      I have flashed the same vbios on both cards so the r9 m290x shows up I device manager as a 8970m.
       
      I first installed AMD driver version 16.2.1
       
      Then installed AMD driver version 16.6.1 in order to play battlefield

      21/08/17 23:20
      First test run in battlefield 1

      21/08/17 23:40
      Battlefield 1 is flickering bad, this can maybe be solved with a new patch or driver.
      Other games I have tried is working perfect with crossfire on.


      Now what I would like to try is somehow force the r9 m290x driver to be installed and see if it will make it possible to run the latest AMD driver without getting a blackscreen.
       
      I have tried to edit the .inf file like you would do with nvidia but no luck.
      I have also tried to figure out how to edit the device id in the vbios, but I find it too complex.
    • By Klem
      Klem's_vbios_DELL_GTX880M_80.04.F5.00.07_UNLOCKED.rar
      For 8Gb card.
      1. Unlocked Nvidia core limit +135 MHz.
      2. Unlocked core voltage adjustments.
      3. Unlocked Power Limit.
      4. Unlocked Power adjustment by software (for example with Nvidia Inspector).
      5. Increased Power Limit and Power Target.
      6. Enabled some additional tweaks.
       
      If you liked my mod, you can buy me some beer:   https://www.buymeacoffee.com/ekushukovZ
    • By Bananoid
      Hello, guys!
      The situation is the following. I am a 3D artist and I work for a Ukrainian company. After the events in our country, most employees moved to safer cities, while the rest have to work remotely. I purchased a non-working Clevo p750dm-g from my hands. The reason for the inoperability is that the owner tried to flash the BIOS with coffee lake support, but something went wrong and he stopped showing the picture (black screen), but the laptop itself starts up, the fans spin, the keyboard lights up, the SSD heats up (too much). I tried flashing the bios using a USB programmer, but that didn't work. I would be very grateful if someone could help revive this car. It is imperative to return to the functional system at work.
    • By Noxco
      Hello to all can you help me change the graphics card?
      Alienware m17x r4
       i7 3610qm
      quadro k4100m
      display 120hz 3d
      bios a15
      trying to install 980m but not getting 5 or 8 beeps removed the battery and reset the bios. disabled legacy and secure boot in settings windows 10 gpt uefi
      help how to be?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.