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King of Interns

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About King of Interns

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  • Birthday 04/19/1986

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  1. Yes it will work! Beware however. Do not underestimate how much heat this puts out. +200mv is a huge increase in power and therefore heat! You will have to modify the cooling system significantly to use the chip for extended periods at this voltage and forget 100% load for extended periods. Also it isn't possible to use another VID. I tried them all. Only vid 4 works. I tried multiple other vids on 2 different 920xm's that ran at different voltages with no luck. Finally as svl7 states in the guide it is important to measure your chips voltage before modding. No chip is the same and the difference between chips can be big.
  2. How do I fix this man? Uninstalled both sys info and 3dmark11 and then downloading and reinstalling does not help! On the go from my iPod touch
  3. I tried that and still get this message at the end of the test. Plus the program tells me there is a newer version... which there is isn't No application is associated with the specified file for this operation (connection_to_3dmark_com_failed)
  4. I would like to see what my new score would be but I cannot get 3D mark 11 basic edition to work. Even the latest version tells me it is not the latest version and then will not connect to show me the score. I am loath to buy the software. What could be wrong here. I can't find any useful troubleshooting tips. SVL7 any ideas?
  5. Have you prepared your cooling? It gets hot! I have my entire CPU heat spreader and fan module littered with decent mini heatsinks and have added 2x 50cfm 80mmx80mm fans to blow directly onto those areas whenever I use it. On the go from my iPod touch
  6. That is a delicious score! How much extra voltage you on here? I am on +160mv and find 27x across all cores 100% stable for all games. 28x is nearly stable but not 100%. Anyway I am hot on your tail. I have the cooling now to keep everything cool. When I have time I will try to get VID 2 to ground to boost another +50m. If I am lucky I will then be running 29x/30/31/32. All I need then is a new GPU to catch up with you Perhaps m295X can accommodate me haha This laptop has so much life left in it!
  7. Not if the m15x is the primary machine. Don't write the little machine off yet I have the CPU at 3.7 - 4ghz on heavily modded air let alone water! This mod could yield pretty amazing results! Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
  8. It is a great CPU and thanks to SVL7 and his great overvolting guide; easy to OV too. Currently I run 3.7-4ghz on mine with so far no ill effect. You must improve the cooling drastically however before doing so though. The M15x cooling can handle quite well the OC SVL7 mentions above. You should be able to run 24x all day even in Prime 95 if you keep your vents clean and the laptop elevated so you maintain decent airflow. As for the mainboard you need not worry. At 25x I often do video encoding work sometimes with back to back projects taking 10 hours or more. Even with temperatures at 90C the CPU or laptop haven't skipped a beat. Very robust CPU indeed.
  9. Very interesting mod! Really look forward to see the results!
  10. Dell 680M GTX all the way. 780M really isn't made for the M15x. The gpu voltage circuits can barely cope with it at stock clocks. I know this because the stock voltage on the 7970M already pushes the circuits to their stable limits. Or perhaps better yet wait for new gen GPU's. Kepler (680/780M) and GCN (7970M/8970M) are old hat. In the very least when they are released a 680M will be dirt cheap.
  11. I think it is time you replaced that 460M GTX. Shop around for a 680M GTX
  12. Let's see. Their machines (top tier only M15x-M18x) are robust, very upgradeable and reliable. In my experience they can also take a punishing and still work fine year's later. EG: I used to do a lot of video encoding that pushed my 920xm to 95C at full load 3.2ghz across all cores for 14 hours at a time. Nothing failed, nothing throttled, videos turned out great. That was over a year ago and still going strong. My past Clevo...not such a happy story.
  13. 1.)Get a laptop cooler. 2.)Invert it. 3.)Put gel pads on it to elevate laptop even higher when placed upon it. 4.)Cut through the rear panel of the laptop to expose the heatsinks of both cpu and gpu. 5.)Place velco around the hole you cut. 6.)Buy 2x thermaltake mobile II fans mod them so they are attachable to the bottom using Velcro. You have to reverse the position of the fan speed controller to allow the fans to push air up instead of sucking air out. Voila nearly 100cfm of extra airflow and enough clearance to allow the fans to work properly. With my M15x I can run Prime 95 for hours at 24x (3,2ghz) across all 8 threads small ffts with max temp of 80C on hottest core. Ambient temp 20C. 7970M at 950/1450 at 1.05V hits again maximum 67C in so far both FC3 and Crysis 3 both at full settings 1080p. End of story. If you want to lower temperatures this is the easiest and most cost effective way of doing it.
  14. Thanks for writing up this thread SVL 7! I know it has been some time but hey I will carry out the mod very soon. Cheers for all the advice and help here! edit: tried +100mv with no success. +200mv tomorrow.
  15. Get the 7970M. It is far better! There are no issues with throttle anymore with this card. The only issue that remains now is to keep voltage under 1.1V. The mainboard cannot handle it and you either will not fully attain full clocks or if you do you won't game for long before the machine shuts off. Better yet stock clocks only requires 0.975V down from 1.05V. A huge power saving meaning a VERY cool card under load. If you want to push the card you can attain at least 950/1450mhz stable at 1.05V if your cooling can handle it. WIll need some mods. You will need the dell 210W,230W or 240W power supplies to power the system though. In order for the power supply to not be limited you must disable the center pin on the 240W adaptor. On the 210 and probably also 230W the PSU is not recognized by the M15x anyways so no need to disable the pin. Disabling the pin does not allow you to charge the battery but will allow you to pull as much power as the PSU is able to supply before it cuts out. Therefore either install a switch into the PSU cable between brick and computer so as to flick between modes or easier option keep your original PSU handy if you simply pull the pin out permanently. The 210W and 230W can't charge the battery anyway so the 150W original is needed to charge the battery. Hope this helps. koI
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