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EwinRacing Flash Series Gaming Chairs

Jahnsinn

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Everything posted by Jahnsinn

  1. couldn't bench much so far. quite busy at the moment, loads of work, don't know where to start first chiller is set on 12°C, that's just the point before condensation appears on tubes and quick couplings. gpu runs with full load taken at 35°C, cpu at 28°C average. unfortunately I don't have time to update my guide post. damn work, I need to find something I earn money whilst sleeping^^ weekend is near, maybe I get some more time there. cya l8er
  2. I've got the Asus RT-N66U for a couple of months now and I can't find anything negative on it. No wireless drops, no reboots had to be done. And the wireless is available through all my flat ( 150sqm, 7 rooms). Had a lot of routers in the past and I always lost connection after half of the flat.
  3. just made a quick benchmark with the new 12.11 beta driver, P6197 B-) custom clocks @ 950/1400@1.1V on all steps. Works just perfect cpu steps: 18x133mhz @ 65/62
  4. looks good. Are you able to get a picture taken from the side?
  5. what was the size of the monitor? I still get issues when connecting my 55" BEFORE I start a 3d application. After starting the app it's okay. So I guess yours was just fine whatever you've done with it.
  6. tried to flash my gpu yesterday, but surprisingly it doesn't work at all anymore. I went through the procedure of atiflash, was all successful and rebooted the system. back in windows I checked the clocks and they are still the same as before. So I thought there went something wrong with atiflash. So went back to dos and tried to flash again. But atiflash said, the vbios I try to flash is identical with the one on the card. Tried to flash some other vbioses, butthe clocks stay all the same O.o checksums all okay what I did since the last successful flash: - updated to catalyst 12.9 7900mod - installed updated version of msi afterburner with "xcl-command" to enable amd overdrive. uninstalled both but still the same. Can't get a different vbios flashed onto the card. The card just works fine, so actually no faulty card.
  7. sry mate for the late response. the cpu is a heatsink, originally made for cooling desktop GPU dies. eurocom is named as upgradeyourlaptop on ebay. AMD Radeon HD7970M (WimbledonXT) MXM 3.0b 2GB GDDR5 VGA Module - CrossFire Ready | eBay thanks to @mw86 and @svl7 for the quick reply to @frostie btw @mw86: I got a notifier you mentioned me and got redirected to Brians flickering issue O.o strange thing.
  8. I experienced flickering on my external tv screen whilst gaming, but not on the internal screen. weird thing.
  9. Are you sure it's the temps? How high do they get?
  10. Well, I'd just ask the Alienware customer support service. Quickest way to get one.
  11. Because I already have a laptop^^ a desktop is much more expensive and wouldn't be something special, actually I don't need the laptop as a "laptop" anymore. Got a asus transformer tablet with keyboard. So no reason to keep the heavy laptop handy. Also it'll be an eye catcher once all is propper placed.
  12. that's true, unfortunately but even by moderate OCing the cpu and gpu, I got drops due to high temps on the gpu. So now it's quite more stable and should get just a bit more performance. Maybe there's a little bird, telling me a mobo mod to get some more power on the mobo
  13. updated the pics. nearly all working now. need to figure out what's worng with the others. tomorrow I will add temperatures and benchmarks. Let's see if I can get higher clocks without throttling. But now it's time for a couple of beer
  14. http://downloads.dell.com/FOLDER00896545M/1/M14R2A09WIN64.exe that's the direct link. just click on it from time to time so you don't need to run through dell's homepage.
  15. update: http://forum.techinferno.com/alienware-m15x/2220-%5Bguide%5D-m15x-water-cooling.html unfortunately still not all pix working.
  16. Do you have more than one graphics card in your system? If not you have to type 0 instead of 1 !
  17. First of all, let me say I haven't finished yet. I'm still working on it and will update this thread from time to time due to much work at the moment. When I fitted my 940xm and the 7970m I got really mad of the heat and the fan noises even in idle mode. So I decided to get it all cooled with a silent, most important quiet, external water cooling system. I checked the internet and found evth I need to get it done. The most difficult thing was to find slim water blocks to cover the dies. I will list all the parts I used with article number and website if you're interested at the end of this post. First the overview. These parts are going to be used: Actually not much, so let's start. I start tubing at the inner hose socket of the reserator. This is the place where the pump is placed behind. You have to use a 10/8mm hose. By this, 10mm means the outside diameter of the hose, 8mm means the inside diameter. This is very important to know by everything you do on water cooling systems due to different fittings, barbs or reducers. Fit the hose and tighten it well with a spanner. Now you need a reducer to get on a 8/6mm hose. This is necessary to get in fitted to the chiller. At the other end you need to fit the 8/6mm hose. After this is done the 8/6mm hose leads into the chiller. A chiller pushs down your temps to a predefined value set by you, the minimum you can get theoretically is +3°C. Basically you can say it works like a refrigerator. This is very helpfully when you start gaming or other intense work on the laptop to keep the temps low. Here are some pics of it. To get the hose fitted the first custom made had to be done. Maybe I didn't know how it actually works, but I had no clue how else to do it without a modification... As you can see on the picture, the 1/4" adapter didn't fit to the chiller's nozzle. I really don't know what's the original idea by the developers. So the first adjustment had to be made. Cut the end of the nozzle as you can see on the pic. When this was done I noticed really pour casting quality inside the nozzle. This would massively reduce your flow speed. So I used a drill to get it out. Finally I got an outside diameter of 13mm at the nozzle. The adapter has 12mm inside diameter So just perfect to cut a M14 thread to both parts. Unfortunately I couldn't get closer due to the layout of the die. two washers solve this problem to get it proper tightened. To get it proper sealed I used teflon tape. Just the best way to get something sealed. Don't do it without any sealing! Use some Vaseline before you stick in the nozzles. Do the same with second side of course. At the end it'll look like that. Let's get to the CPU water block. I purchased the Thermaltake CL-W0052 Tide Water, originally made for desktop PCs to cool down the graphics card, on ebay to get all the stuff I'll need to do it. I chose that one because the water block has just a height of 8mm. Also all the hoses and clamps will be helpful. First drain the coolant. Then I opened the chassis and robbed all hoses and clamps. You'll need them in a couple of minutes. They're all bonded quite well, so just cut them at the ends. I also cut and removed the hoses of the water block itself, just to make sure everything is okay. I didn't want to get upset when I filled the system with water. So I cut them and removed the old adhesive. I then removed the original cpu heatsink and compared the die with the water block The water block as it was out from the box was just a touch too small to fit correctly onto the die. So I just removed the tape around the block. Now it was ready to get fitted. All I needed to do was loosing the existing bolts on the water block and tightened it with M2.5x20 hex nut bolts into the existing holes. At the end it looks like that. By the way, the mosfet heatsinks came with the tide water vga cooler. I also fitted the black hoses as they were, just without the glew and it still seals perfectly. To get the hoses guided out of the laptop you need to remove your fan control at the back of your laptop. When you're doing this, be careful not to touch the chassis as I did with whatever you use. I used the dremel and didn't see it for a while. What a shame! Nevermind, so let's get over to the gpu side. I bought a very tiny water block with just 15x15x7mm dimensions to not to exceed the height. So may be later I will be able to fit the backplate cover again. The water blocks would actually fit on the die, perfectly. But due to the layout of the gpu die the block just fits in diagonal postion. So useless for me. To get the water block in the right direction I unsoldered the copper plate of the original heatsink. That one has got the right dimensions to get this solved. Clean the copper plate from the old tin on top by using the Dremel or sandpaper. At the end that's the way it should work. Just to mention, also the holder came with Thermaltake tide water cooler. The bolts I bought seperatly on ebay. They are M1.6x20 but too long, so I cut them down to 15mm. Now they fit into the existing holes and push down the block properly Use now the -->small<-- black hoses robbed from Thermaltake chassis. These are the inside hoses, they're smaller. You need to use some adhesive because the clamps coming with the hoses are just a way too big and don't keep it tight to nozzle. Now just add some thermal paste between copper plate and die, and copper plate and water block. Tighten it all down. Finally it looks like that. [ATTACH=CONFIG]5105[/ATTACH] hoses leaded through the fan grill, gpu side. I mention again, just temporarily cause I'm still waiting for parts. in progress... [ATTACH=CONFIG]5107[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]5106[/ATTACH] cpu side [ATTACH=CONFIG]5108[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5109[/ATTACH] The hose laying is actually just in common sense. Nothing particular I should mention. Reserator -> 10/8mm hose -> 10/8mm to 8/6mm reducer -> 1/4" compression fitting -> 1/4" adapter for chiller -> chiller nozzle -> chiller -> nozzle, adapter, fitting -> 8/6mm hose -> Y-splitter first end hose -> 8/6mm hose -> quick coupling -> black hose (termaltake tide water) -> cpu block inlet-> cpu outlet -> black hose -> quick coupling -> 8/6mm -> Y-splitter second end hose -> 8/6mm hose -> 6mm barb -> small black hose (thermaltake tide water) -> gpu block inlet -> gpu outlet -> small black hose -> 6mm barb -> 8/6mm hose -> Y-splitter | Y-splitter -> 8/6mm hose -> 10/8 to 8/6mm reducer -> reserator update in progress...
  18. is there any compatibility mode support in win8?
  19. That's why it's called "blind flash" your screen is black, so you need to do it with a black screen. boot from your usb drive and type in the ati commands. is that really your fourth post about the same issue? O.o
  20. as mw86 said, do a blind flash and it should work again.
  21. @x2pinpoint: to enable unofficial overclocking, close MSI afterburner, go to your MSI afterburner install path and open MSIAfterburner.cfg. Scroll down to the end of the file. There you will find the following: [ATIADLHAL] UnofficialOverclockingEULA = UnofficialOverclockingMode = 0 AccessibilityCheckingPeriod = 0 change it to the following: [ATIADLHAL] UnofficialOverclockingEULA = 1 UnofficialOverclockingMode = 1 AccessibilityCheckingPeriod = 0 start afterburner again, agree the popup and you'll be able to set clocks. Have fun!
  22. just tried. server refuses connection. Is it only up during playing?
  23. ahh, that's why you were sticking your gun in my arse
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