luoxia Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 This post is reproduced from http://www.cbber.com/thread-50989-1-1.html In the place of the original HDD I placed an traditional fan with radiator and air-exhaust towards the side, an mSATA drive, welded an additional 3 heat-pipes to CPU & GPU plus a custom cooling block and heat-pipe for the PCH. The original fan on the left is now responsible for CPU, GPU & PCH and connected with 5 heat-pipes. The additional one on the right is only connected with two heatpipes and supports the CPU & GPU, so using a mouse on the right side won't feel any hotter. CLEVO let's the system reach 60c before the fans are turned on and let it cool down to about 50c until it is turned off again. This approach reduces dust and increased the lifetime of the fan, but is not inappropriate for high speed quad-core setups. It is impossible for me to control the fan speed via BIOS or EC, so I tapped into the 5v line of the original HDD connector and let temperature diodes control the fan speed. An additional temperature-diode is at the PCH heat-pipe and controls the old fan below 60c (I have tapped into a 3.3v line)and an other diode prevents current back-flow once the original 5v EC controlled fan kicks in. So we now have two 5v sources plus one 3.3v and the original cooling method is also functional. Here the stock version with just a single fan & heat-pipe (a pic from the net) : <ignore_js_op> </ignore_js_op> And here the modded version with dual-fan & heat pipes : <ignore_js_op> </ignore_js_op> <ignore_js_op> </ignore_js_op> <ignore_js_op> </ignore_js_op> Modded bottom plate with 4 depressions to optimize the air intake from the right side (above the CPU): <ignore_js_op> </ignore_js_op> With bottom cover assembled. Before the passive cooling of the PCH used too overheat and release all the heat into the body: <ignore_js_op> </ignore_js_op> Temperature-dependent resistors to regulate the fan speed according to GPU & CPU temps: <ignore_js_op> </ignore_js_op> Tapped into the original 5v fan connector and added a diode to prevent current back-flow. An additional temperature-diode at the PCH heat-pipe automatically controls the fan-speed: <ignore_js_op> </ignore_js_op> Homemade liquid metal. Cheaper than the cheapest stock thermal paste. It has a melting point of 50c. Excess liquid was safely removed towards the sides until it stabilized: <ignore_js_op></ignore_js_op> 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founder Michael Posted May 2, 2013 Founder Share Posted May 2, 2013 so why are we allowing chinese language on the forum ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founder StamatisX Posted May 2, 2013 Founder Share Posted May 2, 2013 My "Mandarin" is not that great either but I appreciate the pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 so why are we allowing chinese language on the forum ? Because it's a cool mod, will translate it to english later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator angerthosenear Posted May 2, 2013 Moderator Share Posted May 2, 2013 That is a pretty awesome cooling mod. Too bad I can't do something like that for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founder Brian Posted May 2, 2013 Founder Share Posted May 2, 2013 Nice mod, looking forward to a translation of it.Sent from my GT-N7000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Ok, translated it...hope it makes some sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luoxia Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 Ok, translated it...hope it makes some sense. Ok, thank you very much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clyde Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Excellent mod (idea with mSATA instead of HDD). If I can make a suggestion for future modders. What counts is not only the number and thickness of the heatpipes but also their length (see GPU1 and GPU2 temperature in P370EM). IMO it is better to divide the layout into two separate and connect (with short heatpipes) the new radiator to the CPU plate and the existing allocated exclusively to the GPU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 They guys who made the Alienware Watercooling Mod said that connecting all radiator with each other is a good idea to distribute heat and utilize them to their maximum capacity. Calibre41 also made an interesting statement, he said that reducing the size of the heatpipe on the radiator side increases the airflow between the fins and he went on to say that that had a stronger impact on cooling than bigger heatpipes...All interesting...so i guess the ideal mod would have:- shorter heatpipes - heatpipes wider on CPU/GPU side, narrower on radiator side- all radiators connected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HTWingNut Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Damn! Nice mod. That's crazy. Took my idea of using an msata and placing a fan there except that I never planned on a whole new heatsink. I just wanted to blow over the CPU.Sent from my YP-G70 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odin2free Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 This is something that my brother will deffinitly need to do..The Msata is amazing idea...clears up alot of space in order to do this...Have you pushed the limits on that vengeance memory? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaybee83 Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 wow, this mod is just waaaay out there! amazing what kinda stuff the guys around here are up to! im slowly getting the feeling that ive been missing out on NBR kudos to you, luoxia! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pau1ow Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Crazy mod I have to admit, well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spectroplasm Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 wow! I wish something like this would exist for P170EM laptops.I'd like to push my GFX a little further but am too chicken to do it without proper cooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tristan444 Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 That's a great mod!And yeah, the mSata is a great idea. That makes me think that I've always asked myself why there weren't any caddies with a fan to blow out the air, just like the caddies for HDD that replaces the optical drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ha1o2surfer Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 I think we actually need to work on airflow, the pipes are more than enough to keep the temps down if air is blowing over the CPU block. I have a 120MM fan blowing directly over the middle of the laptop with the cover off and it brings temps down to the mid 70s for CPU and mid 50's for GPU under full GPU+CPU load with stock pipes (CPU loading up to 60watts overclocked) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vladmire Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 it would be nice if there is a full translation on how the owner did it... im thinking of doing this with my OOW clevo too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkSunOne Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 This looks freaking awesome, i will also try this with my laptop ^-^ Let's see what my baby becomes to Will post it here if this idea success Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheReciever Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Has this ever been replicated? I have been watching this thread for quite some time and it seems no one has officially replicated it. I plan to do something similar to my own y510p. The problem seems to be that the heatpipe will simply kink at the stress point and especially so if you have a flat heatsink. I have read that cutting it open and filling it with sand can allow for it to be molded without kinking the copper but no besides this has done something like that.In the mean time I have ordered a couple replacement heatsinks to test and learn, looking forward to adding some copper heatpipes to my existing systemEDIT: apologize in advance for the thread necro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arise Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 You can't crack it open and fill it with sand because you will lose the liquid/gas inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishtenos Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 That mod is insane... wonder how cool that thing runs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElBurroGrande Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Hey guys,i thought about modding my W110ER in a similiar way, but only with additional heatpipes to the original radiator fan, now my question...what do you think is the best way to do this? I wanted to take some Artic Silver Paste to add them to the radator but now after i read that thread....im not so sure anymore^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MalMiMix Posted May 17 Share Posted May 17 Does anyone have a download for the Prema bios for the W110ER? I cant seem to find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSin Posted June 22 Share Posted June 22 Maybe you'll find something useful here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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