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Still, if your system doesn't have warranty then setting those details is mostly a cosmetic thing

When it powers on it displays a message about machine not state, and Product information not valid, and it waits for ENTER to be pressed. Thankfully, other functionality does not seem to be affected. I tried the WIN+B option, but it does not begin to beep, or do anything else other that the fan spinning fast and the CAPS LOCK led blinking; I left it for about 7 minutes in this state. I have attached the start-up messages

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When it powers on it displays a message about machine not state, and Product information not valid, and it waits for ENTER to be pressed. Thankfully, other functionality does not seem to be affected. I tried the WIN+B option, but it does not begin to beep, or do anything else other that the fan spinning fast and the CAPS LOCK led blinking; I left it for about 7 minutes in this state. I have attached the start-up messages

Right. SO it's more than cosmetic then. Please follow the directions carefully given in my previous post. I no longer have a 2570P to be able to try them myself so that's the best I found by googling around/

Sorry if it has been posted and answered - is it possible to automate setting endpoint and compaction via startup.bat?

After compaction, a pci.bat is generated and automatically added as a call in your startup.bat. Next time you boot and choose the 'automated startup via startup.bat' option, it will replay the same settings as during your last PCI compaction. There are some other menu options that don't get added automatically as they give the option to see how the system responds first. They appear in the last command buffer in the bottom left corner. You hit F3 to add those to the startup.bat if there is a satisfactory outcome.

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I managed to commit it, the key combination was WIN+UP+DOWN and the power button, HOLDING IT FOR at least 2 seconds ( I was not holding it in my first attempts), then follow the instructions, with wndmifit, and then setting MPM back on. Thank you, Tech Inferno Fan!

PS : Now I wish to disable the ME, but I cannot modify it, because it is not uncommitted anymore, and the UUID is not FFFF.... anyway, another experience, faster startup

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Right. SO it's more than cosmetic then. Please follow the directions carefully given in my previous post. I no longer have a 2570P to be able to try them myself so that's the best I found by googling around/

After compaction, a pci.bat is generated and automatically added as a call in your startup.bat. Next time you boot and choose the 'automated startup via startup.bat' option, it will replay the same settings as during your last PCI compaction. There are some other menu options that don't get added automatically as they give the option to see how the system responds first. They appear in the last command buffer in the bottom left corner. You hit F3 to add those to the startup.bat if there is a satisfactory outcome.

Thanks!

This is actually more helpful than just a flat-out code. Now i can play around my own settings.

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Thanks!

This is actually more helpful than just a flat-out code. Now i can play around my own settings.

Yes, the eGPU Setup 1.30 software has a lot of flexibility to customize the startup.bat to your requirements. I'd suggest using the Startup.bat-Edit menuitem to edit it if need to move things around. That screen will give a lot more info in individual commands in that file. Admit having been tempted to rename the software eGPU OS since it's pretty much a standalone eGPU configuring OS :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

post-28261-14494998395736_thumb.jpggetting angry, this is the second attempt, after writing a whole article IE crashed and lost all the writing :( EDIT: Third

back: I want to tell about 2 things, one I have tried and other I would like to ask about. I repeat, I have the 8570p and not the 2570p model, but as I cannot find a dedicated thread and community such as this, and I think the differences are unsignificant

and mostly about layout, I will still post here.

One: I tried to replace the keyboard with a backlit one, from 8570w (it's cousin, the "professional" branded elitebook with the "professional" gamma GPU's ( and the cooling system of a smartphone ) ). Firstly, the pinout matched, but the contacts not.

As I read, the keyboard is only a connector matrix, with the controller on the motherboard. So, I tried to match the pinout. Then I thought about dissassemblying them and take the ribbon with the connector "ribbon" (I am sorry, I barely know the terms in my language) and to put them into the backlit keyboard enclosure. So I took them apart, but the ribbon and the other enclosure were impossible to match, and the enclosure (bottom metalic plate) was needed to hold the special keys that have transparent letters, that let white characters glow. So, with this conclusion, I am posting the pictures, and let it be, as I don't know how to make the old ribbon stay attached to the new keys that are not opaque, as the "ribbon" with leds

can easily be attached to any other keyboard, but as log as it's layout does not allow the light to come through, it's pointless.

Two: I have noticed screen flickering, old CRT style (60, 75 Hz style), firstly on videocamera, then it began to tire me. First I tried to change the refresh rate, and found a tool to do it, called Custom Resolution Utility, by ToastyX. After some weeks of thweaking the setting, searching for the screen technical documentation, I found by many trials and errors a certain refresh frequency that was the most non tireding for me. But still flickering. And I wondered why, and found out about the "new WLED backlit system" which uses a PWM to dim the display, meaning it emits pulses when in non full brightness, eg at 60% the leds are lit 60% and turned off 40% of a period. And this period can be from 1/70 of a second, to 1/400 (100 Hertz of led strobe, with sharp passings. I would say these guys are very stupid or did a very stupid thing, but I am afraid it is more than that. back ) So, on the forums there seem to be 2 options, as I can tell: one to increase the frequency to about 700Hz - 1KHz, to make it unperceptible, or to use direct current, and this is where I got lost, as do not know electronics : one is to use a driver circuit (ICC or something) other said to have cutted the brightness control pin, and use a resistor to decrease the voltage (or some diodes to decrease the current, I am sorry, it surpasses me). But the thing is that I would like it not to flicker, the led backlighting to be continuous, so this is why I am posting here, as this problem affects almost ALL LED LCDs ( some don't seem to have this problem, but I do not know why, as the technology behind it is damaging by it's nature). Please forgive my ramblings, I tried to be on topic, x570p lounge, more to the technical part

PS: I am sorry about the keyboard pictures, as they are beyond accepted resolution, and momentary I do not have the editing software available. Waiting for any response, thank you

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Hi guys,

Just want to share some recent experiences I had with my 2570p and EXP GDC V6.

I recently bought a cheap Asus GTS 450 with GF116 core (lucky me) and so I decided to test installing Windows 8.1 in UEFI mode and I can confirm what was said earlier. In this mode there is no need for setup 1.30 but when I replaced the GTS 450 with my GTX 750Ti I had to make the DSDT override to make it work but that was it, so no need to use setup 1.30 either. Anyway setup 1.3 is still very useful for battery tweaks and other systems.

Another thing I noticed is that I was able to install my modded 344.11 verde drivers without having to disable driver signing or enable test mode (I think I had to do it in the past).

I hope this findings are useful and help someone save time.

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Hi guys I need some help with newbie questions.

1) Can I upgrade a 2560p with a 2570P motherboard and its matching ivy processor? I mean are both motherboard physically identical?

2) If I upgrade a 2570p with an i7-3632QM (35W) I consider the heat should not be an issue; right?

3) If I upgrade a 2570p with an i7-3630QM (45W) do I have to replace the heat-sink? is any company selling already modded ones?

4) Is there any way I can upgrade a 2560p with an i7-3632QM? I understand the 2560p handles ivy but it needs a special bios; anyway to install a 2570p bios into a 2560p?

5) Can I instal an mSata Samsumg EVO SSD disk on the WWLAN port?

Thanks for your time guys; this thread is awesome.

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1) Can I upgrade a 2560p with a 2570P motherboard and its matching ivy processor? I mean are both motherboard physically identical?

As far as I can tell, a 2570P systemboard has same size and layout to a 2560P systemboard. They should be interchangeable. I say should because I've never fit one to be 100% sure. They can be purchased on Aliexpress for a good price. Just be careful sometimes those vendors sell slightly faulty or beta boards.

2) If I upgrade a 2570p with an i7-3632QM (35W) I consider the heat should not be an issue; right?

3) If I upgrade a 2570p with an i7-3630QM (45W) do I have to replace the heat-sink? is any company selling already modded ones?

CPU upgrades, how to limit a 45W CPU to run at ~35W temps and heatsink mods are linked off the opening post of this thread.

4) Is there any way I can upgrade a 2560p with an i7-3632QM? I understand the 2560p handles ivy but it needs a special bios; anyway to install a 2570p bios into a 2560p?

2560P is a Series-6 system that can only accomodate a 2nd generation processor. 2570P is a Series-7 system that can accomodate either a 2nd or 3rd generation processor.

5) Can I instal an mSata Samsumg EVO SSD disk on the WWLAN port?

No. The WLAN port is wired for PCIe, not SATA. There is no mSATA port on 2560P or 2570P. Best way of doing a SSD+HDD arrangement is to swap out the optical drive for a caddy with your HDD and place SSD in the primary drive bay. If you were exceptionally crafty you could tap the eSATA port internally to host a mSATA SSD.

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Hi Nando4

Thanks for your helpful answer.

I never used ThrottleStop before I'm trying to throttle down an i7-3630QM to 35W levels

can you provide a bullet point list of steps for doing this with ThrottleStop?

It seems the multiplier should be set to x32 right?

is the multiplier the only variable I have to trim?

do I also have to touch the VID?

BTW when the change is made where is it saved? I do not think I have to do the change every time I power up the PC.

Thanks for your help.

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Hi Nando4

Thanks for your helpful answer.

I never used ThrottleStop before I'm trying to throttle down an i7-3630QM to 35W levels

can you provide a bullet point list of steps for doing this with ThrottleStop?

It seems the multiplier should be set to x32 right?

is the multiplier the only variable I have to trim?

do I also have to touch the VID?

BTW when the change is made where is it saved? I do not think I have to do the change every time I power up the PC.

Thanks for your help.

i7-3630QM has x32 max 4-core multi. i7-3632QM has a x29 max 4-core multi. You'd monitor the TDP/temps and adjust down the highest multi to whatever your system can handle. Can see a comparison of their TDP at TS-bench load at http://forum.techinferno.com/throttlestop-realtemp-discussion/6958-haswell-step-backwards-ivy-bridge-i-have-some-shocking-tdp-results.html#post95181 .

You can Throttlestop is very intuitive to use. Yes, you can save and apply your settings on every boot. Specific Throttlestop questions are best directed at http://forum.techinferno.com/throttlestop-realtemp-discussion/23-throttlestop-guide.html#post39 .

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I just sold off my 2570p :((

sold it for about 10% in return... I got a ThinkPad T430 with everything except webcam and fingerprint..

3320m / 8+4GB ddr3 1600 / 500gb 7200rpm, NO SSD TO INCREASE BATTERY LIFE / 9-cell 98wh battery locked at 87% max charge. It works for about 7.8 hours. stable.

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Hello to all. New here and just bought an almost new 2570p with 16gb and i5. Managed to swap the i5 with a quad 35watt cpu. : ) of course excited....and now extremely concerned - ... for everyone who is using a quad cpu---> what AC wattage power supply do you use? (I used the 65 watt charger and its heating up ..wayyyy high)

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Hello to all. New here and just bought an almost new 2570p with 16gb and i5. Managed to swap the i5 with a quad 35watt cpu. : ) of course excited....and now extremely concerned - ... for everyone who is using a quad cpu---> what AC wattage power supply do you use? (I used the 65 watt charger and its heating up ..wayyyy high)

Welcome to the club! I have a 3632QM, and typically use a 65W charger. Sometimes I use my 90w when I travel, the only difference is that the battery charges a little faster. This was discussed about a year ago, and IIRC the consensus was 65W is fine for even the 45W cpus.

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Welcome to the club! I have a 3632QM, and typically use a 65W charger. Sometimes I use my 90w when I travel, the only difference is that the battery charges a little faster. This was discussed about a year ago, and IIRC the consensus was 65W is fine for even the 45W cpus.

Thanks a lot... Sigh! : )

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Good to have you on board! For the information of everybody, there's a 3840QM being sold for $249!

Limited supply only. Check the link out here.

It is a QS though, so may be not as reliable as OEM new.

On another note, I recently upgraded my 2570p to a i7-3630qm (was running the stock i5-3320m previously) and it's been working great. Only issue is that it seems to be running a bit hot. Idle temps are 55C and it often jumps up to 70C when doing multimedia applications like watching youtube videos. Gaming it goes up to 80-85C sometimes (although I haven't had that much time to play with it yet). Are these temperatures normal? They seem a bit high to me, I used to get 50C idle and 60C ish for multimedia with the i5-3320m. Also, would adding a copper shim help reduce the temperatures?

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I'm referencing the fact that this eBay price is still WAY cheaper than the same 3840QM(QCF1) sold in Aliexpress.

The seller made it clear that though the price matches that of a 3740QM QCF3 in Aliexpress, it's in fact a 3840QM QCF1. Probably a clearance sale of some sort.

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I suppose that few people tried Intel 7260 AC in their 2570p. Did anyone had been able to activate Bluetooth?

I have successfully swapped and launched 7260 AC with my previous 6205 N. It was taken from Gigabyte GA-H97N-WIFI mITX deskop motherboard which was marketted as having WiFi-AC/Bluetooth combo, but after unplugging internal BT card, I lost BT functionality. There is not a single Bluetooth device showing in device manager in Windows 8.1. Is this normal? I've read somewhere, that Bluetooth needs USB2.0 wiring in PCI-E slot. Is that correct? Is this a reason for Bluetooth part not working in 7260-AC?

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Ive now been using this little machine for a month and i must say that its super awesome. I've been using it as a second machine next to my m6600 and as a traveling companion its very nice. Regardless of "bulkiness" compared to its competition I dont have any issues with it - seeing as I was lugging my m6600 around for a year and a half this seems like seems like feather while packing quite a punch.

I did get around and test yoga2 and few of those netbooks/ultrabooks and its performance and serviceability let me down, not to mention build quality. Once you try proper business class notebooks nothing else is good enough i guess. I did test MBA 13" and i really dont see what all the fuss about is about super thin notebooks and when i pop up all the programs i use it got quite hot and not really lap friendly.

I know i wont thinker around notebooks everyday, but seeing how my first notebook lasted me 8 years (nc8430) and i got used to easy cleaning, disk swapping anything harder to open and maintain is a dumb investment for me.

So as I'm writing all this down I'm more and more thinking to keep both notebooks. M6600 at home as powerhouse and this little gem as my travelling companion.

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I suppose that few people tried Intel 7260 AC in their 2570p. Did anyone had been able to activate Bluetooth?

I have successfully swapped and launched 7260 AC with my previous 6205 N. It was taken from Gigabyte GA-H97N-WIFI mITX deskop motherboard which was marketted as having WiFi-AC/Bluetooth combo, but after unplugging internal BT card, I lost BT functionality. There is not a single Bluetooth device showing in device manager in Windows 8.1. Is this normal? I've read somewhere, that Bluetooth needs USB2.0 wiring in PCI-E slot. Is that correct? Is this a reason for Bluetooth part not working in 7260-AC?

I have a 7260 AC in my laptop, and no bluetooth shows up because the USB lines aren't wired. In the wifi slot on the 2570p, the lines are disabled msata instead of usb. No idea why the cards are designed with the BT side and wifi not on the PCI-e side, probably because pci can only support one device on the 1x lane. Most other combo cards from other companies function in the same way. USB devices are different, lots of combo devices have a built-in hub with everything wired to that.

All of my computers/laptops have a 7260 ac in them (because I put them there). In my NUC and an Acer laptop, both the BT and Wifi sides show. In my Shuttle PC and 2570p, only the wifi side shows.

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I thought so, thank you for your answer @phillofoc.

I should mention, that I didn't notice any change in power consumption. It can be as little as 100-200mW between 6205 and 7260, but I cannot measure it properly because usage varies. My system with Crucial MX100 256GB SSD and i5-3320M idles at ~5,5W without ASPM optimizations at 30% screen brightness either with 6205 or 7260.

Another thing I noticed: turning wireless off by switch under the screen makes light go out instead of turning orange as it did with 6205. Strange, but I think I can live with that :)

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