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alyosa2001

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About alyosa2001

  • Birthday 12/05/1982

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  1. getting angry, this is the second attempt, after writing a whole article IE crashed and lost all the writing EDIT: Third back: I want to tell about 2 things, one I have tried and other I would like to ask about. I repeat, I have the 8570p and not the 2570p model, but as I cannot find a dedicated thread and community such as this, and I think the differences are unsignificant and mostly about layout, I will still post here. One: I tried to replace the keyboard with a backlit one, from 8570w (it's cousin, the "professional" branded elitebook with the "professional" gamma GPU's ( and the cooling system of a smartphone ) ). Firstly, the pinout matched, but the contacts not. As I read, the keyboard is only a connector matrix, with the controller on the motherboard. So, I tried to match the pinout. Then I thought about dissassemblying them and take the ribbon with the connector "ribbon" (I am sorry, I barely know the terms in my language) and to put them into the backlit keyboard enclosure. So I took them apart, but the ribbon and the other enclosure were impossible to match, and the enclosure (bottom metalic plate) was needed to hold the special keys that have transparent letters, that let white characters glow. So, with this conclusion, I am posting the pictures, and let it be, as I don't know how to make the old ribbon stay attached to the new keys that are not opaque, as the "ribbon" with leds can easily be attached to any other keyboard, but as log as it's layout does not allow the light to come through, it's pointless. Two: I have noticed screen flickering, old CRT style (60, 75 Hz style), firstly on videocamera, then it began to tire me. First I tried to change the refresh rate, and found a tool to do it, called Custom Resolution Utility, by ToastyX. After some weeks of thweaking the setting, searching for the screen technical documentation, I found by many trials and errors a certain refresh frequency that was the most non tireding for me. But still flickering. And I wondered why, and found out about the "new WLED backlit system" which uses a PWM to dim the display, meaning it emits pulses when in non full brightness, eg at 60% the leds are lit 60% and turned off 40% of a period. And this period can be from 1/70 of a second, to 1/400 (100 Hertz of led strobe, with sharp passings. I would say these guys are very stupid or did a very stupid thing, but I am afraid it is more than that. back ) So, on the forums there seem to be 2 options, as I can tell: one to increase the frequency to about 700Hz - 1KHz, to make it unperceptible, or to use direct current, and this is where I got lost, as do not know electronics : one is to use a driver circuit (ICC or something) other said to have cutted the brightness control pin, and use a resistor to decrease the voltage (or some diodes to decrease the current, I am sorry, it surpasses me). But the thing is that I would like it not to flicker, the led backlighting to be continuous, so this is why I am posting here, as this problem affects almost ALL LED LCDs ( some don't seem to have this problem, but I do not know why, as the technology behind it is damaging by it's nature). Please forgive my ramblings, I tried to be on topic, x570p lounge, more to the technical part PS: I am sorry about the keyboard pictures, as they are beyond accepted resolution, and momentary I do not have the editing software available. Waiting for any response, thank you
  2. I managed to commit it, the key combination was WIN+UP+DOWN and the power button, HOLDING IT FOR at least 2 seconds ( I was not holding it in my first attempts), then follow the instructions, with wndmifit, and then setting MPM back on. Thank you, Tech Inferno Fan! PS : Now I wish to disable the ME, but I cannot modify it, because it is not uncommitted anymore, and the UUID is not FFFF.... anyway, another experience, faster startup
  3. When it powers on it displays a message about machine not state, and Product information not valid, and it waits for ENTER to be pressed. Thankfully, other functionality does not seem to be affected. I tried the WIN+B option, but it does not begin to beep, or do anything else other that the fan spinning fast and the CAPS LOCK led blinking; I left it for about 7 minutes in this state. I have attached the start-up messages
  4. I cannot do that, nothing happened when I turned off the computer, insert the USB FAT32 formatted stick with SMC.bin, held the three buttons and pressed the power button. It just booted as normal to the USB. Since the MPM is locked, wndmifit does say success message, but it does not write the information. When started, it gives this message . I do not know how to do that. As for the BIOS dump, I have tried to read the instructions before to test the new BIOS, but I was overwhelmed... And I would not try it on my system, as it has no warranty. So, any help on how to unlock MPM? Thank you anyway foe all the help and involvement so far!
  5. I have a question, too. I have replaced the motherboard with a new one, and the new one does not have the serials and other ID's written to it. Can anyone guide me or point me to a direction about this, how to write those ID's to the motherboard? I have tried many versions of HP DMI TATOO, without success
  6. Just asking, because I do not know how to make a bios dump, any changes regarding the whitelisting in the new version?
  7. Thank you for reply. It was actually 2760QM, I mistook it. The reason why I bought the new one was just this, the 32W TDP. To be more specific, I added 2 pictures, both taken now. One shows the current state of the cooling system, the other the temps after one hour of prime95. They get as far as 90 degrees, with Package Power Limits set to 26W, and multiplier set to 26T, therefore clocking to maximum 2,4GHz, from it's possible 2,9. I would add I took the temps with an external thermometer directly to the heatpipe and it was showing 55 degrees Celsius, while internal sensor was showing about 80. And one more thing: neither the probook mb, this one, and neither one of the two processors ever throttled, even with stock cooling and prime on. Someone suggested the internal reading could be wrong, but I had 2 different processors and mainboards, and all showed similar results. I would like of course, to use it for prolongued at full 2,9 speed, but these temps at only 2,4 kind of worries me, that is why I ask your opinion about it, why do you think the temps are shown so high. And the second question would be about the new backlit keyboard, if anyone can help me adapt it.
  8. Hi, I would like to ask some advices, I do not have a 2570p, but a 8570p, in a former Probook 6560b chassis. As I like to tweak it, too, I did not find any other thread regarding it, so I will post here, as I think they are very similar in some ways. Please excuse me if this is not a good place to post, and do let me know. Now, about it. First it was a Probook 6560b, with i5 dual core. I upgraded to 2720QM, to find very big temps, over 90 degrees till 100 in prime, at 3,4GHz, no throttling at all. After discussion to HP support ( I believe by now you have an idea of their kind of way regarding these issues) I began to search for better cooling, mainly adding copper plates over heatsink, cutting a hole in the back cover and adding a big aluminum plate at the bottom. I will show the photos from it's original state. Now, only the chasis remained from original computer, the mainboard is a Elitebook 8570p, ODD, eGPU expresscard, 3632qm with added holes in the case and an extra 6 cm thick cooler powered by 5V from the regular fan, and the processor limited to 2,6GHz with Thottlestop, because of the fan noise. I saw somebody did a tweak on the fan, by adding some diodes; is this for the noise, or did I misunderstood, and if so, could you explain more details to me? Also, now I have a Elitebook 8570w backlit keyboard, that fits as size, and as the connectors position to the mainboard. For the illumination I saw hot to power it from 3,5V with an on off swich; however, the contact of the keyboard do not match, and therefore, the keys are wrong, only few work when pressed, and are not what they sould be, and shift or control seems to be always pressed; can anyone help me with this, is there a way, if I could change the order of some pins, to make it work? If so, how can it be done, how to know the correct layout? I am attaching the old cooling mod pictures, and please again excuse me if I posted on a wrong place Thank you
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