Andrew479

It's not quite an easy and cheap exercise - $16 for the chip, and risking the mobo as well. Thanks. I returned the 2570p with locked BIOS. It seems it's just not worth the effort for the money saved. Probably the best idea would be to use really good TIM like kryonaut or going altogether with liquid metal. For LM though, the copper coldplate should be nickel plated first, as LM will eat through copper in time. Good news is, only few microns of nickel layer is needed. I'd try it on my own, but this covid situation left me with no lab equipment in my second flat. But Kryonaut should definitely improve things considerably. Also drill 8mm holes below the vent area to increase airflow. By the way, is there a guide how to install coreboot and seabios on 2570p ?

Check frequency. 3840QM runs at 3.3-3.4GHz at 35W package power. Ideally use throttlestop for this.

Hi, haven't been here for a while, thinking the folks have moved on to newer models, and wow, modded bios? Nice! Anyways, I managed to get another 2570p, but with set bios password which is unknown. Since HP no longer does the smc.bin recovery, is there a way how to clear the password by other means? Edit: I can't seem to find the bios file outlined in the above post. Was it removed?

No it must have been a different laptop. I reported this to HP in 2014, after 2 months the official reply is "just use the laptop on max brightness"- I reported this to Intel and this caused quite a stir on their forums - no resolution, only "we're working on it". I had 4 different 2570p since then and all suffer from it - the PWM is set to 300Hz, I verified this with CCD camcorder and photodiode. And since 2014 I have been trying to fix it, because the laptop is unusable without a fix. Other than software fixes, which needed newest .NET Framework (3GB package of libs for 60kB program) and only worked in one OS, I've been looking into adding a capacitor on the PWM lines to make it as least a bit more bearable. So if someone presented a fix like above, of course I'm interested to try it. Just lack the knowledge to pull it off alone.

Thanks for the tips. Low PWM has been a show stopper for me since I got 2570p many years ago, my eyes just couldn't bear it, and downgraded to 2560p for daily use. Would it be possible to share step-by-step how to get 2000Hz PWM on a stock LTN125AT02 ? I can live with 768p, but not with 300Hz flashing all the time. Thanks!

Hey, anyone actually tried the Ivy Bridge retrofit on 2560p? Does it work?

Hi, one of my laptops went up in smoke some time ago. After disassembly found several components burned and now are impossible to identify. Could anyone with the same or similar model take pictures of this area here? Thanks!

Actually mSATA might be possible on 8470p, as the sata pins are connected. I believe I read somewhere that mSATA can be used as cache drive for RAID-0 setup on 8470p. However it's not bootable and no SSD get recognized under OS.

Port 1 seems to be WWAN on 2570p (based on 2560p schematic). Paired with Expresscard on Port 2 might be possible, provided WWAN is not whitelisted, but it is.

That's out of question now . It took me whole 6 months (and a lot of sweat) to build those machines to my liking with over $2000 spent. Dell also comes without Displayport (only HDMI) which is unacceptable for my setup. eGPU, while good addition to those builds, is not to be considered primary reason for getting them. New version of HWInfo now reports 2.0 as well. #1 seems to be Wi-Fi #2 ExpressCard #35 JMicron SD reader So x2.2 might be possible after all, however I'm not entirely sure if it's worth the extra $40 to find out.

I wonder, is PE4H better alternative for 8470p than PE4L? 8470p has 3 PCIe ports(EC, Wifi, Modem), all running at 2.0, so in theory x2.2 link should be possible (10gbps). 2570p has only one PCIe running 2.0, the rest is 1.0

Thanks, I'd rather stick to MBR and Win7+XP. 750ti would be best option since it's 60W TDP perfect for 12V 5A AC brick which is easily transportable. I'm now digging into the DSDT modification and I'm slightly puzzled how to load it as registry modification. By the way, has anyone found out if BIOS rollback is possible after F.50? That would really help. One last thing - 2570p consumes less power under 32bit Windows OS. I measured 4.7W idle with lowest brightness, no wifi and 2nd HDD attached.

Hi there, long time no see. Could someone recommend me budget nVidia GPU fully compatible with 2570p and 8470p in eGPU setup? My first aim was for 750ti, which provides best performance per watt, but apparently isn't quite compatible with 2570p. OS: Windows 7 x64 and XP x86 Also have GRUB as bootloader, so Setup 1.2x isn't a choice for me.

Hi, I read you're based in France. Just to let you know, if you think you're not up for the cooling mod I mentioned, I can drill it for you (I'm based in EU). Basically the idea is this: 32x32x2.5mm copper shims on the heatsink to enhance its heat soak abilities 200x100x0.5mm copper mesh to help spread the heat across lower area near the service door - it's quite convenient as you can thermally join the laptop base with it. Holes in service door in fan and optical bay area - should help the system breathe & direct the cool air through the hot mesh which in turn improves the cooling by a lot. Final small mod - remove fan screws, use Noctua fan assembly (mainly the silicone screws), cut its head and use dual sided thin tape to secure it to laptop base and the fan. This should/will remove the annoying fan whine. Still dunno how could 2560p/2570p pass the 35W TDP test, as it's CLEARLY not built to dissipate that much heat. Loading my CPU in default configuration to 35W resulted in temps 95 - 98°C, 84°C with service door removed. With this mod, I'm expecting to hit max temps below 70°C I'm currently waiting for the spare service door to be delivered (there's one on Aliexpress). Once done, I'll take pictures and provided you agree, I can drill yours no problem. PS: I still can't get used to 2570p, it's just so small to be a workstation. PPS: 2560p is running well with ULV i5-2557M BGA to PGA. I have yet to measure its consumption, but seeing its CPU package being 1W under i7-2860QM in idle, I can safely predict 3.6 - 3.8W

Yes I still have the 2560p, even though it's listed for sale. It's not in my sig as there's character limit. AS5 is quite outdated, there are TIMs that'll give you better results. I'm using Gelid GC Extreme If you're planning to invest into 2570p be advised that it's not 'better than 2560p' in all aspects. There's low PWM issue which can't be easily fixed and limits the normal usage of the laptop. i7-2760QM is a good choice. Sandy Bridge CPUs tend to be more consistent in their PVS rating (efficiency) than Ivy. Adding copper shims b/w CPU and heatsink proved inefficient in my setup, and even worsened the results, with 5°C more on CPU. Better idea is to drill bottom cover beneath the fan, glue there iron mesh, then add 35x35x2.5mm copper shim on the heatsink (not between the CPU) and on it solder 200x100x0.5mm copper mesh. Cut leading holes into the mesh (use the bottom lid as 'template') and that should be it. Once done, I'll post photos, it's easy and reversible (though you need spare service door) so it won't void your warranty. i7-2xxxQM are most efficient around x12-x14 multiplier. Use Throttlestop instead of Windows power scheme. Hopefully that'll answer your question.