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Alex banned over 20 of my accounts XD

The way I did it, I pressed firmly on the bottom edge of the key while at the same time pulling on the top edge of the opposite side of the key until you hear a click or a pop sound (i.e you hold down the left bottom edge while pulling on the top right edge). You have to pull on it a bit because pulling it too hard right away might break the clamp that holds the key to the white plastic that's bound to the keyboard. Also, with the shift key, there is a metal bar that holds it. When putting your shift key back, remember to place the metal bar first and line the bar with the holes that it goes into on the keyboard. Once you start pulling off the keys, it'll be easy enough to put back after a while.

Hey guys, In order to install your 2nd you must first buy this: 9.5mm sata to sata 2nd hdd hard drive caddy for laptop - eBay (item 290534443125 end time May-15-11 00:44:43 PDT) This one fits PERFECTLY! Delivery is hella fast also. I ordered it on Wednesday and received it Friday. Anyways enjoy the video. Watch the whole thing before you start because I made a mistake so you don't have to! Always uncut, unedited ;p (lazy AZN) Watch the video when it's up

Ok, so OCZ released a new firmware 2.06, to address the AHCI issue. After i verified it yesterday i can safely say that you can now install in AHCI mode without any tweaks. The Freezing problem was not solved and the LPM tweak is still needed. To update your laptop to the latest firmware you are going to need the latest OCZ Toolbox. The update needs to be executed from a OS that isn't on the SSD, so if you have two HDDs in your laptop, boot from the HDD, not the SSD or the update will fail. Two more things, you have to run the tool as administrator AND you have to run in XP Compatibility Mode or it won't be able to locate the SSD. Observations : AHCI issue completely gone LPM tweak still needed to prevent drive freezing Run the OCZ update tool from a OS other than the one installed on the SSD Run the OCZ update tool with Administrator privileges Run the OCZ update tool in XP Compatibility Mode Absolutely no speed enhancements after update OCZ claims it improved boot speeds - i didn't observe it. My boot time is around 19 seconds before and after the update First post updated.

Here's my most recent benchies, some promising stuff here as I think it could be pushed even further with some driver and CCC tweaking. Vantage: P16,128 GPU: 14,793 CPU: 22,117 11: P4,445 Graphics: 4,150 Physics: 7,905 Combined: 3,960 06: 22,317 SM2.0: 9,126 SM3.0: 10,108 CPU: 6,345

My desktop is completely empty as well, I even have it to auto-hide the taskbar

Guys, just an FYI, if you are running a 6970m card like me, the link you should be using is http://www2.ati.com/drivers/mobile/11-5_mobility_vista_win7_64_dd_ccc_ocl.exe the one in the front page doesn't include 6970m. @svl7 Could you please update the first post with that link ? I can confirm it's working flawlessly so far on my M17x-R3.

so when using this paste make sure to protect yourself, please use asian condoms.

I've owned a lot of high end gaming notebooks since the Dell Inspiron XPS Gen 2. I haven't owned a mainstream or a multimedia powerhouse notebook since then; strictly gaming notebooks. My first notebook mod was making a hybrid between an Inspiron XPS Gen 2 and the newer XPS M1710 (Gen 2 Lid, M1710 base and motherboard). That experience got me hooked on modding the other notebooks I got my hands on; from green palm-rested M9750s running Radeon 3870s in Crossfire to a OCZ Whitebook that was actually white and carried a TV tuner. Now comes the M17x-R2. In terms of functionality, specs and everything in respect to its time of introduction, this is the best gaming notebook I have ever owned. Attractive design, modular components (MXM, Mini PCI-e), amazing screen; it's hard to find a notebook that can beat the M17x in terms of the overall package today (and I think the M18x has the best shot of doing that). So now comes that time again to fully mod this machine before I send it off and upgrade to another gaming notebook in the late future. This time, I'm going all out: from changing the GPUs to reanodizing the frame (yes, reanodize it) and I've already gotten started, despite it being exam week for me. Now since most of you guys are notebook enthusiasts like me I'd like to hear your input of what I should add/upgrade to this machine. Here's a check list of what I've done so far: Keyboard/Key Replacement (darker, but more luminescent keys) Unlocked A10 BIOS V1 IR Remote And here is what I plan to do: 1) WiFi/Mini-PCI E replacement: getting rid of the Ultimate N-6300 to possibly the following: - Intel Advanced N 6230 (since it has bluetooth, it opens up the other Mini-PCI E slot for something like a TV tuner or a WiHD module) - Atheros WiFi/Bluetooth combo (similar to the 6230) - BigFoot Killer N 1103 (and deal with the loss of bluetooth and upgrade the second slot to TV tuner, WiHD module, or something else) 2) GPU Replacement: I already tested a 6970M in the system and there are still things to be worked out. Thanks' to Mumak's progressions, the 6970M in a R2 seems to be more practical. Though I got rid of my 1120 shader card, I bought an even better setup. Probably not as exciting and most can guess what it's going to be... 3) Optical Drive replacement: This system came with a boring 8x DVD burner. Time to upgrade to a Blu-ray burner. There's the 4x BD-R Panasonic UJ235A that's on ebay, or I can wait for the slot-load version of the UJ240 with 6x BD-R. I'm still looking for a Sony/NEC slot-load BD-R as I've had a better experience with that brand for optical drives 4) Body work: I thought about powdercoating or just spray painting, but something about anodized coating stands out more. So, I decided I'm going to go with that. I've already bought a spare lid and a spare bottom base that I've already stripped down so that it's just the aluminum pieces. I'll have to remove the current anodized coat using Lye and send it off to the nearest plating firm to coat it. That, or I can do it myself... I haven't decided on the color yet, but I'm leaning towards a dark sapphire blue. 5) Power: Thought about getting an extended life version of the M17x battery, still looking into that. All depends on how much of an improvement in average life and average decay they provide. Also, depending if the new 330w PSU that comes with the M18x works in older systems, that's another option. Nothing too fancy or ambitious. 6) Heatsink modification: This is probably the most ambitious of all my goals, but I know a few shops that could help me out with this. Basically my goal is to completely redesign the GPU heatsinks to make it more focused on dissipating heat through the vents. This includes adding three copper pipes for each GPU heatsink (the third to soak up the heat from the memory banks, which the current heatsink doesn't have. And if I can't make my own, I'll see what I can do to improve on the current one. So that's what I'm looking at now. What do you guys think? any suggestion of what to do/what not to do? This project should easily replace the amount of gaming I do and also reduce my daily caffeine intake. EDIT: Also, I'll use this post to document any updates on this project if you guys are interested.

Here are some videos of some people who received their M14x prior to ours. Just to fill in the gap of waiting. Unboxing: English Accent: French: Red Version (Quiet): Red Version : How to OC: Lights: Configure: Rainbow theme: Performance: 3DMark06(stock) : 3DMark06(OC): Games: Black OPS: YouTube - Alienware M14x - CoD Black Ops SinglePlayer Gameplay Black OPS2: Crysis 2: YouTube - Alienware M14x - Crysis 2 Gameplay Bad Company2: YouTube - Alienware M14x - Bad Company 2 SinglePlayer Gameplay Metro 2033: YouTube - Alienware M14x - Metro2033 Gameplay Starcraft 2: YouTube - Alienware m14x Starcraft 2 Performance. (too short) Brink: YouTube - Alienware m14x Brink Gameplay Video Operation Flashpoint: Gameplay video made by Steven: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVEOJ3GGIgI RAGINGAZN628'S HACKINTOSH TUTORIAL VIDEOS Ragingazn628 Hackintosh Install Part 1 Ragingazn628 Hackintosh Install Part 2 Ragingazn628 Hackintosh Install Part 3 Ragingazn628 Hackintosh Install Part 4 Subscribe to Ragingazn628's Youtube Channel (Tom's tech tips) for more gameplay videos and unboxings. Thanks to all who posted these vids. Just add some to the list if you find anything new.

Yeah just some light a/c though, don't think I want to go quite as far as dice on this rig, I may consider it down the road but not right now as I don't want to run the risk of jacking it up by pushing it too far with dice on it. I just lowered the temps to about 20-25 c before starting the run. I like the new 11.5a hotfix drivers, they bench very well.

Hi guys i don't post much because i usually read and find solutions but this time i don't know what to do the machine it's been great so far i had couple problems already solved like #1 palm rest getting hot : Solved by replacing with SSD #2 BSOD's at startup : Solved by uninstalling intel rapid storage drivers note: my SSD is a patriot inferno 120GB sandforce controller sf-1222 for reference #3 Refresh Rate going back to 40HZ on battery : solved by installing latest intel IGP drivers #4 Low transfer speed on secondary HDD installed on the ODD caddy the transfers start good and slowly go down to 5MB i test the drive with an external docking station and it works perfect so the problem is on the caddy i don't know if is a power issue on is not compatible with Sata 3 ,don't even know if the optical drive connector is sata 3 but my drive is a samsung spinpoint sata 2 : no solution yet i need the space because all my games are on the HDD and only couple on the SSD

Indeed, at least with apps like that you know that you are being tracked and in most cases people willing submit their position and habits (ie facebook or google maps), the problem is greater though when you are unaware of it (someone intercepted an unencrypted password you typed in an unsecured wifi connection somewhere in a public location like a cafeteria) and even worse when someone else is using those stolen credentials and you find out later on...

this one works

We also have a teamspeak channel courtesy of wbabt007. So I'm down for some games after my M18x arrives. Steam ID: www.techinferno.com

Lol, its sooo true I never keep an icon or file there unless its there as a temporary place holder lol! Must be an OCD thing... I think a desktop is just supposed to have a picture or a video (dreamscene), nothing more.

I think there's two possibilities for blackcomb XTX: 1. It's the 1120 shader version like ichime has or it's an overclocked 6970M. It depends on the nVida's newest 500 series. If they are substantially faster than 6970M, then we can expect to see the 1120 shader version to counter that threat. As for nVidia's latest card, I'm not interested unless nVidia drops their prices to match or beat AMD. If they do that, then they will become a strong contender. There is also rumor that RGB LED will make a comeback to M18x later on in the fall. If all of this turns out being true, I think it will be for M18x-R2 rather than the current revision.

@Micheal: That's what I thought... no 3d clocks without PP. Good to hear 11.5 solves the issue, in this case it's not a vbios issue. If I remember correctly I had actually the Dell driver installed when I experienced this issue with my card...

Well, it's not offered yet but i bet that if those video cards are introduced within your 21 days return period you can call in and arrange an upgrade. If i were you i'd get the M18x, and keep it for those three weeks return period. Once you get close you can either choose to return it and reorder or ask for an upgrade.

lol @ MW86 off topic- I noticed how you have no desktop icons and have everything on your quick launch. I'm the same way. I think it's and OCD thing I have lol

You can also take a look at the C300 and C400 that support sata 3

At one point, I wanted to try two GTX 460Ms in the R2 to see how well SLi would scale on it. I had two 460Ms in my possession (bought from Eurocom) but the idiots at Dell kept sending me the wrong Sli cable (I needed the SLi cable from an R1 or an R2). I even lied to them and told them that I had an R1 instead of an R2 and they kept sending me desktop SLi bridges. I did test a single GTX 460M in my system and compared it to when I ran a single 5870 on the same system. In most of the games I had, the 5870M was significantly faster but the 460M ran much cooler; it didn't even reach 80 degrees despite the fan control not working. I could only speculate how two GTX 460Ms in SLi in a R2 would have compared to 5870s in CF (boy I really wanted to do this), but considering how improved Crossfire scaling is getting with the latest drivers, you'd probably see a similar margin as a single GPU setup.

In Flames - Crawl Through Knives In Flames - Man Made God In Flames - The Quiet Place In Flames - Free Fall http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4m0Lt5e6b4&feature=related Metaphor - In Flames In Flames - Worlds Within The Margin In Flames - Only For The Weak In Flames- Evil In A Closet In Flames - Sleepless Again In Flames - The Chosen Pessimist In Flames - Dawn of a new Day In Flames - Pallar Anders Visa http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGVJY_wraM8&feature=related Acoustic medley - In Flames http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeyFrzw2jBQ&feature=related In Flames - Trigger http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGqFo5cAj1I

My advice for taking your m14x apart. Tools: a. Small Notebook Phillips Screw Driver b. Scotch or Masking Tape (masking preferred) c. Black Marker d. Old credit card or soft plastic flat edge to help you pry. e. Cotton Swabs f. High quality alcohol or rubbing alcohol g. Quality thermal paste. h. Print outs of each step from service manual or extra notebook to download the steps. 1. Follow each step of the dell manual on how to remove your system board. At the end you will also need the instructions on how to remove the heat sync. 2. As you remove screws, attach them to masking tap and label them by step and part. Example remove hard drive, step 3. 3. When you need to pry items such as the palm rest, start very slow and be cautions. If you break any of the plastic tabs it will not sit correctly. (I can say that my notebook feels even more solid after taking it all apart and putting back together my way). 4. The difficult areas on the break down are removal of palm rest and removal of system board. You CAN NOT get to the heat syncs without COMPLETELY removing the system board from the case. 5. For the palm rest, once everything is completely remove, gently pull up on each side of the mouse touch pad. about two inches to the right/left of the mouse pad where you removed the keyboard. This seems to be the "sweet" spot. 6. For the system board after each screw is removed and all cables are removed, gently pull up from the right side and pull to the right. The way the system board fits, on re-assembly you have to slide the left side of the system board in first and then get the right side to fit down (if this makes sense). Good Luck So far my GPU temps are 4 to 5 c lower and the CPU temps are 6 to 7c lower. (also keep in mind my heatsync screws were NOT as tight as they should have been originally in my opinon.) Best Wishes, StevenX

Welcome to the forum Titan God, glad to have you with us.

Guys nice WEI score on the M14X... the scores are around my max I got on my M17X R2. My system was overclocked as you can see in Throttle Stop. The config was I7 920Xm, 8gb DDR3 1333mhz, HD5870M Crossfire using 11.4 Catalyst Beta Drivers, 2 Samsung PM800 SSD (256GB) in Raid0. StamatisX's registry mod was applied to allow max turbo multiplier to be applied constantly across all cores. I also followed Michael's SSD optimization guide here. http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff474/marcwwaters86/weiat99tdp94tdcwithnocorestates.jpg

Here's a teaser pic taken with my iPad Rest is comin'

Thanks for the pics, the embed sliedshow doesn't show up but the link to the album works. Like StamatisX said, a towel is not the best place for a mobo...

Brian that's for you http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=JhlfT-x6Ys0

well if you know the ip address of the server you are connected, you can open a command console and type: ping xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx (replace the xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx with the actual ip address of the server)

It's real easy to do. 1. Open regedit (Click Start, type regedit.exe and press ENTER) 2. Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\OEMInformation 3. Create the following three String Value entries Logo - Place a path to a 120x120 BMP image of your choice Manufacturer - Alienware Model - Your model here 4. Exit registry editor I suggest we rename this thread to Alienware Windows Customizations - Restore Alienware's Look & Feel and sticky it. Lots of good info here for those who reformat and want to keep the branded AW windows look.

found another one: Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra 100% Metal Thermal Interface Material

11.5 seems to give a bit higher scores... did some late night benching yesterday: 3dMark11: And vantage: I'm getting to M17x r3 levels, hehehehe.

nsfw.. sob..

Titan: http://forum.techinferno.com/off-topic/300-hot-chicks-thread.html

Welcome TitanGod to T|I!!