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  1. 2 likes
    Cable arrived. I attached some pictures (box and cable) . I tested it and it works perfectly! P.S.: This is the 25cm version. https://prnt.sc/km4wyc
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    I have this computer, and there is only one card you can put in it that's "newer". If you have the GTX 660M, you can get a GTX 670M version made for this computer. Other than that, you cannot put any newer card in the computer (incompatible hardware and chipsets). Btw, it is possible to install a modded BIOS for this computer to overclock your graphics card. You could get a little extra performance that way.
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    Hi, the adapter is the latest one. The PCB version is #2 but the mentioned resistor has the new value -> 10k instead of 1k.
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    Use whatever you have. Every cable you have it's ok,but everything depends on your soldering skills. If you are good at soldering,dosn't matter if the cable is thick. If your are not so good at soldering,you need a thin cable. Cheers
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    If you use vbios "Nvidia GTX 780m - 'OC edition' - rev02" with MSI laptop, then you should install modified Nvidia driver. Just search in Google what is modified Nvidia driver, and how prepare it. If you don't like use modified Nvidia drivers, then you should flash vbios for MSI version 780M.
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    GTX 780 from g750jh, but you also need the cooling system, the charging board and charger, plus the bigger bottom of the jh.
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    Hi, From my experience so far (tried to put gtx 980m in g750jx) you need a rev 2.0 motherboard in order to be able to make the mod, because the rev 2.1 motherboard has the intel gpu disabled and it will not work with a gpu and motherboard that is built to work also with the intel. The laptop will not powerup because the new gpu will cause a shortcircuit on the 2.1 rev motherboard. I will purchase a rev 2.0 motherboard and try the mod, when i will find the time. Kind regards from Romania
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    Those caps are completely unnecessary. You can throw them in the trash and forget about them. They insignificantly reduce voltage ripple on the 12V line and you have way more than you need. A laptop GPU will have around 4 15 uF caps, and you still have 6 330 uF caps for the same purpose. I am more concerned about what damage from bending happened to the card due to the extreme force required to rip the heatsink in half. That should require well over 100 pounds of force, and very likely destroyed the card.
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    You mean, from Windows Device Manager? I just plugged the GTX 970, and (looks like) it's working! Thank you @High_Voltage for the BIOS, and Thank you @gerald for the adapter!
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    Some guide how to use SPI Programmer CH341a:Step 1.If you already get your modified bios then go to Step 2.Step 2.Purchase the necessary equipment.To flash bios mod in to your bios chip you need a CH341A programmer and a SOIC8 SOP8 test clip. (You can found them on ebay, it cost a total of $20 USD for both items.)Step 3.The drivers and software for the hardware you can purchased were located on the seller's ad page on ebay.) This step should usually be completed BEFORE plugging the programmer to your computer. Installing them before plugging the programmer into your computer will help avoid potential driver trouble with Windows. (If you have some trouble with drivers installing, then just disable "Driver Signature Enforcement" as the drivers were not digitally signed). After installation, reboot your computer.Step 4.Connect the clip to the programmer and then plug in the programmer into your computer. Run the included software.Step 5.Now you should try to search the bios chip on your motherboard. Usually you need 8-pin chip with first two digits 25, like this: Winbond 25Q32FVSVQ, 25Q32FV, 25Q64FV, 25L3273E, MX25L6473E or the same.Step 6.This step will be based entirely on the software that came with your programmer. Enter in the exact chip information or, if the software you're using has an auto-detect option, you can use this, but I would recommend double checking.Step 7.Read the chip. Read the current programming on the chip and then read chip again. Then make some comparisons between them with any Hex editor. Make sure that it looks exactly the same. Remember, they should be the exactly identical, so they should still look exactly identical.Step 8.Load the modified bios file and write it to the chip.After loading the modified file, the tools use only required click an "Auto" button. This then took around a minute or two to write everything to the bios chip. If the program freezes, or appears to be doing nothing, don't touch anything for the next 10 minutes as you don't want to mess anything up if it is doing something.Step 9.Done. Remove the clips and see if your laptop boots. Another guide: Open your laptop and find your bios chip and search for it. Usually you need 8-pin chip with first two digits 25, like this: Winbond 25Q32FVSVQ, 25Q32FV, 25Q64FV, 25L3273E, MX25L6473E or the same Connect the ch341a and clip to your windows machine and laptop Open ch341a programmer 1.13/ CH341A.exe click “chip search” if it find your chip then next step, else rechip the chip/ Open ch341a programmer 1.26/ CH341AFree.exe choose your bios type/size. Click Read After done click Save (original_1.bin) Repeat step5 and save as original_2.bin Open HxD “Crtl+k” compare original_1.bin and original_2.bin if they are same go to next step otherwise repeat 5) Then post it in the relevant topic or upload it to any fileserver and post the link in the relevant topic. When you get your modified bios, then time to write bios to the chip Open ch341a programmer 1.26/ CH341AFree.exe choose your bios type/size Click Erase it will erase your chip . You must do it before flash After bios chip will be erased , then click Open, choice your modified bios Click Write and wait 100% Now the mod is done, remove the clip and power on the laptop, it will beep 5 x2 time , it will gone once you go to bios setting and restart. Another guide: https://www.win-raid.com/t796f16-Guide-Using-CH-A-based-programmer-to-flash-SPI-EEPROM.html Also, you can search on YouTube a lot of guide for CH341a. CH341A programmer: https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Programmer-CH341A-Series-Burner-Chip-24-EEPROM-BIOS-Writer-25-SPI-Flash-AU/153117073868?epid=577511738&hash=item23a67d21cc:g:XKEAAOSw5UdbW-iL https://www.amazon.com/Parts-tower-CH341A-Programmer-Software/dp/B01FVVHCVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522179315&sr=8-4&keywords=ch341a&dpID=51BO7eGgO5L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch SOIC8/SOP8 test clip: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Soic8-Sop8-Flash-Chip-Ic-Test-Clips-Socket-Adpter-Bios-24-25-93-Programmer/201414947737?hash=item2ee5443399:g:up8AAOSw1Fda8qkt https://www.amazon.ca/MAUSAN-Socket-Adapter-150MIL-205MIL/dp/B06ZYSNJF3/ref=pd_sbs_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XM79QJWGED6B4K2VEZDJ
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    Hi. I'm an Alienware m15x owner. I've upgraded just about everything in it. I'm mostly here for the Slv7 Bios, but I'm sure I'll find some other useful information here.
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    @David 'SOAP' Washington do you have any more pictures/information on this mod? What is this? A Ultrabay adaptar that have both PCI Express and SATA connectors?
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    Due to a stupid accident by me, I acquired a 980m with a chunk knocked out of the core. Not wanted to scrap a perfectly good top end PCB for parts, I wanted to replace the core. You can see the gouge in the core to the left of the TFC918.01W writing near the left edge of the die. First I had to get the dead core off: With no sellers on ebay selling GM204 cores, my only option was to buy a full card off ebay. With no mobile cards under $500,I had to get a desktop card. And with this much effort involved to do the repair, of course I got a 980 instead of a 970. Below is the dead 980 I got off ebay: You can see for some reason someone removed a bunch of components between the core and PCI-E slot. I have no idea why anyone would do this. I tried the card and it was error 43. PCB bend seemed to be too little to kill the card, so those missing components had to be it. GPUs can be dead because someone removed or installed a heatsink wrong and broke a corner of the core off, so buying cards for cores on ebay is a gamble. This core is not even scratched: Preheating the card prior to high heat to pull the core: And core pulled. It survived the pull: Next is the 980 core on the left cleaned of solder. On the right is the original 980m core: Next I need to reball the 980 core, and lastly put it on the card. I am waiting for the BGA stencil to arrive from China. It still has not cleared US customs: https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAction?tLabels=LS022957368CN When that shows up expect the core to be on the card in 1-2 days. So some potential issues with this mod besides me physically messing up: I believe that starting with Maxwell Nvidia started flashing core configuration onto the cores, like intel does with CPUID. I believe this because I found laser cuts on a GK104 for a 680m, but could not find any on two GM204 cores. In addition, Clyde figured out device IDs on the 680m and K5000m. They are set by resistor values on the PCB. The 980m has the same resistor configuration as the 680m for the lowest nibble of the Device ID (0x13D7), but all of the resistors are absent. Filling in these resistors does nothing. Resistors do exist for the 3 and D in the device ID. Flashing a 970m vBIOS on my 980m did not change the device ID or core configuration. If this data is not stored on the PCB through straps or the vBIOS, then it must be stored on the GPU core. So I expect the card with the 980 core to report its device ID as 0x13D0. The first 12 bits pulled from the PCB, and last 4 from the core. 0x13D0 does not exist. I may possibly be able to add it to the .inf, or I may have to change the ID on the board. With the ID's 0 hardset by the core, I can only change the device ID to 0x13C0, matching that of a desktop 980. An additional issue may be that the core may not fully enable. Clyde put a 680 core on a K5000m and never got it to unlock to 1536 CUDA cores. We never figured out why. Lastly, there was very tough glue holding the 980m core on. When removing this glue I scraped some of the memory PCB traces. I checked with a multimeter and these traces are still intact, but if they are significantly damaged this can be problematic for memory stability. I think they are OK though, just exposed. Due to Clyde's lack of success in getting his 680 core to fully unlock I am concerned I might not get 2048. If I don't at least I should still have a very good chip. Desktop chips are better binned than mobile chips (most 980s are over 80% ASIC quality, while most 980ms are below 70%). In addition this 980 is a Galax 980 Hall of Fame, which are supposedly binned out of the 980 chips. Having a 90%+ ASIC would be great to have. The mid 60s chips we get in the 980m suck tons of power. I want to give a special thanks to Mr. Fox. This card was originally his. He sent me one card to mod and one to repair. I repaired the broken one and broke the working one. The broken one is the one I've been modding. Article update: SUCCESS! Core finally reballed. If the mount is poor I will be very very angry... Card cooling. New brain installed. So it actually works with the 980m vBIOS. I tried modding too soon. I just needed to reinstall the driver. I only ran a very lightweight render test because right now the card is only running on 2 phases. I'm pulling the phase driver from my 980m now to get the 3rd phase back up. Follow the rest of the discussion here:
  19. 1 like
    dude, 384.76 was released. Is it worth upgrade? Now I'm using 382.33 on my M18x R2 with dual 980M SLi.
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    Anyone got any ideas of who OEM the board for HP's Z420? I want to overclock the ram and CPU I have. I tried looking for the OEM via these numbers 619557-001 618263-001 If someone wants to Mod the bios I am willing work out a deal for the work.
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    Version 1.0.0


    Files contained in this archive: 'Error 104' Fix - v01.zip Lenovo Y500 - Y400 - BIOS [v2.02] - stock .zip Lenovo_Y500-Y400_-_Mod_[v2.04] (including update for 2.02 & 2.03 users).zip Lenovo-y500-y400-bios-[v2.02]-stock-.zip Y500 -Y400 - SLI 650m - - OC.rom.zip Y500 - Y400 - SLI 750m - 80.07.9D.00.11 - OC.zip For instructions on how to use these files, see this thread: Donation Link: Here's the 'buy me a beer' link in case you like this <<


  23. 1 like

    Version 1.0.0


    Klem's_vbios_MSI_GTX880M_80.04.F7.00.07_UNLOCKED.rar For both, 4Gb and 8Gb card. 1. Unlocked Nvidia core limit +135 MHz. 2. Unlocked Power Limit. 3. Unlocked Power adjustment by software (for example with Nvidia Inspector). 4. Increased Power Limit and Power Target. 5. Enabled some additional tweaks. If you liked my mod, you can buy me some beer: https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_donations&business=NHMKKB6RCME46&lc=GB&item_name=Donation%20for%20Klem&currency_code=USD&bn=PP%2dDonationsBF%3abtn_donateCC_LG%2egif%3aNonHosted


  24. 1 like
    Just managed to trigger the Asus Easy Flash process, it seems that the USB drive must not be NTFS. I used a SD Card of 16MB (a very old SD card bought with a canon camera like 6 years ago) inside a USB Card Reader that I had formated as FAT and placed a single file called G750JW.BIN on it then started my PC while holding the Ctrl+Home button pressed and it worked. So, in conclusion to force a BIOS reflash on the Asus G750 JW, using the Asus Easy Flash, you need: - a USB drive formated as FAT or FAT32 (but not NTFS!!!) - bios file saved as G750JW.BIN. -powering the laptop while holding Ctrl+Home should do the rest. Warning! BIOS overwrite will start without any further confirmation asked, if it starts don't think to interrupt it! Let it finish. Also, after BIOS update and powering on the laptop, it could take a while (up to 20-30 seconds) until it will show something on the screen. Not sure why, and not sure what it is doing, but let it have its time.
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    I was just brave enough today to try the svl7 V-BIOS and the whole issue of flickering & white lines have all disappeared 100% and the notebook is working flawlessly in all games at 120hz, in SLI mode with no problem at all. Here is a list of games I have tried so far with the new Svl7 V-BIOS: Batman Arkham city Batman Arkham origins Assassin Creed III Just Cause 2 Sleeping Dogs 2 Tomb Raider 2013 Splintercell Blacklist Farcry 3 Crysis Metro 2033 & Metro Last light BTW I have tried the new Nvidia driver 331.58 before modding my V-BIOS and it didn't work, it may even made the flickering worse. I'm really gratefully to Svl7 for making this V-BIOS & the only possible solution to this problem. I think the reason why this V-BIOS solved the problem is the SAGER V-BIOS version is so bad it doesn't have the correct voltage/wattage to feed the 2 GPU cards (in 120Hz) for good performance, thats why its always flickering & making all games f###d up because of the bad V-BIOS version that doesn't supply both GPUs with enough power to work properly. Thanks again to Svl7, Prema & Bud Marley for creating this post to resolve this huge problem which affects all the SAGER NP-9380S Notebooks.
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    Since I started this thread, I want to tell you that I am now using a dell 240 watts psu. The power it gives to my msi gt60 is far superior than the stock 180watts it came with. I have a modified ov vbios for my 680m (with 1.025volts) plus the fact that I can fiddle the fsb speed up to 105fsb. I also manage to put a 2920xm to it and gained and oc speed of up to 4.2 gigahertz. I am now thinking if I will get a 300watts (19.5volts x 15.4 = 300watts) dell adapter. It has the same specs of a 240watts dell (19.5volts x 12.3=240watts) though. Cheers
  27. 1 like
    here you go , sorry it took soo long, I was asleep lol wait didn't realize the the last 4 digits changed brb nvcv.zip

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