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Showing most liked content since 11/16/17 in all areas

  1. 2 likes
    I found a better way to disable Turbo boost. This is by far the easiest way to go if you're upgrading to a quad core. IMO its easy to do, set up and forget, instead of having to use a 3rd party program. I don't think its been talked about before here, but yeah here it is. You keep the "Maximum processor state" to its standard setting of 100% but then you install a registry tweak which will enable a new setting in the Advanced Power Options, called "Processor performance boost mode". You set that to "Disabled" and it will completely disable Turbo Boost. Results:
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    Thanks again @batyanko Today, I can confirm that the 2570p's that I saw were all socketed. I used HP PartSurfer to view all the components of a specific 2570p device. Using the serial number of the laptop and the country it originally came with, I was provided with a tabular list of all the laptop's components along with their part numbers. These part numbers can be googled and can be used as a reference when ordering part replacement from HP. Anyway, using the HP PartSurfer, I confirm that the laptop has a socketed CPU (system board part number 685404-001) and it also list that the board is fitted with an i5 3320M cpu which also answers my question of wether the 3320m was soldered or not. The 3320M (681952-001 part number) can be ordered and therefore, can be removed and be replaced by a new one so it is not soldered. Another thing, it also has Broadcom Model: BCM943228HM4L which is compatible with El Capitan if ever I decide to make a hackintosh out of it. Neat! I'll purchase an Elitebook tomorrow.
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    Hello everyone. Just got a used sager p157sm for a gpu upgrade project and noticed it beeps for a minute then shuts down by itself when under load. It does well when watching movies but when benchmarking the issue pops up. At first I thought it was the gpu so I unplugged it but still occurs. Now it's running only CPU and still does the same things after repasting. Temps of CPU remain along 80 - 87 degrees centigrade. I've cleaned system components and changed Ram modules and slots still nothing. Any help will be appreciated.
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    From what I understand, you are unable to access download links due to being pre-promotion status. From what I’ve read after a week your account will be reviewed and upgraded if not deemed not spam. I’m in a similar boat as you as I cannot access downloads yet either. Someone please correct me if I’m wrong.
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    Hi My Aussie Friend. Thanks so much 4 responded to help me out ! at last in here only my countryman to help me out ! coz i've been waited for couple of days,i can't get any responded or help from any Gentlemen here,while so desperate,i took a risk n bought a Nvidia GTX 970M from a guy in Melbourne here,i told him i just flash the stock bios is 1.00.03A to Prema's 1.02.17PM V2 bios already,now the only thing i am worries is i don't know which brand of laptop he pull out this GTX 970M,cos if it's from Alienware or other n not from Clevo,then i must flash the Vbios for the card to works in my P150EM,but he said : the card he pull out of his Alienware 17,he bought it b4 to upgraded his AW,n he said the card is generic one,so it should works in any laptop,so i was very concern,but i tried to bite the bullet n bought it,went home,installed n boots up,it's boots into Windows without any problem,when i checked device manager,it showed Intel HD 4000 on top,n standard VGA adapter under ! i've followed the the guy on the top of this page installed nvidia 358.50,but it showed incompatibility,at that time my heart sunken ! i tried some latest drivers,but no success,i knew it won't works with any latest drivers as the Gentleman said on top of the page,but when i was desperate,i tried any thing ! lucky me,i've the USB i kept all the Nvidia drivers date back to 340.xx something,i then tried 355.98,n guess what ? it's compatible,n ask to agree n installing smoothly,so after driver installed,i can run Win7 index OK,i don't play game,just did some light photos works n surf the web only ! i'm so happy,at last it done now,but i don't know why : i can't installed any latest drivers other than 355.98 ! i tried to update to newer drivers,but no success,only 355.98 for this GTX 970M at the moment,but i don't mind,i don't game any way,so again thanks so much for ur concern n help me out Mate ! God bless you ! cheers. Best regards.
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    Good stuff, thanks for sharing! In line with that topic I thought I should share some stuff about power consumption, too. Recently I started fitting a Toshiba Satellite C870 for use - also an Ivy Bridge laptop. That model though has the power feed to the CPU capped at 35W in the BIOS and behaves really unstable with a 45W processor. So I played with 'turbostat' to see what frequencies result in what power consumption, which might be interesting for 2570p users, too (I actually ran the tests on the 2570p and on the C870 with identical results, except for the full boost speeds on the C870 which were unstable). Here are all the results - testing a Core-i5 2320M and Core-i7 3720QM at single-thread (1) stress, multi-threaded (8) stress and multi-threaded + Furmark. Also note the tests running at 2900MHz and 3200MHz mimicking a 3632QM. https://gist.github.com/batyanko/5fe88f89036f14483e84a7c6fe390829 Here are also results for a 3632QM, kindly shared by user haagch from phoronix.com forums: https://gist.github.com/ChristophHaag/b019a10c255f05046ffa52efc63b2b60 Some of my observations: - It seems that the 3720QM is not only able to run at 3632QM speeds when needed, but is also more efficient by ~4W. So there seems no good reason for choosing 3612QM or 3632QM over a 45W model. - GPU / IGP can be a huge power hog if stressed well with Furmark or a 3D game. - The i5-3230M could have easily been marketed as 30W, I totally couldn't push it over that mark. In fact, it cannot even do 16W unless you stress the GPU / IGP simultaneously. Note: CPU and Intel HD 400 GPU / IGP clock setting done on Kubuntu 17.10 using following commands: # Set CPU to 81% (3000MHz), base non-turbo clocks being not 99% but somewhere around 70% echo "81" | sudo tee /sys/devices/system/cpu/intel_pstate/max_perf_pct # Set GPU clock to 350MHz echo 350 | sudo tee /sys/class/drm/card0/gt_max_freq_mhz /sys/class/drm/card0/gt_boost_freq_mhz
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    Hi guys, this is my first post on here so go easy on me, I am thinking of upgrading my msi GT70 from a (had a 770m previously )970m to a 980m which I know will be plug and play without breaking a sweat. BUT I am also intrigued by the 1060m I know it's not plug and play but can someone please tell me what the know issues are so I can weigh up the pros n con of proceeding with my quest to upgrade my laptop. Some of you might have seen my video on youtube https://goo.gl/7wcXSL it's a straightforward video to understand. Can someone tell me what the steps are to install a 1060m, replacing a 970m, I modified my heat sink to fit my current 970m Will I need to regrind my heatsink again? Will i need to upgrade my firmware? Will i need to update the 1060m vbio? Where can i get a modded nvidia drivers for the 1060m? What version of 1060m will i need and where can i get one?
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    Yes, I was concerned about that too. But that problem has been addressed and if you look into the link in my previous post. You will see that each post by @J95 he methodically removes the offending folders PRIOR to hitting the install button. Let me back up and explain: You may notice when you first double click on the Nvida driver install, it automatically copies the install programs to the hard drive and looks for matching machine numbers (in the .inf folder). When it does not find the right ID number on your M18xR2, you will get a message that your 'system is incompatible'. You then close out the program and go your hard drive and find the Nvidia folder and from here you should put in the modded .inf in the display folder and then removed the offending folders indicated (repeatedly) by @j95 and finally THEN click the install button. You may find that this not only protects your screen from sudden death, it may also make you feel better and boosts your overall self esteem (LOL). But seriously, I too was reluctant to upgrade because of all the fear and loathing involved with doing something really wrong. But I did my homework, read each post carefully and in the end I can say nothing spontaneously exploded; everything worked as it should. And I was glad I upgraded: the newer games play much smoother and faster than the previous cards, the AMD 7970CF. True there is just a little CPU throttle every now and then (probably due to limitations of the PSU), but I can't really tell its happening and it doesn't affect gameplay. Take your time and do it right the first time. Good Luck. Have Fun!
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    Hello there. I upgraded my M18xR2 from the 7970M to the 980M. I just peeled the plastic off of the heat sink and fitted the right thickness to each of the thermal pads. Definitely PnP. You should have no problem with Windows 10 (though driver installation is a bit different). But I currently have the Swick A11 modded Bios and Windows 7. The video drivers install very easily: I do not work in the computer industry, so I have spent a lot of hours reading and re-reading posts: Every question or curiosity you have about the M18xR1 or M18xR2 can be answered here and on NBR. Just look and ye shall find it, bro. Parts are still easily available for this legendary machine (though a bit harder to find). The problem is that you will need a modded vBios and a 330W power supply if you want to use two 980M cards in SLI (two will cause one or the other to throttle). This forum seems to recommend Preema vBios (currently unavailable on this forum though he does have a website I hear) but there may be others able to make one up for you -for a price (be careful, other sites may not be as safe). As for the M18x R2 there are many others who broke this ground years ago and know a lot more than little old me; you can read about their problems, pains and breakthroughs right here in this forum. Sorry I can't help more. But half of the fun is all about the 'getting there'. Right? Enjoy the Ride. Best Regards,
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    I owned 17r2 with gtx970 (bga). That was my first Alienware previously I owned Asus rog laptops. But as I can tell I haven't met crappiest laptop than r2! After upgrading to win 10 I had a problem that my laptop didn't want to shut down completely from time to time I had to hold power button to turn it off. The battery died with no reason at 12%. And the temps)) even after repasting with Arctic mx4 I faced CPU throttling))). As I think modern laptops with all chips on bga are crap! If something fails it's very hard to troubleshoot and in many ways it will lead you to the motherboard replacement. And even used one from China will cost you almost like same used laptop on eBay))) So no repairs no modding and no update for you. Now I bought Alienware m17x r4 and put there a gtx980m with no issue! And I will not switch to any "new" laptop without mxm. And the funniest thing is that my m17x r4 will kick ass of any new gaming laptop for around 1k$!
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    Considering the 870dm-g has the same z170 chipset as the P750DM-G, and knowing it is definitely possible to run the 7700k with the right BIOS, I'm a little surprised it hasn't been done yet. This generation of Clevos got the shaft in a big way and it's irritating. At the same time, the 7700k isn't that much faster than the 6700k, however, I have found better deals on the 7700k. If someone can find the time to cook up a stable BIOS, I'm sure there will be plenty of followers who will support his or her endeavors with a donation, as I know I will.
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    I want to share my current success with CPU upgrade and heatsink mods. Might be some help to others. Things in this post: -3740QM experience -Fan profile and HPFanControl experience(with dual core i7-3520m) -heatsink mods -3740QM stress test First off the heatsink mods. On top of the heatsink I glued 8 of the 20x20x1mm copper shims. In a 4x2 grid. I couldnt find any 20x20x2mm copper shims on Ebay at the time, if I did then I uused them and put them in a 4x1 grid instead. I also glued 2 of the 15x15x2mm copper shims on each side of the heatsink-pipe. I used Arctic Alumina to glue them. In between the CPU and heatsink I placed a 20x20x1mm copper shim. I used Collaboratory Liquid Ultra between the CPU and copper shim, and between the copper shim and heatsink I used Arctic Silver. I set a custom fan profile using HPFanControl, to remove the annoying constant fan ramp up and ramp down, which is like someone keeps turning a vacuum on and off all the time, Now this annoying RPM jiggle was when I had my Dual Core 3520m... I haven't had enough time to test the standard BIOS fan profile with the 3740QM, during normal laptop usage yet. The standard BIOS fan profile was making me insane when I used my 3520m, so this was really needed. So the custom fan profile makes the laptop more quiet(by allowing it to hover on higher temperatures), when I do my normal stuff like browsing or YouTube. Received the 3740QM today and installed it with the cooling mods, then set the maximum power limit to 99%. I also ran the winsat tool again, just in case. I ran an OCCT stress test to see if the laptop thermal throttles, TDP throttles, or just plainly crashes when the CPU is pushed to the max over a longer time. I disabled my custom fan profile(HPFanControl) for this test, as I have not yet tested the HPFanControl with OCCT stress test, so I did not want my results to be broken by the use of a possibly bugged homemade fan profile. I ran the test for 3.5h, using RealTemp to measure max CPU core temperatures(it has a fast polling rate), and HWInfo to verify there are no "Windows Hardware Error" counts, the max power usage, if any throttling occurs, and if the CPU frequency is stable at 2.7GHz(99% maximum limit in control center) Results: Doesn't seem to be any throttling at all, and max CPU temperature was 93 degrees at an early point in the test, which tells that the maximum CPU temperature was not climbing with time. CPU frequency seemed pretty stable at 2.7GHz the whole test. The max CPU Package Power was 32.973 W(note the iGPU was not stress tested at all). Max CPU voltage was 0.941 V. Other notes: I tried using Noctua NT-H1 but all of the paste would get pushed out of the sides of the CPU die, leaving the actual space between the die and heatsink without any paste...Arctic silver 5 worked better. I've broken the heatsink of my macbook pro once by using Liquid metal on it. The liquid metal literally started to boil the heatsink, like one of those "science exploding foam" experiments, and split it in half, all while i was standing stumped and frozen by the experience. So I can't recommend using liquid metal directly on the heatsink, as a little particle of liquid metal that somehow gets leaked to other non-copper part of the heatsink starts to melt the whole metal block. It should(hopefully) be fine if you use it between a copper shim and the CPU die, like I did here, as liquid metal and copper seems to work fine except a little color change on the copper with time. If the copper somehow gets unusable then just replace the copper shim. Better and cheaper than having to replace the whole heatsink. I haven't tried throttlestop yet as I have not figured out how I should use it. I haven't tried running a stress test with 100% max CPU limit yet, im pretty sure it will thermal throttle when running stress tests, but stress tests does not directly tell the story to most personal use cases. I'm looking for the temperature spikes during short bursts of high CPU usage, which should happen in most cases for me, like when browsing etc, and im pretty sure the CPU won't thermal throttle on those times. However I do watch a lot of YouTube in higher quality(1440p and 4K), and on an external monitor, so the CPU will be taxed over a longer time in that use case. What is most important for me is if my custom fan profile will silence the annoying fan ramping up/down. Bottom line if it runs quiet then I will keep it at 100%, but if the fan needs to ramp up then I will run it at 99%. I got a pair of Bose QC25 Active Noise Cancelling headphones to replace my old ANC headphones which I use almost all day, which silences any fan noise, even at max RPM, so I might allow the standard BIOS fan profile when I'm using the cans, as the profile is more aggressive. When I take my heaphones off while doing some CPU taxing activity I'll probably have to turn the custom fan profile on. Conclusion: My laptop didn't burn down so im glad, also now I can watch 1440p60FPS high bitrate YouTube videos and Twitch 1080p60FPS streams without dropping multiple frames a second.(Couldn't do it with my dual core 3520m) If theres any other tests anyone want me to do please give me a suggestions
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    Hello I don't want to be rude,but reading a few pages back doesn't hurt and you'll find the answer to your question. Regarding warranty,I doubt that pushing a button for the service cover ,it will void it. Cheers!
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    ********** * This is only for systems with Intel chipsets. * * It still won't work for all of them, but for some it does. * This article is meant as an explanation for interested / advanced users. Since some of the more recent bios mods require the tool described below in order to allow flashing, I decided to share some information about it. Also I really don't like how users get locked out of their own hardware, this is a way to circumvent a couple of the more recent restrictions of certain systems. I hope this will be useful to some of you. If you know other ways to get around the current firmware updating restrictions (per software), please let me know. The problem: With the appearance of Windows 8 and Microsoft's requirement for OEMs to support 'secure boot' in order to get the Win8 certificate for their machines, a lot of the most recent systems (notebooks and desktops) use now firmware which is digitally signed. Since secure boot looses its purpose if firmware updates aren't verified and protected as well, the latest UEFI implementations come with a secure firmware upgrading procedure which makes sure that only properly signed and unmodified images can be flashed. This updating protections is active even if you don't enable secure boot. These two pictures explain the idea behind secure firmware updating very clearly: On the second picture you can see that the system verifies the firmware image even before it loads the drivers required for the flash. For bios modders or people who want to use modified firmware, the consequences of this are severe. It simply isn't possible anymore to flash digitally signed bios which have been modified, there's no way around the signature, at least not with the usual tools. The solution (at least for some systems): The only way to get around those new restrictions is to directly program the firmware flash memory and therefore leave out the verifying of the image. In Intel systems the flash chip is directly wired to the PCH, and it can be accessed by an Intel utility called Flash Programming Tool. It's a very powerful application which supports the most common flash memory chips. The requirement for it to work on a system are the following: - BIOS region of the flash memory must have write permissions - The OEM or BIOS vendor omitted to set an additional flash lock. - You can't flash an encapsulated firmware image, only the pure bios region. You will have access to the BIOS region for obvious reasons, but the second point can only be figured out by trying to flash a BIOS. If the tool comes up with an 'Error 28', download the attached 'prr' utility, as well as the DOS version of the flash tool. Put both on an USB drive which can boot DOS, boot from it and execute the prr.exe, if it manages to remove the protection on your system it will tell you 'ready to flash', in this case go ahead and directly flash with fpt, without rebooting before doing so. If prr can't remove the protection you're most likely out of luck, even though might be ways for certain systems, but the chances are pretty small. In order to flash a BIOS you will need to remove the capsule from the firmware image provided by your system manufacturer. You only want to update the bios. Then flash it by using this command: fptw64 -f FILE -bios (FILE stands for the image you want to flash) ***WARNING*** This tool is only for very advanced users. If you mess up it will override your BIOS without a warning or waiting for you to confirm. This means you can easily brick your system beyond any chance of recovery. You most likely don't need this tool. My BIOS mods which require this application for flashing will always come with a .bat file which will do the flashing for you. Again, for 99.9% of the users there's no need to mess with this. This version of the tool works only for 7 series chipsets. *InBeforeOmgMyYystemWontBootAnymore* The tool provided here by svl7 (prr2.exe and former prr.exe) may not be hosted anywhere outside of Tech|Inferno without the previous approval of the author. FPT_DOS.zip Fptw64.zip prr2.zip
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    Hey guys, This is a thread for sharing what you have learned about configuring a graphics card using Gerald's Y510p Ultrabay Graphics Adapter. It was created to make it easier for new users to find the information they need to successfully configure and use the adapter on their computer. I consulted Gerald before creating this thread. Please feel free to post information, insights and tips below. The Y510P Graphics Adapter What is it? The Y510P Graphics Adapter is a card which will allow you to use a full-length PCIe desktop graphics card with a Lenovo Y410p or Y510p laptop. It plugs into the device's Ultrabay. This is the swappable device bay which is, for instance, used for the second NVIDIA card in Y510P SLI configurations. Please be aware that the Y510P Graphics Card is only compatible with the Y410p and Y510p. It is not compatible, then, with the Y500 and other Lenovo or IBM laptops that feature an Ultrabay. The Y510P Graphics Card was developed by Gerald, a member of this forum. What it needs to run - hardware In addition to the Y410p/Y510p laptop itself, the Y510P Graphics Adapter requires a separate power supply unit (known also as a PSU) to provide the graphics card with electricity. An actual PCIe graphics card is, of course, also required. Please note that only AMD graphics cards will work, seemingly because features of the Y510P embedded controller prevent NVIDIA cards from working as intended. If you are going to use the power supply unit to power the Graphics Adapter and the graphics card plugged into it only, a 450-watt unit should suffice, at least for current graphics cards. While graphics cards manufacturers may advise you to obtain a more powerful PSU, this is because the PSU would normally also be used to power other components, such as the hard drive and CPU. Note that the Radeon RX Vega 64 and R9 Fury X are exceptions to this rule, as they have been shown to draw close to 500 watts of power when they are under a lot of strain. What it needs to run - software Three versions of the Y510P Graphics Adapter exist: * Version 1: this is the experimental version which Gerald originally posted about. * Version 2: this is the version that Gerald sold in 2016 and part of 2017. It requires BIOS version 2.07 and Windows 10 to function. Earlier BIOS versions may also work. * Version 3: this is the version Gerald is selling at the moment of writing. Thanks to a discovery first posted to the forums by user David 'Soap' Washington, it should work with any BIOS version. It may also work Windows 7, 8 and 8.1, in addition to Windows 10. I am currently using this version of the adapter with Windows 10, using BIOS version 3.07. Videos on installing and using the Y510P Graphics Adapter * Installing the adapter: - By Tesla: a general introduction on Version 2 of the adapter and how to install it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KL7muHXsAmI - By ManyStrongWords/Go'Vic Gaming: a video on installing Version 2 of the adapter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pviqwFRDn4 * Gameplay/performance: - By Tesla: using an AMD RX 470 with the adapter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqdDeZ0UCgc - By me: using an AMD Vega 56 with the adapter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVbsib8eHRg&t=25s Other useful videos * Removing the Y510P Ultrabay, by Someone7089: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYcVlaMV0Ig Example of a configuration using the adapter My own configuration consists of the following: * Lenovo Y510P with an Intel Core i7-4700MQ CPU, 16 GB RAM and an Intel SSD hard drive; * iiyama G-Master GB2888UHSU 4K monitor; * Gerald's Ultrabay Graphics Adapter, version 3; * AMD RX Vega 56 graphics card; * Corsair 450W PSU; * OS: Windows 10 Creators' Update. In order to get this configuration to run well on an existing Windows 10 Creators Update install, I had to do the following: * Run the monitor at its native resolution. It appears that the current drivers for this card have difficulty repeatedly switching between resolutions. * Install the appropriate driver for the monitor, instead of the generic one provided by Microsoft. * Disable both the NVIDIA GeForce GT 755M and the Intel HD Graphics 4600 display adapters in the device manager. Note 1: removing the drivers for your Intel and NVIDIA display adapters is unnecessary. It is also likely to be futile as, ultimately, Windows may reinstall the driver even if you disable automatic driver updates. Note 2: an HDMI connection with your monitor should work just fine without you disabling the Intel HD Graphics 4600. A Displayport connection, however, will probably only work as intended if you do disable the Intel display adapter. If you do not do this, Windows will completely duplicate the video output displayed on the internal monitor on the external monitor, including the internal monitor's resolution. Note that this is not the ordinary 'duplicate screens' feature as there is no way to disable it until the Intal graphics adapter is disabled. A Displayport connection is generally preferable since most Freesync-capable monitors do not support Freesync over HDMI. Also, AMD cards usually do not output colour depths over 8bpc over HDMI connections. Note 3: should you find that the backlighting of the internal monitor remains on even though only the external monitor is active, all you have to do is press the FN and F2 keys at the same time. This will switch off the internal monitor. The above instructions may no longer apply. When I installed a fresh copy of the Fall Creators Update, Windows automatically recognised my hardware, monitor included, and I did not have to disable the other graphics adapters.
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    Hello everyone, I currently use my laptop for school/work and I know I could have gotten a better one but I didn't pay for it was given to me from my job. I recently purchased an HP omen accelerator and put a MSI 1050 ti in it. Knowing this set up wasn't going to work. My laptop is a i7 HP ENVY x360 Convertible-15m-bp0xx, it doesn't have any thunderbolt ports, it has a USB Type-C port with HP Sleep and Charge. I provided the picture, look at my ignorance. Please help. Is there another way around this, I feel like intel could have came up with a substitute by now.
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    Hi guys I soldered m.2 slot as my y510p didn't have one. I installed ssd drive but my bios and system does not see it. Is it only bios (I have stock rev. 3.07 locked) related issue, or could it by something else I need to do to get my ssd to work?
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    Hi I found which one I exactly bought. It was this one: http://www.tme.eu/pl/details/123a-32ba0-r01/zlacza-do-kart/attend/# Cheers!
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    Since I started to use the Ultrabay eGPU setup(Thanks to Gerald) with the RX 470. I noticed a CPU bottleneck in some games that need some CPU horsepower (Witcher 3, Watchdogs 2, GTA V ...etc). So the first thing I did was to replace the thermal paste and clean the laptop from the inside. I used Arctic MX-4 TP and results were impressive(I got rid of instant thermal throttle of the cheap TP that I had before). However, I was not satisfied because I still can not maintain a constant 3.4 Ghz on all cores without hitting 99c(aka thermal throttle). Next I figured what is the highest clock I can get my cpu to on a single core, 2 cores, 3 cores and 4 cores while keeping temperatures within the acceptable range and set up a custom OC profile(using Throttle stop) with the following settings: * -60mV on the core offset voltage. * Difference multiplier ratios for different core usage as shown in the picture below. The achieved temperatures are really nice hovering in 75-85(4 cores @2.8 Ghz), ~65(single core @3.5Ghz) in CPU intensive games. if a game uses single core, then the CPU will run at 3.5 GHz, if four cores then it will run at a 2.8 Ghz. that way I kept both temperatures and fan noise level in check. However, I'm still looking for a better cooling solution that will allow me to run the CPU at 3.4-3.5 Ghz all the time. Here are couple of ideas that came to my mind: 1- attach another cooler to the heat pipes that are exposed when removing the bottom cover of the laptop (AIO water cooler or air cooler; the AIO is an expensive option but will be easier to mount). 2- same as above but using a custom copper pipes from the exposed heat pipes of the laptop to an external CPU cooler. in other words external heat pipes to a secondary external heatsink. 3- strip the laptops motherboard and mount a water cooler (no idea how to do so, thermal glue or custom bracket?). 4-Give me your idea. I need your help to help me decide which path to go and if there is a better way to do it. I really wanna get the max performance out of my 4700MQ.
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    Hi guys. It took me a while but I managed to get the thing working. Under the connector there are 8 smd parts that need to be installed. Four of them are capacitors for AC coupling sata singals, value of the capacitors are 10nF, the other four are jumpers. I've got only picture of capacitors installed by me, I made jumpers out of thin single core copper wire. Here are some pictures:
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    Hi! edit: merged with Conscriptvirus's post so it's easier to follow: This modification is very dangerous, can lead to broken chips. Don't say i didn't warned you... edit: he's right, it is easy Lenovo did a sloppy job with cooler, too much thermal paste, weak springs, overheating and throttling machines... First of all, disassemble the machine. Then do a repaste, with bare minimum amount of thermal paste, and remove cooler again, check thermal paste spread. Remove screws from cooler, by removing little plastik washers, keeping the screws to fall out. My gpu heatsink was not paralllel to motherboard, so the corner without screw was slightly bended upwards. Twist the gpu heatsink, so that corner is pushing gap pad a little bit harder. Be very gentle, you dont want to broke your heatsink. You can check level by putting your heatsink on flat surface with gpu screws removed, cpu screws stays in place for now. Then place a 0,5mm spacer under the spring like seen on the following pictures These are screw number 4 and 5. Screw number 6 is using a weak spring, so use double spacer, or change it to a stronger spring: Put back plastik spacer, so screw stay in place. Do the same process with cpu heatsink. You can do this to ultrabay as well, but take extra caution, since there is no backplate, and it can lead to warped/broken board. Lastly change the gap pad over cpu vrm area, because it is too tick, I used 0,5mm piece: Aaand it's done! Put back heatsink, use as little amount of thermal paste as possible, and enjoy 10-15+ lower temperatures. Spacers was lying around, i had the spring from some old heatsink, so dont have exact types and diameters, but Conscriptvirus did the mod also, his mod is better to look at, spacer perfectly fit into heatsink holes edit: I also did cpu mod, ended up adding a washer to screw 6, despite of changed spring, gained 1C-3C. I can run XTU stress test under 85C with -95mV and 3,4Ghz 4core. GPU and CPU idle is under 50, without notebook stand with fans. Thanks to Conscriptvirus for his effort and pictures. If it worth to be sticky, Mods, please make it one. Regards
  24. 1 like
    try this.. move the backup file folder to C drive root and kept as B (for easy ref) right click on start menu and start the command prompt (Admin) change the directory using cd c:/B type xxxx.bat and enter it will shows the script process either pass or error message atleast enough to debug. this will help you to run the commands (with elevated privileges) which are failed to run as Administrator option.
  25. 1 like
  26. 1 like

    Version 1.0.0

    167 downloads

    Alienware M17x R3 A12 unlocked BIOS with tweaks on SATA settings Files contained in this archive: AtpTimerInfo.dll Ding.wav FWUpdLcl.exe InsydeFlashx64.exe iscflashx64.dll iscflashx64.sys PAR00MEC.fd platform.ini READ ME.txt xerces-c_2_7.dll To learn more about how to use the files in this archive, please visit the thread below: Donation link In case you want to buy me a beer Thanks and cheers!

    Free

  27. 1 like
    Pls email me to discuss. Email address is on first post of this thread.
  28. 1 like

    Version 1.0.0

    22 downloads

    The 'Kepler' GPUs from Nvidia perform really well, even at increased clocks speeds they stay quite cool - a perfect behavior when it comes to overclocking and improving the performance. Unfortunately the mobile GPUs suffer from an artificial +135MHz core overclocking limit, so you can't go higher by using tools like Nvidia Inspector and similar. The modified VBIOS files listed here have this limit unlocked, some have increased stock clocks or tweaked voltages. Instructions: I recommend flashing under DOS using nvflash Donation link In case you want to buy me a beer Thanks and cheers!

    Free

  29. 1 like
    as far as i know USB 2.0 can get u a max of 2.5 watt (5V, 0.5 Ampere) and USB 3.0 will deliver u a max of 4.5 watt! (5V 0.9A). you shouldnt go over those limits. i also have a cooler master but the fans there suck ass. only thing i noticed is that they blow more dust into the laptop.. you can try out IC Diamond thermal compound. only thing i can say it.. it is REALLY REALLY GOOD! in idle my GPUs are running about 50°C and the max temperature i had was about 82°C (alienware m18x r2; 980m SLI)
  30. 1 like
    Hi, So I was reading the Embedded Controller for changes when the fan was full speed using your utility. As you can see it full speed the dword = 002F0000 and idle = 00130000 or less.How do you modify the DWORD as I change it but it does not save.
  31. 1 like
    The dGPU ports are fully muxed to the iGPU and it is physically not connected to the display, nothing we can do about that... EDIT: Though the system counts as muxless, there are no switches to alter switching behavior via BIOS. Only thing you can do with the Mod is to force the dGPU to stay enabled or disabled instead to auto-switch.
  32. 1 like
    Get a TL866CS then reflash that with a little hack to TL866A to do inline programming. Get a set with a 150mil (GPU) & 200mil (ME/BIOS) SOIC8 sockets. Along order a SOIC test cable: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.<wbr>html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.<wbr>l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.Xsoic+test+<wbr>clip&_nkw=soic+test+clip&_<wbr>sacat=0&_from=R40 And a 6 pin connector for the CS>A model conversion: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pcs-KF2510-6P-Connector-Kits-2-54mm-Pin-Header-Terminal-Housing-Right-Angle-/150828738649?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item231e17e859 On P1-HM the ME Firmware Chip is next to the USB 3 ports on the top, the BIOS is next to the RAM/HDD at the bottom. On my systems I have sockets on the chips: http://www.darkwire.com.au/html/spi_flash_sockets.html Once a socket is on there you can exchange the chip through the SSD cover at the bottom, so no more disassembling.
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