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[HARDWARE MOD] W110ER water cooling


E1Dor4do

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Hi there!

I have overlooked a lot of laptop cooling mods.

Normally the main problem is limitation of space. But all our Clevo laptops have one BIG advantage over other laptops: we have a lot of free space inside.

For example: my W110ER has 2 size bigger space than it should be for harddrive and huge space between backcover and mainboard. It is not bad especially for airflow. But it is also great for my project.

So my idea is simple as it can be:

1) change hdd/ssd for msata hdd (as in http://forum.techinferno.com/clevo/3147-%5Bhardware-mod%5D-w110er-12-1-screen-cooling.html);

2) for all the remaning free space put an water reservoir (cut from plexiglas);

3) change CPU, GPU and PCH radiators to somthing like this one:

post-33977-14494999684495_thumb.jpg

They are small and have input-output on their side, not on the top;

4) somehow connect waterflow to original clevo radiator with fan system (I think of cutting original heattubes and connecting to them)

Waterflow can be one of wollowing 3 tipes:

1) successively: reservoir - pump - CPU - GPU - PCH - radiator - reservoir.

PCH must be last one after CPU and GPU becouse it heats more.

2) reservoir - pump - CPU - GPU - radiator - reservoir

....................................\ --- PCH --- /

3) reservoir - pump - CPU - radiator - reservoir

..................................|- GPU-|

...................................\- PCH-/

Remaning problems:

1) I haven't found such little pump yet, but I think it is not such problem to find them;

2) Battery life. all-time active pump will eat a lot of battary. I still haven't counted yet, but I think we will get -1 hour battery life.

So, what do you think about this idea. Worth it? Anyone has experience in watercooling?

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OMG

I've just found this article ( How Much Water Cooling Systems Can Be Downsized for Notebook PCs? Hitachi Answers - Nikkei Technology Online ) dated back to 2007.

This. Is. Beautiful.

post-33977-14494999684932_thumb.jpg

this is headplate and pump. In one piece. And powerful enough.

Do somebody know where to buy one of this?

If not. I've also found this one ( HP200S Mini Submersible Inline Centrifugal Micro Water Pump 3 to 4 5 VDC 11 GPH | eBay ):

post-33977-14494999685065_thumb.jpg

But this pump costs 150$ one... to expencieve for me.

If somebody is ready to be my sponsor - I will be one of the happiest man on the planet :)

If no... Well, I'm still searching for small good pump for my project.

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Check the online hobby stores.

Tower hobbies just to name one. Rc model airplanes and cars use these kind of things all the time. As a matter a fact I'm willing to bet that's a fuel pump for an rc plane in the above picture. If it's not who ever is selling them probably got them from hobbystore to begin with . You should be able to get above pump a lot cheaper than 150 .

Google rc plane onboard electric fuel pump.

just an idea . Can't gurranty anything.[emoji12]

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Guys, some news from physics to you...

Heat dissipation is done only by radiator by blowing it away with fan. No matter how it is brought to it.

I mean that before and after modding CPU, GPU and PCH will produce the same amount of heat. And the same radiator will dissipate it into air.

The will be no profit at all without modifying radiator to make it dissipate more heat at the same time.

So I am very sad to conclude that this project is useless. No matter how you will bring the heat to radiator: with water or heat tubes. The performance of cooling system won't change.

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by ur argument any water cooking solution would be utterly useless and wouldnt bring any temp advantages to the table, that is just plain wrong though ;)

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Nope. Water cooling gives possibility to attach huge radiator and to dissipate heat on it. It is like you attach 240mm radiator directly to CPU.

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the heat transfer is mediated by water though, which in itself has a much larger capacity to take on and transfer heat than air. thus, u can transfer and store way more heat in the fluid itself and draw it away from the components until it reaches the radiator. id still expect quite a significant temp improvement even if the radiator in the water cooling has the same heat capacity / transfer capability as in the previous air cooling solution.

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I think if you just use the existing heatpipes that are already present on the gpu and cpu and loop them through a small water pump it would cool better than it does in its current state. Just theory though.

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I think if you just use the existing heatpipes that are already present on the gpu and cpu and loop them through a small water pump it would cool better than it does in its current state. Just theory though.

I am not sure if that time would be enough to cool down water in tubes. I think I must modify somehow waterflow inside radiator to make it stay there a little bit longer.

P.S. does someone know where to buy (better used) radiator + heat pipe from W110ER?

P.S.S. still looking for pump. Fuel pumps from RC models does not provide sufficient waterflow (6 lph vs 600 lph needed) and pressure. Need at least about 100 lph.

P.S.S.S Are there parts for W110ER in this world and on this planet? Except screens, coolers and keyboards I haven't found nothing!

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I think, this project can work fine. I tried some simpler cooling improofments and post the resultes on my homepage: mitjastachowiak.de/?/sonstiges/laptopbau/verbesserungderkuehlung.html (ok, it's in German...). I think, the heatpipes need a lot of space and a real fluid cooling can bring a lot of improofments. For example, one can use the laptop's case for cooling...

I will try to add some passive cooling to my P150EM by building a connection of massive copper and thermal pads between the heatsinks and the lower case. Hope, this will be enough, to cool the laptop with absolutely no fan noise on idle.

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Guys, got some really mad idea.

Let's go madness!

post-33977-1449499975596_thumb.jpg

I've told ya, that my notebook has enough space for 2 x 2.5"harddrives. So why not to use some old 2.5" harddrive as reservoir and use it motor as pump? Only need to find some blades for it. Something like this, but with more inner-space (to place motor in there) and thinner

post-33977-14494999756088_thumb.jpg

So I give up searching for small pump and now searching for dead 2.5" harddrive with working motor.

Problems:

1) separate motor from water (don't think it is waterproof)

2) make everything hermetic in case of leaks. For that I am going to use vacuum-machines that they use to save cheese in (Hey, I live in Italy, there are plenty of cheese and this machines here :) )

UPDATE:

I've found this forum thread: http://forums.overclockers.ru/viewtopic.php?t=331512. There are also 3d models for 3d printers to stamp. But they are only for 3.5" harddrives. Don't think it would be very hard to transform them in 2.5".

P.S. original idea, but with 3.5" hardrive:

http://www.casemods.ru/section17/item588/ (yep, russian)

P.S.S. still searching for radiator for W110ER. halp plz!

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Why not use transformator oil instead of water?

With oil, there will be no problem with electical conductivity and the thermal capacity of some oils is near of the water one's.

But I think, to use a hard drive's motor is a bad idea. This motors are optimized for high rotations and low resistance. With water or oil in the hard drive, the motor will spin very slow and may shortcut the powersuply and the mainboard. You need a real pump or a compressor. And of course a current controller.

There sould be suitable devices in the PC's water cooling assortment.

I'd try to replace the laptop's fans and heatpipes completely with the fluid cooling. You can use the fan's curcuit points to measure the device's temperatures indirectly. Then you need a circuit, that takes it's power directly from the mainboard's power input/battery and transforms the measured (virtual) fan currents into the new pump and fan currents.

I can help you with the current controller circuits.

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Why not use transformator oil instead of water?

With oil, there will be no problem with electical conductivity and the thermal capacity of some oils is near of the water one's.

But I think, to use a hard drive's motor is a bad idea. This motors are optimized for high rotations and low resistance. With water or oil in the hard drive, the motor will spin very slow and may shortcut the powersuply and the mainboard. You need a real pump or a compressor. And of course a current controller.

There sould be suitable devices in the PC's water cooling assortment.

I'd try to replace the laptop's fans and heatpipes completely with the fluid cooling. You can use the fan's curcuit points to measure the device's temperatures indirectly. Then you need a circuit, that takes it's power directly from the mainboard's power input/battery and transforms the measured (virtual) fan currents into the new pump and fan currents.

I can help you with the current controller circuits.

I've seen the results of HDD pump. They approach 7.5 meters of water level at about 800 litres per hour (donno how to transform it in PSY, but usual aquarium water pump gives about 1 meter at 600 litres). So I don't think pressure will be a problem.

Also they say that HDD motors working for their pump more than 3 years already! Of Course I will secure power supply to motor with some kind of diodes and fuses. Also I will need a driver to make it rotate, because they are step motors.

I don't like the idea of replacing fans. Also you can't simply remove them - you need something to cool down water in system.

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Here I am.

I have received HDD and disassembled it.

I was nearly crying when I was doing this - I hate destroy technics, especially high-precision technics.

So. Good things:

It is seems to be hermetic. There is a rubber isolation on back side of cover. Also it has deep space on the one of the sides. I am going to make inlet and outlet fittings there. Also rotor with engine seems to be hermetic. If not so, at least there are no space between rotor and bottom cover. So water surface tension won't let water to get to engine. I hope so :)

Bad things: I was hoping there will be more space between rotor and top-cover. But there is only approximately 1 mm - 1.5 mm.

Problem is: in centrifugal pump low pressure area is right above rotor and inlet must be in there.

I have spent a little time for drawings. Here's my plan of work:

post-33977-14494999827708_thumb.jpg

post-33977-14494999826534_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys, I am stil here, do not forget about me!

I have ordered CPU/GPU waterblock form aliexpress. It is the only one which is going to fit. It has 8mm thikness.

Wholesale Product Snapshot Product name is

As soon as it arrives I am going back to work (aprox in 4-5 days).

Also I am close to finish HDD water pump. I think it will be ready in 4-5 days.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys!

I have just received waterblocks! WOO-HOO!!!

I will update this post tomorrow with some photos and my working plains.

But I must inform all, who are waiting for result: I am having some overloading in my university and I will not be able to work with project for next 1-2 weeks :(

Be patient!

Stay in touch!

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I'm unfortunately going to have to go with the previous pessimistic people, and say that you probably won't see too great of an improvement of cooling.

The way heat pipes work inside of your laptop are EXTREMELY efficient.

To quote some numbers from wikipedia...

The effective thermal conductivity varies with heat pipe length, and can approach 100 kW/(m⋅K) for long heat pipes, in comparison with approximately 0.4 kW/(m⋅K) for copper.

While water has a thermal conductivity of 0.58 W/m·K.

Now.... that being said, that doesn't mean you should have to scrap your entire idea.

Water has an extremely high thermal CAPACITY, it just doesn't transfer heat very well in comparison to heat pipes. There's a reason why heat pipes aren't filled with water after all!

What you might want to try to do is to figure out some method to make it so you still use heat pipes, but then have the heat pipe dump it's heat into a water reservoir to hold it.

I don't know how well it would work for long gaming sessions, though and that's what would primarily worry me.

Just my thoughts.

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I'm unfortunately going to have to go with the previous pessimistic people, and say that you probably won't see too great of an improvement of cooling.

The way heat pipes work inside of your laptop are EXTREMELY efficient.

To quote some numbers from wikipedia...

The effective thermal conductivity varies with heat pipe length, and can approach 100 kW/(m⋅K) for long heat pipes, in comparison with approximately 0.4 kW/(m⋅K) for copper.

While water has a thermal conductivity of 0.58 W/m·K.

Now.... that being said, that doesn't mean you should have to scrap your entire idea.

Water has an extremely high thermal CAPACITY, it just doesn't transfer heat very well in comparison to heat pipes. There's a reason why heat pipes aren't filled with water after all!

What you might want to try to do is to figure out some method to make it so you still use heat pipes, but then have the heat pipe dump it's heat into a water reservoir to hold it.

I don't know how well it would work for long gaming sessions, though and that's what would primarily worry me.

Just my thoughts.

Man, you are just thinking what I am thinking.

Seriously, I was planning to place water blocks between CPU (GPU) and original heatpipes. But I haven't yet done with measurements and I don't know if there will be enough free space. That's why I haven't wrote about this idea at all.

As I've wrote at the very beginning: I want to make as few undone changes as possible. That's why I was just thinking about using original heat tubes with water cooling at the same time.

But I need more time for measurements and testing. And as I've sad before: I am having free time problems for next 2 weeks. I hope I will get back to project ASAP.

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