Jump to content

E1Dor4do

Registered User
  • Posts

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by E1Dor4do

  1. Hi! Any chances getting those BIOS links alive? Thanks!
  2. Good news: I have found 5mm PVC tubes suitable for water block fittings (took them from my brother - surgeon)
  3. Man, you are just thinking what I am thinking. Seriously, I was planning to place water blocks between CPU (GPU) and original heatpipes. But I haven't yet done with measurements and I don't know if there will be enough free space. That's why I haven't wrote about this idea at all. As I've wrote at the very beginning: I want to make as few undone changes as possible. That's why I was just thinking about using original heat tubes with water cooling at the same time. But I need more time for measurements and testing. And as I've sad before: I am having free time problems for next 2 weeks. I hope I will get back to project ASAP.
  4. Hi guys! I have just received waterblocks! WOO-HOO!!! I will update this post tomorrow with some photos and my working plains. But I must inform all, who are waiting for result: I am having some overloading in my university and I will not be able to work with project for next 1-2 weeks Be patient! Stay in touch!
  5. Guys, I am stil here, do not forget about me! I have ordered CPU/GPU waterblock form aliexpress. It is the only one which is going to fit. It has 8mm thikness. Wholesale Product Snapshot Product name is As soon as it arrives I am going back to work (aprox in 4-5 days). Also I am close to finish HDD water pump. I think it will be ready in 4-5 days.
  6. Here I am. I have received HDD and disassembled it. I was nearly crying when I was doing this - I hate destroy technics, especially high-precision technics. So. Good things: It is seems to be hermetic. There is a rubber isolation on back side of cover. Also it has deep space on the one of the sides. I am going to make inlet and outlet fittings there. Also rotor with engine seems to be hermetic. If not so, at least there are no space between rotor and bottom cover. So water surface tension won't let water to get to engine. I hope so Bad things: I was hoping there will be more space between rotor and top-cover. But there is only approximately 1 mm - 1.5 mm. Problem is: in centrifugal pump low pressure area is right above rotor and inlet must be in there. I have spent a little time for drawings. Here's my plan of work:
  7. So it was designed to have 2 m-sata ports but for some reason it doesn't have second one mounted with some components? Nice =) Maybe W110ER could be upgraded also?) UPDATE: I have overlooked schema for W110ER ICH. It has 6 SATA input and only one of them assembled. As you can see on page 69 service manual for W110ER only SATA 1 is active. I am afraid that they are deep in the middle of this BGA chip so you can't access them without disassembling ICH from MB. Prema, what do you think? Is it possible to connect to them by making a copy of existing SATA? Possible but almost impossible
  8. I've seen the results of HDD pump. They approach 7.5 meters of water level at about 800 litres per hour (donno how to transform it in PSY, but usual aquarium water pump gives about 1 meter at 600 litres). So I don't think pressure will be a problem. Also they say that HDD motors working for their pump more than 3 years already! Of Course I will secure power supply to motor with some kind of diodes and fuses. Also I will need a driver to make it rotate, because they are step motors. I don't like the idea of replacing fans. Also you can't simply remove them - you need something to cool down water in system.
  9. Guys, got some really mad idea. Let's go madness! I've told ya, that my notebook has enough space for 2 x 2.5"harddrives. So why not to use some old 2.5" harddrive as reservoir and use it motor as pump? Only need to find some blades for it. Something like this, but with more inner-space (to place motor in there) and thinner So I give up searching for small pump and now searching for dead 2.5" harddrive with working motor. Problems: 1) separate motor from water (don't think it is waterproof) 2) make everything hermetic in case of leaks. For that I am going to use vacuum-machines that they use to save cheese in (Hey, I live in Italy, there are plenty of cheese and this machines here ) UPDATE: I've found this forum thread: http://forums.overclockers.ru/viewtopic.php?t=331512. There are also 3d models for 3d printers to stamp. But they are only for 3.5" harddrives. Don't think it would be very hard to transform them in 2.5". P.S. original idea, but with 3.5" hardrive: http://www.casemods.ru/section17/item588/ (yep, russian) P.S.S. still searching for radiator for W110ER. halp plz!
  10. I am not sure if that time would be enough to cool down water in tubes. I think I must modify somehow waterflow inside radiator to make it stay there a little bit longer. P.S. does someone know where to buy (better used) radiator + heat pipe from W110ER? P.S.S. still looking for pump. Fuel pumps from RC models does not provide sufficient waterflow (6 lph vs 600 lph needed) and pressure. Need at least about 100 lph. P.S.S.S Are there parts for W110ER in this world and on this planet? Except screens, coolers and keyboards I haven't found nothing!
  11. Nope. Water cooling gives possibility to attach huge radiator and to dissipate heat on it. It is like you attach 240mm radiator directly to CPU.
  12. Guys, some news from physics to you... Heat dissipation is done only by radiator by blowing it away with fan. No matter how it is brought to it. I mean that before and after modding CPU, GPU and PCH will produce the same amount of heat. And the same radiator will dissipate it into air. The will be no profit at all without modifying radiator to make it dissipate more heat at the same time. So I am very sad to conclude that this project is useless. No matter how you will bring the heat to radiator: with water or heat tubes. The performance of cooling system won't change.
  13. You are welcome Well, I don't think that second fan for PCH is a good idea in my case. If it will be spliced into main fan wiring then it would be active only when main fan is active i.e. all other time PCH will remain without cooling. And after all, all small fans are very noisy. I have overlooked w230st mainboard photos. I think in your case it would be better to place small fan on PCH indeed because radiator is to far away from it.
  14. OMG I've just found this article ( How Much Water Cooling Systems Can Be Downsized for Notebook PCs? Hitachi Answers - Nikkei Technology Online ) dated back to 2007. This. Is. Beautiful. this is headplate and pump. In one piece. And powerful enough. Do somebody know where to buy one of this? If not. I've also found this one ( HP200S Mini Submersible Inline Centrifugal Micro Water Pump 3 to 4 5 VDC 11 GPH | eBay ): But this pump costs 150$ one... to expencieve for me. If somebody is ready to be my sponsor - I will be one of the happiest man on the planet If no... Well, I'm still searching for small good pump for my project.
  15. reserved (just in case I will do it and I'll need more space)
  16. Hi there! I have overlooked a lot of laptop cooling mods. Normally the main problem is limitation of space. But all our Clevo laptops have one BIG advantage over other laptops: we have a lot of free space inside. For example: my W110ER has 2 size bigger space than it should be for harddrive and huge space between backcover and mainboard. It is not bad especially for airflow. But it is also great for my project. So my idea is simple as it can be: 1) change hdd/ssd for msata hdd (as in http://forum.techinferno.com/clevo/3147-%5Bhardware-mod%5D-w110er-12-1-screen-cooling.html); 2) for all the remaning free space put an water reservoir (cut from plexiglas); 3) change CPU, GPU and PCH radiators to somthing like this one: They are small and have input-output on their side, not on the top; 4) somehow connect waterflow to original clevo radiator with fan system (I think of cutting original heattubes and connecting to them) Waterflow can be one of wollowing 3 tipes: 1) successively: reservoir - pump - CPU - GPU - PCH - radiator - reservoir. PCH must be last one after CPU and GPU becouse it heats more. 2) reservoir - pump - CPU - GPU - radiator - reservoir ....................................\ --- PCH --- / 3) reservoir - pump - CPU - radiator - reservoir ..................................|- GPU-| ...................................\- PCH-/ Remaning problems: 1) I haven't found such little pump yet, but I think it is not such problem to find them; 2) Battery life. all-time active pump will eat a lot of battary. I still haven't counted yet, but I think we will get -1 hour battery life. So, what do you think about this idea. Worth it? Anyone has experience in watercooling?
  17. My friend, I have exactly the opposite problem. I want to make my fan work all the time, so my left hand won't stay on a mini-heatdesk anymore I haven't found anything wrong with W-series. I have W110ER and I am pretty satisfied with it. My fan is working as it should be (I control temperature via Aida64). Below 60 C it doesnt work. Between 60 C and 70 C it works at about 10-20%. Between 70 C and 80 C it works at about 50%. I have never seen it working at 100% except "fn+1" shortcut. And I have never seen my CPU or GPU temp more than 80 C. Maybe this steps in fun speed are "randomness" you are talking about. Try to control temp of CPU and GPU. P.S. The REALLY annoying thing in my W110ER is that I can't control fan speed via OS. PCH does not provide this info to the OS. I have "GPU fan speed" sensor but it always 0.
  18. Hi Prema! I am sorry, maybe this is stupid question, but nevertheless: is it possible to set fan RPM speed at custom temperature? Let`s say: a new bios menu with 0-10%-20%-...-100% RPM fun speed with number or switch input where you can input custom CPU/GPU temp?
  19. Hi, Prema! Please add my post about PCH cooling in W110ER form here: http://forum.techinferno.com/clevo/9300-%5Bhardware-mod%5D-w110er-light-sb-cooling.html. I hope it would be usefull to someone.
  20. Hi! I was really impressed by Prema's cooling mod and I've decided to make something with PCH in my XMG A102 (Clevo W110ER with i7 3632QM) because it was getting so much that I couldn't hold a finger on it more than 2-3 sec. (there is no thermal sensor in there, so I couldn't measure it) If you are interested only in result please look the second spoiler only. If you are interested in creation process - take a look at the first one also. Creating process: The main idea of my mod is: there must be as few as possible irreversible changes made to notebook. So on the nearest electronic market I've found used heatpipe with radiator from very old HP notebook. Here is the model, if you will want to buy it in internet: SPS: 379799-001. It has perfect size but the platform is on the opposite side and the radiator is too large to place it without cutting. First I wanted to do everything like Prema: attach new heatpipe to Clevo's radiator. But if you will look inside cooler you will see a lot of free void space in there. So I decided to place the new heatpipe with its own radiator right in there between cooler itself and the original radiator so the airflow would blow both radiators. So the first problem was to setup the platform on the opposite side of the heatpipe. I started with cutting on unnecessary parts of the platform because it was to big. After cutting I've decided platform from the heat pipe with heating them and with some force. Here you can see the idea of placing them inside Also I've controlled that no one element would be hurt on the motherboard (here you can see capacitors close to heatpipe) but only plastic. The new heatpipe would be between case and cardreader. Next I had to find a way to cut the radiator so it could feet between cooler and original radiator. After some cups of coffee and about an hour of measurement I decided that the best way to do it is to take off the radiator, reassembly it in a very strange way put it back and cut. Fixed with a thermal scotch and putted on soldering tin wire. After - putted in oven 200 C for 5 min. Cook until ready. After cooking I've started to cut off unnecessary parts. In the end I used the same fixed planks to fix heat pipe to platform, put soldering tin between them and cooked it again to fix them. And here we go. Putted on thermal pad, fixed with notebook case and thermal scotch. Result: After a couple of heavy benchmark tests during the benchmark (no additional cooling). USB ports are all active for heavy copping (including USB 3.0 and cardreader, so SB is busy too): I would like to say many thanks to Prema for his example of using heatpipes. Stay in touch! I am going to do some more mods with my new toy in couple of months. P.S. If you will be really interested in doing something like this yourself, feel free to ask me for help and assistance.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.