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Fan Mod Guide and Performance results.


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I truly hope lenovo sees this and notes the CONSIDERABLE performance increases and take into consideration the lifespan of the laptops going up drastically. And as a result give us access to the fan speeds via software.

Many people who have purchased the Lenovo Y510P have noted its absolute lack of fan control abilities the below is half guide/half performance report. This is to show what the Y510P is capable of if it were to have unlocked fan controls which are currently impossible to access. The below is a fairly simple hardware mod that involves removing one wire from the PWM controller on the motherboard. ((difficulty 4/10)) !NO SOLDERING!

----------- Beginning The Fan Mod ----------------- The Fan will ALWAYS run at 100% it cannot be changed unless you reattach the wire. While cooler temperatures are always good this does sacrifice battery life. This is all likelyhood voids your warranty use at your own risk. The fan will be significantly louder than normal and will likely be very noticeable.

You will need.

  • 1x Phillips Head screwdriver (that fits the Y510P screws)
  • 1x VERY SMALL flathead screwdriver
  • A dish to keep the screws
  • The assumption that you have some technical skills.

  • Remove the battery and charger
  • Carefully remove the bottom cover of the laptop
  • Remove the sticker to the right of the fan to access the area with the controller
  • Using the small flathead screwdriver lift up on small block at the end of the cable
  • carefully use the small screw driver to lift one of the clips that holds the BROWN wire
  • carefully and gently remove the brown wire from its casing (any more than a nudge is too much)
  • securely plug the block back where it came from following the natural curves of the cable.
  • Place the brown wire in a place where it will not create a circuit (behind the other larger connector)
  • * for added security you can tape the end of the cable to assure no accidental connections.
  • Without closing the bottom power on the laptop and give it 10 seconds if the fans do not turn on shut the laptop down
  • assure all of your connections are correct and reseat the plug to assure contact.

Final Result: [URL]http://i.imgur.com/pWwS6FS.jpg[/URL] After the cable is removed: [URL]http://i.imgur.com/4w8F3L6.jpg[/URL] Showing the plug to remove: [URL]http://i.imgur.com/pWwS6FS.jpg[/URL] -----------------------------------------------------------



Y510P Temps & Preformance. No Fan Mod Fan Mod OC Fan Mod OC No Fan Mod Important Notes Below.
Temps Taken in °F
Idle Temperature - CPU 95 °F 91 °F 91 °F 95 °F CPU was NOT Overclocked.
All tests lasted 10:00 (unless otherwise stated)
Prime 95. All tests are conducted at 1366*768
Small FFT's 198°F 165°F 165°F 198°F V-Sync is off unless otherwise stated.
Large FFT's 198°F 165°F 165°F 198°F * indicates that exact values could/was not recorded
Blend 198°F 165°F 165°F 198°F Unigine Heaven Benchmark lasts the default time period.
Unigine Heaven Benchmark.
DX11 - Ultra Quality 192°F 167°F 178°F ******************************
Tessellation: Extreme 17.5 FPS 18.2 FPS 21.2 FPS *** Thermal Shutdown *** Overclocking Settings.
Anti-Aliasing: 8x Score: 420* Score: 459 Score: 512* ****************************** Core Clock (MHz) +135
Memory Clock (MHz) +500
DX11 - Medium Quality 190°F 167°F 178°F
Tessellation: Medium 30.1 FPS 35.5 FPS 40.2 FPS ** Tests ended for safety**
Anti-Aliasing: 4x Score: 795* Score: 895 Score: 1013 Specs.
Intel Core i7 - 4700 MQ - 2.4Ghz /w 3.4Ghz Turbo
Battlefield 3 - Ultra Preset 193°F 168°F 180°F ** Tests ended for safety** 8 GB - 1600mhz Memory
64 Player - Operation Firestorm 31 FPS 48 FPS* 66 FPS 1tb - 5400rpm hdd
1366x768 Screen.
Crysis 3 - Scene 1 Mission 1 193°F 168°F 185°F ** Tests ended for safety** Nvidia 755m - Drivers July 2014
Maximum Settings 14 FPS 24 FPS 29 FPS 130w Charger (battery removed)

*Note: The massive performance difference on bf3 is worth noting and may contain a data flaw, please accept the finding with a grain of salt.
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Someone already did create a loop however the loop was at best 5% successful and caused the fan to ramp up to full speed go for 10 seconds then drop to 0 RPM which bothered me immensely. Its far better to have the fan always run at full speed than it is to hear it constantly ramp up and down and have the brief period of no air movement.

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Nice work. Simply cutting a wire often doesn't work on fans, so people looking to try this on other laptops should make sure they know how to reconnect the wire before trying. I vote for the switch idea.

Also seeing Fahrenheit is weird for PC temps, and yes I am American.

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How would I go about implementing the switch idea? Got no experience with this sort of thing. I would need to do it on both my main fan and the fan for my Ultrabay GPU. It would be the brown wire for the second GPU too, right?

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Why not create a macro on the dust removal tool to loop whilst playing games?

Yeah someone already wrote a script for this: Y510p Ultimate Cooling Mods Revealed...Unshroud yo... - Lenovo Community

It doesn't work. The laptop actually heats up more because of the long delay between fan cycles since it's 9 seconds @ 100%, 2 seconds idle, and so on. Constant fan at a lower RPM is actually a few degrees C cooler in my testing. I'd imagine constant full-blast would be even better.

I've already cut my bottom cover per the mod described in the linked thread, so my second GPU isn't hitting mid-90's and throttling any more. But it still goes up to almost 90C in PlanetSide 2 because of how damn hot it is here in California right now and I'd like to lower it even more by maxing out the fan speed.

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  • 1 month later...
Well then, I guess I could try this by wiring up a switch of some sort. I'm just trying to think where the best place to put it would be. I don't really want to create any unsightly holes in my laptop's case just for this.

You can also try http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/7358-ideafan-y510p.htm might be enough to start with to imagine if its worth introducing the switch and if it would help you in your case.

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You can also try http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/7358-ideafan-y510p.htm might be enough to start with to imagine if its worth introducing the switch and if it would help you in your case.

I tried it and it works pretty well. I think I'll use that program instead, because I don't really want to run the risk of ruining my main computer. I need this thing to last at least 3 years, so going in and removing wires probably isn't the best idea.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 3 weeks later...

i think this would damage the fan itself faster. better solution is using software ideafan, or you can buy cooling pad and overvolt the cooling pad. pc case fan also worth to try if you have 12V supply, they give more airflow than cooling pad.

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