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Khenglish last won the day on March 4

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About Khenglish

  • Birthday 04/11/1989

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    student at RPI

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  1. Those caps are completely unnecessary. You can throw them in the trash and forget about them. They insignificantly reduce voltage ripple on the 12V line and you have way more than you need. A laptop GPU will have around 4 15 uF caps, and you still have 6 330 uF caps for the same purpose. I am more concerned about what damage from bending happened to the card due to the extreme force required to rip the heatsink in half. That should require well over 100 pounds of force, and very likely destroyed the card.
  2. Checksum must be correct or card will not work. For moisture removal heat the core to 100C for at least 5 hours. The old chip is fine because heat from regular use will remove moisture.
  3. It looks to me like your gk106 may have popcorned. It looks like the chip packaging is bulging in the lower right corner at the diagonal capacitor in the last image you linked. Did you prebake the chip at all to remove moisture? If it's not popcorned then you should try to match the hardware ID in vBIOS to what the card now calls itself. I found in optimus mode that you can have them mismatched on maxwell class GPU, but not if the card is the primary GPU. Have you tried the dGPU as primary? If you haven't yet, trying it may give you a blank screen with no way to get the iGPU back to primary without a BIOS flash via programmer. A blind normal flash or cmos battery removal often does not reset all bios settings.
  4. The driver does not install without modding the .inf? Usually desktop cards have their entries in nvdisp.inf.
  5. Awesome, my "new" laptop will now no longer have missing pieces.
  6. $70 for the drive is a bit steep for me, so I'm thinking of bidding instead of buyout unless you want to relist. I'd probably never burn a blu-ray, and there are "new" (old but unused) 12.7mm burners on ebay for less. I have had 2 optical drives die so use definitely matters.
  7. Yeah the HDD/SSD drive caddy would be good to have and I see you listed it. Mainly I want the optical drive bezel. The P150EM bezel does not match at all. The bracket for the single screw to hold the drive in would be helpful as well, although I could make that out of copper flashing. And hell, my optical drive is getting flaky, so the whole optical drive would be nice if you're willing to part with it, especially if it can read blu-ray. idk if you want to relist the caddy with the other parts included or just make another listing, so I've held off buying it for now.
  8. If you put them up on ebay I will 100% buy them if they're cheap enough. Also this is the link to TI's page if you want to use that: https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/classifieds/category/2-notebooks-and-components/
  9. Do you still have the battery and optical drive caddy? I picked up a P157SM-A frame and have everything but those. The battery doesn't need to work. I just need the shell. As for the optical drive all I really need is the bezel, but the fully caddy would be nice to secure the SSD.
  10. The 980m does draw more power than the 7970m, probably around 50% more. The 7970m draws no where near 100W, while a 980m really will draw 100W. Doesn't the m17x R4 already come with a 240W power supply? You should be fine as long as you don't raise the 980m's power limit. Manually updating drivers means you need to change a setup file for the driver which says that installing a driver for your GPU/laptop combination is OK. Since your laptop was never released with the 980m Nvidia does not have it in the list of approved combinations. The modification is easy to do. J95 wrote a guide on how to do the modification here:
  11. Meset only enables flashing the ME FW. You can flash the bios without running meset. Have you tried just flashing the bios?
  12. GK104 and GM204 share the same BGA so physically a 980 core would be compatible, but constructing a vBIOS for the card would probably be impossible. A gtx 770 core should work. You may lose LVDS display output though.
  13. The 580m has 4 weak power phases that are barely adequate for the card. You may have lost one or 2, which is why it's ok when underclocked, but not at stock. Unfortunately it's difficult to test if they're working right.
  14. Thinking back, the 8970m heatsink is actually the very best. The 980m heatsink is missing part of the radiator over top of the memory/VR heatpipe, while the 8970m heatsink is not.
  15. The problem with the original heatsink was it came with dual 5mm heatpipes. The 980m heatsink comes with dual 6mm heatpipes. In addition, the core radiator is 4mm thicker on the 98m heatsink vs the 680m heatsink. The extra thickness on the 780m heatsink is mostly wasted because there is no heatpipe going through the back part of the heatsink. The 780m heatsink would probably be fine for you. I don't like it because I always overvolt memory, so I need better memory cooling. The 980m would also blow FETs, which are cooled similarly to memory, so it needed better memory/power supply cooling than the 780m. Most of the heat on the memory heatsink mostly comes from the power supply circuits (power FETs, inductors), not the memory, and the 1060 uses less power than the 780m, and far less than the 980m, so it won't need nearly as much power supply circuit cooling as the 980m.
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