sergioosh

I'd recommend eBay. I've heard Aliexpress can be risky. Try look for damaged units. Not only would you be able to get the part you need, but also will have plenty of spares.

What artifacts??

You'd have to know what kind of connection X230 uses and this screen. Most modern screens use eDP. I do not know if there's any constraints within the BIOS that would stop it from working, but it is possible, and it might be a good idea to do some research. You can always ask the seller. They should either tell you, provide you the needed tools and software, or guarantee that it will work out of the box with full refund in case it doesn't.

Toggle USB legacy mode in BIOS. With SSD and 8GB or more RAM pagefile is not necessary.

That's exactly what I was trying to say. If my Y580 does not overheat, then that means whenever there's Y580 that is overheating, then obviously there's some kind of issue. Usually bad thermal paste job as you have noticed. It's hard to tell whether it's related to binning, but my guess would be that under load they should generate around equal amount of heat. If 3630qm is binned, then it is safe to assume it runs hotter at the same frequency, which is why it's running frequency has been lowered. On the other hand 3840qm does run faster, so I'm sure it generates at least the same amount of heat under load. I do not know how much temperatures can vary depending on manufacturing quality.

Most powerful Ivy Bridge mobile processor within 45W TDP group, both overvoltaged and overclocked GPU to the limits and over the spec RAM. All Y580 have the same thermal design I guess it is safe to assume, that if I don't have overheating issues, then no Y580 should have them.

Please describe what exactly is the problem.

Have you ever considered that maybe during gaming it's running at 100%, and during dust extraction it goes like 110%? Every fan has a bearing which wears down. My guess it can run on the highest speed only for a certain time. It's a guess, so you might as well be right, but I wouldn't do it anyway. I don't have any problems with overheating. If I don't have problems with overheating, then no Y580 should have any problems with overheating. If you do have problems with Y580 overheating, then something is not right. My bet would be thermal paste.

That won't make much difference. Start a benchmarking application or something like that and notice when the fan kicks in. It's less than a minute. It doesn't change the efficiency of the fan and radiator, so it will reach the same temperatures maybe like 30 seconds later?

There's definitely a way, but what's the point? The fan will run at maximum speed when the CPU or GPU reach certain temperature. Running at full speed won't decrease your max temps. All it will do is it will heat up slower.

You should've googled it first. Microsoft says... Certain monitors report a TV-compatibility timing of 59.94Hz. Therefore, Windows 7 exposes two frequencies, 59Hz and 60Hz, for every resolution that is supported at that timing. The 59Hz setting makes sure that a TV-compatible timing is always available for an application such as Windows Media Center. The 60Hz setting maintains compatibility for applications that expect 60Hz. In Windows 7, when a user selects 60Hz, the OS stores a value of 59.94Hz. However, 59Hz is shown in the Screen refresh rate in Control Panel, even though the user selected 60Hz. Regards

This is a very impressive mod. I'm happy I don't have to do any of those with my Y580 though! It'll never beat SLI Y500 in 3D, but oh well

IMO this laptop is too big for a sleeve. Go for a laptop backpack. Some of them have removable sleeve included.

That's better. Thanks octiceps. bluephlamez can you elaborate what exactly did you do to the heatsink? I don't see much point in coating heatsink with more copper unless it's a radiator.

Not the best looking modification, but if it does its job then well done. I do not know how does the heatsink in y500 look by default, so I'm not sure what do you mean by "more copper". Did you add more radiators or...?

The problem with Ultrabay is that they change it all the time. It was introduced back in IBM ThinkPads and since there there have been more than a dozen versions obviously very rarely compatible with previous ones. I had a T400 (or T410?) which isn't all that old, but still I had a hard time finding Ultrabay battery for it :/

Did you buy the Ultrabay GPU separately from the laptop itself? I know people who did that have problems getting it to work. From what I've heard Lenovo did a really stupid thing and they have hidden the option to turn on and off the ultrabay GPU in BIOS , and the value is set in factory.

What's stopping you? Depending on the size and interface it might be more or less challenging. Fortunately, basically all touchpads are connected to USB, so it's mostly a problem of finding the right size replacement. If it wasn't for the fact that sometimes you have to use it (forgot the mouse, battery died, etc.) I'd disconnect it from the mainboard permanently.

Unfortunately since Windows Vista you cannot route one audio source to more than one device at one time. Technically you can, but you have to either use separate sources, or use a virtual audio adapter, that will split audio and direct it to different outputs. The former should be easy to do, but for the latter you'd need something like this: Virtual Audio Cable Home Page . I'm not sure it works with encoded sound like DTS and the rest. So, long story short: you do have to either set it as default or point to S/PDIF output in the given app/player/game.

@octiceps this is just my guess, but maybe he checked what SSHD model he has and looked it up on the internet? @mrclassy OK now I know what you meant and I agree, but you just made it sound impossible Regarding NGFF connector from what I saw on the pictures on the internet there's only one row of pins. I believe you can solder connector with two rows of surface mounted pins by bending the outside ones, soldering the ones on the inside, and then bending back those on the outside. I think I might have done it with a connector that had way smaller amount of pins.

mrclassy have you ever wondered what is the real purpose of this re-flowing machine? It's to speed up the process of assembly. They are still SMD devices. I have soldered such ports and SMD chips at my university of technology with ease... The biggest problem I ever encountered was when I soldered one small chip crooked and two legs touched the same pad. Removing SMD from PCB is a royal pain. Soldering them is easier than you think. Proper tools and a steady hand and you're good to go. EDIT: Ah yeah, almost forgot. Re-flowing is still a type of soldering.

From the picture I found it seems the securing screw is there in both versions. If you really want it it's quite easy to solder if you have the proper tools. If not, I'm sure any electronics shop or service should do it for cheap. I do not know whether it's hard to get this connector though.

Why don't you try 3840qm? Everything is the same except few things - Slightly lower clock +/- Is not unlocked (in this case there's not much gain because of unlocked multiplier, as the cooling system is not efficient enough) + lower TDP, power consumption and better performance per watt + probably cheaper Lenovo officially didn't install anything above 3630qm. They claimed they can put it in, because the chipset supports it and sockets fits. Nothing else. http://www.lenovo.com/psref/pdf/ipbook.pdf (from page 71)

It is upgradeable, because it is possible, and it will work. Will you see performance increase? Probably not. Will you have increased temperatures? Probably yes. Will you have shorter battery life? Most probably yes. Is it worth? Definitely not. I upgraded my Y580 from i5 3210m to i7 3840qm only because I wanted an i7 and I got a really good deal on a used one. Otherwise I would not bother.

Just for the record you can try going higher clocks. I never had any stability issues with 1250/3000/1,125V. Chip quality vary, so you might hit your limit sooner or later than I did. Word of advice: DO NOT overclock when you don't need it. When you already reach fluent FPS it's not worth going further just to get few more FPS. Use it only when you actually need it.