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Found 47 results

  1. TheShortStackTech

    GTX 980m iMac support

    I recently got a 2010 27" iMac for free! Some further research concluded that the MXM slot in the iMac has been proven to work with a GTX 880m, including Mac OS! I used to play with a 7970 ghz edition, but ended up selling it for some more projects. I've been lagging along on a 5870 2gb and thought that with my switch to the free iMac, I might as well update my gpu. Heres the problem I was faced with: the 880m is a little underpowered on stock clocks. So, after even more research I discovered that the 980m was around the same as a 7970 performance wise. I ended up grabbing a deal on an 880m for only 160$, but I did want to share my findings with you guys. *WARNING* ONLY 2009, 2010, AND 2011 IMACS HAVE THE MXM SLOT!!!! IF YOU ARE USING A 2012+ YOU CANNOT UPGRADE YOUR GPU So the 980m used to work all the way up to mac os sierra. It's now high sierra, but the fix is still pretty simple. What you will need: -thermal pads -copper ram heatsinks/ one of the specialized backplates that cools MXM memory modules. -Your graphics card -YOU NEED an imac 2011 gpu heatsink -GOOD thermal paste (Preferably liquid metal if youre comfortable with that) -IMAC 2010 power supply *As far as i know the power supply's between these 3 imac's are interchangeable, but the largest one is the 2010 variant, at the 310 watts, and the others are much lower. *Just from tdp we know that the 980m is 115w and the cpu's on these guys are most commonly 95w, thats allready 200 with out hdd, all the other components etc. -nvidia web drivers READ THE FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY Step 1: You must have all your mac os/ windows partitions set up with bootcamp, and MAKE SURE it boots into Mac OS and wont boot into anything else when you start it up AFTER the upgrade. *Remember nvidia web drivers must be installed before you upgrae Step 2: dremel/ cnc/ remove a couple parts of the VRM section of the imac 2011 heatsink, (You want your card IN HAND so you are able to make sure it fits correctly. step 3: Assemble the gpu assembly step 4: Re assemble the imac, with the new gpu. *This is where is gets slightly harder* step 5: You want to reset your iMac's System Management Controller, otherwise known as SMC. *DO NOT FLASH NVRAM OR PRAM, or you will have to redo the whole process, after you put your old gpu in to fix all the bootcamp problems and such *You can do this by plugging the power cord into your imac, waiting 30 seconds and NOT turning it on, unplug your power cord, wait 30 seconds, then plug it back in. Wait another 30 seconds, then turn it on. (But not before reading the following to be prepared:) step 6: You need to force Mac OS to work with an unsupported card. this is a pretty simple process if you are comfortable with terminal. * I couldn't have found this without this page: https://www.ifixit.com/Story/18646/Successful_iMac_Upgrade_to_GTX_880M " To make a non-apple provided Nvidia graphics card work in macOS Sierra you need to do the following… Start the computer in safe mode by holding shift. Get your BoardID by running this command in terminal echo "<result>$(ioreg -rd1 -c IOPlatformExpertDevice | awk -F'["|"]' '/board-id/{print $4}')</result>" Open the AppleGraphicsControl Kext using this command sudo nano /System/Library/Extensions/AppleGraphicsControl.kext/Contents/PlugIns/AppleGraphicsDevicePolicy.kext/Contents/Info.plist Use the arrow keys to go down until you see <key>ConfigMap</key> followed by a bunch of keys and strings. LOOK FOR YOUR BOARD ID… IF IT IS LISTED: Change the string to <string>none</string> IF IT IS NOT LISTED: Add it in the same format as the ones listed. Save the file by pressing Ctrl+O, then enter. Exit by pressing Ctrl+X Rebuild the kernel cache using the following two commands: sudo kextcache -system-prelinked-kernel AND sudo kextcache -system-caches Have Fun! Theoretically this should work, and I would love for somebody to try as I got an 880m instead. Just keep in mind this is all from research and has not been proven to work. Be sure to research this subject before you try it.
  2. kkzhe

    Clevo P150EM + GTX 970M

    Hi all, I just received and installed a new GTX 970M into my Clevo P150EM. It was a bit tricky at first but I finally got it to work by modding the .inf and installing the 358.50 driver from nVidia. However, I had a couple questions. The card is working but I can hear a buzzing sound when playing GTA V, The Witcher 3, etc... Also, when the game is fullscreen and I click anywhere within the game, the screen flickers and then minimizes. I've also been trying to figure out how to flash Prema's vBios for the 6gb 970M onto this card, but whenever I try to take the write protection off a menu pops up with a beep but then promptly disappears. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  3. I want to upgrade my GPU ( K3000M to other card ) from M6700 I found it : thank u. please help
  4. Flu

    LATEST BIOS P870DM-G

    What is up. Emailed Sager about latest bios and they sent me one. Suppose to provide support for Kabby lake 7XXX series processors as well as optimization for crappy WIFI cards that aka (cough cough KILLER) le'ts not point fingers here XD. File is below. Gotta flash through USB... there are plenty tutorials out there how to do but here are instruction from the email I got. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_Ud_l2en4O0MGw0WWJCaXFUS0E Rename the attached file to 9870BV08LS2.7z(Done it for you already) Unzip the 9870BV08LS2.7z to a USB flash drive. Restart Windows. When the screen turns black, keep tapping F7. Select enter setup on the boot menu. Pull down the exit menu in the CMOS setup. Launch EFI shell from filesystem device. The Startup.nsh will flash the BIOS. Note. Sager Computer does not take the responsibility if the computer does not work after you updated the system BIOS & firmware by yourself. ( Neither do I) Enjoy
  5. Does anyone have experience with this? Some threads I've seen have done it on a 17 inch laptop, I was wondering if it was possible on the 15 inch version as well. What issues will I face? I read about having to have a custom BIOS and vBIOS..but also HDMI/audio issues. I guess I should also upgrade my CPU, which runs really hot (i7 4800MQ), but not sure another Haswell chip will run any cooler. I've used liquid metal and even that hasn't changed temperatures much, it still reaches 93C pretty easily.
  6. fs7halkx2

    MSI gx740 tuning/upgrade options

    Hi, I own gx740 with i5-430m, 4GB RAM, and I planned to do some upgrades. Currently I did: - upgrade SSD, move HDD to dvd drive space - have some unlocked bios (but didn't found usage for it currently) - have modified vbios but not sure if the values I've used are good I was thinking about: - upgrading CPU to i7-640M - upgrading RAM (not sure which will fit) I would like to also: - fix broken/cracked frame around screen, but it wont be easy and cheap I guess? - replace screen to something brighter (?) but this will probably not be worth the cost 1) What do you guys think about it? Is it even worth? 2) I've also see something like 'grain effect' moving grey stripes on same page elements (long time I remember it could be related to faulty bios/vbios)?
  7. Hi All! First thread poste here! Very happy with my beast ..again! m18x R2 on modded bios (SG mode needed, optimus mode igfx+dGpu) So my msi 1060 from alezka.com (Woodzstack thank you) was arrived yesterday, fast, very well packaged , and with a bit of icdiamond7. Removed (not very well..buyed and used a dremel for first time) the tiny metal square on heatsink , that touch ram on 1060. put thermal pads everywhere to match heatsink space. Absolutely do not tight or strengt too much the gpu because has on his backside a big squared capacitator that push on motherboard Here 3dmark11 to start benching msi1060 (stock clocks) + 3920xm(4.2Ghz) on m18xR2 . http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/12179815 Score 13581 GraphicScore 14934 Physics 10877 CombinedScore 10396 Max GPU temp 71° (at 24° t.amb). And Here 3dMark http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19968894 Score 9849 GraphicScore 11547 Physics 11182 CombinedScore 4318 Max GPU temp 71° (at 24° t.amb). Superposition benchmark GPU max temp 72° Now I'm start to look if performance is aligned with other 1060's powered laptops. All suggestion are very welcome! Bye All!
  8. As the title says; is it possible to upgrade the old MSI 16f2 with any pascal card? Or is the 980M the highest possible? Looking forward to your answers. Thanks
  9. Hey guys, I recently upgraded my M15x with a i7 920XM and a GTX 780M. Flashed the modified vbios, got a 330W brick, pulled the pin, installed newest drivers and did some gaming. Everything worked pretty well, only sometimes the 780M reached 93C and clocked down, but still ran stable, never crashed. Therefore I decided to get a finer TIM and repaste. Bought the Noctua NT-H1, carefully repasted and voila, temps dropped around 15C. But here comes the catch: when trying Furmark or some very intensive game, the GPU reaches 88C and screen immediately turns a random color. No downclocking, no limiting, just a sudden crash. Only thing I can do is a hard reset. This doesnt happen on any other occasion, can game on 80C for an hour. Do you guys have any sort of idea why the laptop crashes at 88C, while before it worked at 90+ without a problem? Things I tried: Used DDU and reinstalled the drivers, also tried older version. CMOS reset. Cleaned everything, no dust left anywhere. Carefully checked the GPU for any visible damage or old TIM residue. Tried undervolting and underclocking, only took longer to get to 88C and still crashed. For the sake of it I actually strapped a Corsair H45 AIO to the GPU heatsink. Now i get to max 55C with furmark, but the laptop still cashes after around 2 minutes. I would be happy for any suggestion, thanks!
  10. I have an MSI GT783R that is defective (turns off randomly) and now that I moved to US, I found out that it may be possible to repair/upgrade it. Since I'm relatively new in DIYing laptops, I have couple questions that I believe someone here may be able to answer. Below: - I noticed that this model is something related to MS-1761. What exactly is this? A type of notebook? A barebone (I think the word for this is barebook?)? A model that is similar to this one? Everytime I look for it I got motherboards, notebooks, bios all referring to this MS-1761. Can someone clarify this to me? - I suspect the issue may be with the motherboard (long story: when I was playing DA2 in a external monitor, I closed the computer and put it in a location that ended up overheating it and it turned off. After this incident, the computer turns off randomly, even when not playing anything). Can I replace the motherboard with one from some other model (called MSI and they don't have a spare one anymore). I have other questions but they are dependent on the answers of these two. Your help is greatly appreciated. Amid
  11. So back when I got my P150EM, one of the deciding factors on getting it was that due to optimus/enduro, the battery life was respectable. I wanted the top hardware while still having some mobility. Over time though, the battery became more and more worn out, to the point where I hardly got over an hour of life out of it. New batteries are stupidly expensive, and Clevo used cheap cells for it in the first place. I wasn't paying $100 for a mediocre replacement battery. I decided to pay $50 for top end cells to boost capacity by 30% and get over 6h of battery life. I figured that this could get messy, and luckily a friend let me have his nearly dead P150HM battery for me to have some spare parts. So I swapped the cells, while destroying the plastic battery shell in the process, and got a battery that worked just like it still had the old cells. Figuring I needed to reprogram the EEPROM on the battery pack, I started removing the glue all over the EEPROM chip to get it in my programmer. I stupidly forgot that I was working on a BATTERY, which meant that it was ALWAYS ON, and poured MEK over it, blowing a fuse. After getting pissed off and giving up for a few months, today I gave it another go. I got the EEPROM chip out and started taking guesses at how to reprogram it. If I guessed wrong, good thing the fuse was blown so I don't melt anything. I figured out that battery EEPROM contains the capacity info in terms of mAh for a pair of battery cells. I searched for the default 5200 mAh (1450 in hex) and found it. I then raised this to 6800 mAh (1A90 in hex). It was a success! Nominal battery capacity was now 100640 mAh total. So now I knew I could probably program things right after enough tries. It was now time to get the battery operational again. I bridged the fuse, and the battery came back to life. Sort of. It would charge when off, but not on. It would run, but windows reported no battery drain (infinite energy!?!?!?!?). In short, the battery EEPROM was not being updated at all as the battery state changed. I was under the impression that if Ilet it charge, it would not stop until overvoltage protection kicked in, and if I let it discharge, it would not turn off until the system BIOS detected an undervoltage scenario, which is far below the safe discharge voltage of the battery. I figured for the time I'd just let it be and try to get the EEPROM right. Next was looking for the wear capacity. This is the capacity left in the battery as it ages. Using hwinfo64, I got the wear level, converted it to hex, and found it in the EEPROM. I then changed it to only 5% wear instead of 74%. I left some wear because I did let the cells sit for a few months, and I was directly soldering to the cells, which isn't really good for them due to the heat from the iron. This was a success. Current charge % correctly dropped as well. So now I needed to get the battery charging right. My only option was to rip apart my old, but fully functional P150EM battery. I found that the fuse was actually really weird with 3 prongs, and only 2 prongs were supposed to have 0 resistance. I had soldered all 3 together on the P150HM battery. I switched the EEPROM chips and boards, then hoped it would work and not require me to run and get the fire extinguisher. It worked! The battery is now charging properly as I type this. It also discharges right too. It looks like the laptop will try to overcharge it a bit since the current charge % was a little low vs reality, but that should just give it a little extra wear, with the charge % being calibrated properly at 100%. I'm not sure how I'm going to get that back in the shell... Continue discussion in original thread here.
  12. freak123

    Y510p RAM upgrading

    Does anyone know if I can smack 2x16gb(32gb) ddr3l sodimm into the y510p without issue? Yes the documentation states it's upgradable to 16gb maximum, but surely that's bs, I mean the 4700Mq is capable of 32gb RAM so what's the problem? I read some speculation online on various forums, but can anyone confirm it is possible? I'm just scared to buy the RAM if it's not going to work. Thanks InB4 "you don't need that much RAM" I do.
  13. CPU Fan Upgrade Procedure for M17x R3/R4 (2.0CFM->10.4CFM!)<o:p></o:p> My original CPU fan was adequate (not great but adequate) fora 3740qm CPU @ 3.7GHz but when I upgraded to a 3920xm CPU and overclocked to4.1GHz x 4 cores, I needed more cooling - a lot more. Running a 60-second CPU stress test on all four cores in Intel XTU, with a 65watt CPU TDP programmed, and a core voltage of 1.351v, the difference is asfollows: · With original fan, system runs @ 4.1GHz for ~28 seconds before dropping to3.5-3.7GHz because of heat. On longerstress tests, it DOES NOT recover from this reduced speed state becausecooling is not adequate. Core Max: 92-95Celsius. · With this fan mod, system runs @ 4.1GHz for ~55 seconds before dropping to 3.7GHzbecause of heat. On longer stress tests,it DOES recover from this reducedspeed state and spikes of ~4GHz are seen for the remaining duration of thetest. Core Max: 92 Celsius every time. <o:p> </o:p> So here are the stepswith some pictures: 1. Procure an M14x R2 fan. It MUST be an R2 fan!! The fan blade design is clearly different so usemy picture as a reference. There are many eBay sellers, for example, selling the R1 fan as an "M14x series fan," implying that bothrevisions use the same fan - which is not true. The R1's fan has a 2CFM sticker rating while the R2's has 10.4! The markings to search for are: XN0G5 and/or DC28000AJF0. I got mine here: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Cooling-Fan-for-Dell-Alienware-M14x-XN0G5/207462_647373968.html Note: Do not just swap the M14x's fan blade into your existing M17x fanshroud. I tried that first and it doesnot increase airflow. You need the newblade AND the new shroud for this to be effective. 2. Remove your original CPU fan. There are three screws that hold it in. Also disconnect its power jack from themotherboard. While you have access, youmight want to blast that exposed exhaust port with some compressed air to makesure everything is clean. 3. Notice the three mounting brackets that protrudefrom the sides of the fan shroud in the picture from Step 1. You'll need to cut them off so the shroudwill fit. I used a Dremel with agrinding wheel. There's also one smallblack screw in the corner with the yellow sticker. You'll need to remove it and grind down thatprotrusion as well. Save that screw forlater btw. 4. Make spacers/pads to hold the new fan up. The factory pieces will not line up so you'llwant something under the fan for clearance and to allow air intake from theunderside. I used small pieces of arubber material called Dynamat but padded mirror tape would work, as would manylayers of electrical tape placed on top of each other. It doesn't matter what you use - as long asit won't melt - and you'll want it to have a small footprint so it doesn'tblock airflow. I made my pads abouttwice the height of the factory material. Higher pads will allow for greater clearance and more air intake - justbe sure the fan still lines up with the heatsink and the case closes over it. This picture shows the three pads I made, and the fan shroud with its originalmounts ground off. 5. Create a mounting bracket to secure the fanshroud at the point farthest from the exhaust port. You could optionally fabricate mounts to lineup to all three screw threads on the case, but with my sturdy rubber pads andthe tape that will be included on the exhaust side if you buy your fan new, Iwas fine with only one new mount. Note: Leavethat tape covered until the end of Step 7. I used a thin piece of copper but any metal is fine. Bend the metal so it lines up to both the topof the fan shroud and the point above the screw thread on the case. Mark how it sits on the fan shroud and drill twotiny holes (1/16" bit) through the shroud-side of the mount. Now place the mount on the shroud using yourmarkings and VERY CAREFULLY drill further so that you have holes going throughthe plastic as well. Do not push hardand do not hit the fan blade within! Drill a slightly larger hole on the case-side of your mount where itwill line up with the screw thread. Thescrew you saved from Step #3 can be used for one of the shroud-side holes andwill not hit the fan blade within. Ifyou can come up with another similar screw, use it for the second hole. If not, you can take one of the other twofrom the shroud assembly if you want. It's also held together with clips so it won't fall apart. One of the three screws that held in youroriginal fan shroud can be used for the other (case side) of the mount. 6. Thoroughly blow off your new shroud inside andout with compressed air to remove any stray plastic scraps from the machiningprocess. 7. Fit everything up, making sure the fan sitsflush on all the pads you've made. Makesure it lines up with the heatsink and isn't too high or too low into thecase. Adjust pads as necessary. Once you're satisfied, screw in your mount tohold the fan in place. Now lift up thetape on the exhaust side (which should still be covered) and remove thecovering. Carefully fold the sticky partdown onto the copper heatsink pipes to secure that side of the assembly. 8. Plug in the fan's power jack. Again, ignore the connector being a differentcolor. It fits and it works withoutmodification or programming. 9. Close your unit up and enjoy!! So there it is! Let me know how this works out for you guys if you try it - and what you think about the procedure itself. Suggestions/questions are always welcome! * I obviously assume no liability if you break anything doing this. Informational purposes only, etc, etc, * This procedure replaces the M17x's original CPU fan (and fanshroud) with that of the M14x R2, and yields a greatly increased fanoutput. Both fans use the samemotherboard connector (ignore the color difference of the jack) so all that'sneeded here is to procure an M14x R2 fan, modify the mounting system a bit soit fits, and connect it up - and it works like a charm!
  14. Instructions for modifying the latest GeForce 361.91 WHQL driver inf to work with Alienware notebooks. GeForce 361.91 WHQL *Install drivers at your own risk* Windows 10 + GeForce Drivers are Killing Samsung and LG Notebook LCD Display Panels Uninstall both PrecisionX & MSI Afterburner (Keep RTSS) including screen overclocking tools *Still at risk* Requirements: Due to driver incompatibility (black screens, TDRs, BSODs...) with previous vBIOS versions you must flash latest @Prema's v2 980M & 970M (Please consider donating to Prema) Win10/8.1 'F8' Boot options 'Safe Mode' & 'Disable driver Signing' cmd (Admin) bcdedit /set {default} bootmenupolicy legacy -> reboot -> F8 -> select 'Disable Driver Signature Enforcement' -> Install drivers Run DDU "Clean & Shutdown (Safe Mode) Extract driver using 7-Zip Display.Driver folder, copy/overwrite the proper .inf file Extracted driver package, run setup.exe -> Keep these folders only <- INF MOD v361.91 nv_dispi.inf (including nvdmi.inf) PEG/Dedicated All Models: M15x, M17x, AW17 R1, M18x, AW18 R1 (including Optimus/M17xR4) excluding AW 2015 - GTX 980M , 970M , 965M , 880M , 870M , 860M , 780M , 770M , 765M , 680M , 675MX , 670MX , 660M nvcvi.inf: Optimus Alienware 17 / 05AA (only) GTX 980M - 970M - 965M Updated throttle free PEG MODs GeForce 353.00 PEG MOD Win7/8.1 - Full_Profiles_8_v353.00.txt GeForce 352.84 PEG MOD Win 10 - Full_Profiles_4_v352.84.txt...soon Done! GeForce 361.91 Win 7/8.1 GeForce 361.91 Win10 nv_dispi.inf_v361.91_Win7_8.1_PEG_Dedicated.zip nvcvi.inf_v361.91_Win7_8.1_Optimus_Alienware_17.zip nv_dispi.inf_v361.91_Win10_PEG_Dedicated.zip nvcvi.inf_v361.91_Win10_Optimus_Alienware_17.zip @thegh0sts 120Hz models! NV v361.75 previously installed, set refresh rate to 60Hz before uninstalling drivers. DDU uninstall "Clean and restart", Options: uncheck "Remove present and non-present monitors" Continue original discussion here.
  15. Hello. This might look like a strange question to ask but I would like to know if at this point it is worth it upgrading from a P750ZM to a P750DM-G ? My current specs are the best I could get in my ZM. -i7 4790K (overclocked) @ 4.3 GHZ -16 GB Ram Hyper X Impact DDR3 -GTX 980M custom Vbios (Overclocked) -2 x Samsung 950 Pro 500 Gb V-Nand SSD -1X 1TO SSHD (seagate) 7200. I was wondering if there is any advantage the DM has over the ZM are Intel 6 gen processors worth it over my i7 4790K ? Is there any advantage of having thunderbolt on a laptop that's already up-gradable ? Is there any other advantages of getting a DM-G at this point in time. I have been hearing a lot about 6 gen intel and the new 750DM-G's but I got my ZM expecting to keep it for at least two years upgrading to a top of the line PASCAL GPU along the way when those are available and when the bios updates are available before buying a new clevo barebone and transferring my GPU and SSD's into my new clevo system when I purchase it I was expecting to do this at around X-Mas 2016-Early 2017. Is there any good reason for upgrading before end 2016 early 2017 ? I am currently torn between sending the money in this hobby or in another one (film photography)..... Thank you in advance for your help and advice !
  16. Hi there this is my first post. I installed a gtx 765m in my m17x r3 and couldn't get the machine to post. I would only get 8 beeps. The system did post with integrated graphics enabled but would lock up right after the loading bar during post. I could not get into bios. HD Audio has been disabled in bios. I am on official bios a12. The 765m did come with its own x bracket and I am upgrading from a 560m. I did reset the cmos multiple times and it didn't affect anything. I am almost sure the card must just be faulty but I wanted to know if anyone else had an idea about my problem. Thanks, glad to be here.
  17. so my old G75VW is needing some upgrades, i have a bunch of options: Motherboard swap using a G75VX motherboard with thunderbolt to get a thunderbolt port + akitio thunder2 Using some mad casemodding skills to fit a GTX880M + heatsink(from a G750), vbios mod(some help needed) Exp gdc maybe with a GTX 1070 or 1060 Sell it and buy a clevo or alienware
  18. Hi all! Figured since there aren't many avenues out there as of yet that properly show how to dissect your phoenix, I'd try to take up the mantle with my own experience in upgrading the LCD panel from FHD 1080 to the 4K panel. Before we get started, I'd like to present a list a useful tools to have beforehand if you intend to pursue this endeavor. I'll be providing pictures of my own tools as well as links to various components you need for purchase if you intend to follow-suit: ATTENTION HUGE PICTURE LOAD AHEAD! Continue discussion of guide here.
  19. Hi, I am trying to do the "Ultimate" G73jh upgrade and I have power related issues. So I have the most "basic" G73jh, with i5-430m and 5870m. This version is the one with the brown MB, with only 2 memory slots. What I did: - Opening the whole laptop - Swapping 5970m to 7970m - Blind-Flashing 7970m vBios - It boot ! But GPU/RAM frequency stay at 450/300 maximum, because of my 120W PSU I think (throttle), So I ordered a 240W One - Swapping i5-430m to i7-920XM - It boot but I almost didnt use it because I was affraid of my weak PSU (dont want to burn it !) Then I received my new PSU, from ebay ( http://www.ebay.fr/itm/201638674476). And... Nothing change !! My 7970m is stil throttling. And I cant OC the 920XM, if I go over 70W TDP, the G73 instent shutdown :-/. I need your help to be sure Its a PSU related issue, and not something else, like my mobo etc. I dont want to buy a 100+€ PSU if this is not the problem. As my G73 is still out of his case, I manage to solder the PSU wire directly on the MB, and then I measured voltage during full load (prime95). IDLE 19,4-19,5V LOADED: 19,3-19,4V Not that bad ! I am very confused because the PSU seams to work. I have no oscilloscope to watch the signal in real-time... For sure it is not a real DELL but if voltage is not droping, whats wrong ? Its very frustrating to know that everything work but can't be "feeded" with Amps ! Any ideas ? EDIT: All temps are OK ! Furmark : 58° GPU... (because of the low Freq :-/ ) EDIT2: new info: I tried on battery, It is the same, is it a common behavioor ? (My battery is almost dead, only 30% capacity) EDIT3: Do you know if the "metalic" part of the case (under the keyboard) have somthing to do with the power delivery in the mobo ? EDIT4: I reassemble the laptop, so no, the metal plane have nothing to do with ground...
  20. Hi all! Figured since there aren't many avenues out there as of yet that properly show how to dissect your phoenix, I'd try to take up the mantle with my own experience in upgrading the LCD panel from FHD 1080 to the 4K panel. Before we get started, I'd like to present a list a useful tools to have beforehand if you intend to pursue this endeavor. I'll be providing pictures of my own tools as well as links to various components you need for purchase if you intend to follow-suit: MOD EDIT: ATTENTION HUGE PICTURE LOAD AHEAD!
  21. Grimm6Jack

    Clevo P150SM Upgrade. What to do!?

    Hi, I have a Clevo P150SM (Not SM-A, just SM) with a GTX 770m, bought over 2 years ago. I wanted to upgrade to a GTX 9xxm series, a GTX 970m or even a 980m to max it out. However I have 2 issues. I don't know if I have to do something on the BIOS for the 9xxm series card to work, I hear a lot that I have to modify the BIOS but it's not clear so I would really appreciate if someone knowledgeable adresses this for me. The 2nd issue, is more to do about the 980m only. My Clevo P150SM has a 180W power brick, I don't intend to overclock anything, be it CPU or GPU and I'll play at 1600x900 with mostly high/some ultra settings(no AA or MSAA) with V-Sync ON. I'm sure a 180W brick can handle a 970m + a 47W processor (i7-4910mq) but I'm no so sure about the 980m, which is the one I have my sights on, so is a 180W brick safe or is it recomended to get a 200W+ power brick? And if so, where can I get one that's capable of connecting to the P150SM(with the Barrel Round Plug Tip).
  22. On the Eurocom web site (where one can purchase a GTX980M upgrade kit), they state that their modded drivers require Win8+. This seems strange to me, considering my desktop still runs Win7 with a 980Ti and the Nvidia drivers are fine... Is anyone running the 980M in their R4 with Win7..? Is it possible to mod Win7 drivers for this card..?
  23. Hi together :-) As the title says I'm having a little Issue after upgrading my m6700's graphics card from the K3000M to the newer K4100M: Everything seems to work properly, but under load (i.e. 3D applications) it produces crashes / system instability after ~5-20 seconds. When I reduce the chip- and memory-clocks in MSI Afterburner as far as possible, it takes a bit longer until it crashes, but eventually it always does after a minute or so. When running on battery power (and thus even further reduced clocks) everything runs stable for arbitrarily long times. This sounds like a thermal problem to me. However, the reported GPU temperature never exceeded 65°C, which I think is OK. I guess the memory chips are not temperature monitored seperately, are they? So maybe I should replace the memory thermal pads by new ones? What I've already tried/checked/looked at: - Uninstalled previous drivers with "Display Driver Uninstaller" - Latest Nvidia Drivers can be installed properly (and also tried a few older versions) - Notebook BIOS is up to date - Tried three different Video-BIOS versions - Graphics card is not recognized by Notebook BIOS properly ("Unknown video card") - Graphics card is recognized under Windows, though (Device-manager / Nvidia control-panel / GPU-Z and so on) - Sometimes after a crash the system recovers and a pop-up says that the nvidia graphics driver crashed and was restarted - Of course, I'm using the large 240 Watt Power supply Ok, that's about everything I remember to be relevant at the moment. I'd appreciate any kind of help :-) ... If you need further Information, just let me know, and I'll try to deliver it. Thank you, Florian
  24. Ronin440

    P570WM Motherboard Upgrade X7200

    So I've got an old X7200 that's still going strong, but just recently I've come into possession of a motherboard from a P570WM (for FREE!). In light of this, and noticing how the casing looks the same on both laptops, does anyone know if a motherboard swap would be doable? I understand I'd need a new cpu, but before I invest any cash, I figured I should ask people that know better than I if it's even feasible.
  25. Hello all, Im new to this forum so please bear with me here. As the title says im upgrading my M17xR3 from a dead 6970m to a 780m. Have not purchased the video card yet, but will be doing so thursday. So in preparation of that, i wanted to make a post on here asking for all experience, advice, and any tricks or problems people have experienced doing this upgrade themselves. All help and advice is welcome. My current system is a M17xR3, gpu 6970m, cpu 2860qm, screen is 1920x1080. I still love my computer and it has been a solid workhorse for the past 4-5 years. I have run this 6970m overclocked to 820/1100 and actually surprised it lasted 5 years like this. I think the final nail in the coffin was upgrading to windows 10 and trying to install new drivers. I think i mistakenly tried to install the wrong drivers, trying to get the most current after new windows install. But anywho i still want to keep my computer and just upgrade the gpu. I have done a lot of research and seems the easiest upgrade would be to go to a 780m as anything higher then that tends to be very problematic. As long as it out performs the 6970 the way i had it overclocked i will be happy. So a few questions reguarding this matter Is this a major jump in performance or will i not notice to much difference? Any major problems or things to look out for in this upgrade, what not to do, what to make sure to do? What is the best thermal paste to use these days? Where can i get the thermal pads i need for the 780m? will i need custom video drivers to make this work? Where do i get them? Do i have to disable the integrated graphics for this to work? what all do i need to make this switch from the 6970m? do i need a whole new heatsink, or just the xbracket? Is the 780m safe to overclock at all, anyone done so at a stable overclock. And basically anything you think a noob should know about this before i dive in? All help, advice, experience, mess-ups, are welcome. looking to go into this with some pre-learned knowledge and hopefully it will all turn out o.k.
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