Khenglish

Did you ever run 1 card a time to see which one is limiting you?

BCLK overclocking is your only hope, and it won't get you much of an overclock. I don't know how to unlock the security settings on a lenovo without desoldering the ME FW chip, but if if figure out a way then this might work: http://forum.techinferno.com/general-notebook-discussions/2091-lets-enable-overclocking-all-6-7-series-laptops.html

You have amazing cores with over 1100 at 1.075V with normal room temps and the chassis closed. 80C on the CPU make a lot more sense than 56C.

That's an enormous clock gain for just a change in filtering. But memory voltage regulation is just a single phase, so maybe a 42% capacitance gain does help a lot. Notice that all core caps went up to 470u as well. The core inductors did not change. Do you know how power phase based voltage regulation works for DC? I've only ever done it with AC. I'm guessing that since you end up making DC that the load capacitance does not need to have a certain ratio with inductance? IDK

Nice core clocks. I assume you're running a 1.1V bios? Mine can only do 1019 fully stable at 1.05V (1032 lasts for around 15 minutes), and my core is average. Sucks you got mediocre memory like I did. Some people can run over 1250 with no mods. Your max CPU temp is listed as 56C... did you just start monitoring, or did you really only hit 56C in the 3dm11 physics test running 6 cores at 4.3ghz in a laptop?

Keep an eye out for a motherboard manufacturer to accidentally post a ME FW bring-up guide for it. I know that's how we got 6 series info, if not 5 and 7 as well. Unfortunately x79 is way too different from the rest of the 7 series to even take a guess at what would allow BLCK overclocking.

I am referring to the VRM in green: http://i.imgur.com/lDZqo1L.jpg

Sometimes I use a cap at 60 when I play a game that I can't maintain 60 fps in for vsync. Frame cap at 60 ends up being quasi-vsync at 60, without the negatives of vsync when below 60.

What about pulling the screens out of the bezels?

Yeah free version works.

So it turns out that the SANDRA GPU/CPU bandwidth test is very accurate when testing PCI-E bandwidth: Look at "interface transfer bandwidth" graphs. Red was 102MHz BCLK Blue was 101MHz Green was 99.4MHz Looks like a good way to compare bandwidth to me. FYI I was only running PCI-E 2.0 since I have a sandy bridge in this.

I'm not certain what scenario you are trying to describe, but sager(clevo) PSUs will turn off when their power output is exceeded, causing the system to run on battery. The system will only run high load for a few seconds on battery, but by then the PSU likely will have turned back on, preventing a system shutdown. However haven is not very power demanding, so I don't think you will exceed 180W without overvolting and overclocking. Another thing is that clevos will throttle the CPU under high combined GPU and CPU usage. This throttle can be prevented with throttlestop.

How well is forcing SSAA working? I played with it some in nvidia inspector, but it didn't force for all games. I wish nvidia officially supported it. It is the best AA afterall.

That's an old driver. Try the latest 320.18 driver. You may need to modify the driver to get it to install since your card is not yet released.

Yes clevos do have matte options. Oh god CRT screen resolutions... I had a 2001 15 inch that I messed around with setting to over 2400x1800. The screen only had phosphors for up to 1600x1200, but there was still a little improvement. Was great not having to worry about things like response time, input lag, viewing angles, dead pixels, and color gamut with CRTs. They did have their own things to worry about though.

Seems dumb to me that they don't offer matte. I see no reason not to. Most people prefer matte over glossy. As for IPS, ISP screens tend to have longer response times when compared to TN. I believe IPS can still be made with reasonable response times though for desktops, but maybe not with the reduced power budget in laptops. The m18x has around the power draw of a desktop though so IDK. Probably just dell being lazy and cheap.

Ha nice memory swap. And I see on your vmem mod that you raised the .7V-Vout resistance instead of lowering the .7V-GND resistance. Why didn't you do the easier mod to lower the .7V-GND? Also there is an extra VRM on the other end of the PCB close to the GPU die. Do you know what it controls? Vcore is at the top of the card so it's not that. I'm guessing either memory controller voltage or PCI-E voltage. Memory controller voltage would explain your low overclock despite replacing the memory and raising the voltage. It would also explain why the 780m's memory clocks so much higher that 680m memory. I would certainly play with this if my card was not such a PITA to get working right due to the warp I put in it. Also I had memory heat issues over 1.5V. You might clock higher at a more conservative voltage like 1.45V.

You can use 15mm? Well that opens up your options. The 15mms are far more expensive though. Even with them the one I linked still looks best bang for your buck.

Watch out for height on the 1TB+ drives. Some are 15mm instead of the standard 9.5mm, which likely will not fit. Also the big drives tend to be only 5400rpm. This is the only 7200rpm 1TB I found on newegg: Newegg.com - Hitachi GST Travelstar 0S03563 1TB 7200 RPM RPM 32MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 2.5" Internal Notebook Hard Drive Only $90 so that looks like your best option.

The monitor was a screen from 2012 and I used the same program you did... I am sorry what I write is garbage because I had poor results. From now on I will lie so that you like what I write.

http://forum.techinferno.com/general-notebook-discussions/3617-how-overvolt-680m-memory.html

I've had a couple people ask me how I overvolted my 680m's memory, so here's a guide for 4GB Clevo cards: The memory has its own VRM separate from the larger core VRM. The memory has a hardwired voltage based on a voltage divider. Default voltage is 1.35V for all 680m models. 680mx and 780m have 1.5V on their memory. The middle of the voltage divider is always .7V. What you do is lower the resistance of the resistor between the .7V point and GND causing more current flow, making the voltage drop between Vout and .7V increase, thus raising Vout. Annoyingly the resistor to modify is on the backside of the 680m, so you need to take the card out. General area: http://i.imgur.com/0zHaOVH.jpg (the glue is to try to keep the graphite on the resistor over time. more on that later) Exact resistor: http://i.imgur.com/E3ZSXBr.jpg Now doesn't everything sound nice and easy? That's what I thought at the time. It turns out that when the 680m is off that lots of stuff looks shorted together even though it really isn't. Even better is that measuring resistance one way or the other will produce different results. The only explanation I have for that is that the memory FETs are not symmetric and have enough subthreshold conduction to change what the multimeter sees. And what looks shorted with the system off? Vout to GND! This means that you will measure the same value across Vout and .7V as .7V to GND, so you can't tell what the output voltage is. I did some math though to determine what the resistance values likely are. I measured a resistance of 11.73k one way, and 11.50k the other. Assuming that these are the only 2 resistors in parallel, that means that the .7V to GND resistor (the one we want to mod) is really 25.4k, and the other resistor is 21.79k. (the Vout to .7V resistor is immediately to the left of the cap above the .7V GND resistor). You could desolder them and measure them, but I never bothered to since I figured it'd be a great way for things to get messed up. You can measure the memory voltage with the card running from the pair of 330u caps on the front side of the card, but that requires running the card with the memory cooler off. It should be safe with the card idle. I never did it though. I ended up pencil modding the resistor down to where I measured 10.63k. If I did my math right this means that I raised the voltage to 1.48V. I found measuring the resistance between pin 4 on the VRM to GND, which can be found on one end of most caps, to be an easier way to measure the resistance that trying to touch the ends of the tiny resistor. Back to why I had glue on the resistor. I had issues with the pencil graphite settling and changing the resistance value over time. Twice it went up. Once it went down. The alarming time was when it went down. I closed up the laptop measuring 10.59k. The next day my GPU started crashing constantly. Measured the resistance again and it had dropped to 9.37k, which is well over 1.5V. To do this mod a proper and non-lazy way unlike me, you should probably buy small SMD resistors and piggy back one on the existing resistor. That way you know that the voltage will remain constant over time. You could also just touch a known resistor to the existing one to help figure out what the resistance and thus output voltage really is. The glue actually took the graphite off the resistor, so don't try it. I did this mod to a 4GB clevo card. I do not know if the dell and MSI cards have the same memory voltage circuit. Maybe they do though and cards like the 675mx do too. I don't know. Before the mod I was running memory at 4700. After this I run it around 5100. I also replaced the cooling pads with copper shims. Before that my memory only ran in the low 4600s. A problem is though the shims are thicker than the pads, and I overtightened the screws and warped the card... don't do that. It looks like I might be getting a 780m because I did that. I can't guarantee that you won't blow up your card doing this. Don't blame me or make Dell or whoever pay for it if you do.

Stock BIOS is bad. BIOS is most certainly a resounding win for the AW camp. Even when running a modded BIOS I still have bugs like my BIOS refuses to load ES microcode updates, and the GPU fan will sometimes stick on at low speed even when the 680m is off and below 30C.

It is possible to convert a GPT into a MBR using a hex editor. GPT spec originally called for also having an MBR, but they ended up intentionally making the MBR's partition table invalid for some reason. In theory both GPT and MBR can be operable, but GPT no longer worked for me when I did this on a toshiba. Keep in mind that if you make a mistake that windows recovery is completely incapable of fixing a corrupt MBR or GPT, despite having multiple boot recovery programs. Luckily when I made my mistake (wrote in a partition size backwards) I had an old version of partition magic lying around on a CD that let me directly edit the MBR to fix it. Now I can run my assembly files on that laptop prior to loading windows I find GPT to be a PITA since it vastly complicates booting from a flash drive. If you don't have a drive >2TB there is no reason to use it. PM me if you want the procedure. Remember if you mess up, there's a good chance you'll have to reformat, especially if you do not have partition table editing software. Doing all the math for LBA sizes is very tedious. I'd try to exhaust other options first before resorting to this.

clevo sells their laptops with bent heatsink plates so that it is impossible to get good die contact without lapping heatsinks. You can somewhat compensate by using a large amount of thermal paste, but flattening out the heatsink is the only true fix. I sanded mine flat on the edge of a countertop with 800 grit sandpaper. Arctic silver is an outdated thermal paste. I suggest IC Diamond instead.