AllanDavidson

6 minutes ago, High_Voltage said:

@AllanDavidson Did you follow the instructions thoroughly? I mean using the correct USB port, correct power plug-in procedure etc?

 

Regardless, flash LED not blinking a single time is a very bad sign. Could be that your PCH has died. Not sure if there's an easy way to test this at home, but any decent laptop repair shop would have no problem diagnosing something like that. Also, you should verify that you RAM works in some other PC (or put some known-good in this one). 

Yes.
1. Pen Drive on USB3 port closest to the HDMI
2. Hold Win+R (also tried Fn+R)
3. Put on Power Cable
4. Power on
5. Wait until it blinks to release Win+R (it never did)

It may be a hardware issue. Maybe I need to take it to repair.


_
These are the contents of the Pen Drive

52 minutes ago, High_Voltage said:

@AllanDavidson The crisis recovery disk has nothing to do with booting from flash drive. It is a very low level recovery mechanism built into (possibly) the Intel ME firmware, which allows PC to read raw binary BIOS file (which is what the file I linked essentially is) and rewrite its own BIOS completely even in case it has been totally corrupted.

 

During the Crisis recovery you WILL NOT SEE anything on the screen. Your only indication that the process is happening will be the blinking of the access LED on your flash drive, meaning the file is being read. Additionally, the PC is supposed to beep occasionally during the process, but mine didn't during my tests.

I just tried, my pendrive has a LED indicator, and it didn't blinked a single time.

Just to be sure I hold Win+R for 2 minutes, and then I left I out alone for more 10 minutes. Nothing.

Video:
 

1 hour ago, rusTORK said:

I may suggest try HDMI Monitor Emulator. On laptop first, then on eGPU. 

 

I think i saw here on forum something about one more emergency bios resed spots... under memory modules i think... but i don’t sure.

 

HDMI Monitor Emulator helped me when i played a lot with reviveing iGPU (no luck, bu the way). 

I tried connecting an actual display on the Laptop HDMI, also no video.

There is no SSD/HDD, no Wifi module, and nothing connected to the miniSATA or Ultrabay slot. There is only the 2 DIMM connected to the laptop.

I will buy another SO-DDR3 on ebay and try it

36 minutes ago, High_Voltage said:

@AllanDavidson Have you tried performing Crisis Recovery? If not, I would strongly recommend you do. You can find instructions here, under the "If things don't go right" spoiler. For that you will need any FAT32 flash drive, with this file written to it. Any flash drive will do, although I recommend using one that has an LED for activity indication. It will let you know whether the PC is reading the file and thus whether the reflash process has been initiated.

 

Also, the keyboard backlight behaviour doesn't seem like a typical BIOS problem. Are you able to adjust keyboard backlight brightness by pressing Fn+Space?

 

No effect when pressing power button is strange, too. Does it behave like that even if you remove the OS HDD? Can you try that if you haven't already?

1. I did not, because I was dumb enough to reset the boot options after everything was running ok for a couple months. The pendrive will not boot. But I will try anyways.

2. The laptop screen is always OFF, and not On-But-Blank. It does not turn On, never.

3. I think everytime I press the Power key, the fan spins a lot faster, but I'm note sure, need to verify.

In August last year, after a Geforce Driver update, I started to have some artifacts and cold boots with disabled eGPU (demanding a restart), so then I changed something in the BIOS setup (something like "Enable internal graphics" from "auto" to "always), and then I got a black screen on boot forever. It doesn't matter what I tried, nothing worked. I disassembled and reassembled it several times, shorted the CMOS, changed TIM, leaved without power and battery for 6 months straight and it still doens't work. I tried pretty much everything, even blind bios reset (following the instructions on another thread), but nothing.

Here is the step-by-step (No battery, HDD/SSD or eGPU connected)
1. I press the power button
2. The power LED goes ON
3. The keyboard baklight goes ON for 1 second, and then goes OFF
4. The CPU/GPU fan goes ON

5. Screen is black
6. After 5 seconds I can feel some heat coming out of the left side
5. After 10 seconds the screen is still OFF
7. Pressing the Power button (apparently) does nothing
8. Pressing (or holding) the Delete, F2, or Ctrl+Alt+Del (apparently) does nothing
9. After holding the power button for 5 seconds the laptop turns OFF as it should

10. Turning the laptop on holding Delete or F2 also does nothing

Should I throw it in the trash bin?

On 11/26/2018 at 10:26 PM, Klem said:

If you laptop can start's, booting in Windows, but with black/blank display, then it means that you can reset the BIOS to default settings blindly.

Try completely disable laptop with press and hold Power/Start button. Then:

1. Press and hold F2 key
2. Turn laptop on. ( still hold F2 key)

3. Wait 5-7 sec, then release F2 key.

3. Press F9, then press Enter key.
4. Press F10, then press Enter key.
5. The  laptop restarts and now all should be good. 

 

Also 100% worked method:

Pull out all RAM modules, enable laptop without all RAM modules. Then disable laptop. Then temporarily insert only one different RAM module (with another memory size or different manufacturer), and start laptop. After these steps bios should be reset to default settings.

After a Geforce update I started to have some artifacts and bootups with disabled eGPU, so then I changed something in the BIOS setup (something like "Enable internal graphics" from "auto" to "always), and then now I got a black screen. I disassembled and reassembled it several times, shorted the CMOS, and nothing. I tried pretty much everything, even blind bios reset (following the motherboard manual), but I think the procedure is different than the modded BIOS.

After a couple days I just had enough and built a Desktop. This happened 7 months ago, btw.

Will try this tonight.

I just plugged the GTX 970, and it's working!

Thank you @High_Voltage for the BIOS, and Thank you @gerald for the adapter!

 








_________________________________________________________________

Now, how can I COMPLETELY DISABLE the internal GT750m?

The GPU is still powered and spreading heat (helping throttle the CPU).
Every time I try to make a test with the CPU the GT750m is there on the way.

Thank you

On 8/18/2018 at 10:08 AM, intruder said:

 

From "Device Manager". Yesterday i borrowed my friends 1050 Ti (without power connector) and it worked perfectly with internal screen. 

 

@High_VoltageThanks a lot for the BIOS mod.

 

 

There was another user who reported that 3M riser cable worked fine. Take a look at the ultrabay thread for more info.

You mean, from Windows Device Manager?

I just plugged the GTX 970, and (looks like) it's working!

Thank you @High_Voltage for the BIOS, and Thank you @gerald for the adapter!

@Swung Huang did a functional one, but his prototype was using expensive PCI-E cables.

How do I disable the internal GT750m to use the IGP + eGPU ?

@Onepamopa, I just brought one with the original maker, @gerald

On 31/07/2018 at 12:52 PM, gerald said:

yes, [email protected]

 

I'm sending right now.

On 7/11/2018 at 1:12 PM, doyouevenbinary said:

Hi guys, a question for those of you who now have a beefy eGPU in your y510p. Is your CPU now bottle-necking your system? What cooling/overclocking steps have you taken and what has the result been? Thanks in advance

There are some dudes here with a GTX 1070 on the adapter.

The CPU will sure bottleneck it as much as a i7 4770k running at 2.4GHz ~ 3.4GHz.

Read my previous post about cooling.

@Marvin Take a look at this test I've done past week.
 

Up.

I'm running a recently cleaned Y510 (modded BIOS) with 4700MQ with TG Kryonaut on both CPU and GPU.

I set the CPU on XTU to 36x/35x/34x/34x @ -0.100v, Cache 36x @ 0.065v.

In games, It starts with 3.4 GHz and after sometime it drops to default 2.4 GHz.

On Prime95 v29.4 b8, It starts with 3.0 GHz (45w / Current Limit), and after 4.5 minutes it reaches 90°C, and the clock reduces to 2.4 GHz, and it stays stable. I stop the test after 15 minutes.

While I am trying to solve the Current Limit issue, I just brought a CPU Exhaust to (try) reduce the temps.
https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Auto-Temp-Detection-2600-5000RPM-Nintendo/dp/B01NACVLWM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1530076965&sr=8-4&keywords=OPOLAR



________________________________

UPDATE: The Exhaust really works, at Prime95 the throttle jumped from 4.5 minutes mark to 6 minutes (it goes reasonably for 5 minutes, then the temps go crazy). 1 minute after hitting the 90°C throttle the temps go down to 69°C, allowing the clock to go up to 3.0 GHz again.

1) Using only Prime95: I run it for ~30 minutes, totally stable. The temps vary between 69°C (3.0 GHz kicks in) and 90°C (2.4 GHz throttle).

2) Using only GPUz Stress tool: After 15 minutes running the test, the CPU is stable at 3.45 GHz @ 69°C, and the GPU is stable at 59°C.

3) Prime95 and GPUz without the Exhaust: The CPU reaches 90°C and the GPU reaches 97°C, both start to trottle (the CPU goes even down to 800 MHz) and after 8 minutes the PC shutdowns.

4) Prime95 and GPUz with the Exhaust: I ran the test for 15 minutes. The CPU was stable at 2.40 GHz @ 72°C, and the GPU was Stable at 64°C.


________________________________

UPDATE 2: After some test, and I figure out that the clock limit to my setup is 2.80 GHz (28x on 4 cores) during Prime95 Max Temp stress test, where the CPU maintain the clocks between 84°C ~ 86°C without throttling. If I set the multiplier to 29x, it reaches 90°C and throttles.

I still have to make some tests in games and with a external GPU (the internal GPU being totally disabled).

On 19/06/2018 at 11:49 AM, gerald said:

Hi,

 

I still have some adapters.

Pls pay €95,- (incl. €25,- for int. shipping) to my PayPal account. ([email protected]).

I will send the adapter within a few days.

 

A GTX1080 does work with the latest BIOS upgrade -> the upgrade procedure is described in this forum.

 

Is it possible to attach a 2.5" HDD on the ODD-Sata using the current version of your adapter?

I just installed this modified v3.08 BIOS and I can't change the Main GPU voltage on NV INSPECTOR.

Do I need to change the VBIOS on the main GPU?

Is the AC 7260 the best adapter possible on y510p?

I'm currently using the Intel Wireless-N 7260.

1 hour ago, Swung Huang said:

The female connector i mentioned above. But actually I'm not willing to design a new adapter above it... So... it's your turn, guys.

If you use a set of females and males Ultrabay adapters, you will still need a good cable between them.

It looks like your adapter is still the best way to do it, even though the cable is expensive.

Looks like the cable is the problem.

5 hours ago, NAVIBOY said:

If someone is willing to make this 2 in 1 mod and sell. you got buyers here.. 

" just curious if this setup can run new nvidia volta card.. "

Probably. As soon as it is PCI-Express, I think it will be ok                        ^{(but I might be wrong)}

1 hour ago, Swung Huang said:

Well... I found the female connector of ultrabay. part No.2199022-1. But i'm probably not gonna produce one of that... So good luck!

Hell no! It would be very expensive and unnecessary, just one single male adapter is required to send the data to the laptop, the rest can be made with other connectors.

This is a very expensive 3M PCI-Express Extender, and they use 30 AWG .025" cables.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/8KC3-0726-0500/3M12026-ND/3641403


These wires are 24 AWG, and are cheap.
https://www.discount-low-voltage.com/Cable/Cat3-Telephone-Wire-Cable/BC3RI5024GYCO?gclid=Cj0KCQjwodrXBRCzARIsAIU59TJsjAsKsmUtyWH9iUvtiAyGwcx-6VUBCw5c-hIz3pYULxNrHd-qkfcaAl6XEALw_wcB




______


I was also thinking about making things simpler, since the cable is expensive and the connectors are not trusty. Have 2 PCBs, one on top of the other (almost like you already did).

2 PCBs, one for the Ultrabay adapter, and one for the Sata HDD. This way it would be possible to plug-in or plug-out the Adapter (black board on image) without plugin-out the HDD (green board on image).




OR this black PCB can be just your adapter with a handle that make it easier to pull it and push (without messing with the SATA HDD)

18 minutes ago, Swung Huang said:

My thought is the same as you. But how to do about the EXPOSED CONNECTOR? How about the signal integrity? What's the connector should be used? PCIE is specially designed. That's why I designed them as directly soldered to the board... I DID experienced signal degradation when using these random connectors. They just don't work well.

The pics are the cables I used. They are really not cheap.

These are 30 AWG right? IIRC, Network cables (like Cat5e RJ45) are 30 AWG, the shielding may vary.

Depending on how many wires are really needed to make it work, some standard cables might do it.

I found this looking for many-pin cables. They are Dell PowerEDGE server cables.



https://www.ebay.com/p/Dell-POWEREDGE-Pe750-Cable-60-Pin-Dd0s20th003-12-Inches-X1026/1362838324

Enjoy my madddzzz skilllzzz at Ms Paint.

(I know I'm bad at it)

17 minutes ago, Swung Huang said:

not just pins. Interference and stability is also concerned.

So, cables like these are not trustworthy?


 

@Swung Huang are 60pin enough?

https://www.reichelt.com/de/en/Header-and-Tray-Plugs/PSL-60/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=7437&ARTICLE=14878






______
These aew in "L" shape, also very cheap

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172012657356?rmvSB=true