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High_Voltage

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High_Voltage last won the day on December 15 2018

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  1. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    So, If you haven't already, you could try such options in BIOS as: 1) Disabling Wake-on-LAN 2) Disabling the Always-ON function on the right USB port If that doesn't help, you can check whether the other supply voltages on the adapter power off correctly (there's also 5V and 19V). If they do, you can use them to detect power-on and off instead.
  2. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    Hm, I don't see any difference to my own schematic I made following Gerald's designs. Can you measure PSU_ON voltage with the laptop on and off? Does it always stay 3.3V, or could it be that it drops, but not completely to zero? In order to set aside any suspicion on BIOS settings, you could try with original BIOS and an AMD card, for example. Or with Nvidia, and just wait until the laptop powers itself off-
  3. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    Try disabling wake-on-LAN if it is enabled. Also, if you share your final schematic, I could have a look.
  4. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    This is a good point as well. Originally, the CPU and GPU heatpipes run isolated and only meet at the radiator of the heatsink. If you are running an eGPU setup, your dGPU is idling, therefore you can harness heat transfer capacity of the second heatpipe to reduce CPU temperatures. I've definitely seen it done somewhere (maybe even on this forum). The guy has smudged thermal paste between the two heatpipes, allowing the second one to participate in heat extraction from the CPU, and reported a very significant decrease in CPU temps. I would imagine that this idea can be improved on by using better thermal compounds, such as thermally-conductive epoxy (very reliable but brittle and not very high thermal conductivity) or thermally-conductive silicone glue (the white rubbery stuff you find inside electronics). The ultimate solution would be to try soldering them together with some low melting point solder, like indium (157°C) or Rose's alloy (94°C).
  5. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    On my Y510p whenever I ran something like Prime95, the CPU would immediately heat up to 90 degrees C (very briefly, but you could see a maximum value captured in e.g. HWMonitor), and then cut the turbo completely, settling at 2.4GHz. Don't remember GPU load affecting the CPU in any way as long as temperatures were normal. Right after I noticed this and read that it's impossible to control fans directly in any way on this machine (other than repeatedly calling the dust cleaning option, which some people have actually written scripts for) I had this idea to build a custom fan controller. I imagined it as a small package microcontroller (e.g. Atmel ATtiny85v), which would be installed between the fan and the motherboard by cutting the PWM wire. The chip would read motherboard-supplied PWM duty cycle and map it using a lookup table into a custom fan profile, generating appropriate PWM for the fan. Never actually gotten to implementing this, though. As for thermal interfaces, I tried Arctic MX-4, but it doesn't seem to help much. There appears to be a design flaw with coldpads not being pushed to the chips with enough force, especially on the ultrabay GPU. I can very well see how liquid metal with its vastly superior thermal conductivity would make a big difference. Also, I've read about people getting good temperatures by installing thin copper shims from Aliexpress between the heatsink and the chips. Speaking of 60fps cap, could it be just VSync?
  6. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    @Bronius First of all, find where to buy an ultrabay connector, and buy one. Then, order a PCB from China (not very expensive). Get all the rest from Ebay or Aliexpress and solder everything together! @rusTORK You've actually made a really good point here about 1600/2000-series cards. Has anyone tested any of them?
  7. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    And speaking of the adapters, I would say that getting them made sounds quite realistic to me. The conditions are favourable. We just need someone willing to invest their time and money to get this done. Speaking of PCB design, I'm pretty sure @gerald, @Swung Huang or @Zakyn will be more than happy to share, should we get this going. Let's say there's 50 people willing to buy an adapter for $100. One can get 50pcs 4-layer 10x15cm impedance-rated PCBs from JLCPCB for just above $100 + shipping + import tax. Let shipping + tax be like $50. The connector is currently $6.14/piece with free international shipping here (correct me if this is a wrong connector). Other components (PCIe slot, PSU connector, SMDs), let's say another $10 per adapter. We're getting about $1000 in expenses + manual labor with a perspective of earning $5000. Good question now is how many people would actually be ready to buy one right now, considering the Y510p is already a really old machine?
  8. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    @Drozof You can only use M.2 for PCIe if the socket supports NVMe. This laptop supports M.2 SATA only, therefore your only option other than using the adapter would be plugging a PCIe x1 cable instead of the wireless card.
  9. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    Also a reminder: this should be done without battery installed. Also, try the clean formatted FAT32 drive with JUST the Yx01 file on it. If that doesn't help, then this is probably a hardware problem.
  10. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    @AllanDavidson Did you follow the instructions thoroughly? I mean using the correct USB port, correct power plug-in procedure etc? Regardless, flash LED not blinking a single time is a very bad sign. Could be that your PCH has died. Not sure if there's an easy way to test this at home, but any decent laptop repair shop would have no problem diagnosing something like that. Also, you should verify that you RAM works in some other PC (or put some known-good in this one).
  11. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    @AllanDavidson The crisis recovery disk has nothing to do with booting from flash drive. It is a very low level recovery mechanism built into (possibly) the Intel ME firmware, which allows PC to read raw binary BIOS file (which is what the file I linked essentially is) and rewrite its own BIOS completely even in case it has been totally corrupted. During the Crisis recovery you WILL NOT SEE anything on the screen. Your only indication that the process is happening will be the blinking of the access LED on your flash drive, meaning the file is being read. Additionally, the PC is supposed to beep occasionally during the process, but mine didn't during my tests.
  12. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    @AllanDavidson Have you tried performing Crisis Recovery? If not, I would strongly recommend you do. You can find instructions here, under the "If things don't go right" spoiler. For that you will need any FAT32 flash drive, with this file written to it. Any flash drive will do, although I recommend using one that has an LED for activity indication. It will let you know whether the PC is reading the file and thus whether the reflash process has been initiated. Also, the keyboard backlight behaviour doesn't seem like a typical BIOS problem. Are you able to adjust keyboard backlight brightness by pressing Fn+Space? No effect when pressing power button is strange, too. Does it behave like that even if you remove the OS HDD? Can you try that if you haven't already?
  13. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    Oh, I was talking about the connector that the gpu is inserted into, not the ultrabay one.
  14. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    The schematic looks good. I can't see any mistakes. Have a look at your PCB and make sure everything is routed correctly. One pitfall I could think of is the footprint for eGPU PCI-E connector. When you look at it from the top, with that smaller section facing up, the B will be on your left, and the A - on your right, which is counter-intuitive when compared to the schematic symbol. Another question is whether you've actually tested that GPU with another computer to verify that it works?
  15. High_Voltage

    Y510p Ultrabay Graphics card

    Do you have a schematic of what you've built? Double-check the pinout of pcie and whether all the signals are routed correctly. Check whether your Reset signal is ok. Also, did you use a high speed PCB and if you did, did you calculate RF impedance of the differential pairs correctly? I think it needs 100 Ohms per pair. Anyway, if the issue was in signal integrity, I would at least expect the card to be detected, so the problem is somewhere else... Also, are both 12v and 3v correctly supplied to the card's pcie slot?
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