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High_Voltage last won the day on December 15 2018

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  1. @camwhaler I think this should be possible, as the multiplexers are controlled from the PCH, and not from EC. Might have a look into that a bit later. However, why not consider modifying the hardware? Forcing that multiplexer into a desired state is a matter of desoldering a couple of resistors. Edit: For example, removing RH161 and RH171 should force HDMI output to be permanently connected to Nvidia GPU.
  2. This sounds very much like a hardware-related problem. Not sure if it actually matters what engine the game you're playing is using. Seems like the GPU just crashes or malfunctions in some other way intermittently. I would start with un-plugging both adapter and the GPU itself and blowing the connectors with plenty of compressed air before reassembly. Additionally, you should check the soldering on both ends of the adapter for cracks or other defects. Then, I would recommend to try replacing the power supply. It would be my number one suspect at the moment as you've mentioned that more demanding games at higher settings generally crash more. Moreover, other people here have also seen intermittent issues due to what turned out to be a bad PSU. I hope that helps. Please let me know about any progress with the issue.
  3. I would immediately forget about any solutions without power supply: While it's true that the GTX 1650 runs at just 75W and therefore doesn't need any additional power connectors, 75W is still a lot. Even though the GT 750M is rated for 50W TDP, while GTX 1650 is 75W, I think it would be still possible to run it without a power supply, but this would need some additional work: The stock ultrabay gpu receives most of its power from the 19V line, which you will have to convert to 12V using an efficient and powerful enough step-down converter that will have to be integrated onto the ultrabay adapter's PCB. The PCIe slot on the original ultrabay adapter actually receives power from the 24pin motherboard connector, which means you will still need a power supply for it to work.
  4. They are mostly identical, except mine disables a shutdown if Nvidia egpu is inserted. I think this only affects ultrabay though, therefore you may be successful with svl7's one using an exp gdc.
  5. So, If you haven't already, you could try such options in BIOS as: 1) Disabling Wake-on-LAN 2) Disabling the Always-ON function on the right USB port If that doesn't help, you can check whether the other supply voltages on the adapter power off correctly (there's also 5V and 19V). If they do, you can use them to detect power-on and off instead.
  6. Hm, I don't see any difference to my own schematic I made following Gerald's designs. Can you measure PSU_ON voltage with the laptop on and off? Does it always stay 3.3V, or could it be that it drops, but not completely to zero? In order to set aside any suspicion on BIOS settings, you could try with original BIOS and an AMD card, for example. Or with Nvidia, and just wait until the laptop powers itself off-
  7. Try disabling wake-on-LAN if it is enabled. Also, if you share your final schematic, I could have a look.
  8. This is a good point as well. Originally, the CPU and GPU heatpipes run isolated and only meet at the radiator of the heatsink. If you are running an eGPU setup, your dGPU is idling, therefore you can harness heat transfer capacity of the second heatpipe to reduce CPU temperatures. I've definitely seen it done somewhere (maybe even on this forum). The guy has smudged thermal paste between the two heatpipes, allowing the second one to participate in heat extraction from the CPU, and reported a very significant decrease in CPU temps. I would imagine that this idea can be improved on by using better thermal compounds, such as thermally-conductive epoxy (very reliable but brittle and not very high thermal conductivity) or thermally-conductive silicone glue (the white rubbery stuff you find inside electronics). The ultimate solution would be to try soldering them together with some low melting point solder, like indium (157°C) or Rose's alloy (94°C).
  9. On my Y510p whenever I ran something like Prime95, the CPU would immediately heat up to 90 degrees C (very briefly, but you could see a maximum value captured in e.g. HWMonitor), and then cut the turbo completely, settling at 2.4GHz. Don't remember GPU load affecting the CPU in any way as long as temperatures were normal. Right after I noticed this and read that it's impossible to control fans directly in any way on this machine (other than repeatedly calling the dust cleaning option, which some people have actually written scripts for) I had this idea to build a custom fan controller. I imagined it as a small package microcontroller (e.g. Atmel ATtiny85v), which would be installed between the fan and the motherboard by cutting the PWM wire. The chip would read motherboard-supplied PWM duty cycle and map it using a lookup table into a custom fan profile, generating appropriate PWM for the fan. Never actually gotten to implementing this, though. As for thermal interfaces, I tried Arctic MX-4, but it doesn't seem to help much. There appears to be a design flaw with coldpads not being pushed to the chips with enough force, especially on the ultrabay GPU. I can very well see how liquid metal with its vastly superior thermal conductivity would make a big difference. Also, I've read about people getting good temperatures by installing thin copper shims from Aliexpress between the heatsink and the chips. Speaking of 60fps cap, could it be just VSync?
  10. @Bronius First of all, find where to buy an ultrabay connector, and buy one. Then, order a PCB from China (not very expensive). Get all the rest from Ebay or Aliexpress and solder everything together! @rusTORK You've actually made a really good point here about 1600/2000-series cards. Has anyone tested any of them?
  11. And speaking of the adapters, I would say that getting them made sounds quite realistic to me. The conditions are favourable. We just need someone willing to invest their time and money to get this done. Speaking of PCB design, I'm pretty sure @gerald, @Swung Huang or @Zakyn will be more than happy to share, should we get this going. Let's say there's 50 people willing to buy an adapter for $100. One can get 50pcs 4-layer 10x15cm impedance-rated PCBs from JLCPCB for just above $100 + shipping + import tax. Let shipping + tax be like $50. The connector is currently $6.14/piece with free international shipping here (correct me if this is a wrong connector). Other components (PCIe slot, PSU connector, SMDs), let's say another $10 per adapter. We're getting about $1000 in expenses + manual labor with a perspective of earning $5000. Good question now is how many people would actually be ready to buy one right now, considering the Y510p is already a really old machine?
  12. @Drozof You can only use M.2 for PCIe if the socket supports NVMe. This laptop supports M.2 SATA only, therefore your only option other than using the adapter would be plugging a PCIe x1 cable instead of the wireless card.
  13. Also a reminder: this should be done without battery installed. Also, try the clean formatted FAT32 drive with JUST the Yx01 file on it. If that doesn't help, then this is probably a hardware problem.
  14. @AllanDavidson Did you follow the instructions thoroughly? I mean using the correct USB port, correct power plug-in procedure etc? Regardless, flash LED not blinking a single time is a very bad sign. Could be that your PCH has died. Not sure if there's an easy way to test this at home, but any decent laptop repair shop would have no problem diagnosing something like that. Also, you should verify that you RAM works in some other PC (or put some known-good in this one).
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