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Found 91 results

  1. So back when I got my P150EM, one of the deciding factors on getting it was that due to optimus/enduro, the battery life was respectable. I wanted the top hardware while still having some mobility. Over time though, the battery became more and more worn out, to the point where I hardly got over an hour of life out of it. New batteries are stupidly expensive, and Clevo used cheap cells for it in the first place. I wasn't paying $100 for a mediocre replacement battery. I decided to pay $50 for top end cells to boost capacity by 30% and get over 6h of battery life. I figured that this could get messy, and luckily a friend let me have his nearly dead P150HM battery for me to have some spare parts. So I swapped the cells, while destroying the plastic battery shell in the process, and got a battery that worked just like it still had the old cells. Figuring I needed to reprogram the EEPROM on the battery pack, I started removing the glue all over the EEPROM chip to get it in my programmer. I stupidly forgot that I was working on a BATTERY, which meant that it was ALWAYS ON, and poured MEK over it, blowing a fuse. After getting pissed off and giving up for a few months, today I gave it another go. I got the EEPROM chip out and started taking guesses at how to reprogram it. If I guessed wrong, good thing the fuse was blown so I don't melt anything. I figured out that battery EEPROM contains the capacity info in terms of mAh for a pair of battery cells. I searched for the default 5200 mAh (1450 in hex) and found it. I then raised this to 6800 mAh (1A90 in hex). It was a success! Nominal battery capacity was now 100640 mAh total. So now I knew I could probably program things right after enough tries. It was now time to get the battery operational again. I bridged the fuse, and the battery came back to life. Sort of. It would charge when off, but not on. It would run, but windows reported no battery drain (infinite energy!?!?!?!?). In short, the battery EEPROM was not being updated at all as the battery state changed. I was under the impression that if Ilet it charge, it would not stop until overvoltage protection kicked in, and if I let it discharge, it would not turn off until the system BIOS detected an undervoltage scenario, which is far below the safe discharge voltage of the battery. I figured for the time I'd just let it be and try to get the EEPROM right. Next was looking for the wear capacity. This is the capacity left in the battery as it ages. Using hwinfo64, I got the wear level, converted it to hex, and found it in the EEPROM. I then changed it to only 5% wear instead of 74%. I left some wear because I did let the cells sit for a few months, and I was directly soldering to the cells, which isn't really good for them due to the heat from the iron. This was a success. Current charge % correctly dropped as well. So now I needed to get the battery charging right. My only option was to rip apart my old, but fully functional P150EM battery. I found that the fuse was actually really weird with 3 prongs, and only 2 prongs were supposed to have 0 resistance. I had soldered all 3 together on the P150HM battery. I switched the EEPROM chips and boards, then hoped it would work and not require me to run and get the fire extinguisher. It worked! The battery is now charging properly as I type this. It also discharges right too. It looks like the laptop will try to overcharge it a bit since the current charge % was a little low vs reality, but that should just give it a little extra wear, with the charge % being calibrated properly at 100%. I'm not sure how I'm going to get that back in the shell... Continue discussion in original thread here.
  2. Prema Mod™ BIOS & vBIOS Make sure to select the correct version for your model and follow the included "README" text file! Use the reset & recovery instructions in case of any problems. You can now also purchase your Notebook directly with Prema Mod from one of our Partner Shops and receive Mods & updates ahead of the public! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Password for all files: premamod.com or biosmods.wordpress.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- All my mods are DONATIONWARE and for your personal use only! THX & ENJOY! P-SERIES (v)BIOS >>> SECOND POST <<< W-SERIES (v)BIOS >>> THIRD POST <<< MXM vBIOS & MORE >>> FORTH POST <<<
  3. You want to reset your CMOS battery, fit some extra RAM or that new GPU into your system? You want to order a spare and need the correct part number? You got a new soldering station and want to mess with your motherboard and need to know what that funny chip is that just popped off? Here you go, service manuals for the most famous Clevo models! More to come... ENJOY! P15xEM_ESM.zip P170EM_ESM.zip P175EM_ESM.zip P370EMx_ESM.zip P570WMx_ESM.zip P180HM_ESM.zip P170HMx_ESM.zip P15xHM_ESM.zip W110ER_ESM.zip W350ET_ESM.zip W370ET_ESM.zip W370ST_ESM.zip W350STQ_ESM.zip P157SM_ESM.zip P150SM_ESM.zip P170SM_ESM.zip P177SM_ESM.zip W230ST_ESM.zip P370SM3_ESM.zip P375SM_ESM.zip P370SM_ESM.zip W740SU_ESM.zip X7200_ESM.zip W230SS_ESM.zip W350SSQ_ESM.zip W355SSQ_ESM.zip W370SSQ_ESM.zip P177SM-A_ESM.zip P170SM-A_ESM.zip P157SM-A_ESM.zip P150SM-A_ESM.zip P377SM-A_ESM.zip P370SM-A_ESM.zip P375SM-A_ESM.zip P65XSE_ESM.zip P67XSG_ESM.zip P67XSE_ESM.zip P65XSG_ESM.zip P75xZM_ESM.zip P770ZM_ESM.zip P65XSA_ESM.zip P67XSA_ESM.zip N170SD_ESM.zip W230SD_ESM.zip P77xDM(-G)_ESM.zip P75xDM(-G)_ESM.zip N170RD_ESM.zip N150RD_ESM.zip
  4. Hi all, After I saw this result: http://hwbot.org/submission/2830783_0.0_cpu_frequency_core_i7_4700mq_4550_mhz , I got interested to replicate it with a similar method and decided to share my steps to score higher than a desktop 4.4ghz 4770k (according to cinebench ;)) Intel Stock microcode has a Turbo multiplier bin glitch that allows unlimited multiplier increase, I used prema's bios and removed a cpu microcode update to let the cpu run the stock glitched microcode. I will share the bios file, use it at your own responsibility and if you know what you are doing. 1) Download or dump your BIOS, if your bios is ami (my case) then use AFUWINx64 2) Get AMI Aptio UEFI MMTool v5.0.0.7 and UEFITool, HxD (or your fav hex editor) 3) Open your BIOS image with UEFITool, then File>Search, in our case Haswell has the following ID: , enter C3 06 03 in Hex pattern dialog click OK 4) You can see the last four Hex pattern result, double click the first result and a structure item in the main dialog will be highlighted, right click>Extract as-is to a folder (be sure to be neat and organized or you will mess things up) 5) Do the same with the third result and save it as a diff name other than the first one 6) Now in the folder you have saved the 2 files from step 4&5, open the first one with HxD(any hex editor) and look for be sure to choose Datatype:Hex-values then hit search 7) Press F3 to find again till you reach this pattern(highlighted): 8) (1) Indicates the microcode version, 17 in this case, we want 00 (cpu stock), (2) the platform ID (the search context we reached at) (3) the microcode length = 5000 (in my case) in reverse (important to know when the microcode ends in order to remove). 9) Adjust the cursor on the beginning of the highlight text/microcode (01) right click>Select Block>Length>5000 or whatever in your case 10) Delete the highlighted blocks (after step 9) then save the file 11) Do the same with the second result from step 3 to 10 then save 12) go back to UEFITool, double click the first result like you did in step 4, right click the highlighted structure in the main dialogue > Replace as-is then choose the FIRST file you edited in HxD 13) Double click the third result and follow step 12 with the SECOND file you edited in HxD 14) You will see "Rebuild" in action row, File>Save image as> P15SM04.PM2 in my case (can be any name as long as your flashing tool recognize it) 15) Open AMI Aptio MMTool > Load Image > your modified rom > CPU Patch Tab and verify there is no 06C3 in CPU ID 16) Be brave and flash your BIOS Windows Mod to remove auto update microcode on boot: Click on Start Type CMD in the Search box Right-click on CMD and choose Run as Administrator In the Command Prompt window and change to the directory where the file is located. To do this, use the CD command. You can follow the example below. to change to the Windows\System32 directory you would enter the following command and Press Enter cd \windows\system32 Now use the DEL command to delete the offending file. Type DEL mcupdate_GenuineIntel (and backup) Done! Overclocking: 1) Check CPU MCID:Download AIDA64 , open AIDA64>Motherboard>CPUID and look at IA Brand ID, it should be 00h 2) Download the latest beta Throttlestop (not stable) in my case 810b2 3) Make sure you don't have XTU installed or running (especially at startup) or it will reset any changes in Throttlestop 4) Open throttlestop, click FIVR and look at "[checkbox] Overclock [DIALOG] Max" and note it down 5) Now here is the magic! close FIVR and open it again, [DIALOG] Max value should increase by 2 (up to 80x max ~ 8ghz) everytime you open and close FIVR aslong as long as you increase one of the cores, LOL 6) Increase "Set multiplier" to maximum after your final changes in FVIR (Iv set mine to 42x all cores, so I increased set multiplier to 42 aswell - note voltage ID is messed up ignore it) 7) Increase voltage in FVIR for stability by using cinebench run 3 times instead of prime95, as it stresses FPU which increases heat and tdp instead... 8) Unlock maximum TDP and turbo wattage in TPL, in my case: 9) Done! Changes should be persistent as long as you dont save and exit from BIOS, here is my result in Cinebench with temp throttling (from 4.3 to 3.9 ghz), room temp 25-27 XD: (no.1 at 4.2ghz, no.7 stock latest microcode) UPDATE: OCed RAM from 1600 to 1866, cpu@4.3Ghz, +200mV adaptive vcore: I'm also getting 852 with 4.5ghz with this adaptive voltage-like method: Note: You can maintain maximum turbo multiplier bin with latest microcode after setting it in throttlestop (imp: no crash when testing; make sure its stable) then flash the latest microcode for bug fixes (more stable on my side at x45 with only +230mv, depends on your CPU, i7-4800+ will require less voltage), and you will still be able to set the bin high (up to 80x) as long as you don't crash... Post your results and I'll copy it here. Tips: I highly recommend lapping heatsink and use liquid metal thermal paste or any decent tp ( I used collaboratory liquid ultra) before doing this -If your cpu throttles no matter what, try decreasing dynamic voltage in FVIR and look at maximum value the package power indicate while stressing, decrease the value by 10% in order to avoid rapid throttling (happens with bad TP) -Do not attempt the OC if you are looking after long service life wear&tear (I expect 2 years from now if I stress the cpu everyday for an hour, which i never do :P) Happy overclocking, and don't melt your laptop Thanks to Intel if they leaked this on purpose, kinda futureproofed my machine XD P150SM 1.03.05 modded bios (at your own risk): MOD EDIT: link removed, please use a clean BIOS base because of legal implications with Intel :
  5. Please follow the instructions below. • Specs. • Device manager ->Display Adapters ->Details ->Device Description ->Hardware Ids, post results (request). - Extract downloaded driver using 7-Zip/winrar. - Extracted Nvidia...International\Display.Driver folder\ -> copy/overwrite nvdmi.inf - Nvidia...International folder\ -> run setup.exe - Windows 8 - disable driver signing Command Prompt (Admin) Win key + X Type: bcdedit /set {current} testsigning yes -> "The operation completed successfully" ->reboot ->Install drivers. Exit test mode, cmd (admin). bcdedit /set {current} testsigning no ->reboot. - Use DDU to remove previous drivers/GPU installations (Nvidia & AMD), create restore point then select first uninstall option (safe mode). GeForce 334.89 WHQL Modded nvdmi.inf v334.89 AW M17XR2/R3/R4 3D + M18XR1/R2 GTX 680M / 780M Modded nvdmi.inf v334.89 AW M18XR1/R2 GTX 680M / 780M SLI Enabled - - - Updated - - - Quadro Notebook Driver 334.95 PhysX 9.13.1220 - Extract - Nvidia...International folder\ -> delete the following folders: Display.NView Display.Update Display.Optimus NVWMI - Display.Driver copy/overwrite nvdmwi.inf - Nvidia...International\ -> run setup exe - Install Physx -> reboot Fire Strike NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-3940XM,Alienware M17xR4 [ nvdmwi.inf_v334.95_AW_M17XR2_R3_R4_3D_M18XR1_R2_GTX_680M_780M.zip nvdmwi.inf_v334.95_AW_M18XR1_R2_GTX_680M_780M_SLI_Enabled.zip
  6. Hi, I have upgraded my P170EM with a 970M a couple of years ago. I used the vBIOS from @Prema and his v2 BIOS. Has shown on many thread, the v3 bios is not public and I have to stick with the v2 so I modded my infs for upgrading my nvidia drivers. Upgrading from win7 to win10 was quite difficult and after many tries and fails, I managed to get a v359.13 version working properly. I modded the inf by myseft experiencing methods grabbed from many sources. I must say that this is not as simple as some says... Every version, the infs to be modded changes and sometimes it works, sometime it don't. I then try to work with @J95, posting my difficulties on his inf mod dedicated thread. All his releases are dedicated to "non-optimus" clevo laptop and thus are not working out of the box with my P170EM. He kindly tried many hacks to make his modded drivers work with the P170EM without success. The only thing that work completly today is the v359.13.... And I had to revert back from the win10 anniversary edition to have at least the discrete GPU to be active. All my tries on drivers differents from 359.13 on non-anniversary edition of win10 would have the dx10/11 not working on discrete GPU or the dx9 not working on discrete GPU. I can't count the hours I spent DDU my drivers, modding, trying, failing, retring.... This is a real hassle. Now I don't even want to try the new driver... But sometime I need to upgrade, especially for the optimisation available for the new games I can buy. That's why I'm asking @Prema whether he could think about releasing the v3 BIOS for P170EM public ? I would also be OK with the option to be able to purchase it for a reasonable price. Thanks in advance for your reply !
  7. Hy everone! Is there a unlocked vbios for the GTX 675M for under-, overvolting? Or is there a Programm for Nvidia vbios Editing? I Have only found One for AMD Chips and the newer Kepler Chips but none for Fermi. I`m using a Clevo P150EM if that is important. Thanks halo19fan89
  8. Hello guys, I wanted to give my older laptop a bit of kick. It's a W150ER (XMG A502) laptop with GT 650M. I got the GDC for mPCIe wifi slot, EVGA GTX 1060 and 450W Corsair PSU. But I need some help. 1. With everything wired up, having green LED on GDC device the eGPU wasn't recognized in device manager. eGPU fan was just wiggling in roughly 2s intervals. 2. I tried to hotswap from wifi to GDC as described in troubleshoot post, that made the system load the GTX 1060. Fan got spinning few seconds after swap and then turned off. Now what I got is the code 43 error and fans not spinning at all. Tried several ways that I found to overcome that, including installing older driver. During one of the installation attempts I actually got the external monitor loaded for few second before installation ended with error (still no fan spinning, even though the GTX 1060 got a bit warm). After failing to install the driver, GTX 1060 disappears from Display adapters and is available after restart again with error. Can anyone help me to get it working? What's with the fan? I'm kinda worried about it. Thank you very much!
  9. Hello everyone. I've been reading the forums for quite a while now, and I can't even describe how helpful everyone at techinferno is. It's time for my first post and my question is towards the GPU vBios and Alienware/Clevo gurus here at techinferno. I've bought a barebone Origin EON 15-X (Clevo p750dm) it's the Skylake version. I also have an MSI GTX970m 6GB which doesn't seem to be working when installed in the 15-X (black screen not even backlight, only the keyboard backlight is working, no fans are spinning and there are no beeps). I think it might be due to the MSI vBios. I want to try to flash the card with a Clevo vBios (thanks to Prema) and see if the card would then work. I was hoping I can use my trusty M18x r2 for that task. In the primary GPU slot I've got my 7970m and in the slave slot I've put the 970m. When I power the laptop and go to the bios, it only shows "ATI GFX" for "Discrete Graphics 1 and for "Discrete Graphics 2" shows "Not Detected". I've tried booting to Windows and checked the device manager, same thing only the 7970m is listed. I'm not sure if what I'm trying to do is even possible. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
  10. What is up. Emailed Sager about latest bios and they sent me one. Suppose to provide support for Kabby lake 7XXX series processors as well as optimization for crappy WIFI cards that aka (cough cough KILLER) le'ts not point fingers here XD. File is below. Gotta flash through USB... there are plenty tutorials out there how to do but here are instruction from the email I got. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_Ud_l2en4O0MGw0WWJCaXFUS0E Rename the attached file to 9870BV08LS2.7z(Done it for you already) Unzip the 9870BV08LS2.7z to a USB flash drive. Restart Windows. When the screen turns black, keep tapping F7. Select enter setup on the boot menu. Pull down the exit menu in the CMOS setup. Launch EFI shell from filesystem device. The Startup.nsh will flash the BIOS. Note. Sager Computer does not take the responsibility if the computer does not work after you updated the system BIOS & firmware by yourself. ( Neither do I) Enjoy
  11. Hei guys ! Really need help. I have notebook, motherboard CLEVO W240HU. the BIOS from American Megatrend Inc. When I'm trying to flash my bios. it said "Bios write-proected". How can I disabling it? Thanks
  12. The official Clevo benchmark thread..let the race begin!
  13. Hi all! Figured since there aren't many avenues out there as of yet that properly show how to dissect your phoenix, I'd try to take up the mantle with my own experience in upgrading the LCD panel from FHD 1080 to the 4K panel. Before we get started, I'd like to present a list a useful tools to have beforehand if you intend to pursue this endeavor. I'll be providing pictures of my own tools as well as links to various components you need for purchase if you intend to follow-suit: ATTENTION HUGE PICTURE LOAD AHEAD! Continue discussion of guide here.
  14. Hi guys, I succesfully flashed v2 vbios from prema and I tried 1v and and oc but I couldnt. I think it was power suply. Mine is 230w. And I tried 0.75 0.50 0.25 and 0 volt. But now I m trying game, benchmark screen goes dark and after beeping at 0 volt. Is this a hardware damage? I used just 1v max.(temperature max 70c) I tried cmos reset DDU Xtu uninstall And come back to stock vbios I think my card is dying Please help me!
  15. Hi, I have a Clevo P170EM with an AMD 7970M. Last year I tried to change the vBIOS of my 7970M, a friend of my tried to change it because he wanted to ''overlock'' the card. He said no worries I said okay do it, then later on he returned my laptop and bricked both my card and the normal BIOS. I had to repair the laptop trough a repair company in the city. They only could repair the BIOS by doing another BIOS on it. They said to try everything with the card but my laptop wouldn't accept it. The problem: After the Windows 10 installation I installed all the drivers from the manufacters site (http://www.eurocom.com/ec/drivers(226)ec). Including the SSD driver, then I FIRST installed and fully updated the Intel HD Graphics. After that I installed the AMD videocard drivers (crimsons edition), the weird part is, AMD autodetect sees my card and so does Windows. Then the driver ask me to restart my laptop, after restarting the Windows logo appears then the screen goes black with a blinking cursor left upper screen. I believe it has someting to do with the vBIOS of the card and I also believe that the card is not bricked but just wrong BIOS. I asked the manufacter and they say that the card may be bricked, when I ask for the BIOS they would not provide it for free (bastards). I asked for both the motherboard and AMD card BIOS, they said I have to pay for it. Question: Can someone provide information and files for the right vBIOS? I mean the vBIOS that is standard. Greetz, Jamie P.s I have some pictures and screenshot of Windows and the BIOS detecting the graphic card, the weird thing is both OS and BIOS detect the card but when I install the drivers it goes black P.s.s I already tried everything AMD support provided so I have no use for comments like ''Try unistall with DDU'' or try with second monitor etc. As you can see I've disabled the card because when I enable, Windows freezes and screen goes black.
  16. Does anybody know if the P370em mainboard or (Prema) BIOS will support a 4k display? I see another Clevo model with a how-to for the 4k display upgrade with links to a 40pin connector adapter that seems to make it plug-and-play. It seems like this should also be feasible for the P370em given the pin connector is compatible and the OS and GPU both support 4k displays... (at least through the HDMI/DisplayPort). Here is the article that details the upgrade. http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/how-to-upgrade-the-phoenix-clevo-p870dm-g-from-fhd-to-4k-picture-guide.787821/ Any thoughts?
  17. I was looking for new drivers for my p750dm2-g and stumbled across this.. [PM me for the link] I thought I'd share.
  18. Hi all! Figured since there aren't many avenues out there as of yet that properly show how to dissect your phoenix, I'd try to take up the mantle with my own experience in upgrading the LCD panel from FHD 1080 to the 4K panel. Before we get started, I'd like to present a list a useful tools to have beforehand if you intend to pursue this endeavor. I'll be providing pictures of my own tools as well as links to various components you need for purchase if you intend to follow-suit: MOD EDIT: ATTENTION HUGE PICTURE LOAD AHEAD!
  19. Hello guys, I am new here so I hope you all having a good day. I will tell my problem without wasting time. Last night, I wanted to upgrade my bios and did exect ways that Prema suggested. After "step2", laptop didnt switched on again, computer doesnt starting. When I press power button, neither fans nor harddisks starting, screen stays off, power led in front blinks 2 times green and computer stays off. I've tried to pull out CMOS battery, unplugged, removed battery, pressed power button 30seconds and assembled they again but computer didnt started either. I am not seeing any booting sequence. How can I recover my computer? If you can help me , I would be so grateful. have A nice day.
  20. Hello earth, WARNING: although this is a semi-guide, what you're about to read isn't for the faint hearted XD, I'm not responsible for any damage, fire, death to your pet etcetera if you attempt to do it... As you may already know, you cannot force custom timings on intel igps, unlike dGPU system only, since Intel IGP cannot do EDID overrides. More about EDID: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_Display_Identification_Data The solution was to dump the EDID which can be done using modeline in windows registry, linux modeline, or dumping directly from the EEPROM (electrically erasable read only memory found physically in most screen logic) which should be straightforward as we need to actually reflash it with our modification simply over i2c interface using arduino (simple 328 with serial-to-usb, can be from 8$ to 25$ max) you can also buy an EEPROM programmer which can be slightly expensive. The screen I have is a CMN1B, Chi . Should also work with AOU 95% gamut screen, any screen with i2c interface to eeprom, you can actually trace it along the 18th and 19th pin from the LVDS cable, however it should be pretty visible. So I ended up (easily), disassembling the screen as per this guide: [GUIDE] How to replace an LCD panel on a Clevo shell (pictures included) | NotebookReview I've then cut the film from both sides then taped for making it easier to work (i.e: instead of cutting EEPROM's pin location): There are 2 EEPROMS in my case, identified it simply by looking at the test point tagging, EE_SC SD etc, should be similar in any other displays: Tip size reference, basically any 15 to 30 watts soldering iron should work, unless the testpoints are tiny on other displays like AUO, though it is least likely you will ever have to desolder the EEPROM chip: Sold'er! Roger that(You can see the EE_* tags, SC for clock, and D for data etc): Connect to my Duino(wire it as you normal i2c): My EDID dumped in Linux before proceding to flash: EDID: 00ffffffffffff000daeb11500000000 01160104902213780231d59f56589527 15505400000001010101010101010101 010101010101963b803271383e405a3c 690058c21000001a9b2580ee70382340 3523350058c21000001a000000fe0056 434d3858024e31353648470a00000000 000041319e0000000002010a20200005 BACKLIGHT: 133 range: (0, 976) Backlight: 133 range: (0, 976) scaling mode: Full aspect supported: None, Full, Center, Full aspect Broadcast RGB: Automatic supported: Automatic, Full, Limited 16:235 audio: auto supported: force-dvi, off, auto, on 1920x1080 (0x4c) 152.5MHz +HSync -VSync *current +preferred h: width 1920 start 2010 end 2070 total 2226 skew 0 clock 68.5KHz v: height 1080 start 1086 end 1095 total 1142 clock 60.0Hz Pasted in Deltacast EDID editor then modified Pixel clock from 152 mhz (60hz calculated in DTD calculator) to 209 mhz, you have to calculate by entering these from the upper code repecitevly from top to bottom 920x1080 (0x4c) 152.5MHz +HSync -VSync *current +preferred h: width 1920 start 2010 end 2070 total 2226 skew 0 clock 68.5KHz v: height 1080 start 1086 end 1095 total 1142 Export the modifications in EDID editor as hex, make sure you add 60hz(original mod) in block 3 so you can switch between 40 60 120, then using find&replace method modify the format according to the next step Then modify the array in the code (acc to format, 0x and ,) upload to arduino: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-tfp401-hdmi-slash-dvi-decoder-to-40-pin-ttl-display/editing-the-edid I'v managed to go up to 120hz stable, yours may be different although the same model number... xrandr output at 85hz: Had to reboot twice on Windows under UEFI boot manager in order to recognize the 120hz option, weird Again, this is not a thorough guide, just sharing my experience. It went pretty straightforward, and simple as a typical EDID modding over VGA cable or DVI.
  21. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Mainboard from a clevo X7200 /sager np7280 working condition. make me an offer

    120.00 USD

  22. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    Clevo X7200 for sale! good condition. with Windows 7 config: price 590 USD CPU i7 960 12GB RAM 128GB SSD GTX 470M Barebone (cpu only) 460 USD without CPU 420USD ask for details

    590.00 USD

  23. Hey guys, thought I would share a couple of very simple mods I did that others may benefit from. My P750ZM came with a wimpy little 240W AC adapter, that's really not adequate for a heavily overclocked 4790K and GTX 980M. I had a spare AC-100 (dual adapter) converter box and a spare Alienware 330W AC adapter. I purchased one of these dongles to convert the Dell 7.5mm connector to a different size AC plug. It does not matter what connector is on the male end, all we need is the Dell 7.5mm female connection, so any similar dongle will work. The wire gauge is smaller than I would like it to be, but the cable is short. So far I have noticed no power handling restrictions. The cable and end plugs on the dongle do not get hot, so it seems good in spite of the small wire gauge. If you can find a dongle made with larger gauge wire that would be a better option than the one I linked, but it does seem to work fine. So, what I did from here is I sacrificed the crappy little 240W adapter and stole the cable off of it. I used the original cable and strain relief boot from the 240W adapter to replace the silly short pigtail on the AC-100. I soldered it in place of the short pigtail and it looks factory. When soldering together the custom dongle, be sure to wire it correctly. Solder white to white. The ID signal wire and ground wire should be soldered together and that will tell your Alienware AC adapter to output the full 330W capacity. I used the short pigtail from the AC-100 converter and spliced it with the Dell adapter dongle, so now I can plug the 330W Alienware AC adapter into that dongle and connect it to a 4-prong Clevo laptop AC jack... easy-peasy. I can put my spare 330W Alienware adapter to good use on my Clevo laptops and now I have a nice long cord on my AC-100 converter box.
  24. Officially, the upgrade path for the Alienware M18x-R1 ends with the nVidia GTX 580M but is that really going to stop the Tech|Inferno enthusiast from trying the latest and greatest? Absolutely not! So let’s get started. Parts & Tools Needed Quantity Part Needed (1) or (2) Clevo GTX 680M Kit from RJTech (1) X-Bracket (also included with 680M kit when purchased from RJTech) (1)Screws Screws (Also included with 680M kit from RJTech) (1)680M SLI cable SLI Cable (optional, can be found on eBay or directly from Dell) (1)IC Diamond ICD7 Diamond(recommended) or MX-4 Thermal Paste (1)Thermal pads Aftermarket Thermal Pads (1) ESD Mat + Strap (1) Precision Screwdriver Set (1) Techni-Tool Spudger Clevo GTX 680M Upgrade Kit When you purchase the Clevo GTX 680M Upgrade Kit from places like RJTech or MXM-Upgrade, they usually send a full kit that includes the X-bracket, screws, thermal paste, and Clevo heatsink. For the M18x-R1 or R2, the Clevo heatsink will be useless so you can elect to either resell it on eBay or just toss it in the garbage. A point of importance to keep in mind is that whether you opt to purchase the GTX 680M by itself or as a kit, be sure it comes with the x-bracket and Clevo screws (more information on this below). Typical price for an upgrade kit as of September 2012 is around $750-$850.00 USD. M18x Disassembly The Alienware M18x-R1 is a fairly sophisticated system that requires the user to have a familiarity with taking apart notebooks. Because some of the parts in the M18x are fragile, it is recommended you only attempt this if you feel you have sufficient experience. Refer to the Alienware M18x Service Manual to learn how to take apart the system. View Alienware’s Tear Down videos to see how its done. Installation Installation is pretty straightforward, be sure to use the ESD mat + strap when handling the M18x and GTX 680M so that no damage occurs to the sensitive electronics. Once the M18x has been opened up, remove the existing video cards. Ensure that you are using GTX 560M/580M video card heatsinks for full compatibility with the GTX 680M. You must use the screws (linked in the above table) designed for the Clevo GTX 680M X-Bracket since the Dell screws do not fit. Remove the retention washers from the 560M/580M heatsink in order to remove the original screws. Clean the previous thermal paste from the GPU using isopropyl alcohol and a cotton pad. Alternatively, coffee filter paper also works well. Place the thermal pads on the video card according to the picture below: One problem you may encounter while fitting new pads is that the heatsink does not make full contact with the inductors on the video card. To alleviate this, a thicker aftermarket thermal pad can be used or copper shims + ICD7 such as the photo below: Once the thermal pads and/or shim have been placed, do a test placement with the heatsink to ensure all the thermal pads make contact with the heatsink. An example of proper contact is illustrated in the photos below: After proper pad contact has been determined, place a thin line of thermal paste across the GPU, seat the heatsink and fasten it with the screws. Both the right and left heatsinks require different fitting of the pads so always check for proper contact before installation. Driver .inf Modification The Clevo GTX 680M may require the proper device id to be added to the nvcv.inf file found in the Display.Driver directory. Credit: jhmonroy Instructions Using Notepad, open nvcv.inf from the ‘Display.Driver’ directory (I suggest you copy a backup of file elsewhere) (Using the replace function) Replace all occurrences of DEV_11A0&SUBSYS_51051558 with DEV_11A0&SUBSYS_xxxx1028 (You can replace any GTX 680M Dev ID code you wish) Replace all occurrences of %NVIDIA_DEV.11A0.5105.1558% with %NVIDIA_DEV.11A0.xxxx.1028% <–Dell hardware ID. Replace all occurrences of NVIDIA_DEV.11A0.5105.1558 with NVIDIA_DEV.11A0.xxxx.1028 The latest beta drivers require more extensive modification that go beyond the scope of this article at this time. However, there are modified nVidia beta drivers available at LaptopVideo2Go that have the .inf files already modified for both the desktop and notebook and thus are a simple point and click installation–which is what we recommend. Update 9/13/12: You can grab the latest 306.23 modded drivers from our forum to use with the M18x-R1 and Clevo GTX 680M. Clevo GTX680M Gallery
  25. Will P640RE with 970M work with vr because in NVCP the LCD is connected to iGpu help me