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№1 Toxic Shitter

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  1. I've flashed an MSI 1.025V unlocked OC Edition VBIOS a long time ago. Recently I've ran into what appear to be power delivery issues when both CPU and GPU are stressed and decided to flash a 1V unlocked VBIOS instead. I wasn't paying attention(despite filesizes clearly being vastly different) and flashed a Clevo GTX680M vbios on my MSI card. It's now bricked. My system turns on, the fans and lights work but I can't get into DOS/Windows. It works fine once I remove the bricked GPU. I'm following Prema's guide for blindflashing, except that instead of trying to get into Windows I've made a DOS bootflash with an autoexec file and Nvflash. From what I understand I need to bridge pins 1 and 4 on my VBIOS chip to pass boot. The problem is that my gpu and vbios chip look like this. The VBIOS pins are almost completely shrouded. Either I'm screwed and completely unable to access the pins OR I'm doing something wrong OR the tweezers/screwdrivers I'm using don't conduct well enough to properly bridge the pins OR my GPU is hardbricked. Can anybody give me some insight on what to do next? If I'm out of options I will take it to a service centre. As a sidenote, I currently have to run my laptop without the dGPU and my fans are stuck at 100% RPM all the time even when the system is completely idle. It's like a vacuum cleaner right next to me. Any way to fix that while my GPU is bricked? Edit: I've fixed it, just had to use different tweezers. I'm sorry for cluttering the forum, delete this if possible.
  2. Good to know it's not just my machine. I suppose I will have to reflash back to 1V unlocked for the GPU.
  3. I had a series of failures with my attempts to flash a bios on my MSI GT70. Long before I tried flashing the provided .30 I "upgraded" my BIOS to the official .50. This prevented me from flashing the modified BIOS. So I went ahead, dumped my .50 BIOS and unlocked it myself, after which I succesfully flashed it, only for all the BCLK values to be greyed out. This prompted a reflash back to my original .50 BIOS, in the midst of which my PC cheerfully whirred and bricked itself. Blind flashing wouldn't work. After taking it to the repair centre I got a surprisingly smaller bill than anticipated and also told that only my BIOS memory chip was fried. For all I know this could be related to the long gone-by times I ran my laptop without proper cooling/factory paste and it was constantly overheating on both the CPU and the GPU. Right now this is my only PC, so I'm not willing to risk even a tiny chance of bricking it but I'm building a new one in a few months and I plan to then flash the BIOS on this machine so I could finally BCLK OC and have XMP support. A couple of questions: 1. Bios Backup Tool currently reports that my BIOS version is E1762IMS.30U. Can I safely flash to .30M, which is Xonar's modified version? 2. Any guesses as to why it got bricked amidst the 2nd flash, but not on the first one? Could it be simply that the memory was faulty? 3. Do I need to replace my power brick after five years of sustained use?
  4. Long time no see. I've been using this method for a while now and It has been working great. I'm running an MSI GT70 0NE with an i7-3630QM. I'm using the 1.025V unlocked VBIOS and have a straight up +209 core/+450 memory OC in Afterburner(which matches the suggested boost frequencies). I've ran both the latest drivers(which I'm currently on) and old 347.52(which I used to see if Kepler was indeed downgraded in perf, to nobody's surprise it wasn't). However, I've noticed a problem in one title - Planetside 2. It happens with both Shadowplay on or off, but seems to happen more frequently . I run ThrottleStop whenever I play, which maxes my CPU voltage at just below 1.1. PS2 is very CPU heavy. It's the only game that truly maxes out my CPU usage. On occasion(most often in very CPU-intensive moments), my game momentarily freezes and the screen goes black. The freeze lasts for around five seconds after which I get an absolutely random previously rendered frame(that could be what I was seeing on the screen 5 minutes ago) after which my game unfreezes and my GPU works normally(I haven't checked the GPU clocks after this happens though), except for Shadowplay, which turns off(red line over the indicator) and I need to restart the game to have it work again. Neither my GPU nor my CPU are overheating(GPU maxes at around 70 degrees centigrade, CPU at 82). I don't crash in regular benchmarks(Heaven, Firestrike), but I ran Furmark once and it seemingly bricked my PC for 5 minutes after which I coul turn it on again. I have never changed my power brick. The only guesses I have is that I'm either using too much power or that there is some edge case driver issue. That or my GPU is dying. Anyone else experience something similar?
  5. So, I've had this GT-70 for almost five years and it has served me very well. For the last few months, however, I've been noticing uncharacteristically slow disk performance and other issues. Today, after flashing a modified BIOS it worked just fine. I haven't touched any of the added BIOS settings yet. Then, after a few restarts, it died on a seemingly innocuous reboot. I got a black screen for five seconds with the power button reporting that it is on, then it turned off and doesn't start since. Pressing the power button results in a delayed flash, followed by a short. very faint buzzing sound coming from the CPU(as if it was trying to turn on), and the fan trying to activate momentarily. Then it dies down and repeats every 10 or so seconds. What i've tried: * Reset CMOS battery * Take out the battery and the AC adapter, let it sit unplugged for a few minutes, then replug * Take out the battery and the AC, hold the power button to drain residual charge, plug in the AC. try to turn on * Reseat RAM under the keyboard * Take out RAM and try to launch the PC without RAM No difference either way. I don't get to hear the error beeping without RAM and my CPU doesn't seem to receive power for more than a second or so, even when a fully charged battery is connected. Really out of my depth here, but I'm fairly sure something is damaged. It may be the power connector for the CPU, a blown out capacitor or a damaged motherboard, and I don't even know how to diagnose this. Any ideas?
  6. Finally got around to doing this. Modified the BIOS setup configuration options(haven't touched anything else) with AMIBCP according to your modded BIOS, but AFUWIN/DOS failed the flash with a "18 - error secure flash rom verify fail" error. Fortunately, I've been able to find the one AFUDOS version that supported the /GAN parameter and I flashed my new modified bios, which is reward enough in and of itself. However, I've run into another problem. It appears that my minimum and maximum BCLK frequencies are both locked to 100, meaning I can't modify the current frequency with the "New frequency" option. I'm currently unsure what to do. I can't flash your bios, because mine is still write-protected. g Edit:Nevermind, it decided to say goodbye to this cruel world for seemingly unrelated reasons.
  7. Having issues flashing the bios on GT70. Reports back "Error: problem getting flash information". As per your advice to some other user, I tried a different version of afudos. On a whim, I tried to backup my bios using it. Doesn't work, all I get is a blinking underscore. Tried flashing the bios with it. Doesn't work, all I got is a blinking underscore, rebooted into windows successfully. I downloaded the Bios Backup Toolkit and backed up my BIOS. Apparently it's the write-protected E1762IMS.50x version. I got AMIBCP. Assuming I unlock all the features I want, how do I go about flashing the newly modified bios, if my current one is write-protected? Or will it flash because it's the same version?
  8. Disable Intel Speedstep in your BIOS. Download ThrottleStop(google it), tick set multiplier, set your multiplier to the desired value, untick BD prochot to prevent CPU throttling. Download MSI Afterburner, give your card a small overclock, prioritize core over memory clock. All of the above will raise your temps, if you throttle because of it, you can buy a cooling pad to keep the temps down. USB cooling pads are more portable, outlet pads require an outlet, but can have some really impressive fans at high RPM.
  9. The GPU is soldered to the motherboard. You aren't going to be upgrading much more than RAM or storage on Yoga 500 I'm afraid.
  10. My budget is ~2500 USD. I'm torn between assembling a PC and buying a laptop. My main requirements: * 120Hz+ 1080p monitor. 17+ inch. * Upgradeable. CPU, GPU, storage. Replaceable mobo would probably be out of the realm of possibility. * Initial specs of 6600k + GTX1070, 16 gigs of RAM, solid cooling. * Weight and noise levels are not a concern. The main reason I'm considering an upgradeable barebone instead of building a PC is that I don't have a lot of space for a tower + monitor, plus portability is nice since I move quite a bit.
  11. Have you tried the original VBioses from this site?
  12. That's true, but I can improve temps by repasting + buying a new cooler. I'm wondering if there is a way to go beyond 3.2 GHz on this system.
  13. I'm heavily bottlenecked by the CPU in some of the games I play. My current solution is running ThrottleStop at a constant 34T(which in practice means a 32x multiplier... for some reason) multiplier, with disabled BD prochot to prevent throttling. Since the GPU and the CPU are both on one heatsink, my CPU temps are seemingly through the roof. My GPU maxes out at 80(which is another issue in its own right, since it throttles), while my CPU maxes out at 100, if I were to believe MSI Afterburner and 94, 93, 85, 81 for each core if I were to believe ThrottleStop. I can probably lower them somewhat by repasting. I'm also using a dinky three-cooler CM USB cooling pad, although I plan upgrading to their outlet-powered 180mm pad/hub, so that will help things along. My questions: * Is there any way whatsoever to increase clockspeeds beyond simply using maximum turboboost multiplier? * Is there a way to *affordably* upgrade the CPU(and for that matter GPU) on MSI-GT70? By affordable I'm talking <200 usd per component, because otherwise I might as well just buy a new PC(which I will do later anyway). * Are my current temps safe for my system in the long run? I've been running this without a hitch for half a year, but after MSI Afterburner giving me the 100 Celsius figure I'm beginning to have second doubts. This laptop has survived 5 years of abuse. It would be nice if it survived four more.
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