Jerenny

(First thread on the forum!

I recently purchased the Zalman ZM MIC1 for recording videos, instead of an external condenser attachment for my ipod. I read the reviews and listened to numerous audio samples from this microphone. All of them seem pretty clear and noise-free. The only problem is that with my computer, the microphone has a HUGE background humm, along with a very large amount of static. I would like to know if this is a problem with the Y500's sound card, a problem with the microphone, or just a software setting I missed. Here are some links:

The Micriophone with a good audio test: Amazon.com:*Customer Reviews: Zalman Zm-Mic1 High Sensitivity Headphone Microphone

My test [ATTACH]12517[/ATTACH] with the following settings in control panel: 100% volume, +20dB microphone boost, and DC offset cancellation.

20dB is a pretty huge microphone boost, so that could be it. Also, check the bitrate of your microphone and toy with those settings.

Okay to save space, I think we can all come to the conclusion that glossy display = 100Hz Stable, non-glossy = 80Hz stable.

So I was browsing around the internet in ways to compare my laptop to the PS4's power, when I saw that I could use SiSoftware Sandra 2014 to test the T FLOPS of my GPU. Well, I got sidetracked and started looking further into the i5 of this laptop, when I found this piece of information http://puu.sh/b4DIR/39eca5d4ee.png with the latest version saying http://puu.sh/b4DJT/c8027d46ea.png

My questions are,

What is microcode? Should it be updated?

If so, how do you update it? I searched around Google for like an hour and found nothing except for one of the ways to update it is through BIOS...which is probably never going to happen, I don't see Lenovo releasing BIOS updates for the y510p again..

750M SLI 1228/2750 @ 1.125 is pretty stable for me, I've tested before on the stock voltage of 1.100V and it seemed stable after over an hour of gaming, but I do the +25.0 mV kind of for a "just in case" type of deal. My first GPU never goes past 80 when gaming, and my second GPU never goes past 90. And this is playing Crysis 3 on Very High settings, multiplayer @ 1920x1080. It also seems that my first GPU can handle overclocks better than my ultrabay, for instance, it survived 1264/2800 in 3DMark benchmarks and as you can see from: NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i5-4200M,LENOVO VIQY0Y1 and NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i5-4200M,LENOVO VIQY0Y1, it rivals other laptops nicely, especially for being the weaker i5-4200M variant(Still would love to have the i7 model though v.v..)

So, the maximum I can go with my non-glossy matte screen is 83 Hz. At 84Hz, the screen goes dark and I have to put the computer into sleep and out or restart the system to get the monitor working again.

You should default back to 80Hz. I also thought I was stable at 83Hz, until one day when I started my computer back up, after the BIOS screen, my screen started doing all kinds of horrible flickering and flashing, luckily enough it booted into windows, but it was still going absolutely nuts throughout the entire process, and it stopped once I set it to 80.

Hi. Thanks for the help.

I want to ask a question. I use a y510p and i want to be able to set fan speeds to %100 manually and leave them at %100 speed as long as i need. I'm not interested any other benefit of this bios mod. Is this possible with this bios mod ? If not and you answer my question, you may save me from a lot of effort to the mod then return to the original bios.

Thanks anyway.

No, this is not (yet?) possible. This BIOS/EC mod does not allow you to control fan speeds. Look at @allstone and his IdeaFan script, for now, that's the closest you'll get to controlling fan speeds.

- - - Updated - - -

I would be interested how I can

voltage change from onboard video card

reduced from 1,1v to 1,05v

If it is possible by modifying the parameters in BIOS

I know that the motherboard onboard video BIOS gt755m is included in version 3.05.

There is something that you can edit?

The performance certainly 1.05v remain unchanged but the temperature will be lower by at least 5-8 degrees

You can undervolt both cards in NVIDIA Inspector after flashing the custom VBIOSs.

Yes, its the one. Just see theres less space, might as well use thinner 0.5mm ones instead of 1mm? Please tell how it all went. If you will not notice any new OC possibilities, at least it will not be prone to overheating/causing artifacts I guess, so might not hurt. Btw, I have removed the plastic from GPU, cleanup up it propertly, then put the plastic back, then applied the paste in a proper way, not in a chinese way

You removed the plastic and then put it back? How? Did you notice any differences?

i cannot downgrade to 2.07 : [ATTACH=CONFIG]12205[/ATTACH]

Turn on BIOS backflash in BIOS settings.

What am I like the only person in the world with the non-glossy screen? -__________- I'm over here sitting at 80Hz while everyone else is OH I GOT 100Hz..Anyone wanna trade?

The max I can get is 82Hz, looking at HWiNFO64, I have the LP156Wf1-TLB2, which is the anti-gloss screen. So I guess the newer screens aren't able to overclock as high?

Does anyone know what in the world to do with this menu? Or is it completely useless on our laptops?

I have the i5-4200m model.

I tried to get to the cmos battery but I couldn't get it open enough to get to it. It is sandwiched between the palm rest and the mobo.

Hm...Is there a way you can force the BIOS to update through USB maybe? Like creating some type of DOS boot up without being able to switch to Legacy in the boot options? Maybe you can take out the hard drive and have a bootable flash drive with some type of BIOS installation on the flash drive and maybe it would boot into that? I'm not sure, I'm really at a loss at this point. @octiceps, @ghoul, @unclewebb, get your butts in here.

I remember @allstone saying something along the lines of you can reset BIOS by removing the CMOS battery for almost half an hour before you put it back in. I wouldn't try it until he comes to this thread and confirms that though, I don't want to screw things up even more trying to remember something someone said.

EDIT: Found his post..

It should be packed bios CMOS battery. Is it movable at all? No damage by moving it except if it somehow non-movable. It must be packed in plastic as a lot of those batteries are. Note if you remove the battery, you must remove it for 20-30 minutes at least to reset BIOS.

Looks like I messed up. I was trying to undervolt my system using the new 3.05 bios and now my system won't even turn on, no Lenovo logo, one key recovery button, nothing. I even did the bios reset thing by removing the battery and holding down the power button for 20 seconds. Any ideas on what I can do at this point?

You tried to undervolt the GPUs and now your computer won't turn on? o.O

@CYGNUX Just to be certain, removing that plastic actually did lower your temps?

Fantastic that it worked for you! Was it easy to do? Just read through your link to your album - very interesting reading! Sounds like all those problems were resolved after you undervolted?

Well the problems I was getting was because I was overvolted and overclocked. The point of me trying to get the ultrabay cooler was so it can remain cooler at those overclocks I was doing. But still, undervolting is a really great way to maintain cool temperatures. After playing Battlefield 4 on ultra for an hour and a half, I got a GPU 0 max temp of 64, and a GPU 1 max temp of 70, undervolted.

OK so I end up with this:

I test a game for about 30 minutes (up to the red line) and this is the best I can get but only with the ultrabay GPU downvolted.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]12158[/ATTACH]

Can this make any damage to the GPU?, also the only way I find to apply those settings on boot is by creating a shortcut and execute it at boot.

CYGNUX, maybe you should try this mod. Y510p Ultimate Cooling Mods Revealed...Unshroud yo... - Lenovo Community This is what I do, and like I've been saying for a while, you have absolutely insane temperatures. Undervolting my Ultrabay GPU by -100mV while still keeping the same clocks, after an hour and a half of gaming under a cooling pad, my first gpu never went past 60*C, and my Ultrabay GPU never went past 68*C. I know that this is no cooling pad vs cooling pad, but a cooling pad won't make a 30+*C difference in temperatures. Take the cooling pad off since it restricts a lot of airflow, and then try gaming again.

+1, I was also wondering what is up with the sheet of plastic over the Ultrabay GPU, and if it had anything to do with these ridiculous temperatures.

In GPU-Z, right-click on the top of the window and select "read ASIC quality." You have to do it for each GPU.

73.0% for first GPU, 68.3% for the Ultrabay card. So that's why I can't undervolt as much as you guys, huh? But in the end I can overclock/overvolt higher?

Just curious, what is your GPU ASIC quality? Mine is 78.0% and 84.5% on primary and Ultrabay respectively.

No clue what that is, where do I find it? And 1150/2500 seems stable on 1.075.

Never mind, and they're pretty bad, 73 and 68 respectively.

Nothing beats Heaven for weeding out unstable overclocks. If my OC can pass Heaven at max settings overnight, it can pass anything.

True, and drivers just crashed at 1150/2500 @ 1.050V

Yeah, both cards 1 V under load.

I'm attempting it right now, 1.0 V is the lowest stable undervolt I can get in heaven, I think I can go a little further to .987 before it gets a bit too unstable on everything that's not Heaven Benchmark. I'm trying out 1158(+100MHz) on 1.050 V now to see if that's stable. I believe my normal overclock of 1228/2700 is stable on stock voltage, 1.100V.

I said 1.0V after the undervolt o-o...Is that not what you're looking for?

I redid it, only this time it wasn't as boring because I fell asleep. Still stock clocks at 1.0V(-100mV undervolt), but this time Heaven is completely maxed out, 8x MSAA, Extreme Tessellation, Ultra quality, 1920x1080, and fullscreen. I only took about an hour nap. Here are the results, you can see the exact time at the bottom of the HWiNFO64 window.

EDIT: Heaven was indeed in fullscreen. I just Prt Scr'd the HWiNFO shot and pasted it onto the screenshot I took of heaven, which you can see from the temperatures at the top left correlating with the Max temperatures in HWiNFO. That's why the "Current" temperatures are much lower than the temperatures you see in the MSI afterburner overlay.

LOL he asked for Unigine Valley not Heaven.

GOD DAMMIT. Dude this shit took like 45 minutes..Ugh...Guess i have to do this again...