Jerenny

20dB is a pretty huge microphone boost, so that could be it. Also, check the bitrate of your microphone and toy with those settings.

Okay to save space, I think we can all come to the conclusion that glossy display = 100Hz Stable, non-glossy = 80Hz stable.

So I was browsing around the internet in ways to compare my laptop to the PS4's power, when I saw that I could use SiSoftware Sandra 2014 to test the T FLOPS of my GPU. Well, I got sidetracked and started looking further into the i5 of this laptop, when I found this piece of information http://puu.sh/b4DIR/39eca5d4ee.png with the latest version saying http://puu.sh/b4DJT/c8027d46ea.png My questions are, What is microcode? Should it be updated? If so, how do you update it? I searched around Google for like an hour and found nothing except for one of the ways to update it is through BIOS...which is probably never going to happen, I don't see Lenovo releasing BIOS updates for the y510p again..

750M SLI 1228/2750 @ 1.125 is pretty stable for me, I've tested before on the stock voltage of 1.100V and it seemed stable after over an hour of gaming, but I do the +25.0 mV kind of for a "just in case" type of deal. My first GPU never goes past 80 when gaming, and my second GPU never goes past 90. And this is playing Crysis 3 on Very High settings, multiplayer @ 1920x1080. It also seems that my first GPU can handle overclocks better than my ultrabay, for instance, it survived 1264/2800 in 3DMark benchmarks and as you can see from: NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i5-4200M,LENOVO VIQY0Y1 and NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i5-4200M,LENOVO VIQY0Y1, it rivals other laptops nicely, especially for being the weaker i5-4200M variant(Still would love to have the i7 model though v.v..)

You should default back to 80Hz. I also thought I was stable at 83Hz, until one day when I started my computer back up, after the BIOS screen, my screen started doing all kinds of horrible flickering and flashing, luckily enough it booted into windows, but it was still going absolutely nuts throughout the entire process, and it stopped once I set it to 80.

No, this is not (yet?) possible. This BIOS/EC mod does not allow you to control fan speeds. Look at @allstone and his IdeaFan script, for now, that's the closest you'll get to controlling fan speeds. - - - Updated - - - You can undervolt both cards in NVIDIA Inspector after flashing the custom VBIOSs.

You removed the plastic and then put it back? How? Did you notice any differences?

Turn on BIOS backflash in BIOS settings.

What am I like the only person in the world with the non-glossy screen? -__________- I'm over here sitting at 80Hz while everyone else is OH I GOT 100Hz..Anyone wanna trade?

The max I can get is 82Hz, looking at HWiNFO64, I have the LP156Wf1-TLB2, which is the anti-gloss screen. So I guess the newer screens aren't able to overclock as high?

Does anyone know what in the world to do with this menu? Or is it completely useless on our laptops? I have the i5-4200m model.

Hm...Is there a way you can force the BIOS to update through USB maybe? Like creating some type of DOS boot up without being able to switch to Legacy in the boot options? Maybe you can take out the hard drive and have a bootable flash drive with some type of BIOS installation on the flash drive and maybe it would boot into that? I'm not sure, I'm really at a loss at this point. @octiceps, @ghoul, @unclewebb, get your butts in here.

I remember @allstone saying something along the lines of you can reset BIOS by removing the CMOS battery for almost half an hour before you put it back in. I wouldn't try it until he comes to this thread and confirms that though, I don't want to screw things up even more trying to remember something someone said. EDIT: Found his post..

'You tried to undervolt the GPUs and now your computer won't turn on? o.O

@CYGNUX Just to be certain, removing that plastic actually did lower your temps?