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Update on this. Looks like external power is still needed. The adapter doesn't seem to draw any power from laptop. Sad to say I have got no use of the adapter now. So now I am looking to sell this adapter. It's a revision 2 of gerald's adapter. Message me if anyone's interested.

Hey @gerald. I have your ultrabay adapter and have one very specific query related to it. I want to run an ethernet pcie card with ultrabay adapter. To my knowledge the card requires 3v from pcie slot and takes around 4-5w power. Does your ultrabay adapter take any form of power (3v, 5v etc.) from pcie slot? If i intend to run a 4-5W pcie lan card, will i need external power supply? I am trying to get hands on a physical card only to test but seems not possible at the moment as they are non-returnable.

I have one and i am looking to sell it. Please let me know if you are interested.

Have you tried using the USB 2.0 port? I know a lot of people had success with USB 2.0 port and a pen drive that only supports USB 2.0. Might give it a try.

I have been using DevManView (by Nirsoft) to disable dGPU for years now and it doesn't re-enable after reboot. Using this method is way easier than blocking the install. Command: devmanview.exe /disable "NVIDIA GeForce GT 755M"

Hello. I assume you have a HDD caddy to use additional HDD in the ultrabay port (not the ultrabay HDD that lenovo advertised but never sold?). I use a HDD caddy myself and used to be in the same situation as you where I wanted to be able to use HDD with or without eGPU and to be able to go mobile quickly whenever needed. Hence I thought of a solution. I bought a simple SlimSATA cable and created a enclosure for both slimsata and the ultrabay adapter (I have gerald's final design ultrabay adapter). SlimSATA is the port where the HDD is connected to with HDD caddy. You can see that the HDD Caddy is attached to laptop through ultrabay as is, meaning, if I wanted to go mobile all I have to do is: 1. remove ultrabay adapter from laptop 2. remove HDD Caddy from ultrabay adapter 3. Insert HDD Caddy to ultrabay slot in the laptop and that's it. Doens't matter which design of ultrabay you get you can modify it to something like explained above. All you'll need is some sata/slimsata cable. I hope that is what you wanted to know! EDIT: I forgot to mention that this is not the final iteration of the modification I made. I moved the cable to the back side so that I can put the HDD Caddy behind the laptop and it would'nt get in way while I use my mouse Do you have 8 GB RAM or 16 GB? Are you still using RX580? I tried running Warzone using 1070 but it ran very poorly.

It is throttling due to power limit. PL2 = Power limit. I do not own Y50-70 but i do own the predecessor Y510p and there is a way to bypass this limit but it'll not help in your case as your temps are already very high. Even a slight increase in power limit will push temps to 100 degrees easily. Let's assume you have improved the cooling and bypassed power limit, still you might get limited by current throttling (EDP). There is no way to bypass EDP in your system. In short, you can improve cooling a bit and get a bit more performance but you cannot bypass the throttling limits. Blame lenovo.

I have used the default sd card tray as a switch in my case. Ejecting the tray disconnects the connection and full fan. EDIT: Earlier i was using kensington lock port with a switch but it was not feasible since ultrabay always got in the way. Hence the switch to sd card tray.

Here's the screenshot of SOTR bench i've done a long time ago. You can also check other bench stats of my setup on egpu site.

I really do not think that the cpu would bottleneck a RX 580. I am yet to see a bottleneck with my 1070 gpu via ultrabay. It is possible that i may have missed some games which could show a potential bottleneck. If you have any particular games in mind (that can bottleneck the cpu) i'd gladly check with my ultrabay pci-e 1070 card.

You can connect both desktop or a laptop HDD to a "slim SATA" port only the power delivery changes. A SATA HDD has 2 connectors, 1 for DATA and 1 for power. The DATA port is standard i.e., uses same cable for all SATA hard disks. Below is an example of DATA port of laptop and desktop HDD: Only the power port changes. For example, Slim SATA has a different power connector, laptop HDD has a different power connector, desktop HDD has a different power connector etc. tl;dr You can use any standard SATA cable for data transfer.

Try inspecting the board (traces, pins, connector etc.). There must be some kind of damage to the board.

I'd also suggest to try windows 10. It performs better for eGPU solutions. Might fix your issue.

Welcome to the world of CPU throttling and not able to reach advertised speeds. Now, there can be many reasons to throttle. You have not given any info or screenshot on what exactly is happening. Use cpu monitoring programs to figure it out (search, there are plenty of guides out there). Lastly, if your CPU is throttling (which it is) and it cannot even run at stock turbo speeds, then this guide won't help you at all. PS. I have managed to to stay at 4.2 GHz at 90C (cinebench R15 with cooling mods). It is not worth it in my case as there are other throttling mechanisms (current limit) which reduces the speed independent of temperature/power. I use 36x for daily tasks/games (no throttle) and 42x only for benching.

I'd prefer a desktop for more performance everytime but since i travel around a lot, eGPU makes sense for me. If you can manage thermals then you can do all sorts of OC and convert it into a beast of a CPU but of course it will decrease the lifetime of the cpu/motherboard. My current setup is very high OC to 4.3GHz only for benchmarks and 3.4-3.5GHz all cores for daily tasks/games 24/7. I'm staying away from high CPU OC (more than default 3.6Ghz) for longer durations since it makes the cpu go power hungry (if you unlock power limits), I am pretty sure the motherboard won't be able to withstand that much power (already had two cases of power connector burn signs). TL;DR even controlling thermals won't be of much help if you're looking to OC and want long life of your laptop. AFAIK, x8 PCI-E vs x16 PCI-E won't make much (any?) of a difference when it comes to single GPU. https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2488-pci-e-3-x8-vs-x16-performance-impact-on-gpus

I was able to mod 3.08 bios and successfully flashed it by comparing and understanding your 2.07 version. I can exploit that mcode bug but now there's a new issue. After i delete the dll from system32, instant crashing with stock ucode within 5 mins. I'll head over to pm.

"Re-installation" isn't even needed. It's a mere precaution to increase effectiveness (again, you missed your homework). The issue is, with proper application of LM, your "crystals" as you call them can't even be seen with naked eye. You'd need a microscope. The reason i was talking about copper is because of what you wrote. "Two small holes" after using LM on copper? Hilarious. Are you sure it was copper? Could be aluminium which will create more than 2 holes lol. You're right about language barrier i guess. Most people also don't benefit from education. Agreed. No more OT from my side. Congrats on figuring out the issue.

I'll try to check the same in my system and report if there's anything different. You should disable the dGPU though since it's not being used when using eGPU and check if there's still throttling. The two heatpipes should be joined for more heat transfer. Single heat pipe for such a power hungry CPU is a bad joke from Lenovo. I also used a thermally conductive epoxy but it didn't adhere properly as you can see below. I actually forgot about this lol. Have to clean up that mess and look for another solution. Some folks have even used LM between Heatpipes but yeah soldering is the best option but it's very risky. Post some pics. Hard to believe you at this point when you say "i did everything neatly" because obviously you didn't. What you are referring to as crystallization is actually a galvanic corrosion which happens because Gallium (from LM) migrates into Copper and yes heating will speed up this process. But it doesn't hamper with thermal conductivity. It's merely a stain which will stay forever but the resulting alloy can be easily sanded off (take a look at one of my pics i posted above). I've already explained that this happens at the surface level. You're not going to find that the whole copper has been converted into some kind of alloy due to the corrosion. That is why when you apply LM for the first time, you use it for 2-3 weeks so that most of the gallium from LM will be absorbed in the Copper, open laptop again, sand off the copper layer with some high grit sandpaper (i used 1200) and apply or reuse LM again. If you do this there won't be much further corrosion since the first layer is already an alloy (the grey color) and there's not much copper left there. LM is not a mixture of several metals. There are only a few main ingredients: Gallium, Indium and Tin. Even Google doesn't know what you're talking about. You either used a lot of LM or you have a poorly fitting heatsink. Maybe both. I still have LM on my CPU and i don't have any issues with temperatures even after a year of application. I'm speaking of my own experience and not trying to make something up to make you look bad. If i don't know how to drive and somebody forced me to drive a Tesla Roadster and I wreck it doesn't mean that car was unfinished lol. That's your opinion and i am smart. Opinions can't be wrong. Anyway I tried to help you but looks like you don't want it. i'm out of this convo. Next time you want to use something like that make sure you do your homework.

Ok now i'm intrigued. Can you tell me which microcode version you used? Did you edit BIOS to add the buggy microcode?

I vaguely remember doing that but i stopped as our systems are not meant to handle that kind of speed since it draws too much power. You can't run continuously at higher TDP (54-57W) since it creates issues. I've had a lot of issues in the past because of this. One reason i remember is that the power connector on the motherboard was burned (the female end of the power cable, no damage to the pins on motherboard though, lucky i guess). I don't have any other personal laptop and that's why i try not to do anything that might damage it. So yeah even without thermal throttling, there's nothing to be done to increase the performance in the long run. It's a design flaw. Also, i remember you doing research for replacing the display panel on your y510p. Have you found anything on that? EDIT: Just now remembered that microcode bug.

Already posted above: Image if you're curious: As you can see i was very careful not letting LM touch the surrounding aluminium heat sink. This was the first time i applied LM. ^ This is after a month of use. The grey area you see is LM penetrating copper which is only at the surface and can be sanded off. The way i did it is applied LM first time, used it for a month, reopened heat sink assembly, sanded off copper shim (the pic above) and applied LM again. LM won't continuously invade copper forever, like i said it only happens at the surface (a couple microns). I was pretty careful to prevent any leaks just in case: I did not mean to be offensive but people tend to treat LM like any other thermal paste and ended up killing the motherboard and then say it doesn't work and not worth it. Anyway, if you're or any other individual reading this want to try out Liquid Metal, I'd say do as much research as you can, ask questions so people with experience can help. Otherwise stay away from it.

The reason why you saw crystallization is due to gaps between heatsink and cpu die which allowed air to go into the system. As long as there's no gap (airtight fitting), LM will never dry out. The heatsink needs to be fully flat against the die with even pressure to use LM otherwise everything can go wrong. Copper heatsinks are good when it comes to LM. LM penetrates into copper surface but it doesn't in any way hamper the heat conduction. It's more like a stain that won't go away but doesn't affect performance. Aluminium heat sinks on the other hand should never be used with LM. You are getting bad results with LM like most people simply because of bad application. If applied correctly you don't ever have to worry about it. I've thrown my laptop around, carry it almost everyday on a motorbike, all the things you can imagine would make LM leak but it never happened to me.

Cooling system is really pathetic in lenovo ideapad series. You simply can't do anything to get rid of throttling. Thermal throttling can be reduced though. Thermal throttle is inevitable due to: 1. Bad stock thermal paste 2. Heatsink not being flat on the die 3. GPU and CPU heatsink combined. 4. No VRM cooling First and second can be solved using good quality highly conductive thermal paste and re-aligning heat sink. Heat sink can be adjusted using washer mod, bending it slightly (careful here) and lapping. I did all the above and it's been more than a year since i've opened up my laptop's heatsink and temps are same as i was getting back then. Third issue however cannot be solved so easily. It'll require custom made heat sink. The contact between GPU die and heatsink is also horrible. Since i am now using eGPU, i don't have to worry about it. Those idiots placed VRM directly below the heasink. Right now you cannot increase the TDP but even if you are able to do it, VRM throttling will start. There's no way to cool VRM's in the current design. There's are other ways the CPU can throttle ofcourse. Like, EDP current limit. It cannot be changed and one reason why upgrading CPU won't help. I have read about it but never encountered it. Are you using ThrottleStop? If not then try it. It's a godsent program to help with a lot of throttling woes. That could help. Make sure you remove the grill mesh dust filter on the bottom of the laptop for more fan efficiency. I personally use ideafan. I only run it when gaming, other times the laptop is silent anyway. I'd love to mod a switch to run the fan at full speed but dont get much time for that. From what i heard it doesn't do a very good job. I'd rather suggest Conductonaut (as i'm using it) but it's very risky if not done properly. That's weird. Have you tinkered with any nvidia control panel settings?

I kinda agree with @Veter. These CPU's (both y500 & y510p) are strong enough to play almost all games without sacrificing much performance provided the GPU is good enough to play most titles at high settings and higher resolutions. With higher FPS numbers there will be a bottleneck. CPU Temp gets slightly better if u disable dGPU and use eGPU since the heatpipe is shared between CPU and GPU. I have been using Liquid Metal for more than a year now. I always run my 4700MQ overclocked (36x) and temps are always under control unless you run heavy benchmarks like Prime95 with AVX. It's a very significant decrease in temps since i live in a much hotter region with ambient temps getting as high as 47 °C in summer. Right now with 1 window of chrome with 23 tabs open, 2nd window with 5 tabs open, temps are hovering around 37-38°C (18°C ambient temperature).