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The safe vbios in a P150HM are the Clevo 80.04.29.00.01 and MSI 80.04.33.00.24 ov 1.000v. The clevo vbios has a 3d voltage of 0.962v (stock voltage with this vbios) it allow an OC at max 954 core 2400 memory (may vary in function of the quality of your card) and give you a 3dmark score of 7600-7850 (in function of your cpu), this is the more safe vbios for your 180W PSU. Msi 80.04.33.00.24 ov 1.000v has a 3d voltage of 1.0v it allow an OC of 1006 core 2400 memory (may vary in function of the quality of your card) and give you a 3dmark score of 8000-8130 (in function of your cpu), at those frequencies and voltage, some games could overload your PSU (Far cry 3 in the LOST EXPEDITION level ...) you need to buy a wattmeter to measure if you could run a game safely with those frequencies and voltage. If you want to reach those frequencies safely, You Must also cool your laptop with a notebookcooler and do some mod on your backplate in order to give more fresh air to the gpu. At that moment the MSI 80.04.33.00.24 OC edition vbios (without OV) seem to have bug and give a voltage of 1.012v, so i can't advise this one on a P150HM. And yes ! Svl7 is a great man ... All others vbios will make your GTX680M unusable on your P150HM (the card will not be bricked but it will block the boot process, and you will be unable to restore a backup vbios unless you put your card in a P1XXEM laptop series) PS: make a backup of your vbios before flashing your card (nvflash -b backup.rom) PS2: Be sure to be in the latest BIOS for your P150HM, because i haven't tested these vbios in other environnement than EC/KBC V 1.00.13 & BIOS V 1.01.14 November 2011, Always update EC/KBC first. http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo/556299-clevo-bios-older-models.html PS3: If you got a Sager don't flash with a clevo bios and if you got a clevo don't flash with a sager bios (sager bios has custom EC/KBC that wasn't compatible with standard clevo bios, there is a risk of bricking your laptop).

I assume you are a mac user, I primarly use mac os for work, hobbies photography, but for gaming hands down windows laptop is the way to go. If you are to go the mac route, since TH04 will be coming out later this year, if you can wait you may as well wait for the 13" rMBP refresh with Haswell CPU and by then most likely next gen of GPU will be out. Otherwise the only other suggestion is get a windows based laptop. I'm not sure what the best choice would be in the end it's up to you.

Black ops 2 video gameplay uploaded, max resolution the rMBP offers. Starcraft 2 video gameplay uploaded. RE5 benchmark results/videos up later and that's pretty much it.

Possible, but don't get your hopes up. It looks like 1 or 2 will be VCC and GND, so you can find those somewhere else and solder directly onto the chip leads. For the others follow the trace if possible, then solder a wire to whatever component it connects to. If a trace starts out but then disappears down into the PCB, then you can remove the outer PCB coating to solder to the trace before it descends. I would suggest sanding if you can fit sandpaper in there. The coating is thin and will be removed fast, so I suggest no lower than 1k grit. Sanding is much more controllable than scraping. If you try scraping you'll almost certainly end up cutting the trace when trying to expose enough of it. Don't try melting the coating off with a soldering iron, I've tried that and it doesn't work. Only try this idea as a last resort. Even if you sand there's a fairly high chance of cutting through the trace. For traces you can't see at all, look up what the respective leads do on the BIOS chip to try to figure out where they go. On a sidenote, there is way too little pressure on that GPU die. By way too little I mean absolutely none. The paste should not completely cover the die like that after heatsink removal. With good contact all you should see only see a very thin haze of paste, with the entire die being visible. Temps will drop by over 10C with proper pressure.

Thunderbolt products get certified if they are plug'n'play. You can see that on the MBPr, the EFI framework doesn't allow plug-n-play where the iGPU is enabled alongside the eGPU. kloper resorted to going back to bios mode, using PERST# delay and Setup 1.1x to get it all functional. There the PERST# delay was necessary to allow the eGPU to get detected after the firmware has booted. May I suggest you ask them to at least provide a toggle switch that lets you manually toggle PERST#. Something that is easy enough for them to manually add if necessary. You shouldn't have to solder in for a $950 device? Without it you might have trouble getting internal LCD mode working. Good thing is the netstor will give you full 10Gbps performance, approx x2 2.0 + 12.5%, so is a little faster than a TH05. Other additional benefit being it allows daisy chaining of TB devices.

This is a modified version of BIOS A10, with all the hidden menus made available. The archive with the BIOS and the necessary files to flash it are attached to the post. After flashing, go to the BIOS menu and load the default settings, save, exit and reboot. As always with such modifications, you alone are responsible for your system and what you do with it. If you flash it, please report back and let me know whether everything is ok. (I'm sure it is, but I don't have an M17x R3 myself to test it ) The menus look exactly the same as all the previous "unlocked" R3 BIOS versions. Tested and confirmed to work, thanks @Staff Sargent !! *********************************************** Please consider a donation if you like this modified BIOS. *********************************************** UPDATE: Had to correct some things, this works fine. Keep in mind that A10 is no longer officially available on Dells support site, I don't know the reason for this, they might have to fix some things. Update 2: BIOS is available again on Dell's site, nothing changed between the version which was on there earlier and now... lol. M17x R3 - [unlocked] BIOS A10.zip