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[Started 2-12-2011 on NBR. Relocated to T|I due to being banned by Lenovo fan ZaZ] Download >> setPLL 1.0f[/COLOR] (2.27MB, 2011-4-4) [/B] [/CENTER] User contributed LUT files [ICS]: ICS9LPRS355BKLF (HP 2510P, Tech Inferno Fan), ICS9LRS3197 (Acer AS5740G, MotoVlad), ICS9LPRS365BKL (Amilo Pi 3560, vladichimescu). [SILEGO]: SLG8SP585 (Acer AS5740G, MotoVlad). What is setPLL? What operating systems are supported? Tested: Win7/64 and WinXP x86. Untested: other Win7/Vista/XP. What PLL definition files are supplied with setPLL? How do I install and use setPLL?See also [url=http://forum.notebookreview.com/alienware-m11x/564464-how-use-setpll-overclock-your-r2-over-166-a.html#post7288744]How to Use SetPLL to overclock your R2 over 166[/url] (thank you DavyGT) What quirks/bugs does setPLL have?What additional utilities are included in setPLL package? UtilityPurposeUsageautomatedFolder of scripts to automatically set your AC or DC clocks on startup, during ACDC switch & after a resume-from-standby/ hibernate. Shortcut resume-setPLL.vbs in startup folder to usesetIGPto alter the Core Render Clock on GM950/X3100/4500MHD IGPs. A downclock + Maximum Battery in Intel IGP systray giving greatest glitch-free stable setPLL overclock. GMAboostGMABooster clone to do a netbook GMA950 overclock.HPfanutility to to save/load HP Elitebook fan profiles.DSDTiasl+asl utils to create a custom DSDT override for fan control.N/Adevset(devcon) ~Device Manager for use in your batch files/scripts.devcon commandlineAcknowledgments Thank you to maddi2k, Moral Hazard, DavyGT and 2.0 for testing and supply confirmed working [PLL].lut example files; Jeff, the author of r-w everything, for providing his most excellent SMBUS read/write ability with his package plus enhancements. Revision history

Possible, but don't get your hopes up. It looks like 1 or 2 will be VCC and GND, so you can find those somewhere else and solder directly onto the chip leads. For the others follow the trace if possible, then solder a wire to whatever component it connects to. If a trace starts out but then disappears down into the PCB, then you can remove the outer PCB coating to solder to the trace before it descends. I would suggest sanding if you can fit sandpaper in there. The coating is thin and will be removed fast, so I suggest no lower than 1k grit. Sanding is much more controllable than scraping. If you try scraping you'll almost certainly end up cutting the trace when trying to expose enough of it. Don't try melting the coating off with a soldering iron, I've tried that and it doesn't work. Only try this idea as a last resort. Even if you sand there's a fairly high chance of cutting through the trace. For traces you can't see at all, look up what the respective leads do on the BIOS chip to try to figure out where they go. On a sidenote, there is way too little pressure on that GPU die. By way too little I mean absolutely none. The paste should not completely cover the die like that after heatsink removal. With good contact all you should see only see a very thin haze of paste, with the entire die being visible. Temps will drop by over 10C with proper pressure.

This thread is getting some serious readership so glad to help out to make it happen. @maven1975, could you ask netstor if their product has a user settable PERST# delay? That delay is necessary in bios mode to boot say into the Apple option screen (ALT). If it's set too low or there isn't one then upon poweron, the firmware running in bios mode will power the system down upon detecting the eGPU on my 13" MBP. Likely does the same on other Macbooks. Would netstor be willing to sell us just the Thunderbolt-to-pcie board with say a floppy PSU connector? That would be cost-effective solution for users that want to use their own PSU and run the GPU without an enclosure. Did you want to disclose how much you are paying for the 250W netstor ready-to-go TB chassis? Last ebay link you sent had it at ~US$950.

I have only tried retina on dirt 3, others seems to be too much pixels to push for the little mac. Although it's playable but for me I prefer smooth fps. Yeah no worries, I'll try and help out. I'm sure it won't be too different to other setups. Although I'm trying to provide as much video/info as I can I am on holiday on Thursday so I doubt I'd be online if at all. Link whatever you want, the more people get notice of this eGPU thing the better it is. I've also provided this forum link as well. Much thanks to Nando of course I don't think many would stumble across this community without him.

I've set it to low through bl2, makes a massive difference, everything still left on max settings other than physx, I don't think it ever really dipped below 60fps.

Interesting, thanks for the heads up, I'll turn physx to low and compare the results. I have just uploaded a quick gameplay vid on batman arkham city, will run a benchmark post a vid as well getting roughly 40s on average on arkham city. Currently uploading crysis 2 on ultra+high res texture pack, fps is in the 30s low 40s.

Everything is on max settings at 1920x1200, physx is on high as well. I should have put fraps on when recording but the fps was capped at 60, during gameplay and battles it would drop quite a bit to 20fps in really heavy battle on average I'd say fps within 35-45. I'll have to do more runs as that video was running very smooth while I was playing a lot smoother than a quick run with fraps on, could be just me realising the fps with fraps on though. Still the gameplay is more than playable although I prefer to lower the settings.

if you have nvidia card then for sure you need to modify actual heatsink or buy ready to mount FS: Brand New MSI Heatsinks gtx570m,560m,580m,5870m,460m,670m,675m,680m that's for sure if you change for ati card ,for nvidia probably it will works without and modification

It's a shame really, a scam to lure the consumers to purchase the same stuff wrapped up in a new shiny package. A waste of resources.

yes you can gpu http://forum.techinferno.com/msi/2511-msi-gt683-nvidia-675m-%3D-true.html cpu to i7-28xxqm if you need

This is just a follow up to my own post that may be useful to someone else. I managed to purchase a Killer Wireless-N 1202 (Part No: CTJ7G) from Dell and replaced the AzureWave WB225 that came with the GX60. The AzureWave card that came with the GX60 does not support 5GHz A/N WiFi frequencies and could only use the 2.4 GHz frequencies on my dual-band router. I wanted a dual-band WiFi card to avoid interference from the many 2.4GHz routers near my apartment by using the 5GHz band and when I am out with the commonly available 2.4GHz routers out there. While the card is from Dell, it works perfectly with the stock drivers from Killer themselves. I would recommend using the stock drivers as they are the latest and have the best compatibility with most routers. The WiFi and BT Fn keys work fine with this card as well. The S-Bar utility works with it too. No hacks required to get all of these features to work. Before installing the new Killer card, I downloaded the Windows drivers from KillerGaming and I uninstalled all drivers related to the AzureWave, even including the Bluetooth drivers. Based on a tip from Meaker, I found the AzureWave card under the power button panel (the one above the keyboard with the speaker holes on it). When removing the panel, be extra careful not to use too much force. The ribbon cable under it might snap. To remove the panel, remove the cooling fan and push the plastic clips underneath it out. You can also remove the DVD drive to unveil a clip for the other end of the panel to push out. This will make it easier to snap it off without damaging it or the ribbon cable. You should then see two antenna connected to a tiny mPCIe module that was covered by the power button panel. To remove the module, unplug the antenna cables and unscrew the single screw holding the module down. Once you remove the screw, the module should pop-up and you can replace it with another compatible one without any force. Insert the replacement module and screw it down before plugging in the antennas. Make sure to plug the antennas in the same position as the original card or your WiFi just won't work. The Killer card I used had specific markings on where the black and grey antenna plugs should go. If your replacement module has this information, please follow that instead. Once you've done putting everything back together, you should be able to boot up your system and log into Windows and install the drivers you've downloaded earlier. After you reboot your system, you should be able to see all WiFi access points after logging into Windows. That is all there is to it. However, if you run into issues, you may want to take your laptop over to a friend and try connecting to their WiFi to isolate whether your card is faulty or incompatible with your WiFi router. For example, I could not connect to my Asus RT-N66U but it worked fine with my Apple Time Capsule and a Nokia N9 HotSpot. After setting the WiFi radio region codes on my Asus router, it worked flawlessly. I have not tried this with any other WiFi card. However, based on information from Meaker, the ones based on Atheros chipsets should work fine. The Killer 1202 card I installed uses Atheros chips for both WiFi and BT.