G51j-A1 with 920xm and cooling mods-Need help!

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

EDIT: I figured out how to install this water cooling kit/mod and i think it will work really well. I need a spare cooling assembly before i go at it so i dont fuck it up. I still need to find one that is quick release and how to solder this...as in whats the best method/solder. Otherwise I think i got it. I still will take more advice though!!!

here is my basic blueprint from what u have learned and i honestly think it is a better design than that one the other guy made

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/1363/internalheatsinkandwate.jpg

dont get me wrong i could probably make my own mounting brackets and that would work better but i don't want to bother with that. I "think" this will have enough contact to pull heat off but i am not 100% sure. If anyone has any ideas on how to increase contact with soldering please let me know. This will be my first time soldering so i'll probably cut up some spare pieces to try first.I am going to build a laptop cooler that is made to have adjusted fan placement and fit up to a m18x laptop. I am using a g51J-A1 with a 920xm ES chip. So far the highest I can go in a cool room is 3.3GHz and run at 80C. I want to overvolt so I can hit higher clocks but I am limited to temps. I hit 90C if the room is 5-10 degrees Fahrenheit warmer. I am extremely dependent on ambient temps with this current air cooled system. I want to do a similar mod like this guy but I am going to make it better. There are a couple ways he did it that can be improved. I was wondering if anyone knew of a water cooling kit that had quick release connectors like the Zalman Reserator V1. I can't find it anywhere. I don't care if its silent or not. I prefer a non silent one that is smaller...that thing is ridiculously huge. I have a small space to use. Also I would like to build the water cooler inside the laptop cooler if possible. Hence why a smaller fan powered cooler would be better.

Also I was wondering if anyone knew of these answers i am looking for:

1.)It looks like he drilled out the base connector and installed two copper pipes to it for more cooling. Did he just solder it or also super clued and soldered or what? How did he make it water tight? Also if he soldered what solder did he use and it that strong enough? Is solder conductive enough for this? I need high thermal conductivity.

2.)As stated up higher is solder conductive enough or strong enough....are there better options?

3.)I need and want a quick release system so than I can take apart and adjust when needed.

4.)What are cooling kits that I can use that will work since I can't find the zalman and on top of that I want a smaller kit....remember I really need a quick release. I assume I can just use any quick release system and make it work like he did with this one.

5.)Also I have a 180w PSU that is the targus/powerlite one. Is 180w psu strong enough if i try to push 4GHz or more?

6.)Also is that thing at 2:07 a custom...umm what do you call it..."water block?

EDIT:that wasn't a water block....the only water cooling he does is through the copper pipes. He has the connectors drilled to connect the copper pipes to the water cooler. I got a couple ideas on how to make that better. So is that connect custom made? or taken off of a water cooling block?

Do you got any water cooling systems that you recommend that are lower profile that i can modify?

I am looking to overvolt this by at least 200mv if i can with this mod. I want to hit 4GHz or more 24/7

Do you got any water cooling systems that you recommend that are lower profile that i can modify?

I wonder if i could get this to work...its low profile for the most part

http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/heatkiller-1156.html

http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/xspc-rasa-750-rs240.html

just found this one and this looks good too

http://www.amazon.com/OCZ-Technology-OCZTHYDF-HydroFlow-Waterblock/dp/B001HZSGQW/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1339733287&sr=8-18

This one maybe/maybe not...hard to see

http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/larkooler-ba2-241.html

http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/antec-kuhler.html

I could find a way to mount this on the heat pipes...i rather stay off of the mounting on the CPU because i would like to try to make a mobile system. Maybe tomorrow i can go to fry's and see if they have water cooling kits i can see in person. I'll do more googling later to see if i can get better pictures of these. I dont have a lot of time right now.

Water cooling mod for laptop.

This is a copy paste from NBR of everything I have done so far.

Note of working in progress I will touch this up later when i got more time and fix grammar and make it neater

I just added photos of temps with my GTX260m overclocked and a 920xm at 26 26 25 25 with TDP 85 running folding at home. Note I put in the new fan and have it running at 5v constant by external power source. The fan was not an exact match and I had to cut out the old fan and dremmal a matching hole to super glue it in. The cord was also too short so I had to go with an external power source. I am running at 65-75C GPU depending on room temp and 76-85C for cpu. Also you have to have a 180w psu with 80-85TDP because I was bricking my new 150w PSU. I will add more photos and more info later in the weekend or week. I have photos on how to apply ICD and how to replace the fan and everything.

Well just tried hardware mod of my fan and it worked! It is rated at 5v so i tried 6v because thats all i had on hand and its brushless motor so i was like that'll work. well it did so i tried 12v and 13v and it went pshh fizzle poof.....brushless motor my rump. Don't go higher then rated voltage if brushless motor...maybe can get away with 1v but not anymore....make sure you have a back up cooling system...i haven't got one yet and that was a mistake. Luckily my cooling system is modified enough to handle basic functions and hold decent temps. I also have gpu underclocked and throttling on to be safe...monitoring it carefully until i get new cooling system

Alright so I finally got around to modding it and finished. I have done everything forge has done and some more. As everyone knows with the G51J you hit 105C and throttle in a couple mins trying to run prime and furmark at ASUS stock clocks. When you disable the throttle put in place by ASUS. I have listed my new temps below. About a year ago all I did was the case mod and that allowed me to overclock and play games at 90C which was nice. Although now I have finished all the mods and it is awesome!!!

Things I have done

1.)ICD24 has been added

2.)Bottom of the case has been drilled to high heaven

3.)Bottom case fan intake has been nearly fully grinded(sp?) away

4.)Have added copper heatsinks to heat pipes and heatsinks.

-I did not add as many as forge because I do not like the heatsinks not fully touching. Many spots only have enough room for half of the heatsink to stick to and I don't feel comfortable with having it part on and part floating. I don't like the chance of a conducting mettle floating around. Also I did not put heatsinks on the parts that I could not fully clean because again they will not stick as well and I don't want to chance it. Also I used the SEKISUI thermal tape. It appears to stick and conduct better then the stock Sony tape. The Sony tape seems to work fine but forge said SEKISUI is better and it appears to conduct more from a couple tests I have done.

5.)I have modded my cooling pad to use 3 92mm Vantec Tornado fans. At 12v and 1amp(?) they put out 119CFM. I am right now using an AC adapter that is 5V 2.6amps So the fans are probably running at ~40% capacity, which is good because they are still very annoying . They are still quite loud but I bet they are pushing still ~150CFM, which is much better than the unnoticeable maybe 10CFM the cooling pad was doing. The cooling pad btw is a Rosewill from Newegg.

-I took a 12V legacy cable that was laying around to extend it a foot(the fan cabled from cooler) and then cut and spliced a 12v rail off my old PSU from a desktop. I attached everything so that I can unplug it when I want to and attached the 12V rail to the AC adapter that I also spliced.

6A.) I replaced my fan with almost identical fan and have it powered at full speed (5V). Night and day difference in temps.

Few more possible mods I have not down due to laziness and too difficult.

6B.)Moral Hazards registry hack for the case fan. (I most likely will be doing this I will be throwing in a 920xm and overvolting my gpu for even higher clocks)

- control fan speed with registry hack

7.)Pelter cooling mod....possible but a pain.

8.)liquid cooling...get a desktop

9.)a few others i haven't listed yet because they are just dumb

Don't have screens shots because I never took any before I started.(note this has the standard Rosewill cooler with no mod)

Temps before mod.

Using ASUS stock clocks of 500 core 1250 shader and 800 memory with disabling throttling you would hit 105C in less then two mins running Prime and FurMark

Room temp back where I used to live were like 64-74F.

Don't have screens shots because I never took any before I finished. (note this has the standard Rosewill cooler with no mod)

Temps with case drilled mod

I drilled the case and fan intake...drilled/cut/grinded(which ever method you use).

I could run Prime and FurMark with overclocks 580 core 1450 shader and 950 memory and hit ~90C give or take depending on room temp, which is a huge increase with just a quick and easy mod.

Room temp back where I used to live were like 64-74F.

Temps after I finished with everything listed above

I don't have room temps because I don't have a temperature thing but it is quite warm right now because I have room heater on full blast. Note the temps before when I lived somewhere else were like 64-74F. In this room it is much warmer then that...maybe 75-80F (I need to turn the heater down because I am starting to sweat lol)

Running with CPU overclock of 140 FSB and GPU of 580 core 1450 shader and 950 memory I idle at ~44C CPU and ~50C GPU. When it is cooler in the room aka with heat off it will idle ~39C CPU and ~45C GPU.

When running F@H (same % of utilization as prime and Furmark)

I am getting 63C CPU and 76C GPU When the room is cooler I run at about 59C CPU and 72C GPU...maybe less at night when it is cold outside and heat is off. Also note the case fan is only spinning at 3350RPM as to when the temp was at 90C or higher the case fan is going 5500-6000RPM If you registry hacked the case fan you could get the temps down a good bit more.

Note I recently was running 145 FSB and it was fine for like a few days but then I started getting BSOD once a day so I turned it down to 140

Gallery of all my pictures

ImageShack Album - 23 images

OTHER USEFUL GUIDES

Great guide for optimizing and talks about flashing vBIOS....it helped me a ton.

An Optimization Guide for the Asus G51

temps with 920xm!!!!!

ImageShack Album - 4 images

direct links

Idle with 85 TDP and OC

http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/9519/idlewith920xmandgpuoc.png

Ide with 60 TDP and OC

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/7849/920xmesidleat60tdp.png

Load with 85 TDP and OC at night

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1265/fhoc85tdpatnightk.png

Load with 85 TDP and OC during the day

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/9981/fhoc85tdpduringtheday.png

EDIT: This is a post I made in NBR F@H thread. I am reducing the OC for CPU while folding during the day because of temp concerns.

EDIT: man i am running at 85C. I need to come up with another option to help reduce temps...too high for me

well i am dropping down to 80 TDP and 26 26 25 24. It dropped like 2 C. I might need to drop it lower because 80-85C is just too hot for longevity.

Well at 75 TDP and 26 26 24 23. it appears that +-5 TDP gets one more or one less multipliers. at that current setting I am getting 80-81C. If i dont have the AC on(its off right now. Its cool in Chicago area right now) i am going to need to drop down a bit because its just too hot.

Well i am going to run at 26 26 23 21 and 70 TDP because that keeps me at 78-80 right now. I'll keep an eye on it since I just got this to work right.

EDIT: Nope I am leaving at 26 26 23 20 for folding. 65 TDP and it runs at 72-75C. I feel safer at those temps.

Before I only folded with CPU and now added my GPU and i think the temps are too high to have both running. It is either CPU full OC and folding or a medium CPU OC with GPU folding. I dont want to burn out my CPU with doign this 24/7. Funny how my GPU was the overheating problem and now with all the mods and upgraded CPU the CPU is now the problem lol.

With CPU at 65 TDP and 260m at 580 1450 950 I am running at 72-75 CPU and 71 GPU. I might look into repositioning my cooling pad to directly blow into my case fan. I have always wanted to build a custom cooling pad but that would be a pain.

ABOUT OVERVOLTING GTX 260m ON G51j

It is not possible via vBIOS please see this forum thread for an explanation. You can do a hardware mod to overvolt but for experienced people only. (requires soldering parts on) Honestly, not worth it because the card is so old.

http://forum.techinferno.com/asus-gaming-notebook-forum/1762-g51j-a1-vbios-its-my-bios-can-someone-help-me.html

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

anyone have any good ideas on how to make the welded copper make good contact? Do you think that it will have good enough contact to work?

[mw86]

Interesting project. Goodluck. Can't really think of any suggestions... all of it seems to have good reasons and theories. When I had a 920xm it was quite hard to use anything with 150mv+. I hope you can cool it like your hoping. 4ghz 8thread on that cpu is extremely hot.

It's a nice project I hope it works out.

SVL7 can give you pointers on the overvolt mod I'm assuming you will pinmod. I'd recomend as little volts as possible. I think I got away with 75mv at 3.7ghz+

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

i can only get 3.33 before BSOD and 3.33 seems finicky. So i seem to be on the low end of stability. So i hope overvolting helps. If the water cooling works i am going to push 200mv or maybe slightly higher. I want 4 GHz or more lol. We will have to see. I figured out how to solder it..just trying to find a g51j cooling assemble so i dont have to worry about botching my only cooling assembly. If you know someone with one i'll buy it. Also whats the best solder to use. I know silver solder exists so i am planning on using that unless someone knows of a better one.

EDIT

ok i was looking here

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

and i can't find any solder that is high silver/copper based. I dont want to use a lead solder because lead is not thermal conductive. the best looks like the silver/tin solder but that is brittle and i think that will be bad for my use in this. All copper ones are low in copper too. Anyone know of the best solder to use

Indalloy 3 looks decent. 90% indium and 10% silver. it has 81.8 W·m−1·K−1 for indium

http://www.indium.com/_dynamo/download.php?docid=162

this makes it seem that the melting point varies compared to wikipedia...93C is an issue lol.

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

sorry for double post but the space and separation is needed.

WHAT DO YOU GUY'S THINK I SHOULD USE

This is the water blocks i am looking at

This has a nice swival feature but i dont like how tall it is.

Koolance CHC-125 (MB) Angled Liquid Cooling Chipset Block

This is nice and small and not too tall so it would fit nicely but i am not sure how big of a copper slab i'll have to mount yet. I would obviously like the biggest waterblock as in surface area as possible but i dont want to push it. This is small and would definitely fit.

Alphacool HF 14 Smart Motion Universal Chipset / GPU Block - Copper Edition

This would fit but a little tall but workable. I don't like the cost of it though. It is super expensive. I bet i can find one cheaper but what do you guy's think.

Enzotech Stealth CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Sockets 775 / 1366

This is even more expensive but a nice waterblock wouldn't stick out too far but is on the larger size. I need to take the bottom panel out again but it seems like it might be a tight squeeze with ~2.5 inches of space needed.

Heatkiller Rev 3.0 1156 CPU Liquid Cooling Block - (14013)

This looks like a nice kit and affordable. I don't know what size this water block is or if I can fit any of the other ones from above either. Does anyone know what the dimensions of the water block are? Also what do you think of this kit? I dont want to make my own because that will take a lot of work with getting all the pieces i need plus i dont know what is good and that would be even more of a pain. Also might even cost more. It would be nicer to have a custom built kit from random parts. Would fit in the cooler nicer but I think that is more work than it is worth unless you guy's want to help me build a kit from parts.

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit

XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ Free Kill Coil! (ETA - mid-June) - FrozenCPU.com

[Jimbo]

I know in Australia there are companies that put together their own kits, I'm sure similar things abound in the US. Brand of block is not all that significant, I've had personal experience with XSPC, Heatkiller, Koolance and EK, heatkiller are probably my favorites. The XSPC kit is how I got into watercooling, but the tubing is average, it only comes with plumbing style hose clamps and the pump died on me after ~ 1 year causing a thermal shutdown. Their new Raystorm kit is the dogs bollocks, if you can afford it and the block will fit it's solved all the old issues.

(Aussie) http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=20462

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

someone suggested the enzotech one because its forged

[Jimbo]

That's unlikely to make much difference, modern metals are damned good in machined form. It might be slightly stronger (assuming it's not drop forged or something, that would be shit), but it won't cool any better.

[svl7]

First of all I'd test whether your motherboard can handle overvolting... it might not and simply crash / shutdown all the time.

Don't bother with silver solder and similar stuff, not worth it. Imo the easiest alloy to solder is something like Sn60Pb38Cu2 or similar. Don't bother about the thermal conductivity, it's not that important since the solder joint should be very thin anyway. You can also use lead-free solder, better thermal conductivity, easy to get, cheap, but it has a higher melting point... which makes it harder to work with.

I'm not sure whether I really understand the picture on which you describe your idea... One thing is for sure, the waterblock needs to make direct contact with the CPU die, else it's not worth the effort at all.

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

it wont be contacting the cpu chip directly because there is no way to mount it....even if i could the threads on the laptop wouldnt be able to support it. I honestly dont see how it wont help if it is not directly on the cpu die. It is mounted to the heatpipes above the cpu...that should be good enough to pull a lot of heat. It will be air/water cooled so i dont see how it wont work or do enough. Also how can I test if my MOBO can handle overvolting? With out good enough cooling i can't test it. Also i dont want to use lead solder. The indium/silver has a low melting point and has the best thermal conductivity. I got a couple interesting ideas that I will try when soldering it and i think it'll work. Even if I can't overvolt or overvolt high enough It is worth a shot to see if my design works and how well.

it goes laptop heatsink-copper heat pipe-copper slab-waterblock. Not a perfect concept but requires little modification to original heatsink and allows the waterblock to be removed with in a minute and still have the original heatsink to stay on it. Also there is no real good way to mount a water block to the die directly. Plus if water cooler dies i still have air cooling. Somewhat of a fail safe. Also soldering the copper slab will be pretty easy. I have thought out my process of doing it. Plus I'll make a couple test samples to try on first so my dad and I can get the process down.

[svl7]

You want to solder the waterblock to the heatpipe and say that it will be possible to remove it within a minute??

Seriously, I gave you some good advice in my previous post. You don't really seem to need it according to your last post... I don't care, but I wonder why you even bother asking if everything is already decided.

I don't really want to repeat myself... you focus way too much on the thermal conductivity of the solder, it doesn't matter since the gap should be as small as possible (<0.1mm). Even if you used lead it will be better than the thermal conductivity between the die and the heatsink, you won't see any difference by using an exotic alloy.

Besides, did you ever check the price of indium? It costs as much as silver, and good luck finding a place which sells such alloys, just saying.

If you don't want to test it before you start purchasing stuff - go ahead, but there's no way to be sure whether it'll work.

You never soldered before and say that it will be "pretty easy"... Good luck with that.

[Jimbo]

I think he plans to mount a piece to the heatsinks that the waterblock will screw onto? That's what I managed to extract.

Personally I would just buy something better than go to all the trouble, I guess that's how great mods are made though. I will be interested to see how (if?) this works.

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

yes i solder the copper slab to the heatsink and mount the waterblock to the copper slab. I dont want to use lead because its hazardous. so if i am not going to use lead than i might as use something good. Again i would like to use that one solder but i question if i can find it.

EDIT:

Also if you know of a good solder that is not brittle and does not have lead i am all ears and willing to go read up on it. The tin/silver is brittle from what i read so i assume that is out of the picture because i dont want to ahve to worry about that.

Also i think this will work because that video of what that guy did supposedly worked and he use used a small thin copper pipe for water cooling. he had minimal contact on the heat pipe and it worked for him from what i heard so i dont see how this wont work. I do wonder how effective it will be but it is worth a shot. Several people say the soldering will be very hard...i think it wont be too difficult because two people will be working on it at once. So i will have 4 hands. Also i have never soldered before but my dad has. I also plan on having at least two test samples to try first before we do the real thing.

[mw86]

Your ideas are valid but there has been some good advice which seems to not be what you want though as mentioned you did ask. I think it could work, I think the copper slab could have a quick release lever mechanism for the water cooling using just paste in between. You should be trying the overvolt. The thing is you can try the overvolt and test at what mhz is stable already right now. For all you know 75mv,150mv and 200mv may cause random shutdowns even at 3.33ghz... So you may find 75mv is most you can do on PSU/mobo limits. Why not solder the slab to the normal heatsink copper but mount it too so there is no possibility of movement if you move laptop... Then the brittle solder which is common to a lot of solder is not an issue. You have a good plan... But solder is not as big a prob.

You may run into heat not being wicked away into the copper slab fast enough and that would make a bigger prob of the watercooling not helping much if most of the heat is being delayed in transfer from original heatsink surface. Unlike desktop chip the die has a much smaller surface and no metallic covering which would actually help heat transfer.

Good luck I'm still hoping you get somewhere but perhaps take into consideration other peoples experiences... Svl7 had his own heatsink designed and milled. Much of the same had to be thought out to do so and he's sure to know some of the caveats of these type of projects.

Goodluck, I hope you meet your goal.

Regards -MW86

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

god damnit this forum is glitchy on opera.

I think the copper slab could have a quick release lever mechanism for the water cooling using just paste in between.

What are you saying? You mean where the water block can just pop on and off? I personally rather have it screwed in for maximum pressure for thermal transfer and secured well. I honestly dont move my laptop ever so i rather have it screwed in. Even with it screwed in it honestly can't take more than 60 seconds to unscrew 4 screws. If you come up with a good idea i'll try it out for shits and giggles. Also about whether or not my MOBO can handle the added voltage I still would want to do this anyways to see if it works. I have done everything i can to cool it by air and there are maybe 1 or 2 different things that I can do to optimize airflow but it will be minimal. Even if 3.33 is the max I am fine with that. I barely can run that at 78-85C with AC on. without AC it will burn up. I still want the water cooling anyways so I can run F@H 24/7 at 3.33 with out AC on. I appreciate the advice on trying that first but I would still do this anyways. Plus it would be good to see if this actually works since it'll give a lot of people new ideas that work for cooling their laptop. If that guys water cooling with the water pipes worked i dont see how mine wont work. Mine has 10 times the amount of contact and a much better application.

Also if you can think of a way to mount the water block to the die itself i am all ears but i dont know how it can be done without some serious modifications to the case.

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

alright i have been talking to Jim Hisert and this is the method i most likely will use. A very slow one though. I think i have to leave it at 140psi for like 40 days lol

Indium Bonding and Indium Cold Welding - Jim Hisert | INDIUM

OK so the indium TIM/cold solder doesn't actually bond it I guess. Misunderstood that. Talking to him now about some options on how to apply this and some different methods. Also I am waiting to hear back from him because I may also try using the indium as a TIM for the CPU. I think from what I understand so far that it is a huge improvement of regular thermal compound. Waiting to hear back and then I'll get back to you guys.

[mw86]

No problem. Direct cooling plate to die contact seems even better sine you would still have thermal paste between the die and copper block anyway. You won't be mobile with it so further case mods should be no prob to aid in mounting liquid cooling plate direct to die. Either way goodluck.

[svl7]

alright i have been talking to Jim Hisert and this is the method i most likely will use. A very slow one though. I think i have to leave it at 140psi for like 40 days lol

Just make sure to post some pics of the the whole assembly after this procedure, I wanna see the thinnest heatpipes in the world, LOL.

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

lol nice svl

[mw86]

Lol, SVL7 is a great joker too cheers they can be nano-cooling pipes

it's just too interesting not to see as much as possible.

I heard diamond transfers heat amazing what about synthetic diamond heat block

[HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL]

you got a million dollars lol. Jim said he might try getting me a couple samples...i honestly dont have the money to buy 100 .5 inch pieces or 20 2 inch pieces. That is like 300 bucks lol. I am really interested to see how it works as a TIM on the cpu. Though there might be issues with ow it diffuses with copper. Waiting for him to email me back. He will get back to me tomorrow. Also I will be calling him tomorrow too so we can talk over the phone about this. I have learned a ton about this stuff lol

@svl7 I obviously wouldn't crush them lol. I would go as high as I could without smush them. I got no clue what pressure they can with stand.