blowntaha

specifically how do I extract it? I already have and tried phoenix tool but couldn't figure out what all the buttons do &thx for sharing that bit on aspm!

[Request] Unlocked VBIOS for the 660M/Y580 so it will allow for voltage to be changed via software (e.g. nvidia inspector) The current BIOS I'm using is ErYani's 1.162 V over volted bios which is based on your unlocked 2.07 bios. However, I'll flash the stock bios/your bios (whichever you'd prefer, since OP says you only work with "stock" bios) before doing any flashing/testing. Also, if you wouldn't mind, could you tell me how you to extract the vbios from the main bios, and then how to "re-attach" it? Thanks, Taha Link to original BIOS (from lenovo's site): http://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles/5dcn40ww.exe

Can anyone who knows how to modify bios/vbios tell me how to extract the vbios from the main bios (.rom)? I tried to use MMTool, but had no luck. I, then, tried to use the windows version of "grep" and was able to install it, but could not get it to open afterwards.. Any and all help is appreciated.

Yeah... those attachment links are invalid. Just download it again, in case a packet went missing/corrupt. Afterwards, right click on .zip file->properties->general tab->unblock->apply->ok and then try extracting it again.

Ebay or aliexpress. They're both typically the same prices, but aliexpress tends to be cheaper. The tradeoff being that you're dealing with (mainly) Chinese wholesale vendors who may or may not speak english well; you can chat with them and the chat box rather poorly translates back and forth. Also, shipping may or may not be free but will take a long time to get to you; and most vendors will not sell *only one unit*, but you can usually find a fair priced item from a willing vendor. If you're patient and willing to go through some hassle for a good deal, go with aliexpress, otherwise ebay.

I'm on 2.07 and my temps stay well below 80. Typically it'll stay between 60-70 depending on what I'm doing. And THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! XDDD EDIT: Just flashed it and it was successful, however the boost clock doesn't show in nvidia inspector, I'll report back once I play a few games. Also, I'm still unable to change voltage via nvidia inspector && microcode is still 0x15, that is, if this is the BIOS you were working on for me (if not just ignore that =d) EDIT2: It still downclocks, I'm running 1320 core / 3000 memory. This is AFTER doing the cleanest, fresh uninstall and install of the new 334.67 beta drivers. Max GPU temp was 72 after 40-60 minutes of skyrim, and it downclocked at the end. This might quite possibly be because of the enb however I'm not sure how/why it would have any influence over the clocks since this rarely happens when I play dota 2 (happened once but as before I flashed any over-volted BIOS). It should be worth noting I changed the ASPM to auto instead of the default LosL1 under advanced->video->pci express graphic since I thought it might not be getting adequate power, also changed package power limit 1 from 45 to 56 and disabled biprochot. I'm using throttlestop with clock modulation @ 100%, chipset clock mod @ 100%, and set multiplier @ turbo checked and enabled; the rest are disabled. BTW, my ASIC quality is 77.5%

Dunno what you're referring to, but if you don't mind shit getting a little complicated then have a look at: nVIDIA mobile Kepler 6xx MASTER overclocking guide. Workaround for max clocks/OC stability. A few things should be noted if you have a go at this guide: When Mobius talks about forcing P-State 2, you want to do force P-State 5 instead. When you're forcing P5, there is a < 5% performance loss, but that's probably negligible. I have no idea why this happens, but I'm guessing it has something to do with the VBIOS. GPU-Z && nvidia inspector also show the 660m using PCIe 2.0 on P5, while on default (P0, under load) it's on PCIe 3.0. The only reason I do this is because my clocks constantly downclock, to 405 core / memory seems to stay same, under moderate/heavy load and this seems to be my only solution. That is, until ErYani is done modding my BIOS, which hopefully fixes this. I didn't test it, but it might also be because it's over volted to 1.175 which I've been too lazy to lower it down a bit. If anyone has a clue on this, please help =)

Hey, I also have a y580 and was looking into egpu. Were there any extra steps you had to do to get it working or were the instructions you followed from the OP sufficient? And, which slot did you use? Also, when you say you were able to disable iGPU AFTER adding egpu, were you able to do this BEFORE the addition of your egpu as well?

Couldn't find this question being asked during my brief search sooo... When you add an external GPU, does this disable the dedicated GPU in the laptop or will you be able to have one of the GPU dedicated to CUDA/physx? I have a y580 and I'm trying to see if I can add another 660m so I could set up an sli setup. And if you're wondering, I do realise I'll need different parts to accommodate the different connections since 660m is a mobile GPU and not desktop. Thanks in advance for any responses.

Thanks for the reply, and I appreciate your answers. One more question, are there any precautions, other than the ones listed in the guide I linked (make sure it's the correct version yada yada), I should take before flashing an ME firmware update? e.g. for bios, its better to flash via DOS, set defaults prior, etc.

When you say ME firmware, I'm assuming you're referring to Intel Management Engine? I came across a couple sites about the IMEI firmware, and whenever I'd search to see what exactly the IMEI handles/does/takes care of and most of them say if you're not performing remote connections then you don't need to worry about it. THEN I found out that you can also "flash" its firrmware and that's where I become utterly confused. If there is a firmware counterpart to the driver, then how does this affect the system as a whole. Ultimately what I am asking is what's the difference between the driver && firmware of the IMEI and what does it do ? Should the driver and firmware versions be the same? EDIT: This is the guide (if it even matters) I was talking about for flashing the ME firmware: http://www.win-raid.com/t171f39-Intel-Management-Engine-Drivers-Firmware-and-Tools.html#msg1866

If I were in your position, I'd just do the RMA. Your ASIC quality is 62.3% which is rather low. Mine is right under 80%, (don't remember exact number). This value is directly proportional to overclockability,in other words a higher ASIC quality percentage will allow higher stable overclocks to be achieved. Since your specific "issue" is BIOS related, they'll replace the motherboard, which means you get a new GPU since the GPU is soldered onto the mobo (and maybe even a new CPU), which ultimately means you'll have a chance at getting something with higher ASIC %.

It's usually QIWY3 or QIWY4 orr QIWY5 or QIWY6. The beep doesn't start happening until after a couple minutes. It's nice to have a USB with an LED indicator letting you know that it's performing reads/writes.

Just don't tell them you flashed an unlocked BIOS XD

Have you tried this?

By doing the steps I listed earlier will ensure that parts from earlier drivers will be removed. When you're installing a new driver and it "says it's uninstalling previous driver" that is never 100% and misses some things that could cause problems.. Here's another guide: [Tutorial] How to install/remove AMD and NVIDIA drivers using a clean method Also, you should be using lenovo dynamic graphics power plan. If that doesn't work then I don't know what to tell you other than to call lenovo. Yeah, I don't know what you're trying to do so.. maybe someone else will help

Not that it matters, but the guide you linked is also located in the beginning of the 8.0x BIOS instructions, on the first page of this thread: Download the flash tool, for flashing you'll need the DOS version, but for creating the backup of your current BIOS the Win64 version will do as well, and it is faster. Get the prr tool as well. . . Grab the modified BIOS you want to flash and the Y580-Y480_BiosFix tool. . . Create a backup of your current BIOS using the flash tool you downloaded (first step) by runing the included backup.bat, or by using the Win or Dos version flash tool with this command: -d BackupBiosY500.bin -bios If you get and 'Error 104', grab this fix and replace the original fparts file with it. . Make sure you have the modified bios which you want to flash, the bios backup you just created and the "Y580-Y480_BiosFix" tool in the same folder. Run the Y580-Y480_BiosFix tool, follow the instructions on the screen. Enter the name of the files correctly, else you'll get an error. It will create a new file for you and will be named after the modified bios file you specified, with 'Fix' appended to it. Here's a screenshot of the tool in use (Y580 version looks the same). In the case shown here it will create a file called "modifiedBiosFix.bin" which you can find in the folder where you run the tool. Use that one for flashing. [ATTACH=CONFIG]5938[/ATTACH] . .. Put the fixed BIOS, the prr.exe tool and the fpt.exe (along with the fparts.txt file) on the root of your prepared DOS bootable USB drive, restart your system and boot from that drive. . . Execut the prr.exe, if you don't get an error message continue by pressing enter. Then flash the bios by using this command (filename.bin obviously needs to be replaced with the name of the file you want to flash). If you can't remember the name of your file, use the command dir to display all the files on your drive. Flash with this:fpt.exe -f filename.bin -bios NOTE: The name of the BIOS file mustn't exceed eight characters (not counting the extension)! That's a DOS limit, so make sure the name of your file isn't too long. Wait until the process is done. After flashing it will verify the data, in case there's something wrong with the flashed data it will tell you. In that case don't reboot, just flash again. It might look a bit complicated at first, but that's the easiest way I could think of. Let me know if anything is unclear. Regarding your question, what BIOS are you trying to flash? I'm assuming you're on the lenovo's locked, default BIOS and you want to flash svl7's unlocked BIOS; if this is the case, you shouldn't be getting errors. Make sure you have the correct file. I noticed you only have 1 post, therefore you can't access the downloads yet, leading me to believe the BIOS you currrently have is corrupt or the incorrect one. So, just post 4 more times so that you can verify that everything is legit and in order. I've never seen that BIOS error, let alone anything in this thread experiencing it, so I can't help you much in that regard. Wouldn't hurt to try this, However, I suggest you use the BIOS downloaded from this site before you go any further. Make sure you're typing everything correctly. This may or may not help, but before extracting the zip files, right click -> properties -> select unblock -> hit apply and OK. Start command prompt as admin by hitting start, type cmd, right click -> run as admin. Once open, type: "cd c:\your\file\path\of\BIOS\Fix<file path="" of="" the="" bios="" fix="">" Obviously without the quotes and add your file path with what's there<file path="" of="" the="" bios="" fix="">. Try copy and pasting all the commands, you can't ctrl-v in cmd, so just right click->paste. I'm nearly certain the problem lies with how you're typing it since the error you're getting is "invalid parameter value specified by user" and that's pretty much saying you typed something wrong.</file></file>

A. What are the default clocks and what clocks do you have to use to be stable (artifact free)? Are you saying you're unable to overclock beyond a certain core/memory clock; or that you're getting artifacts using default clocks? B. From the time that you reinstalled/installed windows/linux/etc (or since you received the laptop, whichever is more recent) until now, did you update your nvidia drivers without uninstalling the previous one? If you've done this a lot of times (even if you haven't, it wouldn't hurt to try), then reinstall your driver by doing the following: Disable windows update and automatic driver installs. If you don't know how to do this then google it. Download/use your preferred software for removing files left behind from driver uninstalls. I've tried Driver Sweeper before, but had issues with it. I've had success with DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller)," found here: Display Driver Uninstaller Thread - Guru3D.com Forums Make sure to remove any and all overclocks and that everything is running on default clocks. Remove/apply defaults all of your nvidia inspector/nvcp (control panel) profiles (you can export and back them up if you want to); and then delete nvidia inspector (optional). I've had times where I don't delete it and it creates weird problems like permanantly renaming nvidia inspector to a random profile shortcut until I reinstall nvidia driver. You can keep the .zip file for inspector if you choose to delete. Go in safe mode, uninstall NVIDIA PhyX and then the NVIDIA driver, and reboot. Stay in safe mode. Run Driver Sweeper/DDU/wtv and remove files left behind and then reboot into normal mode. Wait until windows installs the "VGA adapter" or whatever it's called. You may or may not be notified when it's done. Check device manager under display adapters and make sure you see two items there. Install the driver, select custom installation, and choose whichever components you want (e.g. driver and physx or just the driver), then make sure to select "Perform a clean installation" If you're still getting artifacts at default clocks then try this with the intel driver too, but keep in mind this order: for uninstall, it should be nvidia first, then intel; for install, it should be intel first, and then nvidia. C. While I think the source of your issue is the nvidia driver, what is your ASIC quality? You can find this by running gpu z and right clicking on the top bar (next to the close, minimize buttons). EDIT: Just realized you're using version 295.55 for your nvidia driver, the latest is 332.21... I don't know if this is by choice or you just haven't updated it in a while, but you should definitely use the latest drivers because it sometimes increases performance and going from 295.55 to 332.21 is a pretty big jump so you will for sure notice a big improvement.

Even if this is a stupid question with an obvious answer, can someone reply :3

"artificial bug" meaning... ?

@svl7 I searched this thread for any y580 vbios mods but couldn't find any solutions. I know this has been requested quite a bit sooo... Could you mod the y580 BIOS so that its voltage can be changed via nvidia inspector/evga precision/msi afterburner/etc etc? Right now I'm using ErYani's overvolted BIOS (to 1.175V), which is based on your 2.07 unlocked BIOS, aka GHz edition. GPU-Z ss:

Don't mean to necro this rather old thread but it's the most relevant place to put this question and couldn't find anything on this specific request on my google search journy So, is it not possible to create a bios where it would unlock the ability to change the voltage via nvidia inspector, evga precision, etc etc? If possible, I'd like to request a modded BIOS. My current BIOS is the 1.175 V vbios based on svl's 2.07 unlocked BIOS which was posted earlier in this thread.

Well if you read the first post, where it says "instructions for 8.0x bios" you'll find what you need... The modified BIOS itself is fine and you won't brick your laptop because of something wrong with the BIOS itself (because there isn't). The problems usually arise from how, and under what circumstances, you perform the flashing. Such as you misread/skipped/forgot a step from the instructions from the first post. A generally accepted rule, it's always best to do all flashing via DOS, and apply default settings of your current BIOS before flashing. Read through the instructions 2 or 3 times until you know exactly what to do. Know how to perform BIOS recovery and have a USB ready with your stock/Lenovo website's BIOS with the correct file name (for most, it's QIWY3) so that you'll be able to perform fn+b /fn + r/ etc recovery. Just take those precautions and you have (almost) nothing to worry about.

Can anyone tell me if there are any major improvements to performance to updating the microcode for 3610qm? I'd upgrade my cpu (been looking to get the 3720qm) but I won't be able to afford it for a while. I think my version was 0x17 before my RMA, right now I have 0x15. And how would I go about doing this, I know this is usually done via bios updates, but I know that Linux users are able to implement microcode updates at the kernal level (correct me if I'm wrong). So would this be possible in windows? Also, would anyone mind helping/teaching me or giving me a few pointers on how to get started with modifying the BIOS (as in, making actual edits to the BIOS, not changing settings/flashing modified BIOS)? I know I could just google this and figure it out for myself but I think it's much safer learning from someone who has actually done this for this particular laptop. And, if it matters, my stock BIOS was 2.04 (i think, maybe it was 2.05 i forgot). Thanks in advance for reading/helping

I'm also using a 150W AC adapter and have been for quite some time, with the battery usually left out.