Khenglish

I only hit 80C with fans on auto also with a 1.05V BIOS @1019/4720, and I think I can stay under 75C if I force the fans high. I believe that you have beefier radiators so your temps should be lower than mine. Maybe clevo bends the heatsinks where they contact the GPU die on the P570 like they do on the P150 and P170. Lapping the heatsink and increasing die pressure dropped my temps by almost 20C, and using liquid ultra dropped temps even more. Just something to keep in mind if you want to push more volts. Maybe run the laptop in that meat freezer just once day to beat everyone else

I played POE some and if they just update the water and get rid of the shadow shimmering I think the graphics would be pretty good. I like the look of the game when in caves and other dark places. My main problem with the game is that the combat feels clunky. If they let you attack while moving I feel that the game would be far more fun. ex. run at 2/3 speed while attacking. This change would let ranged kite and melee pursue, but there is still a movement penalty so that attacking or not is still something to consider. As it is now you need to stand in place to do max damage. I like the idea of classes being highly customizable but I feel that the classes are too similar. I feel that classes should be able to overlap, but some classes should just be a bit better at some things than others. The plot is pretty bad. Even worse than today's norm which is just bad. What's the most recent game with a decent plot? I can't think of anything after 2007 (original Bioshock). Everything since has been some butchered combination of games with good plots. SC2 plot was OK but the expansion plot sucked. The game ended before I felt like it even started. D3 plot was stupidly predictable. IMO if Belial was Cain would have been awesome, but instead they make it the dumb kid which everyone could guess. I haven't played crysis 3 but I assume it's plot sucks since the original crysis actually had north korea as a significant power, which is ridiculous. More ridiculous than aliens living underground for thousands of years. Fallout 3 was a terrible terrible terrible combination of the original fallouts in such a way that made no sense at all. BF3 plot? Most people don't even realize BF3 had a single player mode.

Oh the resistor is inline with it. I'm not sure why you would want to do that but it shouldn't do any harm.

I think 5150 joker tried it since he was running x8 2.0. He couldn't even get 10%

Don't power the fan by itself. Without a PWM signal you will kill it. The fan will use true PWM (3.3V, 25KHz), not some hack just to get a variable voltage. I have killed 2 fans thinking otherwise.

It looks like you have an 8mm heatpipe from the CPU, which will only start to get bogged down with an overclocked quad. If you really wanted to add more though, heat pipes will expand and rupture not very far over solder's melting point, which should be 183C assuming they used 63/37 solder. I added a heatpipe once and used a toaster oven to melt the solder, then I applied solder paste and the heatpipe and retoasted it. The heatpipe addition did very little so now I'm going to 1 up the mod by adding an extra radiator Keep in mind that I'm trying to get rid of 80W+ of heat while you only need to get rid of 35W, so your heatsink doesn't need to be as ridiculous. I added a heatpipe when I had 2 6mm's and over double your power draw and got nothing, so you will most certainly get nothing if you try the same. After filling in gaps I would say your next weak link is the radiator, but radiators are a lot of work to replace. Easier would be increasing pressure and polishing the heatsink where it contacts the CPU. Instead of grinding down the posts you can usually put washers or some other shim between the heatsink and the screw heads so that the screws tighten before reaching their depth limit. With proper die contact and air flow I see no reason why your CPU should ever be above 80C.

I think someone has so that he could run more monitors. It will be very difficult to get a performance advantage with the desktop 7970 over even the lowest m18x GPU options so that's really the only use for it on such a strong laptop.

That spacer needs to completely block all air flow around the ran and radiator. Top, bottom, and both sides. I do not see how a solid piece of plastic can do that. You should wrap aluminum foil or tape around the entire radiator and the end of the fan to ensure that 100% of the fan's air flows through the radiator. I guarantee you that if you do this properly that you will have a dramatic temperature reduction.

Oh wow there is a HUGE gap between your fan and the radiator. Hardly any of the air from the fan is even going through the radiator. Wrap some aluminum foil or tape or something else around the end of the fan and radiator to make sure that all air from the fan flows through the radiator. Your die contact looks fine. If it was a problem you would have good idle temps but poor load temps. Since your idle temps are also poor it means that heat is getting from the CPU to the heatsink, but it can't leave the heatsink due to lack of air flow.

I've gotten die scratches from shin-itsu and pk-1. I did have ICD once and it also added scratches. My CPU die is a mess. Luckily none of the scratches were deep enough to hit the substrate ground layer so it still works fine. You can probably knock a few degrees off CPU temps by sanding/polishing off the protective layer which is likely SiO2, which is very poor at conducting heat. Obviously sanding too deep is very bad though . I'm surprised I haven't heard of LN2 or liquid helium guys trying it. I would not be surprised if it made a 10C+ difference at the 300W or so that their CPUs pull. Also this is the third post that I've done where the page goes blank after submitting, then when going back to the thread I find an update of my post containing my entire post.

I can't remember the last time I got hardware that did not make noise. My HX850 makes that buzzing sound. My last laptop buzzed. My 550W OCZ PSU buzzed and chirped. My 580 clicked, my 460 clicked. even my gf4 4200 clicked for each frame. Maybe my np2096 was silent. I can't remember. This laptop buzzes with a 19.5V PSU plugged in, but not a 19V (technically built for 19V). It also makes a click for each frame rendered. Headphones that are plugged in literally make an audible click for each frame. It's quiet so usually I can't hear it, but it's there. Personally I'd rather use fraps to track my FPS. Maybe clevo shouldn't have taken out so many capacitors from design to production to save on costs. There are at least a dozen empty capacitor pads on the motherboard.

Why do you think it's too thin? I feel like that would make it not spread as well so you end up with more paste between the die and heatsink. In a perfect world the heatsink and die would be perfectly flat so that thermal paste could only hurt temps. And wow 680m only hit 63C @954MHz after an hour of BF3. Room temp was 20C. Fans were on high, but still impressive. It looks like I dropped 5C from the 680m and 3C from the CPU compared to PK-1 before it dried out. Temps look 10C better compared to dried out PK-1 temps. The GPU temps improved a bit more since I also raised the pressure. Paste was ending up a bit thick on one end of the die. The 680m now has no jump at all when going from idle to load. It just slowly climbs like it should. Looks like it's time now to order a 330W PSU to run more volts. The way I applied it was I put a small drop in the middle of the die, then I put some pressure on the brush so that the bristles flattened out, allowing me to spread the paste over the whole die very easily. This stuff is much easier to spread than any other thermal paste. After reading that you may be thinking, "Well the dot method is likely easier", but I would not get as good results with that method as spreading paste myself. Too much paste would permanently stay in the middle of the die.

If only you could OC xeons then someone could make an 8 core thread to 1 up you guys. They have 5MB more cache too.

I did both my CPU and 680m and I still have a ton left over. This stuff can be spread extremely thin. Coating an IHS though for the 3930k probably took a lot though.

The liquid ultra stuff arrived. Wow this stuff is amazing. My 1st mount blows my best PK-1 mounts away. I actually see 50s for a bit now when putting the CPU under load.

Thanks for the part number!

Good luck. I hope it turns out well.

Ports not listed and not disabled by BIOS are present on the chipset, but not wired on the motherboard, so you can't use them. AIDA64 will report ports as empty if they are unoccupied and the BIOS did not disable it. Port numbers are hardwired and cannot be changed. If your mPCI-E and expresscard slots are either ports 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, or 7/8 then you can do x2. As for x2 performance you will have between 60% and 80% of x16 performance usually. x1 does not perform well at all and usually is not worth doing.

I'm so jealous of that memory. I tried looking for where I could get those sticks but the only places that had them were very overpriced. Have you tried lowering your tRP? Usually DDR3 can run tRP lower than tRCD and sometimes even CAS.

I vote for popping off that IHS and putting on real water cooling to drop temps by ~25C. That alone should get you at least 100MHz at the same voltage. Also that is a very good CPU if 1.31V @4.8GHz is stable.

Does anyone know where I could get the 7.4mm x 5.0mm DC-in connector that fits the P170EM? I'm looking to replace the smaller connector on my P150EM so that I don't have to cut up PSU cables to make them work. The P150EM motherboard does have the solder points for it, but connectors I have found from other laptops do not have matching solder points so I can't use them. This should be an easy change with a soldering iron assuming I can get one.

Are temps still fine with the 1.05V BIOS? svl7 does have 1.075V and 1.1V BIOS if you PM him.

@l3lacker: Here are some examples: x2.1 means x2 link running PCI-E 1.1 x1.2 means x1 link running PCI-E 2.0 x1.2opt means x1 link running PCI-E 2.0 with optimus compression x2.2 means x2 link running PCI-E 2.0 Now PCI-E 2.0 requires some more explanation. PCI-E 2.0 has a slightly different protocol than PCI-E 1.1. It is possible to run the PCI-E 2.0 protocol at the same bandwidth as PCI-E 1.1, even though 2.0 has a specification for twice the bandwidth. Your PM55 chipset supports the PCI-E 2.0 protocol, but only at the same data rate as PCI-E 1.1 (2.5gt/s), not the higher 5.0gt/s data rate. The x1.2 terminology here always refers to the higher 5.0gt/s data rate, which is supported on 6 and 7 series chipsets, but not 5 series. So unfortunately you cannot run the higher data rate. It also looks like you do not have integrated graphics, so optimus compression will not run. It may be possible to do x2 though. x2 has a significant performance hit, but it can still perform respectably, especially with a base clock overclock. From SANDRA it looks like you do not have a spare mPCI-E or expresscard slot, but some BIOSes will disable these ports if no device is detected on bootup. If you do have a slot that is being disabled use AIDA64 to figure out the port numbers of that port and your wireless card port.

Nice to see these systems come alive. I wonder if PCI-E 3.0 would work? The fact that clevo didn't even let the system use 2.0 though makes me feel that that is unlikely. The benefit would be tiny anyway. So you guys have proper voltage control now? I see that the 4.2ghz shots were 1.311 VID instead of the normal 1.351 that I normally see for 3.4ghz+

If you can't find a driver that says it's for win8 then try win7 and vista drivers. Usually they work OK. Sometimes even XP drivers will work, but don't count on it.