MrTwisT

There's your answer - you most likely ruined your MBR attempting to set up dual boot. Nothing to do with the BIOS

Never had an issue with the SSDs going out. Sounds like a corruption/hardware issue. Try plugging your SSD into another machine and see if it appears there. Could be that the failure is just a coincidence and has nothing to do with the fact you flashed your BIOS.

It's a silicon lottery. Looks like you shouldn't overclock your card as this particular unit is unstable

I bought a 680m from that seller exactly. Great prompt communication and even got a discount

You could try flashing the latest official Clevo BIOS and EC (sometimes you need to flash the EC first to avoid a brick, but you need to confirm for your model). I searched around and saw one of the instructions specified you need to have a specific version of EC before updating to the later one. I would do some more research to see how to properly get to the latest BIOS and EC state for your model.

Don't ever mess around with BIOS flashing if you don't need to. Only update/change your BIOS if there is a need. ME and IME are related, but not the same thing. ME FW - Management Engine Firmware. It's an intel specific firmware that lives in the chipset. It deals with controlling some parts of the CPU on on hardware level. The ME FW controls overclocking limits, for example. IME - Intel Mangement Engine Components. This is the system driver for the engine. It allows the system to control the hardware on a software level. Don't mess with different versions of the BIOS and EC. The EC is the Embedded Controller Firmware, controlling the interface between your keyboard/touchpad/etc and the operating system. In CLEVO systems it usually interoperates with the BIOS. If you mismatch the BIOS and EC (Older BIOS, newer EC) - you could brick your laptop. That is probably the reason why your backlight stopped working.

Nothing really. 1 - Seems to be a USB connector for camera/3d display (probably for different laptop models) 2 - Seems to be some kind of debugging port. Lot's of motherboards have them, sometimes unpopulated (with no connector) 3 - Seems like a connector for a bluetooth module judging by location and the BT label on the cable. Probably USB as well 4 - Third WI-FI antenna. Only used with 3-antenna WI-FI modules. You're not missing anything. Different laptop models often share the same motherboard, so some models will have certain ports populated, others not.

Windows doesn't know what proper battery voltage is. Voltage is not necessarily an indicator of capacity and charge. Different batteries have different voltages and discharge rates, you'd need a driver for each battery type for windows to have some sort of estimate. In reality, the battery's circuit reports the charge AND remaining time to the system. Some clevo models don't show remaining time because the circuit only reports percentage. "Do some wiring stuff" is not a magical term that solves any problem. You don't see guides online like "Step 1 - Do some wiring stuff. Step 2 - Enjoy your mod." Putting two charging circuits in parallel across the cells in the battery is not a good idea - something will short out. You'd need to modify the closed-source/proprietary original control circuit to disable its own charging function, since you'd have two circuits outputs shorted together. Moreover, that circuit probably already has protection against "do some wiring stuff". It could be that if it detects a cell's voltage does not drop or the current draw is higher than that cell can provide it deduces something's wrong or someone is trying to tamper with the battery - so it disables that cell or reports a faulty battery to the system. Laptop batteries while sound dumb and simple enough are far from dumb and simple. They are complex devices designed to be tamper proof and safe. It's not that the designers don't want people tampering with them because "we don't want people to have fun!", but because Li-Ion, Li-Po batteries are dangerous if handled incorrectly - they explode, burn, leak, etc. - and that is grounds for legal action for many consumers. Second of all, it's not as simple as simply having the battery provide more juice. It's not the battery limiting the power draw, but the system's EC firmware itself. The whole system is designed with multiple kill-switches. The motherboard power controller will limit the power draw from the battery itself because it knows the battery probably can't provide high current. It's probably not even to protect the battery but the motherboard itself from too much power.

Pretty sure Prema didn't make any VBIOS'es... Do you mean SVL7's VBIOS or Prema's BIOS?

A cold joint is formed when the joint is either disturbed during cooling or the joint was dirty/no flux was used during soldering. The crystal structure of the solder is disturbed and the connection is unreliable. I would not advise using the heatgun for soldering the chip back in place - you'll heat up the whole chip which could expand slightly and contract when cooling, potentially disturbing or forming stress on the solder joints. However, the chip is small and the number of pins is not huge, so I would not expect it to be a problem in this case. In general, I would advise always using the soldering iron to solder things back into place - you have more control and can fix pin alignment as you go, as well as avoiding putting too much heat on the chip (as you would with a heatgun). I think you may have the wrong idea that flux is a magic substance . All it does is clean the surface you're about to solder, prevents forming of an oxide layer to aid said soldering and keeps the solder from spreading out. Over-heated flux "burns" and makes the joint dirty, so you need to clean old flux off with some rubbing alcohol before applying any more and performing the soldering I would also advise against reusing the solder already on the board. Old solder can be dirty and may be harder to work with. It's always better to use new solder when soldering a new chip on. Here's the steps required for a successful procedure: - Use the heatgun to heat the old chip (apply some flux to the pins with the flux pen beforehand). Remove with tweezers. Don't move the board or touch any other components as their joints could be hot enough to melt the solder and you risk them falling off or accidentally swiping them away with your tweezers. - Use a solder wick and the soldering iron to wick away old solder. Make sure the pads on the board are flat as they are clean from solder. - Apply some rubbing alcohol on a micro-fiber cloth and rub any old flux off. - Apply some flux to the pads with a flux pen, place the new chip on the pads. - Prepare the soldering iron with a THICK tip, like a chisel or flat (common mistake is to use a small thin tip - never do that. Thin tips do not have enough thermal capacity to keep the joint hot. If you use a thin tip you will find it frustrating and almost impossible to solder). - Inspect the (hot) soldering iron tip. Is it clean? Apply some solder to the tip, not too much and wipe the tip on a damp sponge to clean the tip (yes, just run the hot iron on the sponge). Apply some solder (a little amount) to the tip again (this is called tinning). - Don't hesitate at this point, if you wait too long the rosin flux in the solder on the tip will dry/burn and make the tip dirty again. - Apply soldering iron to one pin on the chip (not the pin exactly. Just hold the tip such that it touches both the pin and pad to heat both). Heat it well for around 5-10 seconds. Without lifting the soldering iron apply some solder to the pin so it melts in. If the chip moved, realign it at this point. Lift the soldering iron and let the joint cool. - Perform the same operation to the diagonal opposite pin. Your chip should now be aligned perfectly. - Perform soldering on the remaining pins. Clean the tip and re-tin it occasionally to prevent burnt-on flux. - (optional) IF you accidentally form a solder bridge between 2 pins (applied too much solder) don't panic. Use the solder wick to wick away excess solder (Put wick on solder joint, put iron on top of wick, heat it up, watch solder get sucked into wick). - You may need to reapply some flux during the soldering - if you spend too much time on one joint you may dry out the surrounding flux. - After you are done with the soldering, let the joints cool for a minute. Apply alcohol to a microfiber cloth (or a toothbrush, they work really well!) and clean the chip and surrounding areas from any remaining flux. Don't use paper towels - they shed fibers which stick everywhere. - (optional) Realize you've soldered the chip the wrong way around and repeat the whole operation (happens to the best of us). Again, please do find an unwanted PCB and practice a few times on some chips. This operation is not as easy as it sounds. You WILL screw up your first attempt. You need to get a feel for how much solder is too much/too little. You may find that if you spent too much time on one pad and heat it too much it will lift off the PCB and ruin the board. There are lots of small things that you need to learn and get a feel for before you are ready. Literally ANY old board. Ask friends, go dumpster diving, check for any broken equipment you may have. Printers, monitors, PCs, keyboards, mice, scanners, anything will do, just take it apart.

Trust me, I'm an electrical engineer It may LOOK simple and easy, but it's even easier to mess up. I checked the video and the chip doesn't look as big as I expected, so your chances are higher than I initially anticipated Still, if you have the opportunity - practice on some dead/old boards before attempting this fix. You may find that the heat from the heatgun will loosen all the surrounding passive components or even blow them off the board if the air current is strong. In the video he uses the blower to solder the chip back. I advice against that since you will end up with a cold joint as the whole chip cools. You'd better use the soldering iron to solder it back. First, tack one corner pin onto the PCB. Then solder the diagonal opposite pin. That way you will align all the pins correctly and can solder then one by one and ensure a reliable connection. Good luck!

Do not, I repeat, do NOT attempt this on your first try - you are more than likely to ruin your motherboard. I STRONGLY recommend you get one or a few old motherboards and practice chip removal AND re-soldering before coming anywhere close to your main board. Watch some electronics engineering videos on youtube for some advice and tutorials on how to do this. You will need some more things along with the flux. I recommend getting a no-clean flux pen (non-corrosive!). You will need a solder wick to wick away extra solder and clean the board pads. Make sure it's a thin braid - just a few millimeters wide (1.5 would be best). Get some 66/33 solder with a rosin core, something thinner than 0.5mm, I recommend the Multicore brand. Keep in mind you need a solder wick for leaded solder, as they come for leadfree solders as well, which is not what you want. You will need some rubbing/iso-propyl alcohol to clean the pads and clean away excess flux. This might seem daunting and stressful, and it very well could be. If you are unable to practice on any other boards I strongly recommend you have someone with experience do the replacement for you, i.e. electronics repair services. Whatever path you choose - I wish you the best of luck in bringing the board back to life!

Pretty sure Dell never made 4GB 680m's... Someone correct me?

I've got a somewhat rarer Clevo p151em. -Just upgraded from a 670m to a 680m -Intel i7 3610qm -8GB RAM -1TB Samsung 840 EVO (main SATA port) -500GB Samsung 840 EVO (optical drive caddy) -240GB Crucial M500 (mSATA port) -Intel 7260AC wifi (+BT) Mods: -Modded in an Xbox controller receiver myself (used unpopulated USB pads for 3D displays) -Replaced original aluminium CPU radiator with a copper one -Foil tape mod -svl7 vBIOS -Prema BIOS (thanks guys!)

1. Elaborate. What methods? CPU first? Heatsink first? Spread? X? Pea? Line? What paste? 2. Ok 3. Again? Also, decreases down to 10C? I'd love to see any machine do that 4. Do you mean copper shim or thermal pad? Wood is not a good thermal pad... 5. Duh 6. Irrelevant in this day and age, try 10 years ago. 7. Why? I have a nagging suspicion you're trying to get 5 posts quickly...