Aeyix

Ok, so I've read through this entire thread and the sticky trying to understand everything possible, can someone confirm the following? I'd definitely love to be able to upgrade from the 680M I currently have to the 980M. I already have the Prema Mod v2 flashed in my P150EM, that's been there since last summer. From the looks of it, if I order, it should be from Eurocom or Mythlogic because they are working with Prema which I assume means they have custom vBIOS's already flashed to the cards. If that's the case, I presume that means I shouldn't use the MXM vBIOS mod on Prema's website. I've seen the Eurocom upgrade video and from what I've read, with these cards bought from these resellers, it is purely plug and play and just install any driver. The BIOS won't recognize the card but Windows should since they don't require a modded inf file.

Edit: nevermind, answered my own questions

Is there a way to remove the windows watermark on the bottom right. I think it is from the BIOS settings. It says: Windows 8.1 Pro SecureBoot isn't configured correctly Build 9600 I made sure UEFI mode is enabled and then under OS's chose Windows 8 on my Clevo P150EM. My other Clevo P150EM is running an older stock BIOS and also has the same Win 8.1 Pro OS on it but doesn't have this watermark. So I'm not sure what's occurring exactly. I think I configured SecureBoot right since my boot logo changed and I don't even see the Windows 8 logo anymore. Edit: Nevermind, after using Windows Update it seemed to go away. I am curious though as to using standard booting compared to the UEFI being enabled and the OS Selection in the BIOS being Windows 8. What does that add exactly to booting? Also, I noticed for my boot oder, there is Windows Boot Manager automatically enabled as the first item. I had my BD-ROM enabled as #1 in the order but the BIOS automatically changed this when I installed Win 8 onto my SSD which was placed in boot position #2 but now it is in #3. Should I remove Windows Boot Manger from the list? My other Clevo P150EM doesn't have this in the BIOS options so I'm kind of confused.

Thanks, I'll keep this in mind if I get the balls to tweak my RAM again. It's funny, everything I've learned with computers always seems to come from what I believe to be royally screwing something up (I remember the first time I learned to reinstall an OS and freaked out when the resolution was messed up). Thanks again!

Yea, once I changed the RAM setting in XTU, I hit apply, it told me it needed to restart and let it and that's when it wouldn't boot. I don't know how to reset the CMOS (or what that does exactly) on the P150EM but thankfully pulling out most of the hardware and reseating it seemed to fix the issue. I guess this means I will never touch the RAM again in XTU. I assume this is system based on not RAM based because I will be putting in lower voltage and tighter timing RAM in today.

I just purchased a Clevo P150EM on ebay and have slowly been tweaking it before putting in all of my new hardware. The computer will no longer boot to even the BIOS screen now. It turns on and the fans spin up for a few seconds then it turns back off. I flashed the vbios with a 1v overvolt mod and the computer worked fine after doing so even when gaming. I then flashed the Prema BIOS mod which flashed fine and the computer would boot and have no isses. I now just installed Intel XTU and required a restart to use. Everything booted just fine. The problem is after applying some changes in XTU to the CPU and RAM it required a reboot so I did so and now the BIOS won't even come up. Did I brick the system? Is there a way to fix this? Please help! Edit: Ok, so I switched the RAM from under the kb to near the cpu and it booted but now the mSATA drive doesn't show up, just the HDD. Edit Edit: I removed the mSATA, and placed it again and now I booted into Windows finally. I'm not sure but did I fry the two RAM slots under the kb? I relaunched XTU and it applied my CPU settings but said it couldn't implement the RAM settings. All I did was change the multiplier so that instead of 1600 it'd be 1866. I didn't change the timings at all. The RAM is rated for 1600. Is that the issue? Edit Edit Edit: I moved the RAM back to under the kb and everything works again like originally. Does anyone know what the heck happened that prevented booting?

Own: Clevo P150EM (right Win key) | Windows 8.1 Pro | 240GB Intel 520 | 8GB 1.5V Corsair Vengeance CL9 1600MHz | GTX 675M | i7-3610QM | Blu-Ray Reader | Intel N 6300 | 72% FHD Matte Display | Just purchased on ebay: Clevo P150EM (left Win key) | Windows 7 | 128GB Crucial M4 mSATA | 750GB 7200rpm | 16GB 1.5V Patriot CL11 1600MHz | GTX 680M | i7-3840QM | Blu-Ray Reader | Bigfoot N 1202 | 95% FHD Matte Display | Just purchased online: 500GB Samsung EVO | Intel AC 7260 | 16GB 1.35V Corsair Vengeance CL9 1600MHz | Final build plan (and hopefully functions fine for the next 5 years, everything else left over I'm selling and hope to recoup most funds): Clevo P150EM (left Win key, Prema Mod) | Windows 8.1 Pro | 500GB Samsung EVO | 16GB 1.35V Corsair CL9 1600MHz | GTX 680M (svl7 Mod) | i7-3840QM | Blu-Ray Reader | Intel AC 7260 | 95% FHD Matte Display |

Hi, I'm from Illinois and a college student at the University of Illinois. I study the weather basically. I'm trying to get the best out of my P150EM possible while learning a lot about tech that I couldn't even have fathomed. I recently bought a P150EM to swap parts since they were better than mine but with the better condition and newer revision of the exact model laptop, I'm keeping the new one while replacing internals. Essentially by the end, no part will be the same as before as if I had just purchased a completely new laptop. I'm hoping I can sell the old stuff locally to recoup funds (a bit of a gamble) but I'm looking for this to be a half decade upgrade. This community seems really awesome with all the modding and sharing. I really looking forward (and somewhat nervous of bricking something) to trying out some mods to squeeze more juice out of my system while supporting the developers.

I'm stuck trying to decide between the Asus VN248H-P, Asus PB238Q, and Dell U2312HM as my replacement monitor. I've been searching for roughly a month now for a 24" 1920x1080 IPS matte display that has most of what I need for my circumstance. These 3 are the final ones I've narrowed it down to but I'd like your opinions. The rundown: In the immediate moment: -I need to be able to connect my Xbox 360, which requires VGA connection, and my laptop (which has the other 3 outputs). As a convenience: -Built in speakers or a 3.5mm jack for audio pass-through is strongly preferred for when I dock my laptop so that I can have centered audio instead of using my laptop's speakers off to the side when not using headphones. -Also, USB connectivity is another convenience that I like, although not as important to me as audio, so this way I can connect my keyboard, mouse, and headphone DAC/Amp to my laptop via one cable whenever I dock instead of connecting 3 each time (assuming this won't hurt the 1000Hz polling rates or DAC audio quality) For the future: -I'd like to have HDMI connectivity in case I ever decide to purchase a PS4 or Xbox One -Not too bulky of a monitor or stand to transport (student so I do move around enough) -Again against bulkiness, in a couple of months I'd like to buy a 2nd monitor for a dual monitor setup, preferably the same model and possibly get a dual monitor VESA stand My Thoughts: -I like the VN model a lot. It seems to have everything I want except USB and a sturdy adjustable stand. Also it is the cheapest of the three and according to PCPartPicker often dips largely in price for weeks at a time. Although, based on reviews, I expect it to have the weakest color production and contrast ratio of the 3. It also has a nice narrow bezel and is lightweight for VESA mounting and transporting. Also it is the only monitor close to 24". -The PB model is practically perfect having every connection possible. The only downside is the size of it is quite large and heavy which is very off-putting. -Lastly the Dell seems to be a balance of options being midweight between the three. Unfortunately there is no audio pass-through or HDMI. I'm sure I could use HDMI to DVI for a next-gen consoles but that would restrict me to only headphone audio. I'm leaning on the VN model and waiting for the price to dip again and just picking up a USB hub for my three peripherals. -Another thought I've had is when Nvidia's G-Sync module will start shipping in monitors and if it will support 600M Kepler series GPUs to an external output. If this is the case, I might want to wait instead. What are your thoughts/opinions of the three monitors? Thanks!

I'm running the exact same headphone and DAC combo! Absolutely love it second to none. I do wish I had the PC 350 SE's though for flip the boom to mute, on earcup volume (hate inline so much), braided cable, and travel pouch.

Hi, I just got a GTX 680M for my Clevo P150EM and would like to take better advantage of the horsepower that this card has. I'm just a little nervous with the whole flashing the card and risking bricking it aspect as well as the large amount of vBIOS's to choose from. I've looked up the whole flashing process and measures to prevent causing error but I'm still unsure of which version to use. What exactly are the differences between each of the following versions? Clevo 680m - 80.04.33.00.10 'OCedition' revised_01.zip (122.3 KB, 237 views) Clevo 680m - 80.04.29.00.01 'OCedition' revised_01.zip (52.5 KB, 163 views) Clevo 680m - 80.04.33.00.10_'OCedition'_revised_01 - OV 1000v.zip (121.6 KB, 218 views) Clevo 680m - 80.04.33.00.10_'OCedition'_revised_01 - OV 1025v.zip (121.6 KB, 225 views) Clevo 680m - 80.04.33.00.10_'OCedition'_revised_01 - OV 1050v.zip (121.6 KB, 260 views) Clevo 680m - 80.04.67.00.01 'OCedition' revised_01.zip (112.8 KB, 308 views) My understanding is that they all remove the artificial 135 core overclock limit but beyond that I don't really know the difference. I'm kind of hoping to find a version that automatically has higher max clock speeds, still downclocks when not in full use, plays well with Optimus, and doesn't cause temps too high that I need to use external cooling. I don't want to have to overclock every time I play if possible by resorting to software like MSI Afterburner. Essentially a fire and forget vBIOS. I'm assuming one of the overvolted vBIOS's is what I want but I'm not sure. Also what is the difference between 33 and 67? Thanks!

Hi Prema, I'm contemplating flashing in your bios mod for my Sager NP9150 (Clevo P150EM) but had a couple of questions. Firstly, I have the following BIOS and EC versions on my computer: BIOS: 1.02.14bLS2 EC: 1.02.11SA Is there any flashing I would need to do first or can I just flash your BIOS directly? I don't fully understand all of the features in your post but what benefits would I get/see from flashing your BIOS? Is all overclocking and timing adjustment only through intel XTU? Or is some of that available in the BIOS itself? Are there any incompatibility issues with Windows 8? Also, unrelated side note, if I wanted to run RAM at 1866MHz, do I need to buy 1866 RAM or can 1600 be overclocked? Thanks!