MattyB

Is it different to the standard 015.022.000.001 vBIOS? There is this one on TechPowerUp but it's probably the one you already have https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/181795/181795 All I can see is that is says it's 0.9V

Couldn't really say. There probably isn't a lot to a BIOS file but I'm no expert.

Not sure sorry, I've never done it on an 18. The FD file needs to be renamed to an HDR file so that could be part of your problem. I'm just not sure what you have to rename it to. With the M17x R4 you rename it M17R4.hdr but the 18 will have it's own name to use. Maybe it doesn't matter what you call it, just as long as it's a .hdr Wouldn't want to say for sure, you'll have to do all this at your own risk.

The post I saw didn't have much information unfortunately. To do the force flash on the M17x R4 you have to put the USB drive in the e-sata port, remove the system battery and hold END while plugging the power in (from memory) but I don't know what this other guy did. It's possible that he just plugged the USB in and it started the flash but I wouldn't want to say for sure. it's always possible that doing the flash wrong will permanently brick your board. If you do get the blind flash to work it's important not to disrupt it too early. It can sit there beeping like mad for an hour sometimes. Just walk away and leave it until you are sure it's done

One guy says he just created a bootable USB with the A05 BIOS, ran it and it fixed it for him.

So it's just a single beep code? I have resurrected a few single beep M17x R4's using a forced BIOS flash with a USB. The process should be the same with the 18 but I haven't seen a specific guide on how to do it with the 18 and I believe you have to name the flash file something specific for it to work. I have a CH341A but I've never bothered trying to work out how to use it.

I have seen some people who got the sound to work again, I'm not sure how though. I will try and do some digging. Maybe this can help. I think it has something to do with getting the right process order. Is the system set to PEG?

Technically, driver support for the 780M ended some time ago but you can usually modify the newer drivers to accept the unsupported cards. These drivers obviously have not been optimised for the unsupported cards but it can be a workaround to play games that can only be played on specific drivers. The newest drivers are only for Win10 and 11 though so you can't do this if you're still on Win7.

With the Windows 10 update I usually just use the Media Creation Tool to Update This PC and it tends to work without an issue. You can use the USB option but I sometimes find that if the system hasn't had Windows 10 on it before then when it finishes installing you won't get an activated licensed Windows 10. If you're having issues then I would use the Windows 7 installation CD (if you still have it) and format the drive and do a fresh installation. If you just have the Home version then you'll have to download all the drivers from Dell Support first as you won't have any internet after the fresh install. There is a suggested driver installation order for Windows 7 http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/how-to-clean-windows-7-install-driver-install-order-guide-for-alienware-systems.556721/ With the driver mod here is a basic rundown of how I do it. It seems like a lot but only takes a few minutes Download the latest driver for your GPU Download DDU Run DDU in Safe Mode to remove the old driver files Try to run the driver and let it fail, do not close it down Go to your C: drive and Copy and paste the NVIDIA folder in the C: drive so there will also be an NVIDIA - Copy folder Close the failed installer and the original NVIDIA folder will disappear Go to Device manager and find the codes for your GPU/Laptop. I save one of the lines onto a notepad for later - codes are found in Device Manager - Display Adapters - right click on the GPU (or Microsoft Basic Display Adapter) - Properties - Details - Select Hardware ID from the dropdown - The GPU code is the 4 digits directly before &SUBSYS - The laptop code is the first 4 digits of the 8 digit number - The manufacturer code is the last 4 digits of the 8 digit number. The Dell code is 1028 Open the nvdmi.inf and scroll down to the first list of Hardware ID's Change one of the lines so that it contains your GPU code and Laptop Model Code. There are two places in the Hardware ID that need to have your GPU and Laptop codes %NVIDIA_DEV.13D7.0550.1028% = Section045, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_13D7&SUBSYS_05501028 13D7 is the GPU code in the line above. 13D7 is for a 980M 0550 is the Laptop code in the line above but yours will be different With older drivers there was support for Windows 7, 8 and 10 so this list will repeat itself two more times. Scroll down and make the same changes in each identical list so you make sure you get the right OS for your machine. This step is often missed and usually the reason for a failed installation Scroll almost to the bottom of the .inf and find the strings. Change one of them to again include your GPU and Laptop code and the GPU description. Yours will need to say "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780M" NVIDIA_DEV.13D7.0550.1028 = "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980M" Save and exit the .inf and close the folder. Restart the laptop with Disable Driver Signature Enforcement. The process is different from Windows 7 and 10. - It will default back once the system restarts so you have to install the driver directly after this When it restarts go to the NVIDIA - Copy folder and run the Setup.exe from inside the International folder The driver should install. Part way through the installation a red/white warning will pop up. Just agree with it and the driver will finish installing.

Awesome! No need for a beer, I drink too much already. Did you manage to get a modded driver to install?

Usually for the 780M to work in the R3 you have to disable HD Audio in the BIOS. Once everything is installed you can try to enable it again to get your sound back. I've heard some people say that they didn't have to disable it but then other had to. This could be your issue. It's also possible that the GPU has failed or is pretty close to failing. Yes, there is no integrated graphics with the 3D screen. The display is run directly off the dedicated Nvidia card so the Intel graphics is permanently disabled. Also make sure that your BIOS is set to PEG video mode. If the 3D screen is set to any other mode it will not boot. If you do get Windows to load then you will have to mod the .inf to get a driver to install. Also, Windows 10 will work on the R3. I have a few R3's that are all running Windows 10 with no issues. Once you get it working with Windows 7 installed then you can go to Microsoft and use the Media Creation Tool to upgrade to Win10. If you installed Win7 using the old Alienware installation CD then you can get Win10 as a free upgrade.

I'm not sure if there is an MXM 1050 card available but a few people have done the 1060 and 1070 upgrade. The 120hz display is suggested for this upgrade because these cards don't seem to like Optimus. They will work but you may have some throttling issues.

It could be a number of things. If the BIOS doesn't detect the card then just check if it detects the Integrated graphics. If it does detect it then your system may be in iGFX mode. You will need to get it into PEG mode to detect the dedicated card. The M18x doesn't use Optimus (SG - Switchable Graphics) by default so it will only run in iGFX (integrated Graphics) or PEG (dedicated graphics) which can be switched in Windows using the the Function buttons. The Alienware OSD driver must be installed to use this feature. Having the unlocked BIOS will allow you to switch between video modes in the BIOS rather than Windows. SG mode can also now be used if you are just using a single dedicated GPU. If the machine will boot, go to Device Manager - Display Adapters and see what graphics is listed. If it says Intel 4000 then you're in iGFX and if it says Microsoft Basic Display Adapter then you're in PEG. This is your 980M without a driver installed. Unlocked BIOS gives driver support for the 900 series cards. If you use original BIOS then you'll have to install a modded Nvidia driver to get it to work. Strange fan controls could be due to a bad or incompatible vBIOS on the 980M. You may want to look into flashing a different vBIOS. Be careful though as flashing any BIOS or vBIOS can result in a bricked board or GPU if it doesn't go to plan. If you can get the card detected in Windows then you can use GPU-Z to look up the current vBIOS on the card. Go to TechPowerUp and search for the vBIOS version. If it's for a different laptop manufacturer then try to find a Dell or Alienware version. You may also want to check that you have the thermal pads installed on the card correctly and you're using a good thermal compound. If the card is overheating then your fan will work overtime and you'll end up killing the GPU. You need to use the primary GPU slot for a single card. This is the slot that has the shorter stubby looking heatsink. Also make sure that your heatsink is the 3-pipe 100W version. There should be a sticker on the heatsink. If you are upgrading from a 660M then you probably have the lower Wattage heatsink and it may not be able to transfer the heat efficiently for the 980M. There is also a chance that the 980M is defective. There have been many reports of bad 980M's coming out of China so I wouldn't be surprised.

Hi, sorry I don't check the forum here all that often. Did you still need help with a modded driver? The easiest way is for me to walk you through it as I'm usually online while I'm at work and I can't download and install files on my work computer which is what I'd need to do to mod the driver for you. I have your Hardware info so walking you through the process is pretty easy

Very strange stuff indeed. So it goes back to normal when you remove the GPU? I've heard a lot of bad stories about secondhand 980M's

You need to use a modded driver for anything higher than a 680M. But....if this is what it looks like on PEG mode then the GPU is bad. That really shouldn't look like that.

Great news! It sounds like it must be the integrated graphics that's causing the issue. A CPU replacement may be required at some stage.

Then there's a good chance that the card is on its last legs if it's in the BIOS but not Device Manager. If you have the 60hz display on SG mode (Optimus) then you should see the Intel 4000 and 680M under Display Adapters. Without a driver the 680M will be called a Basic Microsoft Display Adapter, or something like that.

If you have the unlocked BIOS then just check what video mode it is set on. Video config will be under the second Advanced Tab. If the 680M is Not Detected then it's possible that the BIOS is on iGFX mode for some reason. Either that or the card is dead. Make sure you don't make any changes in the BIOS unless you know what you're doing. A small change can make a big difference.

Ok, good luck. Fingers crossed it's the CPU

It will just be a matter of testing any way you can I guess. My garage is full of spare parts so it's easy to troubleshoot. If you physically pull the 680M and the screen is still distorted then you're left with the CPU or board. You could then try and grab a cheap i5 off ebay to see if it's the CPU. Unfortunately if it's the board then there aren't too many cheap options for replacement. Boards can still be quite expensive

It really should only be either the LCD, CPU or GPU. I'm leaning towards the GPU as CPU's very very rarely have issues. Pulling out the GPU will help you find out. There is a chance that it is the motherboard as it is the connection between the CPU and GPU to the LCD. It could also be a display cable. When you replaced the display did you use the old cables or did the replacement come with some?

He bought the parts off me and successfully did the upgrade. There is no need for chassis modifications with the standard MXM3.0b black 1070, the MSI 1070 is different though which is probably the one that you had. A 3D panel is preferred but not required as the 1070 works in SG mode with the 60Hz LVDS display. He had it working with the 60hz before switching to the 120hz. An Unlocked BIOS is not required with either display. The laptop will switch to PEG mode when the 120Hz display is installed and it's on SG mode as default for the 60hz display The heatsinks fit perfectly fine in the M17x R4 and M18x R2, no need to modify. Other than the need for a modified Nvidia driver, it's mostly Plug and Play.

I haven't heard of anyone successfully getting the 900 series to work in the R3 due to BIOS restrictions. The best Nvidia option is the 780M (yes, stay away from the 880M). You can also try an AMD option. The R9 M290x (8970M) is probably stronger than the 780M these days due to continued driver support.

Try pulling out the 680M to see if anything changes. If the dots go away then it's the 680M that is the problem. You can also try running the ePSA diagnostic (F12 during boot to get into the Boot Menu). This hardware test can pick up certain issues. If you want to force the dedicated card then you can try disabling the Intel 4000 graphics in Device Manager or you can flash the unlocked BIOS and set the video mode to PEG. This is the best way. To run the 980M you need to change the BIOS from Legacy to UEFI mode and disable Load Legacy Option ROM and Secure Boot. Then you will have to reinstall Windows because UEFI uses a different partition type on the drive and you'll get a 'no boot device found' message. The 980M will not work in Legacy mode.