Paul Kadoshnikov

does anyone have the screw/thread size for the gpu, im trying to put a liquid cooling block in but the screws are incompatible with the 680m and how it goes in and the gt70 thread.

so i got my 3d tv, and using tridef, i had to make all my games work only with intel4000 rather than 680m to get stereoscopic working, is there any way to force the 680m to render the hdmi output?

edit: only displaying an image on tv and using iz3d or tridef allows me to play games in 3d at 720p 60 hz. you have to disable the monitor. it still looks like like the 4000 renders it, but the 680 does... so i dont think 3dtv play will work with the gt 70.. but i havent gotten it to work yet even with edid modifier.

so what im saying is hook up the laptop to 3d hdtv, then right click the screen and pick screen resolution, hit the multiple display box and select only the 3dtv. then use either iz3d or tridef with the games and voila, the 680m processes the graphics. (as far as ive experimented u have to do it this way or the intel4000 renders it...)

since the hdmi port is muxed through the intel4000 there is no way to get 3dtv play to work unless nvidia and intel both fix the issue. so the only thing we can do with the gt 70 is use 3rd party software like iz3d and tridef... im actually contemplating buying tridef unless there is another app like it

***YES, you can do 720p 3D gaming on the gt70, but u gotta do ^(only have the tv as a screen and disable the monitor) use tridef/iz3d.*** you can do 1080p 24hz gaming but its too choppy in some games

But thinking, is there a liquid cooling gpu or cpu piece for the 680m or g2 socket for laptops... i mean think about it, liquid cooling is just running a liquid through tubes that get cooled at a copper cooling area, so why not get a slim liquid cooling part for gpu or cpu, then run a length of tubing if there is enough room as far as you can, while also fitting copper piping on it by the fan part where the copper pipes dissipate heat stock wise. essentially it would be a very small scale liquid cooling... worried bout water damage? use mineral oil since its not conductive... i think i can get this to work if there is a module for the gpu and cpu and have small tubing/ or side ways tube spots no 90 degree ones... if such hardware is available this project should very well be accomplish-able. if the tubing or copper pipes leak, itll be fine since mineral oil wont cause a shortage.

if using a thin tubing you could get up to six copper pipe locations to dissipate heat by the fan, and if its thin, can fit it around many places, so u get alot of liquid, so the plan would be slow temp increase, but also slow temp decrease...

now if anyone can tell me whether it would be better to attempt this or if the air cooling is way better? is there a formula to estimate heat dissipation from just copper, to a liquid and copper piping...

any input would be great, if anyone who has experience has input but is lost by what im saying please ask and i might try to make a graphic...

and this should be easily reversible as i want to use a new heatsink entirely

edit: distilled/deionized water works best as far as i read. so thats the liquid to use.

edit 2: this waterblock might just work http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermaltake-CL-W0088-Aqua-Brazing-All-Copper-series-W2-VGA-Waterblock-/281028143429?pt=US_Video_Card_GPU_Cooling&hash=item416e952945....

(added edit to first post)

still have problems with temperature on 680m ? then still don't stick correctly gpu&heatsink - must be some space between than blocking transfer heat to heatsink

just a little, on very demanding games it goes up to 90's easy, but even in lighter games after a while it gets up in higher temps. i mean if i keep turbo fans on then im golden. i may just have to resort to that. but if i had at least an extra heatsink and pipes, it might help, i mean the 3rd pipe that goes to the ram of the card (very left of it, doesnt get direct contact with the chips since there is the thermal pad, then the metal pad on which the copper rests on so if i could link a pipe to the acual 2 that are used and the 3rd one, perhaps it would help a little.

its just hard to abuse my gpu while people get 66 C on overclock in 3dmark whereas i get 78+ C on no overclock.

I was thinking about doing some more cooling mods in the gt 70 for the 680m and was wondering where i could possibly get a replacement heatsink (and extra copper heat pipes) so i could solder on some copper heatsinks and possibly extra pipes? As well as would it do anything to get a more power hungry fan (or find a higher power and quieter fan?). im also trying to devise a way to possibly get some water cooling in there on a minimal scale. but i was thinking on throwing on extra copper pipes to have more heating area that will keep it cooler.

edit: so i believe i found a suitable water block, and a water pump that will work, (12 volts about <400 mA) where could i tap 12 volts from in the gt70? i dont wanna use the fan spot because its still needed...i could possibly just use a 12 volt battery cell, i would have to replace/recharge it a bit, but it would work, and place the battery by my SSD since its smaller than a HDD in size, and the pump could be placed by the lower right side of the mobo where there appears to be sufficient room.

i think ill hold off on this project till later in the year, but i def want to try this out.

I’ve got a MSI GT70 as well and I tried to use 3DVision with the same problems. I read the GT 70 can’t handle the bandwidth over the HDMI 1.4a cable. I can’t even use 720p 3D

zonetrader do u also have a 680m?

I also played the crysis 3 open beta on high settings throughout and hit 94 C (with turbo fans), modified a few settings lower and overclocked +200/400 and still hit 94C. Msi vbios OC Svl7 revision 1. will flash to the second revision. game looks great but my card does run a bit hot. Thanks so much svl7! itll be nice to have lower temps with the right voltage for the base OC version rev 2

edit: yup, with the second revision OC version msi the 680m runs 3 C cooler than the first revision. awesome catch and fix! thanks again

uhhh. in the crysis 3 open beta even with the turbo fans on, i got 94 C... (O_O)

lowered the graphics from very high (most of the very high settings) to high, with the motion blur high, with the overclock 204/400 added and still hit 94... crysis looks good, but dang u need a strong card

So how many copper shims you put with the latest test you did? You soldered the shims on the gpu heatsink? 2cm x 2cm x 0.7mm (is this the exact die size of the gpu)? I ordered copper shimms same with the same specs u told me.. i am going to thermal adhesive the shims on the gpu heatsink to have a better heat dissipation. Or try your method first, put the shims in between the gpu die and gpu heatsink

What i did was put thermal paste inbetween the gpu and shim, and between the shim and heatsink so:

------------Heatsink-------------

---------Thermal Paste-----------

----------Copper Shim------------

---------Thermal Paste-----------

----------Graphics Card----------

^thats what i did and it made a huge difference. And yeah i used just one copper shim (2cm x 2cm x 0.7mm) that size.

I tried two shims but it was too tall and not good so stick with just one.

With 2 shims the temp was just 1 C higher, but the gpu was being pressed on pretty hard.

with the one copper shim it was a max of 13 C difference in 3dmark 11

yeah after flashing svl7's bios i got about 7800 points on stock voltage i believe.

the mem is 2 CORSAIR 8GB VENGEANCE 1600 sticks. and so far a havent hit 90 C. with like pcsx2 its only been as high as 73 C i believe with turbo fans it stays below 60 C. in tf2 it stays below 75C. what would really help is an easy EC maker... i havent reread that one thread yet and probably should, but a better fan control would also keep the temps better.

All i have to say is the copper shim in-between the gpu and heatsink really did help.

(havent been on much since i just moved into my college dorm in a neighboring city.... only ethernet cable access in dorm rooms and wifi not allowed in dorm area.... its hell!)

actually my heatsink did have all of the heat pads, i just didnt pay too much attention when i did it the first time.

Those are the copper shims, that was my attempt after i soldered them together, it didnt work too well so i went back to a single layer shim

check his tools to fan regulations - maybe its works

Laptop Forums and Notebook Computer Discussion

turbofan button works ?

turbo fan works but its too drastic.. my fan probably never goes above 40% by itself

yeah i read that forum and tried to do what it said but i got lost and confused

temp before: as high as 96 C

temp after: 83 C

its been doing way better after the shim.

I even tried 2 shims on top of each other, so 1.4 mm hasnt broken my card..

but im back to a single shim. i really need a better EC cause my fan barely spins at 83 C or higher

On Crysis2 I'm hitting max of 85 degrees celsius.. But in bf2 max temp gradually reaches at 93 degrees celsius... It would be better if you could post a pic on where u put that on your heatsink or put a link of that shin etsu so that i can get one too, btw... What monitoring software u using for 3dmark11

well the copper shims is different than the fins you got. i used a flat one between the gpu and heatsink. (6X DV2000 DV6000 DV9000 TX1000 F500 F700 Copper Shim | eBay)

i bought the shin etsu x23 from ebay, and hopefully its the legit stuff: 2G Shinetsu Thermal Heatsink Compound Paste Grey x23 7783D for Overclocking | eBay

monitoring software was Gpuz and throttle stop

ok since there is really nothing to post picture wise ill try to textually describe everything, I took the gpu out (even though it wasnt necessary) and i simply put a copper shim 2 cm X 2cm X .7 mm and put shin etsu x23 on both sides re applied the gpu and now im getting a max of 79 C on 3d mark 11. im contemplating putting a double layer of shims to see if it lowers it more. what temps are you recieving Omega939?

update: hit 89 C in metro 2033

ill post pic when i have time to open my laptop

awesome, ill also take some pics when i redo it cause i asked another member how their gpu was adhered, and apparently im missing thermal pads on the ram modules. so maybe that will do some good as well. thanks you guys

no i didnt check it yet, i will do that when the copper shims arrive. i dont want to waste more thermal paste until i have too.

thanks for clarifying though. now at least i know what to do

@Paul Kadoshnikov

remove all paste,thermalpads and stick card and heatsink - check if gpu sticks with heatsinks and also ram should sticks with heatsinks- then you can use paste on ram and ofcourse for gpu core

if you don't like paste on ram then use 0.5mm thermalpads on ram

so basically anywhere highlighted should have either padding, shim, or paste then right? (http://static07.techinferno.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/680M-308x370.jpg) because when i repasted the vertical right column of 4 did not have anything but the horizontal few at the top had some adhesive.

and thanks will buy some shims on ebay

I had this issue before with my msi gt60 and with gtx680m. The screws where soo tight also but hitting @96 degrees while playing dx11 games like BF3.. I did put several pads that must be put on the chips, re-paste several times but to no avail the temps on BF3 still reaches 96 degrees celcius. Then in one forum a member told me that the gpu is not in full contact with the heat sink. What I did is I literally remove the heat sink and the mxm gpu. (While looking at the gpu/heatsink) to my surprise, the gpu is not in contact with the heatsink. I replaced a 0.5m on the mem chips and took off several pads until the gpu touches the heatsink.. Put some copper shims on the gpu heatsink to lower the gpu temps and successfully the temps lowered. While playing dx games like BF3 I still reach temps (gradually) of up to 93 degrees but temp lowers drastically after the game level finishes. I am still waiting for my pair of shims to arrive in my place so that i put additional copper shims.

about how many shims or at what thickness are the shims? do i apply thermal paste and shims together? or do i somehow adhere the shim to the heatsink? do i just put it inbetween and just attach the heatsink? or do i apply thermal paste to gpu, place shim, apply paste to shim, then place on heatsink? just wanting to get everything straight before i do it

Make sure to apply AS5 correct, spread it very thin with a razor or creditcard and screw it back on tight, screw it off again and see how it spreads and when satisfied clean, and redo.

Well, i have. ive done that twice on the cpu and gpu so far to ensure it spread well, as well as the 3 repaste testdrives, and the cpu seems to be fine now, but not the gpu. i have made sure the spread looks good before the heatsink. im wondering if this is a gpu to heatsink issue somehow... it was also was hitting 93 or so before the repaste... so it seems like maybe its not a paste issue

Alright, so my Gpu has hit very high temps, like today i hit 96 C in Company of Heroes (cpu hit 68 C). I have repasted 3 times with shin etsu x23, and arctic silver 5. right now the arctic silver 5 is applied. I have the MSI 1762 barebone flashed with the gt 70 ONE bios, I7 3610qm, gtx 680m, the 680m is flashed with svl7's OC msi bios (i have the msi 680m). these are with stock clock and voltage. i have to note the fans were not full speed when it was at 96, it was more of the slightly annoying level.

What could possibly be the issue. could it be that the gt 70 bios isnt working properly with the barebone? is it the OC 680m bios running it to 96C? how can i ensure the gpu and heatsink are actually tight fitting? when i went to repaste my repastes, i can see that there was contact because the paste moved as it would when you tighten the heatsink.

If anyone has a link to a better EC for the barebone that would be nice as well, but 96C is really high for me.

in my MSI 1762 barebone with 3610qm and 680m here are my clocks and scores with the MSI bios from this thread (stock voltage): (on performance setting, all scores are the 3d mark 11 scores, last one tells graphic score only.)

stock vbios run= 5953

stock vbios with "turbo boost= 6043

*svl7's MSI bios tests below*

935/2000=7025 @86 C

945/2120=7226 @93

975/2400=7465 (turbo fans on temp was below 85)

995/2440=7612 (turbo fans on temp was below 90)

995/2520=7631 (turbo fans on temp was below 90)

1005/2520=7653 (turbo fans on temp was below 90)

1025/2580=7795 @89 C with turbo fans on. (graphics score alone 8091)

tried a bit higher and the driver crashed so thats enough testing for me today.

overclock done on 310.70... looked up the update an many said the overclock wasnt as stable on 310.90... so ill stick with 310.70 for a bit

You have to flash one of @svl7 custom vbios to unlock the potential to hit 8k in 3dmark 11.

alright, just verifying. i didnt realize that you could gain 2000 points overclocking the card.

I have a barebone msi 1762 with the i7-3610qm and 680m graphics card, the card has the original bios and has been updated to the latest drivers... i flashed the barebone to the latest msi gt70 one bios. and im getting a score of P5953 (performance preset). i followed the bios modding thread and ppl reported up to 8000 points on the performance preset. should i do something or let it be? When i ran the test it was without the boost and throttle stop was not running.