Paul Kadoshnikov

does anyone have the screw/thread size for the gpu, im trying to put a liquid cooling block in but the screws are incompatible with the 680m and how it goes in and the gt70 thread.

so i got my 3d tv, and using tridef, i had to make all my games work only with intel4000 rather than 680m to get stereoscopic working, is there any way to force the 680m to render the hdmi output? edit: only displaying an image on tv and using iz3d or tridef allows me to play games in 3d at 720p 60 hz. you have to disable the monitor. it still looks like like the 4000 renders it, but the 680 does... so i dont think 3dtv play will work with the gt 70.. but i havent gotten it to work yet even with edid modifier. so what im saying is hook up the laptop to 3d hdtv, then right click the screen and pick screen resolution, hit the multiple display box and select only the 3dtv. then use either iz3d or tridef with the games and voila, the 680m processes the graphics. (as far as ive experimented u have to do it this way or the intel4000 renders it...) since the hdmi port is muxed through the intel4000 there is no way to get 3dtv play to work unless nvidia and intel both fix the issue. so the only thing we can do with the gt 70 is use 3rd party software like iz3d and tridef... im actually contemplating buying tridef unless there is another app like it ***YES, you can do 720p 3D gaming on the gt70, but u gotta do ^(only have the tv as a screen and disable the monitor) use tridef/iz3d.*** you can do 1080p 24hz gaming but its too choppy in some games

But thinking, is there a liquid cooling gpu or cpu piece for the 680m or g2 socket for laptops... i mean think about it, liquid cooling is just running a liquid through tubes that get cooled at a copper cooling area, so why not get a slim liquid cooling part for gpu or cpu, then run a length of tubing if there is enough room as far as you can, while also fitting copper piping on it by the fan part where the copper pipes dissipate heat stock wise. essentially it would be a very small scale liquid cooling... worried bout water damage? use mineral oil since its not conductive... i think i can get this to work if there is a module for the gpu and cpu and have small tubing/ or side ways tube spots no 90 degree ones... if such hardware is available this project should very well be accomplish-able. if the tubing or copper pipes leak, itll be fine since mineral oil wont cause a shortage. if using a thin tubing you could get up to six copper pipe locations to dissipate heat by the fan, and if its thin, can fit it around many places, so u get alot of liquid, so the plan would be slow temp increase, but also slow temp decrease... now if anyone can tell me whether it would be better to attempt this or if the air cooling is way better? is there a formula to estimate heat dissipation from just copper, to a liquid and copper piping... any input would be great, if anyone who has experience has input but is lost by what im saying please ask and i might try to make a graphic... and this should be easily reversible as i want to use a new heatsink entirely edit: distilled/deionized water works best as far as i read. so thats the liquid to use. edit 2: this waterblock might just work http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermaltake-CL-W0088-Aqua-Brazing-All-Copper-series-W2-VGA-Waterblock-/281028143429?pt=US_Video_Card_GPU_Cooling&hash=item416e952945.... (added edit to first post)

just a little, on very demanding games it goes up to 90's easy, but even in lighter games after a while it gets up in higher temps. i mean if i keep turbo fans on then im golden. i may just have to resort to that. but if i had at least an extra heatsink and pipes, it might help, i mean the 3rd pipe that goes to the ram of the card (very left of it, doesnt get direct contact with the chips since there is the thermal pad, then the metal pad on which the copper rests on so if i could link a pipe to the acual 2 that are used and the 3rd one, perhaps it would help a little. its just hard to abuse my gpu while people get 66 C on overclock in 3dmark whereas i get 78+ C on no overclock.

I was thinking about doing some more cooling mods in the gt 70 for the 680m and was wondering where i could possibly get a replacement heatsink (and extra copper heat pipes) so i could solder on some copper heatsinks and possibly extra pipes? As well as would it do anything to get a more power hungry fan (or find a higher power and quieter fan?). im also trying to devise a way to possibly get some water cooling in there on a minimal scale. but i was thinking on throwing on extra copper pipes to have more heating area that will keep it cooler. edit: so i believe i found a suitable water block, and a water pump that will work, (12 volts about <400 mA) where could i tap 12 volts from in the gt70? i dont wanna use the fan spot because its still needed...i could possibly just use a 12 volt battery cell, i would have to replace/recharge it a bit, but it would work, and place the battery by my SSD since its smaller than a HDD in size, and the pump could be placed by the lower right side of the mobo where there appears to be sufficient room. i think ill hold off on this project till later in the year, but i def want to try this out.

are u serious? i just ordered a 3d tv (passive).. when it arrives i will try some testing... but if it wont work idk what ill do... (i also got 680m, in gt 70 barebone)zonetrader do u also have a 680m?

I also played the crysis 3 open beta on high settings throughout and hit 94 C (with turbo fans), modified a few settings lower and overclocked +200/400 and still hit 94C. Msi vbios OC Svl7 revision 1. will flash to the second revision. game looks great but my card does run a bit hot. Thanks so much svl7! itll be nice to have lower temps with the right voltage for the base OC version rev 2 edit: yup, with the second revision OC version msi the 680m runs 3 C cooler than the first revision. awesome catch and fix! thanks again

uhhh. in the crysis 3 open beta even with the turbo fans on, i got 94 C... (O_O) lowered the graphics from very high (most of the very high settings) to high, with the motion blur high, with the overclock 204/400 added and still hit 94... crysis looks good, but dang u need a strong card

What i did was put thermal paste inbetween the gpu and shim, and between the shim and heatsink so: ------------Heatsink------------- ---------Thermal Paste----------- ----------Copper Shim------------ ---------Thermal Paste----------- ----------Graphics Card---------- ^thats what i did and it made a huge difference. And yeah i used just one copper shim (2cm x 2cm x 0.7mm) that size. I tried two shims but it was too tall and not good so stick with just one. With 2 shims the temp was just 1 C higher, but the gpu was being pressed on pretty hard. with the one copper shim it was a max of 13 C difference in 3dmark 11

yeah after flashing svl7's bios i got about 7800 points on stock voltage i believe.

the mem is 2 CORSAIR 8GB VENGEANCE 1600 sticks. and so far a havent hit 90 C. with like pcsx2 its only been as high as 73 C i believe with turbo fans it stays below 60 C. in tf2 it stays below 75C. what would really help is an easy EC maker... i havent reread that one thread yet and probably should, but a better fan control would also keep the temps better. All i have to say is the copper shim in-between the gpu and heatsink really did help. (havent been on much since i just moved into my college dorm in a neighboring city.... only ethernet cable access in dorm rooms and wifi not allowed in dorm area.... its hell!)

actually my heatsink did have all of the heat pads, i just didnt pay too much attention when i did it the first time. Those are the copper shims, that was my attempt after i soldered them together, it didnt work too well so i went back to a single layer shim

turbo fan works but its too drastic.. my fan probably never goes above 40% by itself yeah i read that forum and tried to do what it said but i got lost and confused

temp before: as high as 96 C temp after: 83 C its been doing way better after the shim. I even tried 2 shims on top of each other, so 1.4 mm hasnt broken my card.. but im back to a single shim. i really need a better EC cause my fan barely spins at 83 C or higher

well the copper shims is different than the fins you got. i used a flat one between the gpu and heatsink. (6X DV2000 DV6000 DV9000 TX1000 F500 F700 Copper Shim | eBay) i bought the shin etsu x23 from ebay, and hopefully its the legit stuff: 2G Shinetsu Thermal Heatsink Compound Paste Grey x23 7783D for Overclocking | eBay monitoring software was Gpuz and throttle stop