daicharade1

@Klem Ok. Is their any possibility for tweaking the bios to disable the SLI completely and enable IGP while the ultrabay is still inserted for better battery timings?

@Klem What does your bios-mod offer comparatively to svl7's mod? Is their any possibility for tweaking the bios to disable the SLI completely and enable IGP while the ultrabay is still inserted for better battery timings?

On 31/08/2016 at 6:19 PM, ghoul said:

 

Means default voltage for chip set by nvidia. Because there you can test cards one by one, and one doesn't affect others stability.

Ok so I could run Valley at your clocks and voltages but not games. Especially Rise of the Tomb Raider. What voltages you run yer setup at while gaming and what games?

On Sunday, August 28, 2016 at 11:44 PM, ghoul said:

Becasue those are the fused ones, before modded bios. Of course, after modded bios, everyone will have 1.1V, unless you extract bios files ( 1 for sli, 1 for optimus) and mod voltages further.

Regarding stability at certain voltage, every gpu is unique, respond different at different voltage levels, guess i was lucky with mine.

Test them out one by one, don't use sli for undervolt testing.

Sorry for my noobness.. What do you mean fused? Why testing without SLI? 

18 minutes ago, ghoul said:

 

Scroll up a bit, you can find almost all the answers there. For the lazy ones:

Yes, both fan was upgraded. No,because GPU load matters more,than saturating  memory bus and GPU is waiting for that. Ambient was around 24C. Temps under game depends on the game, this is why i choosed this test, because it can be easily reproduced, hence comparable.  Asics: 84.6 Internal, 76,6 ultrabay. Driver was upgraded since then to latest, so i dont know, but don't think it matters at all, unless you use ancient drivers.

Temps nowadays skyrocketing, so does cpu speed, switched to 4930MX, GTA5 can be played @4GHz, with thermals 90C +/-2C top ( depends on core), gpus are chilling, since fan speed is higher because of cpu temp Synthetic test is forgettable, if I want keep machine alive, but gaming is fine, so it is ok.

How come your default voltage is 1.05 and 1.08? I used svl7's bios and vbios unlock and my voltages are 1.1V (750m SLI, 1058,1250). My Asic quality is 75.4 and 89.1 yet it crashes out on yer clocks and voltages

On 8/5/2016 at 11:57 PM, ghoul said:

Really? Undervolt is ok, but underclock... Come on.

 

DO heatsink, mounting mechanism mod, do fan change, do metal thermal paste mount.

If you are willing to keep warranty,and performance as well, sell it and buy one with proper cooling.

 

Recently installed an AW m14 R2 fan ( only the 6.4CFM version, lame ebay seller sent wrong one) but still  stronger than original.

Had to cut out CPU fan motor and mounting legs of motor from heatsink ( round hole left after)

Cut the AW fan out from its chassis, keeping a bit longer legs cut out from plastic.

Now easily insert fan from keyboard side into heatsink shroud, place it in position and glue tha fan to shroud.

Now, switch middle to pins in the fan connector and thats it.

This is with valley running paused at scene where gpus loaded properly, cpu is locked to 3.4G so lenovo throttling is skipped.

This is with stock fan control, no outer cooling aid, just built in fans with slightly elevated chassis.

Now lets see what happens if i run TSBench beside Valley, to load cpu as well to its max.

 

Now, that is what I call a near final solution.

 

 

Did you replace both fans? Your temperatures are good but your GPU memory isn't loaded to its full? What is your ambient temperature, and temperatures while gaming? And what is your ASIC quality for both the cards? What drivers you using?

Hey guys ,

if I try to lower the voltages of both GPUs with nvidia inspector (and yes i modded both Vbios and main bios) the slider of "voltage offset" always goes back to 0 if I press apply reducing the core clock by 100mhz works fine. How did you do that? also i don't know which power state i have to choose... would be very happy if you could post an exact explanation on how to do it big thanks in advance

Bobbey

Enable SLi, goto NVI and dont set your desired voltage until the clock of both GPUs settle to idle state (135core,Memory 405) in the current tab. After that set voltage for GPU 1 then 2 and save voltage shortcuts for each gpu separately, so next time u want to undervolt just double click these shortcuts individually. Let me know how much does yer system undervolt for games. Regards!

@allstone I tried looking through the Embedded Controller with RW. I don't understand much of it so I didn't change values but I did notice one value changing when I switched on IdeaFan. Some pictures below:

Used CLU and people it does work! MX4 and AS5 are things of the past(e) loll

Funny Zalman's paste gets no mention anywhere...

Nice thread..has anyone here used Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra in their notebooks for both CPU & GPU applications? I have a lenovo Y510P with SLi and I'd like to know how CLU does with regards to temps and longevity? I hear its good only for an year or so and in systems with adequate mounting pressure from the HS. Also people claim it solidifies under constant high temperature and dries up when the system moves.

Hello everyone! This is Ali from Pakistan. My laptop overheats when gaming and I know the factory paste job on the CPU and GPU is horrible. I was looking for a good paste but seems there are conflicting opinions and results among the top brands being used. I read about Coolaboratory's Ultra liquid metal and its hazards , some suggest ICD 7 but then its abrasive, others are hard to remove etc. So its all a little confusing picking the best one. I had some AC MX-3 left over which I used for repasting the Ulrabay but it doesn't work as well as I thought. Due to nonavailability I have to decide between AS5, Ceramique 2, Alumina, MX-4 and CLU. I wanted to buy a paste that could be used on both the CPU and GPU and has a longer lifespan since I'm not comfortable changing the TIM every 5-6 months. I was leaning towards CLU because of its tremendous heat transfer, but some say it dries within 12-18 months and welds the heatsink to the die, plus its expensive. So kindly suggest among the pastes mentioned and your experiences with it.

Lenovo Y510p

i7 4700MQ

755m SLI

I solved it without chAnging the board and I have no problem actually helping someone else.. USB wasn't even booting and after doing some research it came to me. The laptop has a DUAL BIOS, and the purpose of the secondary BIOS is for situations just like this.. I swapped the primary with the secondary bios, then I proceeded to do the emergency recovery with fn+r then plugging in the laptop and pressing power... I'm happy to say that I now have a working laptop. Now then, to my question: can someone tell me how to flash modified clock settings to the internal 750m? I've noticed that the 305 modded bios has got a higher than default clock setting flashed to it.

Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk

Hey good to know you solved your issue. Please post a step-by-step here, some people could use yer expertise and knowledge.

- - - Updated - - -

I solved it without chAnging the board and I have no problem actually helping someone else.. USB wasn't even booting and after doing some research it came to me. The laptop has a DUAL BIOS, and the purpose of the secondary BIOS is for situations just like this.. I swapped the primary with the secondary bios, then I proceeded to do the emergency recovery with fn+r then plugging in the laptop and pressing power... I'm happy to say that I now have a working laptop. Now then, to my question: can someone tell me how to flash modified clock settings to the internal 750m? I've noticed that the 305 modded bios has got a higher than default clock setting flashed to it.

Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk

Hey good to know you solved your issue. Please post a step-by-step here, some people could use yer expertise and knowledge.

That is only possible with an nvidia card, I have an amd so I use a tv I never used in my room. I think with nvidia cards its automatic though i couldn't say for sure.

You're very welcome and I will provide pictures, possibly a guide? Still thinkin on that. Yes, any laptop that uses a mPCIe slot or an expresscard. Theres three different connectors, mPCIe, expresscard and a x4 PCIe which Im not sure why someone would use that. I do have the sli setup with 755m's though Ive been kinda forgetful and haven't tested if I works while its enabled or even connected to the laptop, sorryy.

A guide would be great. Good luck with your endeavors!

As loki said, a usb wifi adapter, or if you have another laptop that no one uses you could bridge the wireless and the ethernet on that laptop and connect it to the egpu laptop. Thats my setup, not the prettiest or neatest but I plan on organizing it more than what it currently is. As for the price, The egpu adapter, PCIe to mPCIe costs about $50 to $60 USD. That depends if you get the banggood version, or the bplus one. I have the bplus version. The only bad thing I can say about it is that they made the glossy side on the bottom instead of the top.The PSU I bought was a refurbished EVGA 500w for $30 USD. Now, the GPU I bought was a used 280x by Diamond for $160. I would recommend either getting the 280x now or wait for the 380x, The 280x is cheaper and faster than the 380, the only reason you should get the 380 is if you REALLY need that 1 extra gigabyte of vram. You technically do not need a case since the bplus adapter comes with a stand and mounts for the gpu, you would be better off making your own case unless you want to pay $30 more for the higher tier adapter and another $60 for its case. Total: $270+ Im sorry for making you read so much haha

I disabled the dgpu in device manager but then noticed it was still being used sometimes so I uninstalled the driver for it. I did have to go into the bios and change the igpu from "auto" to "enabled". I noticed overclocking the 750 or 755 only added around 4-6 fps, that didn't stop me from doing it but still. I got a bad overclocking 280x, if I do anything above 1075 Mhz it crashes and resets. It may be the windows 10 messing with the driver or the egpu setup but I was hoping for more :/

Thank you for the details and I don't mind the long read, infact you should add some pictures to tell us more. Secondly, If I understood this correctly, the eGPU only requires the PCIe slot? Is it possible then to connect any normal laptop with an eGPU? Lastly, did you have the SLi setup?

If you are meaning what is an "egpu" it just means external gpu. Laptops have an internal gpu or igpu. They also have a mini PCIe or mPCIe slot, used for wifi. Its just the laptops version of a x1 PCIe slot, so using, and an adapter, this we can connect a desktop gpu externally, an egpu.

Thank You so much for that information. If the eGPU uses the PCIe slot then where do we reroute the WIFI to if one doesn't have the NGFF connector? Secondly, what would be needed apart from a casing a GPU and PSU and what would be the general cost of adding an eGPU to the laptop if I were to add R9 380.

Ok could someone please tell me what all of this is? I tried google but in vain...

Why is my 3D Mark11 Performance score so low? Its 5400..can someone share there scores too.

I did have a few hiccups during the process such as:

1. No display output during boot. I had originally tried fixing this by creating a connection between the JCMOS2 contacts underneath the RAM on the mobo (couldn't remember blind key strokes to reset BIOS). Unfortunately that sent the system into a constant 5-10 restart. The laptop would fire up, fans would spin, then lose all power right away. Simple fix, I hadn't put the RAM back in. After inserting the RAM, the system booted but still did not display video (maybe JCMOS2 does not reset modified BIOS? I did not investigate this further.)

I was then easily able to fix the display by following the keystrokes here in the first step. Edmar Hobby - Electronic: Lenovo Ideapad Y580 Insyde Bios Reset/Recovery

2. "Unauthorized slave VGA device" error during boot. This one had me worried, as searching google only came back with results such as Overheated GPU and broken GPU in general. After I realized I had removed/reinserted the Ultrabay GPU multiple times during my troubles with setting proper video settings in Linux (dual booting with Windows 8.1), I noticed the Ultrabay hadn't been inserted all the way judging by the unlocking mechanism on the bottom of the Y510P (it was not all the way down). After correctly inserting the Ultrabay did this problem disappear.

I only came here looking for a way to manually turn on my Integrated graphics with both GT 750M's in so I can have access to both Nvidia GPU's while using Pyrit in Kali Linux. Unfortunately Debian 8 does not currently support legit Intel drivers for the 4600HD, so I can not use both Nvidias yet in Linux. I do now have all 3 GPU's active and configured in Windows 8.1 though thanks to your modified BIOS.

I really appreciate your work with the BIOS and may stick around judging by the active Y510P community here. Thank you much!

Oh yeah, and I sent you some beer funds!

How did you brick it? I'm still waiting on you bro, to activate my iGpu while the SLI is active.

were the spacers you used wide enough so that the fat part of the screw could pass into it, allowing the springs to really do their job? I only did this on the ultrabay. it helped, but still wasnt the answer, i think ultimately it just delayed the death march to 97. ultimately, in trying everything i could find/think of, the most effective cooling methods are running the fans at 100% and/or undervolting the GPUs. repasting/spacing did not seem to help much.

ultimately I ended up wtih a solution where i undervolt the gpus, and installed a switch on the side of the laptop that I soldered into to the fans so that I can turn them to 100% when playing really intense games and turn off when i want it to run at its normal non obnoxious nouse level. i'm planning to do a writeup w/pics later today maybe

I believe ya because when I was screwing it in it felt a lil tighter than usual. Yeah the only real way is undervolting tbh. I'd love to hear more about yer tweaks etc..

So to anyone that is thinking about doing the spacer mod, 2 words of advice:

first, it DOES work. those springs are crummy. I was able to lower temps by around 5-7 degrees at load.

Second, be careful. i got it extra tight, and eventually the tension ripped the part you screw into from the PCB. I had to go all macguyver to fix it, and probably can no longer achieve the same cooling level as when i first did the spacer mod

Did you lower temps at the integrated GPU/CPU side or at the Ultrabay too? Because I did the mod with the Ultraybay and I don't see any difference in temperatures.

Ok I did it. Here are the values: 78.7%; 78.6%. I think I won't buy a cooling pad... because I think it isn't worth it. Is there any other program that I can use to control the voltages? Nvidia inspector works but it just goes in 12.5mv steps. MSI Afterburner prevents me to change the voltage and I'd like to change the voltage by 1mv steps if it's possible. Thanks

Your values are good but I have seen better. Higher values mean the chip works at lower voltages. Anyways, I suggest you get a cooling pad with summer almost here. There is no program which would let u increase or decrease voltage in small increments. There are games which will let you undervolt till -162mv and be stable. Games from Crytek for instance. Try Crysis 3 and Ryse. So just dont fret over some games that dont like a heavy undervolt. I suggest you use a cooling pad for these.

In my opinion at a value of -87.5mv it runs stable but I think it overheats. If I lower the undervolt it will surely overheat. I think it's difficult to find a value with that I get no performance loss and no overheating too. I don't know what to do now the average temperatures and the FPS are depending on the graphics settings and the undervolt I apply.

Download GPU-Z and rightclick on its menu to open ASIC Quality. Report that of both gpus. Secondly, I suggest you buy a good cooling pad. I'm too looking for one, but confused whether to buy one with a big 200mm fan or with 60mm fans directed at the intake vents? What do you suggest?

Hi Bobbey.

Sorry, i am bad at speak english.

My question is how did Undervolt in the Ultrabay video card?

I do not want to reduce the NvidiaInspector.

My spec: y510p (default bios 3.5, 755m sli)

Goto google.translate.com in your native language. Type your query in your native language and translate it into English. Copy n paste that here.

Sorry for the bad attachments, I fixed them. What I wanna say is that I get these crashes as well when I reboot my pc and run the "undervolt&underclock"-file, which ever prevented my games from crashing. That means the games crash even if I didn't undervolt manually or doesn't a reboot reset the settings?. I will try the -87mv voltage soon and I updated NVI. Does that what you said mean that I shouldn't switch between task using alt+tab? Where can I see the average temperatures and fps? My ambient temperature i constant at 20°C. And thanks for your help

I'm sorry I dont understand German so the picture cant help. If you still get crashes, I suggest you use DDU nvidia uninstaller and then install latest driver afresh. After that try the games that crash without using ANY utility or program. Keep an eye on your temperatures though. If it still crashes undervolt both the GPUs in increments and lower the undervolt everytime it crashes till you find a stable undervolt. If you let Hwinfo run in the background along with MSI Afterburner, it will average all temperatures and FPS in the rightmost column.