mw86

So if The Wiz completes version 2 of bios mod and unlocks use of other videocards there can be 6970m crossfire in the R2, and if he works on the R3 bios can someone make R3 crossfire compatible or is there no second slot for the video card in the R3? 2Gb 6970M crossfire would be amazing, the crossfire cable slot does exist on the 6970M.

They seem to be working great with a very small overclock I get 5,200 3dmark11 I know I can squeeze a lot more than that out, keep ya posted.

I've had similar thoughts since I recieved my M17 R2 and was hoping one day I could by 2 identical monitors at 17.3 or as close to the size of the M17's screen size and the exact same kind of screen rgb led at 1920x1200. For a 3 way setup. If anyone knows a way to purcahse two monitors of identical properties of the R2's RGB LED please post it here.

That Cooler Master looks nice, great pics

Maybe one of our members has built one themselves hope they post it here

Frustrated with my temps and knowing Dell didn't do a thorough job I decided to do a cleaning myself. It went great thanks to your guide. I didn't have paste to re-paste with so I did everything except repasting the GPU's and CPU or replaced pads. There was plenty of dust to get rid of since my system will be pushing a year old as of July this year. I decided to do a retention mod myself. But will do a better one when i re-paste everything with shin-etsu. I placed cardboard insulating washers made for seating a mother-board to a tower's chassis without grounding out. I cut them straight in from outer edge to the inner circle of the washer so when i was done i had 6 C shaped washers. I did this so I can slide the washers in between tension screws and the retention bracket to create more tension but i didn't remove the existing retention clips. I tightened the screws down first to be sure they were tight. I noticed by the description that tension of these screws as labeled is less as the number goes up. The gpu retention screws labeled 1 are the tightest and need no added tension. Screw 2, 3 and 4 each have subsequently less tension. I placed my fingernail under edge of screw 2 and wedged carefully the washer in place. When I did this i was very careful because you can hear the stress from this tightening as you do this and if your not careful you'll hear as StamatisX calls it... the crack! I proceeded to finish by placing a washer on screw 3 and then screw 4 after screw number 2. So with this guide it wasn't all to hard but before I started it seemed very delicate. I also added tape in the areas described as letting hot air back into system on the heat sinks. So for those looking to do some cleaning you can do retention mod, clean and tape mod even if you don't plan on repasting yet. One thing I noticed that didn't get mentioned in the guide is if you are removing both GPU's in a crossfire setup that you remove the crossfire cable from the first one and leave attached to the second card and you can now unscrew and remove both cards without removing the heat sink from second Gpu to get to the crossfire cable on that card, instead just leave it attached. Thanks for the great guide!

Frustrated with my temps and knowing Dell didn't do a thorough job I decided to do a cleaning myself. It went great thanks to your guide. I didn't have paste to re-paste with so I did everything except repasting the GPU's, CPU and replacing the thermal pads. There was plenty of dust to get rid of since my system will be pushing a year old as of July this year. I decided to do the retention mod too. I will redo this when I re-paste everything with shin-etsu and add new thermal pads, I simply can't afford to get these for awhile. I placed cardboard insulating washers made for seating a mother-board to a tower's chassis without grounding out. I cut them straight in from outer edge straight in to the inner circle of the washer so when I was done I had 6 C shaped washers. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-200.htm I did this so I can slide the washers in between the gpu's tension screws top and the retention bracket arm to create more tension on the gpu chip without the need to remove anything at all from the gpu cards since I wasn't repasting and had no need to disrupt the seating of the heatsink and thermal paste. I didn't remove the retention clips or loosen any screws. I tightened the screws down to a tightness that felt safe first to be sure they were tight. The screws labeled on the retention braket arms that were marked 1 were extremely tight and could not be improved. The screws labeled 2,3 and 4 were loose enough to screw them in a small fraction on each and this was on both cards. I noticed by the description in Michael's guide and Ashtefere's explained the need when reassembling the gpu heatsink after a repasting and thermal pad replacement, to retighten these screws in the order of screw one first then two, three and finally 4. What I noticed is that the tension of these screws as labeled is less as the labeled number goes up. So the screw and retention arm one has the most tension on the gpu chip and the second is not as tight as the first with the subsequent screw three having even less tension on the gpu chip and screw four has the least tension on the gpu chip from factory shipped condition. The gpu retention arm and screws labeled 1 are the tightest and need no added tension. Screw 2, 3 and 4 each have subsequently less tension. I placed my fingernail under the edge of screw 2 and wedged carefully the washer in place between top of the retention arms screw and the arm pressing down on the gpu chip. When I did this I was very careful because you can hear the stress from this tightening as you do this, which I determined when I pushed my fingernail between there so I know that they definately need to be tighter but also if your not careful you'll hear as StamatisX calls it... the crack! To remind everyone the screw labeled 1 was too tight for any improvement because I couldn't tighten screw any more sfely nor get my finger nail under the head of the screw which showed me compared to the others this one had no slack and seems sufficiently pressing tightly to the gpu chip. I proceeded by pushing my nail under outer edge of the screw head and the retention arm. You can find a small enough tool or flat head screw driver to hold the arm in place, push the washer into the space created by finger nail or thin prying tool like a wedge. The washers will hold enough tension on the 3 of the 4 heat sink retention bracket arms and the C shape we cut makes it easier to slip on without loosening or removing these screws like the clips that are used in the system. Proceed after adding the washer to screw labeled 2, to do this to 3 next and then 4 last. Just to be sure all this stays true for you before adding tension to the same ones I did first by trying to lightly pry under the screws head and the retention arm to see if it gives and allows you to put space in between them while not forcing anything so you don't crack the gpu chip. So with both this guide and Ashtefere's mod guide, it wasn't all too hard but before I started it seemed very delicate. I also added tape to the areas that seemed to me and were described and pictured in detail to be letting hot air back into the system on the heat sinks. So for those looking to do some cleaning you can do the retention mod, clean the system and seal the heatsinks leaking heat ducts with the tape mod even if you don't plan on repasting yet. Plus if you are removing both GPU's in a crossfire setup, the second card you need to remove has the crossfire cable that you detach from the first card, leave the cable attached to the second card, unscrew and remove both cards without removing the crossfire cable because you don't need to in this case and it's not accessible for removal without completely removing the heat sink from second Gpu card anyway. I can't say that without paste you wl see a huge improvement in temperatures but I can say it must be an improvement over standard configuration. Thanks for the great guide Michael and Ashtefere!

I felt the same way until I recently did a run of Intel Burn Test without the cooler and barely maintained 65TDP without throttling. Heat kept just building around rear and lack of good air flow trapped the heat under and around the rear of the laptop. The laptop placed as designed directly on a table can build quite a bit of heat near heat sinks and fans normally.

I'm surprised really. My cooler allows me to see turbo boost speeds more often. The Aluminum chassis of the R2 is always cool to the touch on the cooler and slightly over room temperature without it. I like the raised position too. This cooler has raisers in the back end which i fold out and use and as you may be able to see in the second pic I use two foam rubber pieces to raise the back even higher. The same foam pieces I use for that power supply cooler. Most of these are designed with ergonomics as number one priority and cooling as secondary. They wouldn't market them with fans if some laptops didn't overheat. I see atleast 10-15 degree celcius difference on Dell Inspiron with Core 2 Duo and HP HDX18 w/Core 2 Quad Q9000 when using my first cooler the Zalman NC-2000... two small fans but solid aluminum construction and centrifugal design. My mother owns the Inspiron and I sold my mother the HDX when I bought The M17X. I had encouraged her to buy the NC2000, she mainly just surfs the net and plays online games such as facebook games. Though these aren't programs of any intensity at all, those temps are attained with use of the cooler kept her entire computer 15 degree celcius cooler or so. Hard drives, Ram, CPU and especially batteries life expectancy is hindered by the same factor heat. So even though you notice only 2-3c difference and only at idle... that doesn't take into consideration the drop in temperatures on the components of the system and chassis of the laptop. Michael and Stam you both picked higher budgeted coolers and the track record probably shows that the Cryo LX can really make a large difference in temps. Being that out Alienware computers produce more heat when over-clocking then my toaster oven, one would only feel the difference on older inferior hardware where the benefit could be more pronounced.

Nice portable lap friendly laptop cooler Brian. Brian these laptops have great standard cooling. Recently I found out though it was barely adequate at close to default tdp when not utilizing any cooler. Such as I've found 65 TDP 62 TDC to be my max to not throttle when under a stress test in a room with Summer-like ambient temperatures utilizing no extra cooler or variation of the way the laptop is meant to sit. But my thermal room was definitely increased when decent cooling was supplementing the units stock cooling. This is on stock paste with a recent cleaning tear-down and minor ducting mods. Sure repasting with better materials would improve this but that would be saying the out of factory of these laptops is inadequate.

FurMark - OpenGL benchmark and VGA Stress Test - Scores | oZone3D.Net

My last Computer was an HP HDX18t w/ Intel Q9000 and GT130M, and a single heat sink and fan for both. I still managed to lightly overclock it and get it up to speeds worth playing a couple games at. I think I got 30fps @ 1080P on Dirt2 lol. You sold your R2 so you have something lined up. Check these out not bad for a custom built.

I looked at that one before another great cooler for sure Michael. You use that on your HP right? The one you mentioned in Benchmark thread? I think You should post your Benches in there anyway.

I use a Zalman. I first used the NC-2000 which fits the same size laptop but found my only problem with it was it only had two small fans. It worked great for any laptop especially with the large frame of aluminum. When I got my Alienware M17X I bought this NC-3000U. The Zalman NC3000 notebook cooler comes with an ultra quiet 220mm fan, which gives great cooling, without creating a large amount of noise. The base of the Zalman NC3000 can easily hold a 17 inch laptop measuring 365cm(L) x 400cm(W).

Hey I just received this pictured issue of Tiger-direct magazine when I noticed a tablet for $300 on the cover that no one should pass up! LOL.

Intel Burn Test and Prime95 smallfft plus the benchmark tool thats built in to prime95 is great if your overclocking with different turbo frequencies with more or less cores active because it stress 1 core then keeps adding cores till the test is done great for showing a cpus ranges when not fully loaded over all 4 cores.are great for checking stability they push your speeds down a lot even at high tdp. At 5% Bios I've seen much less stability when multipliers are raised too much or tdp is raised up too much I've even got bsod's i believe mean the Intel memory controller speeds are too high. The base-clock effects the whole system. I've been trying to hone in on some numbers and found mine not to far off from stams. My heat is much higher i have yet to do a repasting but the numbers are valid. I found more stability from StamatisX's example of 3%overclock. Before I couldn't push the system as hard in 5% or 4%. So for my system as long as my total overclock is at < 3.57 and at 5% or 4% it is stable with tdp's high enough to maintain those speeds. But to reach 3.57 on stock volts on all 4 cores and the lower 3% was needed for me to get stability. Adding voltage for a small range gave stability at higher clocks on all 4 cores but temps are exponentially to high under full loads dropping my speeds down way farther than on stock volt. So unless benching no need to add voltage. You could get >3.6<3.7 4 core full load with 75mv. I think CPUZ is the only thing that benefits from the 150mv only due to it not putting stress on the cpu you guys can get 4.3+ghz validations. I've got BSODs with high overclocks that completely erase stuff that was in the memory at the time of the crash, preventing windows from starting or even causeing random BSOD's after. DR650SE could there be any system errors that arent showing up but could be causing your BSOD's early. I don't think your CPU is broken. I've had mine scorching hot on the keyboard and done 98tdp prime95 benches for almost 24hours. Though these tdp and tdc are linked to the wattage your cpu is getting i have noticed you can get amazing stability at lower clocks with extremely beefed up tdp. Like keeping 26, 25 or 24 turbo multipliers and cranking the tdp up. If the speeds seem low kick up the bios overclock but if you keep the max turbo frequency low enough you can use tdp and tdc to lock it in place no matter what load you have on it like having an unyielding 3.4ghz that wont budge on prime95 or intel burn test. DR650SE could you try doing the tests you just did with the same settings that StamatisX uses?

The information you requested has been added to the post. Glad you like it.

Constructing a Power Supply Cooler *Time to complete project under an hour. To complete this project you will need -Some kind of powertool to help cut metal and drill holes -Bolts to mount hardware -Small screw driver philips or flathead depending on the bolts and screws you have -Pliers to fasten hardware with bolts -A case fan or cpu fan -An adapter that changes the fan wire to that of the kind of powersupply wire you are using -A basic powersupply from an old computer -Rubber or foam pads for feet and spacers -A steady hand when cutting metal -Most of these fans operate at 12volts DC. For a fan power cable that uses 3pin fan mainboard cable such as certain fans from cpu coolers that connect to the motherboard, use 3pin fan to 4pin molex converter cable (the fan in the cooler used in the guide used a 3pin fan to 4pin molex connectionfan connection I used the 3pin to 4pin 12volt powersupply connector). *Possible parts to purchase -3pin fan to 4pin molex connector $1.99 http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4602357&CatId=82 -Hard Drive Cooler $6.99 *uses 4pin molex 12volt power supply connector http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=39596&CatId=495 -Case Fan $2.99 *uses 4pin molez 12volt power supply connector http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6666430&CatId=494 -Case Fan 2 $3.99 *uses 4pin molex 12volt powersupply connector http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6721529&CatId=494 -Power Supply Power Cord $4.69 http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000Q7Q420/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&qid=1300268611&sr=1-1&condition=all -Powersupply $9.99 *has 4 4pin molex 12volt power cables http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6610958&CatId=4324 -External 3 1/2inch hard drive enclosure $14.99 *12Volt PSU included would use 4pin molex (similar to one used in guide) http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3950007&CatId=2780 http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-200.htm Pic 18 This shows the type of bolts I used. Note you can screw them together end to end. These are basic mounting bolts for a motherboard to sit on and bolt to. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-207.htm Pic 12 This shows the pliers I used, the philips screw driver and the foam pads. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-199.htm Pic 19 Shows the type of fan you can use with the proper power wire and a converter from standard power cord to that of a cpucase fan. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-192.htm Pic 23 Shows a common cpu heatsink and fan combo common to hardware that's a little older. No one wants old computers all the better to get free spare parts from. If you can salvage an old system, even if it's just to utilize the old power supply and cpu or case fans then your already recycling and saving money. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-215.htm Pic 5 Shows the inside of the external hard drive enclosure I chose to re-use for this project. The hard drive enclosure is displayed opened up andshowing how the hard drive sits inside case. Note the hard drive, it's a 3 1/2 inch drive connected with an ide drive cable. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-204.htm Pic 14 Shows the holes made through top of the enclosure. The holes I made are just a little smaller than the thickness of a bic pen. A drill will work just fine here. It's up to you how many holes and their spacing. Though having giant holes will leave only enough room for a few holes and too much air will be directed only through the holes directly over the fan we will be installing instead of spreading over the entire surface of cooler and powersupply. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-218.htm Pic 3 Shows the fan in place on the inside of the aluminum enclosure. The fan is faced so air is pulled into the aluminum enclosure. The large hole on the bottom of the enclosure matches up with the size of the inner guards of the fan so that inner circle encompassing the fan blade is the same size as the hole made in the bottom of the coolers chassis. I would trace a marker around the inside piece of the fan on to aluminum enclosure in order to accurately cut the right size hole. I used a dremel to cut the hole out. I found if you hold the dremel with two hands and find a way to secure enclosure from moving, that short but firm traces over the marked circle is usually accurate enough to cut. If you try to go fast or have the dremel on to fast it makes it harder to cut and you tend to bounce and skim the surface. Also if a dremel is not available but a drill is you can use the same theory but hold tighter on drill, go slower and I would even make sure the drill bit is in the drill as far as possible so when your pressing on drill bit side ways it don't break and you have more control over where it goes. Note the 4 bolts sticking out of the chassis. Mark the holes using the fan as a guide and drill the holes needed to mount the fan on the inside over the large hole on bottom of enclosure. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-212.htm Pic 7 This is a picture of the need to hold the inside nut in place with small pliers while tightening the outside bolt to mount fan. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-211.htm Pic 8 This is what it should look like inside when you've mounted fan over fan hole you made earlier. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-206.htm Pic 13 Another shot of the end cap off of chassis and fan mounted over fan hole on inside of enclosure. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-216.htm Pic4 You can see another angle of the bottom of the unit. I used a basic foam rubber pad found in shipping packaging as feet and as a spacer between cooler and power supply. The plastic end cap is also visible from this angle. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-202.htm Pic 16 Here you can see the finished unit plugged in with it's own ac adapter like power supply... the one original to the hard drive enclosure. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-191.htm Pic 24 Shows the unit ready for action plugged in and turned on. Testing the units ability to cool a overheating mobile powersupply http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-220.htm Pic 1 Screen shot before starting a test to show the powersupply heating up under a non-stock tdp of 98 and dells stock tdc of 62 with Throttle Stop. using Intel Burn test in 8 thread mode with maximum available memory to fully load all 4 cores of the 920XM, I took this screen shot showing what settings will be used for the duration of this demonstration. Note also Throttle Stop is on and chip-set clock modulation is set to 100% with the multiplier set to turbo so to prevent thermal and power throttling and maintain highest dynamic turbo frequency possible for a given moments temperature and power draw. If the previous mentioned settings allow the processor to run out of spec beyond it's thermal and power limits, which I will show raises the powersupply's temperature (with the powersupply flat on the table like most users place them) well beyond idle temperatures, average and heavy load temperatures for a laptop's AC/DC power-supply adapter. This could lower the life expectancy of any electronic device. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-210.htm Pic 9 8:28pm, idle on desktop for 10 minutes @ 101-102 degrees Farenheit. The temps are being recorded by taping the contact point of a thermal wire coming from a volt-meter set in thermal mode on Farenheit. As a way to determine the validity of these temperatures, the temperature read for the room by not touching the contact wire to any surface at all (at the moment) read 80 degrees farenheit which is fairly accurate being that the ambient temperture in my computer room is about 78 on average unless I block my heat vent in my room. See temperature in picture below. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-196.htm Pic 20 8:29PM I started IBT, immediately after launching I decided to adjust the TDP to 130 and TDC to 110 because I didn't see high enough frequencies to truly push the PS. Since the graphics weren't being stressed at the same time this was my way of exceeding the powersupplys's normal thermal and power specification. I set 100 tests to ensure IBT wouldn't finish or stop stressing the processor before my testing was done. 8:53PM 112 degrees has been reached so far. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-195.htm Pic 21 Temps are 114 degrees and continue rising. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-219.htm Pic 2 9:53PM 115 degrees is reached and maintained. That's 3 degrees higher than the powersupply was 1 hour before. With IBT still pressing on I decide to wait a little longer to watch if there is anymore increases in temperature. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-213.htm Pic 6 Screenshot of Intel Burn Test continuing to stress the processor 9:54 pm while waiting to utilize cooler for second half of test. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-208.htm Pic 11 10:01 pm with the power-supply still maintaining a temperature of 115 degrees I place the power-supply on the cooler off of the table where it had been sitting as designed on it's feet. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-201.htm Pic 17 Immediately the temperature readout lowers by 1 degree to 114. 10:03 pm just 2 minutes later and still under maximum load from IBT the temperature reads as 112 degrees. 10:29 only 28 minutes after placing the power-supply on the cooler the temperature has dropped by 14 degrees from the 115 degrees to 101 degrees still under 100% load since 8:29. Nearly a hour and a half of building heat and stress the cooler has already managed the heat that is in excess of the idle temperature that came from IBT in only 28 minutes of using the cooler. Amazingly the cooler returns temperatures to the the idle temps recorded when we started, which were 101 to 102 degrees with Intel Burn Test still running 100%. I press on. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-203.htm Pic 15 12:29 Intel Burn Test is still running 100% and temperature still dropped lower than idle temps with no cooler. At 98 degrees there has been a total drop under 100% load of 17 degrees over 4 hours of IBT running at 100% cpu usage about 2 1/2 hours of which the cooler had been utilized. After recording temperatures I proceeded to end the Intel Burn Test run. http://forum.techinferno.com/members/brian-k--albums3-209.htm Pic 10 I recorded 88 degrees about 20 minutes after ending the Intel Burn Test run. 14 degrees lower than the 102 degrees idle temps without cooler. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avpM0GWOxLs Video This video shows the cooler plugged in and running. After-Thoughts *You could also use sheet metal cut to the length of the power supply. The width will need to be about double the width of the powersupply plus about 2 inches for the height (that's 1 inch for each side and an extra inch to overlap ends). Drill extra 4 holes through top along seam where you would overlap the sheet metal about 1 inch. I would clamp the piece in place before drilling or mark out both ends and drill while the sheet is flat. Use small bolts and nuts to fasten the sheet metal together into an enclosure shaped like the the hard drive enclosue I used to make my cooler. Take the enclosure and shove it into a larger piece of styrofoam. Pull out the enclosure and cut out the rest of the styro-foam piece, use this piece to insert into the end of enclosure as a cap for your enclosure. Maybe tape end up firmly to make a good seal for air pressure. Repeat for other side except you'll need to make a slit in styro foam to stick your wires through on the other side. Drill holes on side with seam and make a large hole as big as the size of your fans fan blades on the bottom like in the guide above. Follow the above instructions the same with this sheet-metal enclosure in place of the aluminum pre fabricated enclosure I used. *You can buy a fish tank thermometer or any flat sticker-like thermometer and attach it to your power supply to keep track of your temperatures at a glance. *Attach a heatsink from one of those sealed liquid cooled heatsinks you can buy with the included radiator and fan to your powersupply. Place radiator in a place that can vent the heat. *Make a second unit to place on top of the powersupply (in addition to the first cooler unit) aiming down at the top. You can even utilize the same powersupply. *Please I encourage everyone to get creative or atleast find a similar cooling solution. You can buy a hard drive cooler which is not quite the same design but would work the same way if used it to cool your powersupply. Please post your ideas and your own projects or solutions you find for your powersupply here for everyone to build ideas from. *Depending on how many cables are available on the powersupply you use for the cooler you can plug in extra fans for an additonal cooling system for your laptop at the same time. This validates utilizing a seperate powersupply for your cooler. No waste here!

I don't know if you'd be interested in raid 0 samsung pm800 ssd drives but i'd put my system through anything you guys needed and would send or post the results. If needed for the R2 R3 comparison

Thank you I appreciate it, I learn something new everyday. didn't know that was possible. Now everyone has a guide to cluster size. Nice job.

I agree Infernia if you compare them spec by spec it seems like an entirely separate entity. 3D plus slightly more bandwidth on gpu memory. Its 100mhz less on video memory but still has about double the memory bandwith of a 5870m when comparing 5870m to 6970m the later has lower core clock and more battery life due to no crossfire, seems to me its a same sized laptop thats meant to be more portable to lug around and be away from a power socket for awhile.

exactly who would pass up crossfire 6970m and 2920XM with its potential unlocked by TS. No one but if thats not gonna be possible not everyone is gonna jump right in. The 2920XM in itself is quite an upgrade but if TS is unable to manipulate the power limits last years models will be in close competition with this years models. That'll make things interesting. There's Jay he must of been

True it could blow a transistor like you mention the "crack" on the retention mod:33_002: theres always the pop \

Thats a great suggestion I guess I'd have to get it formatted before Windows is installed or being installed, I don't think I can adjust the cluster size on the windows installer.