ibebyi

first of all, 4GB memory is GPU memory, which is dedicated for your display card usage only.

But, imo, adding another piece of ram allows your laptop to dual channel, i think it's a good to go. If you have the budget

I'm sorry but I believe you are misinformed...

Every Y400/Y410p, Y500/Y510p has either 8gb or 16gb of RAM from factory with its sticks split into 2x4GB or 2x8GB, so we are already benefiting from dual channel RAM. It has nothing to do with the graphics card.

Also, our laptops do NOT utilize our GPUs' VRAM separately. If something is being rendered in SLI, everything (mainly textures) are loaded into BOTH cards' memories, limiting the total VRAM to 2gb. Everything loaded into memory on one card needs to also be on the other (if you're rendering 3D with SLI).

Please do some research before posting misinformation as fact :/ (I know you said "Imo, adding another..." but that didn't even really make any contextual sense).

That's how everyones machines are. You always have to manually change your default audio devices when plugging them in.

I didn't know this was a thing... when I plug in my headphones to my y500 the audio switches over to them automatically no matter what's playing... youtube, vlc, games, etc. When I unplug them the speakers take over automatically...

Is it because I've disabled the three Realtek processes from starting with Windows (HD Audio Background Process, RTFTrack, and Realtek HD Audio Manager)? Are there any downsides to doing this? I haven't noticed any degraded audio quality but then my ears aren't as good as they used to be.

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone had swapped out the 3630qm in the Y500 for a 3632qm (lower TDP)? Also if anyone has indeed done this I was wondering what the turboboost frequency was for the 3632qm (all 4 cores). To clarify, the 3630qm, which is listed as 3.4ghz turbo, actually runs at 3.2ghz (all 4 cores) on the y500. Does the 3630qm run at 3.0ghz or 3.2ghz under load?

Since I'm asking this from a temperature standpoint... would just replacing the TIM on the 3630qm yield comparable results? (obviously I would have to reapply TIM if i swapped out the CPU)

Repasting dropped my GPU temps by 10C and CPU temp by 15C under load. I'd say it was worth it.

No idea about your second question, but there's no point in testing with a Kill-a-watt as you'll reach a temperature limit on the GPU before you run out of juice from the 170 W brick. I ran my 650M SLI with 1260/2250 @ 1.137 V and it was reaching throttling temperature (97C) but the charger was able to keep up without draining battery, even when stress testing with OCCT PSU Test (basically 64-bit Linpack + a FurMark-like test simultaneously). Oh yeah and my CPU reached TJmax at 105C and shut down after a few minutes of this.

BTW - I had these issues and went back to 326.80. No more flicker.

I would imagine this would be sorted out in the next beta driver

EDIT: Sorry forgot my clocks.

1150mhz/2350mhz @ 1.050V under load (1.087V idle). Solid gaming performance.

slightly OT: has repasting the CPU actually yielded positive results for anyone? How about the second GPU?

also, Octiceps, do you happen to know at what point on the voltage slider the PSU will not be able to power the CPU+GPU under load?

can't you use nvidiainspector to force a frequency with a batch file? I'm curious since I have a clevo with 770m on the way. Please let me know since I'm curious

Try nvidiaInspector.exe -setGpuClock:0,2,810 -setMemoryClock:0,2,2000 -forcepstate:0,0

lately I've been gaming at 1150 core 2400 mem @ 1050mV and it feels just right. I was wondering tho, in Witcher 2 I'm reaching temps upwards of 85C on my ultrabay GPU (luckily about 12C less on the internal GPU). Do you think these temperatures are destructive in the short-mid term (like 2-3 years max)?

Alright I guess that makes sense. Never had a processor die on me before though. I've been running an AMD Athlon II x4 620 for the past four years, and it's been overclocked from 2.6 to 3.4 GHZ for the entire time. I wish Intel would give us an option to manually engage turbo boost whenever we want.

I was just wondering what GPU clocks people with the GT 650m/750m here were gaming at.

As a disclaimer for those unfamiliar, I understand overclocking hardware is an almost surefire way to shorten its lifespan so please don't bother with posts warning of temperatures or hw damage. I also understand that there are variances within the manufacturing processes for each of our GPUs so they will not all overclock to the same level. Still, I was hoping for some numbers:

I'll start. If you could include the following:

Core: 1150mhz

Mem: 2400mhz

ASIC 1: 78.9%

ASIC 2: 78.6%

Voltage: 1.075V which drops to 1.037V (anyone know why these cards do this?)

Max temp under load (witcher 2): 81C (ultrabay-- too high?)

I've found removing the battery lowers the temps by a degree or two, disabling hyperthreading gives you back like 5C, and laptop coolers give you like 3-5C..

Starting to go a bit nuts. But is anyone noticing GPU clocks randomly resetting with the 2.04 mod?

Thanks.

Haven't read through the previous pages, but aside from the typical gripes with Win8 and its Metro UI, I also dislike the fact that Aero has been stripped from the OS, making it more difficult to distinguish between multiple open windows and which window your mouse cursor is locked to. Win7 put a shadow around the foreground window, making it easier to distinguish from background.

I also dislike that from an aesthetic perspective, everything is square/rectangular, making it even more difficult (at a glance) to distinguish between open windows. I also HATE the new font anti-aliasing/smoothing methods that we're forced to use in IE/metro/office apps. The font is noticeably blurrier. I understand the superior AA method used in Windows 7 didn't support rotatable screens (ie tablets) so a new, less accurate method is used in all Metro/Office/IE products. Would it have been that difficult to incorporate both methods into Win8 and have the OS distinguish whether you were running a PC or a tablet? I personally don't think so, and I think the decision was definitely driven by budget/greed. So ridiculously lame.

Also, in Windows 7, you could suppress ALL requests for Admin rights (UAC), and this wasn't an issue from a security standpoint so long as you used best practices and monitored what goes in/out from your computer. Windows 8, even with UAC "disabled" will still alert you to provide admin rights in a number of scenarios.

I also kinda miss being prompted/warned before being able to arbitrarily delete folders/files. There's probably a setting for this somewhere.

Two things I do like from Windows 8 are probably the new Ctrl+X menu that provides quick access to thing like device manager, control panel, etc. Also it does look like Win8 has a lighter memory/cpu footprint that Win7, but not SO much so that I see any reason to upgrade :/

@octiceps, amazing, it works! thanks a lot. Had no idea that borderless makes the jittering go away. However, running it in window doesn't affect the priority of task for the CPU?

Florin, there's this tool I use called Process Lasso, which let's you automate certain CPU related tasks (like CPU Priority/Affinity). For instance, when I launch Star Wars: KOTOR or System Shock 2, I have Process lasso automatically set to change the CPU affinity to just one core (those games don't really handle multicore well and crashes/locks up). When I launch GTAIV, Process lasso changes the CPU priority to above normal so that GTA IV is given the most attention. This makes it so that I no longer need to mess with Task Manager after launching games.

If you're concerned that running in windowed mode take away cpu priority, you could always counteract it in this way. If you don't want to download a new tool to automate, you could always Ctrl+alt+delete and change the CPU priority to high manually.

Hi, Thank you for the fantastic mods I've upgraded to 2.02 and downgraded to Win7

Since the Windows license thing is baked into our BIOS's, can I just use a Windows 8 pro iso to install on my laptop or will I need to revert anything to stock? Logic tells me I don't but I wanted to get a quick confirmation. Sorry if this has been asked before.

I've seen this before on other laptops. This isn't a defect, just a case of accelerated wear-and-tear due to excessive usage, and I doubt you'll be able to convince Lenovo to cover it under warranty. All I can say is you've been using your laptop too much.

Also, if you tend to sweat a lot on your hands when you game, you should wipe down the keyboard after usage. Sweat is slightly corrosive and leaving it on the keys can speed up the rate at which the keys wear off.

^ Agreed, also, you can replace the worn out key here: Lenovo IdeaPad Y500 Laptop Keys or any other OEM part seller (BTW I'm not affiliated w/laptopkey but I have used them before & got an original part). You'll only need the key cap.

Once you've replaced the key, you also put a rubber keyboard cover over the keyboard. You can get one here (again not affiliated just a quick amazon search): Amazon.com: Coolskin Clear TPU Keyboard Cover Skin for Lenovo Ideapad Y580,Y570,Y570D,Y500,Z580,Z560,Z565,Z570,Z575 Size: 12.2x5.1x0.1, Color : Clear: Computers & Accessories

Hope this gives you some ideas

Yesterday I updated my Bios to version 2.02 and I find that my both gpu's cloak speed is stuck to 135 mhz on AC and doesn't seem to go to the default speed of 790. I also tried nvidia inspector to boost it up in hope to fix it but it didn't work. Also I tried making a clean install of the drivers and nothing changed. Any ideas how I can fix this and use my laptop normally?

This may sound unrelated, but do you have Lenovo's energy management software installed? You should if you left your system stock (or redownloaded all the drivers after a reformat/Win7 install).

Anyway, in Lenovo Energy Management, make sure you are using "Battery Fully-Charged Mode" or else the laptop's GPUs gets stuck in the p8 state @ 135/135 clocks. I have no idea why that setting would affect the graphics cards power state, but hopefully it resolves your problem.

i found for games the cpu is the limiter. cause the cpu goes at 3.3 ghz until the temps get hot, then it slows to 2.4ghz and the game starts to studder until it cools again, and the fast slow fast slow cycle continues. does yours also do that or is it just getting to hot? it happens around 80C.

Hi pierrePoutine, have you tried disabling BD Prochot, Short PWR duration limit, and C-states on your y500 within the bios? Do you have throttlestop @ 3.2ghz? I find that with all of these things my pc NEVER goes below 3.2ghz, unless I want it to (hotkeyed Throttlestop profiles for battery savings and stuff). The stock cooling design should be able to handle any increased heat without a problem (mine does at least).

I have an on-screen display that tell me my GPU clock/utilization, as well as for the CPU, and it reports CONSTANT 3.2ghz, no matter the temperature.

Hey Jester first off thank you for these. I just wanted to let you know that you really don't to make an undervolted version, as you can undervolt your card by 12mv increments by increasing the P0 clock offsets (nvidiainspector), and locking the card to p5 state. You can have total voltage control, especially in conjunction with your increased voltages. So the ideal situation would be to flash the 1.1v version you posted, then adjust the base clock offsets to really have the card running at like 1.012v, 1.025v, or 1.037v as needed.

As an example, If anyone wants to try (on a stock voltage y500), here is my .bat file for nvidiainspector:

nvidiaInspector.exe -setBaseClockOffset:0,0,400 -setMemoryClockOffset:0,0,500 -setGpuClock:0,1,1090 -setMemoryClock:0,1,2500 -setBaseClockOffset:1,0,400 -setMemoryClockOffset:1,0,500 -setGpuClock:1,1,1090 -setMemoryClock:1,1,2500 -forcepstate:0,5 -forcepstate:1,5

This will put you at 1090 core/2500 mem @ .975V (probably not gaming stable). See what I mean?

Did you have to flash the BIOS to install the 6325? I am considering changing my wifi, but I don't think its worth that much trouble.

I believe that if you can somehow find a very specific Lenovo branded 6235 you can install it without the bios mod. But I don't think you can order that specific part from any third party vendor. I ended up doing the bios mod and replacing it with a 6235 I found on amazon, and it's worked pretty well so far.

A little tip: I've found my download speeds were much higher when I disabled all bluetooth related devices in my device manager. You may want to give this a shot. Of course you do not want to do this if you have any bluetooth devices paired to your laptop.

Hi jester_socom, what is the difference between your mod & svl7? I am looking to oc my 650m SLI only and don't really need the wlan whitelist removal. Thanks in advance.

alongside the wlan card whitelist you mentioned, svl7's bios mod also allowed overclocking the core of the internal GPU to above 925(?)Mhz. svl7 also released a separate download which unlocked the limit for the ultrabay 650m as well. However, I've read here that the new 320 drivers from Nvidia have unlocked the 925Mhz limit as well. It's worth noting that overclocking with this method may require the use of a program called Nvidiainspector (it's actually a really great program with a very small memory footprint, I highly recommend it regardless).

I still did the svl7 mod and ended up getting a new wlan card (because the centrino 2230 was terrible). I bought the centrino 6235, and honestly it hasn't been much better; in the end I just moved my router upstairs.

As long as the 650M can handle the increased voltage of the 750M, which isn't guaranteed. 750M could be binned higher.

Could be because of thermal issues.

You guys should check these two out:

Logisys Computer Wind Pal Black Laptop Cooler Pad Model NP88BK - Newegg.com

Logisys Computer Dual 140mm Fan Aluminum Laptop Cooling Pad Model NP8 - Newegg.com

These look really nice. I bought the first one and it should be coming tomorrow. I can give my impressions if you guys are interested. Hopefully it works a lot better than my old laptop cooler which pushes a pitiful amount of air. 1 x 140 mm fan at 1000 RPM and 32 CFM is barely enough to feel a breeze in your hand. That black one I bought is 2x140 mm fans at 1200 +/- 120 RPM with 115 CFM which should be a massive improvement in cooling efficiency and should hopefully help my CPU run a bit cooler. Those specs are better than other laptop coolers costing twice as much so it's a great deal. The aluminum cooler looks really well designed and sturdy but it is heavier and I need to be able to carry it around in my backpack. Plus, it's got lethally sharp corners and the reviews say people have been making themselves bleed because of it LOL.

Yeah I have the aluminum one and shortly after buying it I noticed I had random cuts on my hands and arms xP. I'd suggest taking a sander or something to the corners if you get this one. They machine it SHARP.