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Hi all, After I saw this result: http://hwbot.org/submission/2830783_0.0_cpu_frequency_core_i7_4700mq_4550_mhz , I got interested to replicate it with a similar method and decided to share my steps to score higher than a desktop 4.4ghz 4770k (according to cinebench ;)) Intel Stock microcode has a Turbo multiplier bin glitch that allows unlimited multiplier increase, I used prema's bios and removed a cpu microcode update to let the cpu run the stock glitched microcode. I will share the bios file, use it at your own responsibility and if you know what you are doing. 1) Download or dump your BIOS, if your bios is ami (my case) then use AFUWINx64 2) Get AMI Aptio UEFI MMTool v22.214.171.124 and UEFITool, HxD (or your fav hex editor) 3) Open your BIOS image with UEFITool, then File>Search, in our case Haswell has the following ID: , enter C3 06 03 in Hex pattern dialog click OK 4) You can see the last four Hex pattern result, double click the first result and a structure item in the main dialog will be highlighted, right click>Extract as-is to a folder (be sure to be neat and organized or you will mess things up) 5) Do the same with the third result and save it as a diff name other than the first one 6) Now in the folder you have saved the 2 files from step 4&5, open the first one with HxD(any hex editor) and look for be sure to choose Datatype:Hex-values then hit search 7) Press F3 to find again till you reach this pattern(highlighted): 8) (1) Indicates the microcode version, 17 in this case, we want 00 (cpu stock), (2) the platform ID (the search context we reached at) (3) the microcode length = 5000 (in my case) in reverse (important to know when the microcode ends in order to remove). 9) Adjust the cursor on the beginning of the highlight text/microcode (01) right click>Select Block>Length>5000 or whatever in your case 10) Delete the highlighted blocks (after step 9) then save the file 11) Do the same with the second result from step 3 to 10 then save 12) go back to UEFITool, double click the first result like you did in step 4, right click the highlighted structure in the main dialogue > Replace as-is then choose the FIRST file you edited in HxD 13) Double click the third result and follow step 12 with the SECOND file you edited in HxD 14) You will see "Rebuild" in action row, File>Save image as> P15SM04.PM2 in my case (can be any name as long as your flashing tool recognize it) 15) Open AMI Aptio MMTool > Load Image > your modified rom > CPU Patch Tab and verify there is no 06C3 in CPU ID 16) Be brave and flash your BIOS Windows Mod to remove auto update microcode on boot: Click on Start Type CMD in the Search box Right-click on CMD and choose Run as Administrator In the Command Prompt window and change to the directory where the file is located. To do this, use the CD command. You can follow the example below. to change to the Windows\System32 directory you would enter the following command and Press Enter cd \windows\system32 Now use the DEL command to delete the offending file. Type DEL mcupdate_GenuineIntel (and backup) Done! Overclocking: 1) Check CPU MCID:Download AIDA64 , open AIDA64>Motherboard>CPUID and look at IA Brand ID, it should be 00h 2) Download the latest beta Throttlestop (not stable) in my case 810b2 3) Make sure you don't have XTU installed or running (especially at startup) or it will reset any changes in Throttlestop 4) Open throttlestop, click FIVR and look at "[checkbox] Overclock [DIALOG] Max" and note it down 5) Now here is the magic! close FIVR and open it again, [DIALOG] Max value should increase by 2 (up to 80x max ~ 8ghz) everytime you open and close FIVR aslong as long as you increase one of the cores, LOL 6) Increase "Set multiplier" to maximum after your final changes in FVIR (Iv set mine to 42x all cores, so I increased set multiplier to 42 aswell - note voltage ID is messed up ignore it) 7) Increase voltage in FVIR for stability by using cinebench run 3 times instead of prime95, as it stresses FPU which increases heat and tdp instead... 8) Unlock maximum TDP and turbo wattage in TPL, in my case: 9) Done! Changes should be persistent as long as you dont save and exit from BIOS, here is my result in Cinebench with temp throttling (from 4.3 to 3.9 ghz), room temp 25-27 XD: (no.1 at 4.2ghz, no.7 stock latest microcode) UPDATE: OCed RAM from 1600 to 1866, email@example.comGhz, +200mV adaptive vcore: I'm also getting 852 with 4.5ghz with this adaptive voltage-like method: Note: You can maintain maximum turbo multiplier bin with latest microcode after setting it in throttlestop (imp: no crash when testing; make sure its stable) then flash the latest microcode for bug fixes (more stable on my side at x45 with only +230mv, depends on your CPU, i7-4800+ will require less voltage), and you will still be able to set the bin high (up to 80x) as long as you don't crash... Post your results and I'll copy it here. Tips: I highly recommend lapping heatsink and use liquid metal thermal paste or any decent tp ( I used collaboratory liquid ultra) before doing this -If your cpu throttles no matter what, try decreasing dynamic voltage in FVIR and look at maximum value the package power indicate while stressing, decrease the value by 10% in order to avoid rapid throttling (happens with bad TP) -Do not attempt the OC if you are looking after long service life wear&tear (I expect 2 years from now if I stress the cpu everyday for an hour, which i never do :P) Happy overclocking, and don't melt your laptop Thanks to Intel if they leaked this on purpose, kinda futureproofed my machine XD P150SM 1.03.05 modded bios (at your own risk): MOD EDIT: link removed, please use a clean BIOS base because of legal implications with Intel :
Apologies for the wall of text, next time I take this machine apart I will take some photos! Teardown Instructions: ---- WARNING! THIS WILL MOST LIKELY INVALIDATE YOUR WARRANTY WITH DELL ---- ---- This is a guide only, no warranties or guarantees are implied, damage is at your own risk --- ---- You will need: T9 TORX screwdriver (to remove CPU only), Decent Thermal Paste, Philips Screwdriver, Thin flatblade screwdriver, Isoproponal electronics cleaner (Meths will probably work too), paper towels, plastic pry tool (or very strong fingers!) ---- If trying to "recover" the BIOS from an overclock, you will also need a non overclockable processor such as the i7-4700MQ or i7-4702MQ. It may work with the i7-4800MQ but I have not tried it. Steps: Turn system upside down, with the back / cooling fans towards you. Undo the 3 screws on the base. Carefully lift the plate that covers the front of the system (furthest from you) it is clipped in at the sides Carefully push the back plate with the fan grilles away from you about 5mm, this unclips it which means it is free to be lifted off. Remove the 2.5" HDD bay (4 rubber grommeted screws) and SATA connector from the motherboard Remove the DVD drive plate (4 screws) and SATA connector from the motherboard. Remove the battery (2 screws) and battery connector. Carefully remove 5 ribbon connectors. 2 are on the right near the 2.5" bay area, these are vertical. To remove, lift the plastic collar of the motherboard connector with a flat blade screwdriver. pull the ribbon cables up using the attached tab (not the wire) They should lift with no force, if they are still stuck, the collar needs to come up more. Remove the 3 horizontal cables under the DVD drive. You one need to undo one side of each. Undo the connector closest to the back in this area, then undo the SD card reader at the side closest to the edge, lift the white locking collar to do this and slide the ribbon cable out using the tab. repeat this for the connector underneath, this is the long one and will need gentle prizing (if you use too much force at once, you will break the locking collar). Remove the SD Card or SD card spacer / blanking plate (IMPORTANT!) Remove all the screws with a P in a circle next to them. take note of the size information. It tells you the width and length of the screw. This is very important when putting the system back together, it you put a long screw in a short hole it may damage the system or ruin the aesthetics. likewise a short scew in a long hole may not grip enough causing other problems. The next part will use the pry tools and is not for the feint hearted! Getting the AW18 apart is a pain, even when all the screws are out there are clips holding the palm rest on these are so tight, most will break when you separate the palm rest from the base of the system. It seems to be easier starting the separation at the point above the power connector and working towards the front. At that point, open the lid / screen as far as it goes, then unclip the back clips around the hinge. Then pull the palmrest away from the other side and these clips will stay intact. Finally lift it from the back and pull towards the screen, this will save the clips to the front of the palmrest. With the palmrest off you can change the second bank of DIMMS, Wireless card, CPU and graphics card. To get the CPU out, you will need to undo the lid hinge screws from the top, there are 3 in total. (2 on the left and one on the right). You will also need to remove the plastic guide for the wireless antennae leads. This has one screw on the right side. Remove the display cable from the motherboard and the logo led cable (use a small flatblade screwdriver to lever the white connector, don't pull the lead). If you have 2 video cards, you will need to remove the SLI cable. Disconnect the right side first, the cable is only wedged between the heatpipe and hinge, then carefully remove the tape from the CPU heatpipe. Then lift the lid away from the base slowly, you don't need to disconnect the antennae leads, you just need a small amount of clearance to get the CPU heatsink out. Undo the CPU heatsink screws, follow the order they show. (before you do this, make sure you have some good thermal paste, something like Arctic Silver 5 or Coolaboratory Pro). ---- FOR BIOS RESET STEP ONLY --- Install the i7-4700MQ and give it a reasonable thermal connection (you can probably re-use the existing thermal paste). Boot it up with a USB mouse and keyboard plugged in (this way you can keep the palm rest off). There is a power switch soldered onto the motherboard, just in front of the "bottom" DIMM, roughly centered between right and left. Follow the steps about the BIOS resetting below: I have to go into BIOS, reset to defaults (F9), save (F10) and then reboot again. Go into BIOS a second time (F2) and then you can disable overclocking support in the performance option (under advanced) Replace the CPU with the original that supports overclocking (i7-4930MX or i7-4900MQ for sure, not sure about i7-4800MQ). This time clean it up with the isoproponal cleaner fluid, make sure all traces of the old thermal paste have been cleaned from the copper heatsink pad and the top of the CPU / capacitors. Be careful not to break bits off the CPU die (the long grey rectangle) as this is actually the CPU and you will start to remove transistors from it! Its fairly tough, a bit like glass, but can be scratched, crushed or shattered if mis treated. Make sure you don't get cleaner and paste on the pins or in the socket. pour a small amount onto a paper cloth and use this to wipe the paste away. Don't pour directly onto the CPU, motherboard, socket or heatsink. Follow heatsink paste manufacturers instructions of how to apply the paste (I have used both Arctic Silver 5 and Coolaboratory Liquid Metal pad, the pad is much easier to apply and seems to have great results! Coollaboratory*Liquid MetalPad - the innovation of cooling for High-End sytems) Be careful not to get these metal based thermal interface pastes onto the capacitors on the CPU. Fire up the system with the palm rest off to make sure it boots (it may reset a few times or beep continuously on the first boot, this is normal. if you get the beeps, just switch it off and on again, the next time it should eventually boot (may take a minute or so to get through the BIOS screen, or even to get the AW logo). When you get the opportunity to enter BIOS setup, once again go into the BIOS and make sure overclocking options are switched off. (The BIOS auto detects the CPU and normally the OC options come back on) ---- END OF BIOS OC RESET ---- ---- GPU THERMAL PASTE CHANGE ---- If you are feeling super brave you can repeat the process on the GPU too. Personally, I found a 10 Celsius improvement in replacing the stock paste with the coolaboratory pad. The system fans stay off longer while in Windows too. ---- END OF GPU THERMAL PASTE CHANGE ---- ---- RECONSTRUCTION --- Make sure the SLI cable is reconnected.. I have done this in the past after putting it all back together to find it was not re connected, no cable, no SLI!! Hopefully it worked and booted to Windows (Check SLI is enabled, if the options are non existent then the cable is not reconnected properly (or you have 1 card!)) If no NVDIA options are enabled, the system is probably in Intel GFX mode, press FN + F5 to reboot in NVIDIA GFX mode. If everything is OK, repeat the teardown in reverse to reconstruct your machine. When the system is rebuilt but the power button, touchpad, LEDs, backlight or SD card reader don't work, this is because the ribbon cables were not connected back or locked down properly. Make sure the ribbon cables are square to their sockets (there is a guide line on the cable to indicate the final position) and the locks are clamping the cables. The next time I need to take the system apart again I will include some photos! Good luck!
Hi All, I have got my hands on a few new 4th gen core (Haswell) machines recently... I have been lurking on TI for about 15 months, came here looking for Kepler video bioses after MKV tech went away, in that time I've not really posted any information. I found so much more than I was looking here over that time, I thought I would share something in return. As I have the W230ST right here (I'm typing this on it) I thought I would share my thoughts with you. I have a lot of experience with older Clevo and other laptops over the years and this one is continuing the improvements that have been present in more recent Clevo laptops. In my opinion this is a worthy successor to the M860TU and the W110ER (if you don't know what that M860TU is, click here: M860TU Clevo Specs) This one is configured with a 1080p IPS panel (with PSR to save power), i7-4900MQ, 16GB DDR3-1866 CAS10 (Corsair Vengeance), 2x 240GB Intel 525 Series mSATA SSD, 1x 960GB M500 Crucial SSD, Intel 6235 ABGN Wireless with Bluetooth. It also comes with the NVIDIA GTX765M with 2GB DDR5. Apart from the screen and wireless card, all the other bits were added by myself. I have installed Win 8 on the system, I'm a big Win 7 fan, but personally I have had no problem with the transition, even on a device with no touchscreen.It does provide super speedy boot times and seems to offer better compatibility with Clevo's power utilities. Plus Points: 1. The system size / weight for the spec. It's 35mm high (sat on a desk to to top of the screen) and weighs 2KG. Even the PSU is smaller than 120W bricks that have been shipped recently (it is the same as the one that ships with the W350ST) 2. Keyboard. This is a first! I'm not normally a fan of Clevo's keyboard setup, but they have made this one very rigid, so the laptop does not flex while typing! Also the keyboard has a subtle white back-light, combined with the chicklet style and semi-tactile covering on the keys, it is a nice experience.* * I have yet to test the keyboard for gaming, so not sure how it will cope with multi-key presses. 3. Its quiet! Yes the fan controller does seem to allow the fan to switch off, right now the fan is silent, occasionally it will kick in to its slowest settings. There are several power modes with the Clevo Control Center tool, one is silent which limits the CPU speed to 1.7GHz, Multimedia and Performance. There is also power saver too which seems to switch off most of the system including the wireless card! I'm running in performance mode right now and it is still silent. If the CPU is not working too hard it will still got to 800MHz. 4. The Screen - This 1080p IPS screen is superb, I’m running at 100% scaling and can see this text perfectly. This is a nice resolution for a 13.3" panel. The good news is that you can run games at a lower resolution to increase detail and framerate and they don't look fuzzy. 5. Performance - The performance is excellent for a small machine like this, I got just shy of P5000 on 3D mark 11 and 1000 points / 24fps on Unigine Valley (This was with a 120MHz Core / 600MHz Memory OC on the GFX). To give you some context, My AW M14XR2 with a GTX650M and the VGA unlocked BIOS from this site could get P3222 with a 340MHz Core OC (bringing the core to 1176MHz) and 1000MHz extra on the memory (Bringing memory to 3000MHz) 6. The lid is painted with that soft touch paint, personally I like this. 7. It looks nice! - You would not be embarrassed to be seen in public with it! 8. Good I/O , there are 3 USB 3.0 Ports and 1x USB 2 port. One of the USB 3 ports is always powered. There is also HDMI, VGA, LAN, 2x Audio (Mic and Headset) there is also a card reader in the front, and the card goes almost flush with the body when pushed in (this is nicer than some laptops with have the card sticking out). The card is on a push latch. Not so good points: - These may be particular to my machine, please don’t assume it is a general problem. 1. Its quiet when at idle / light use, however there is a bit of a ticking rattle that occasionally comes up (its like a PWM frequency harmonic is manifesting in the fan motor). Also the fan creates some vibration in the body of the laptop (ironically if I were using a mechanical HDD this would not be an issue as it would not be felt) 2. Loud when pushed - I think this is the same for all smaller laptops, although it is louder than the AW14 with the same components. Although when I'm playing games I have my headset on, so this becomes a non-issue. 3. Power to the USB ports. I tried to connect a USB optical drive to the machine to copy the drivers that Clevo supply, the drive would initialise and then as the motor spins up would disappear from the OS. I tried this drive / disk on an AW17 which worked perfectly (the AW17 also has an optical of course). The drive only had one USB connector, so would only take power from one port. 4. Position of the USB ports. All the USB ports are on the front quarter of the machine, with the 3x USB 3.0 on the right, this means if you have HDDs etc. plugged in, these can get in the way of your mouse movement. 5. No Display Port - Instead of the VGA (or as well as), it would have been nice to have a displayport connector, this would allow a higher than 1080p panel to be connected . 5. No NVIDIA Verde support for Clevo yet, or at least the SVID / SDID for this GTX 765 - I tried to hack the inf of the current Verde Beta Driver - but this caused a failure on boot. The supplied 311 drivers work fine but are old! 6. Although the screen is great, it does have a semi-gloss finish. It would be nicer if it was Matte. 7. Palm rest, this is another symptom of a smaller machine, the palm rest is very slightly too short, also it is painted glossy plastic, it would be nicer if it had the same soft touch surface as the lid. (The AW14 has a longer palm rest and is painted with soft touch paint) 8. TIM - The stock TIM is just about enough for stock speeds, if you a building yourself, or the person who built it for you didn’t change the TIM, this is an easy upgrade path. I'm using Arctic Silver 5 on this system. Even under load the CPU will not go over 85C and the GPU over 78C. 9. Cannot give the CPU more power. Or at least with XTU... The short and long term turbo power limits are greyed out. I can reduce turbo vcore however which means the CPU will turbo higher under load before it reaches its power limit. - Will Throttlestop be able to change this? As you can see the list of gripes are really minor issues day to day, and some will be fixed with drivers etc. I'm not sure what sort of price your favourite system builder will charge for this, probably less than an AW14 configured to the same spec! I will get some pics and screenshots for my next post. Any Q's feel free to ask! Onyoto