Cheshire147

So yah i have done several RMA's b2 with ASUS my most recent is the x99 so here is what I did..... I took a phone external charger that you put a double A in and the connector connect it like you normally would - to - , + to + but when you put the battery in reverse the polarity by putting the battery in backwards....then plug the usb from the usb port to the onboard or any usb on your box.... buy these fairly cheap and reusable items to do this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9RBSY7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07H9RBSY7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VHC04NI/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00VHC04NI https://www.amazon.com/Ayangg-Battery-Holder-Storage-Plastic/dp/B07KYCHHWC/ref=pd_day0_hl_200_25?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07KYCHHWC&pd_rd_r=330e70b2-4d44-11e9-81ea-71d290bf4808&pd_rd_w=66EL8&pd_rd_wg=cMuBo&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=C9WFY8D5SW2D2YBBCD42&psc=1&refRID=C9WFY8D5SW2D2YBBCD42 so you do the basic setup red to red etc with the battery holder and the usb car attchment. Once you have these solder'd add some elc tape and bring it over to your machine while its on or atleast getting continuity running threw......plug the the device into any usb slot remember the batteries need to be reversed it will sent a surge directly threw a pci device add on and will basically fry it killing the oversurge protection they ad onto boards or that autoshutdown when OC becomes overwhelming..... the best thing about this trick is if your mobo looks ok....and there is no real physical damage when you send it off to be rma'd they dont see any blown compassitors or fried regulators....it wont even show in the windows or bios logs.....so they assume it just derped....also tell them you started having issues when you went to windows 10 and the board just wouldnt boot back up even gain power or boot to bios after you updated to the latest bios.....they will be confused as to why the board doesnt work, and will complete the RMA sending you a new board I did this after buying an x99 on from Amazon 3y of use.....they couldnt figure it out and since there was no physical damage they just sent me a new one... (your ram/hhd/ssd/gpu/etc cpu will all be fine when you do this it basically corrupts overvolting with gaming boards.....second you feel it heat up and start to smell unplug it....your board is garunteed fried, RMA it trust me works did it twice..... or go buy the same board at your local store and do a looky loo the people glance at the shit in the box at best they never inspect it I buy ddr4 with heatsinks @ $500 then use a heat gun remove the heat sink cause fuck it I just want the ddr4 ram ( i need heatsinks ill get some on amazon for 10$) then I throw old shitty ram inside with the heat sinks and return the ram.....they get stuck with ddr2 that is probley no good anyways but looks legit cause i put the heat sinks over em.....they dont give a fuck and most of them dont know the difference in the pins and shit.....ez switch er oooooo.... either way they get paid they will write it off as a loss in 6months when some other sucker ends up buying the discounted open box ram and tells them its some other shit by that time ur gaming premo style...and if your really paranoid pay with cash or use a burner cc. GL

dont forget even if you have a egpu you still need to make sure the bandwith mhz dont bottleneck with your ddr4 im assuming so if you clocking 2334 x4 @ 8gb sticks 32 @ that CLK needs to be 256k so make sure if your going to do dual graphics be it external or internal the drivers must be a different ark. take a look at the screen shot I have look here https://www.pcgamer.com/dealing-with-memory-leaks/