blowntaha

Yeah, I tried that second tool and it doesn't seem to have any affect whatsoever. Here are my 'results':

first run - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-3610QM Processor,LENOVO Product Name

second run - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-3610QM Processor,LENOVO Product Name

I used this tool, Timer Resolution « Lucas Hale

.... Damn! Got a rocking GPU but CPU holding me back lol

EDIT: I'm beginning to think it's a bugged OS/chipset install. I'm running windows 8 x64, and whenever I install OR preinstall chipset/iGPU drivers, it'd hang on dxapi for a couple minutes and then contues to install like normal... I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to happen, and since CPU has a rather large influence on physics, I bet that's the issue.. Time to waste an hour or two reinstalling, woohoo... -.-

yeah i also get physics scores of ~7600 when benching 3DMark11... what I do for this (besides the tweak in the BIOS i mentioned a few posts before):

i use throttlestop 5.00, great tool. my settings: clock modulation 100%, chipset clock mod 100%, multiplier at 32.0 x and 'BD PROCHOT' turned off. use this settings and just click on 'Turn On'

also a nice tool for monitoring the temperatures and clocks

the second tool for increasing the CPU-performance a bit is 'Set Timer Resolution'. just open it and click on 'Maximum'.

gives me a little bit smoover gameplay. and in Crysis 3 it gave me a nice bump up in frames. more stable now

should also work for other intensive-games

Thanks for the reply, I've already been using thrrottlestop with those exact settings, so maybe 'Set Timer Resolution' is the missing key. I'll post my results. Thanks.

I'd just like some clarity, and what is the most recent, up-to-date information/warnings before I try and flash the v8.01 modified BIOS over my currently (what I have right now) v2.07 modified BIOS to prevent any more bricks (again!) since I am no longer under warranty. I took the time to compile some conflicting quiotes. What I have done since receiving my laptop back from Lenovo's RMA is flash the default/stock BIOS v2.04 (or 2.05, dont remember which but was earlier than v2.06 I think), updated it to the one on the support site, and then flashed your BIOS. AND THEN I flashed the 1.125 VBIOS mod --(and then)--> 1.15 VBIOS mod ----> 1.175 V ----> 1.15 V ----> 1.125 ----> (repasted system xD) ----> 1.15 V ----> 1.175 (current).

03-20-2013, 11:11 AM

Actually the 2.0x users can just go and flash according with the included utility, just as I wrote in the first post. Only the 8.0x users have to do it the other way.

11-02-2013, 07:55 AM

I mentioned it over and over again, only flash a mod of the same bios version as your stock version.

04-13-2013, 11:28 AM

Hello Svl7

I finally took the adventure to flash your unlocked V8.01 version and it works!

It is amazing that I have the bios version of V8.01 and EC version of V2.07.(None of Win8 License in bios)

I just used the dos command flashit xxxx.rom /MC /BIOS.

My machine is still in warranty and I think Lenovo customer service can just help change the mainboard if I crashed my machine.

So I get my target finally.

Anyway,thanks a lot again for your hardworking

??????????

Before I bricked my y580, I followed the "flashing procedure" posted by nicholas0444 a few pages back. I performed the BIOS flashing successfully, however the settings were rather bugged and turning off discrete graphics (e.g. enable UMA GRAPHIC ONLY; to get kali linux working. It wasn't displaying anything, but was definitely booting from stock bios settings) subsequently bricked my laptop beyond BIOS recovery. It should also be noted I used the long written out guide/tutorial/instructions on the first post for 8.0x unlocked BIOS flashing procedure (s).

On a side, yet possibly relevant, note: Only reason I flashed in loops changing voltage on 660m was because my temps when I was on 1.15 - 1.175 Volts, my temps were approaching 80-83!! It was throttling and crashing left and right. This was after my first repasting since I received it back from repairs. The method I used for applying the paste was a single dot, and let the heat sink spread it out (only on CPU and GPU). The second time, I carefully and evenly spread it using a credit card and not only on the GPU and CPU, but also on all the little grey regulator things that come in (direct) contact with the heat sink (forgot the name ). I am now running much higher clocks than before, with temps barely going over 65 C. Highest it went was 71 C, which was after 4+ hrs of skyrim and random 3dmark 11 benchmarks and a few 1-2 min OCCT tests, but never goes beyond 65 C for 3DMARK 11. So I'm assuming the spread method is better than dot method even though dot method is the generally accepted, "best" method of applying thermal paste (and applying it to the grey things helps?)

A while ago, I got 4234 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-3610QM Processor,LENOVO Product Name and realized why I wasn't able to recreate it. It was because I had virtu MVP installed, but it's strange because I only used it for skyrim (which didn't work at all) and was disabled on my laptop for a long time, without uninstalling it. Anyways, without it, I'm able to get 3838 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-3610QM Processor,LENOVO Product Name (3DMARK 11) with 1380 core / 3050 memory, and suprisingly enough, with subtle, minor artifacts. Haven't found stable clocks for gaming, though; since if my clocks are too low I get BSODs or (usually) driver crashes and if clocks too high I just get driver crashes, both requiring reboots.

(!!) Also (!!), how come someone got such a higher physics score of 7619 ( NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-3610QM Processor,LENOVO Product Name ) when I average about 6950s - 7100s.

Sorry for the TLDR, but hopefully someone learns something from my questions/experiences.

Another BIOS tweak you can do is disable C-States (same screen as posted above), which clocks down CPU while it is "idle" (or rather what the laptop/OS determines to be idle). My 3Dmark 11 scores went from ~3450 -3500s to 3650s (with 660M at 1.125 V) On 1.175 V (plus a lot of other tweaks), I was able to get up to 4234! I can't wait to try this when I go back to 1.175 Volts!

Links:

1. 1.125 V, C-States OFF benchmark: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-3610QM Processor,LENOVO Product Name
   
2. 1.175 V, C-States ON benchmark: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-3610QM Processor,LENOVO Product Name
   

EDIT: Oh, and I forgot to mention I also enabled HPET (from windows) and it did give me about 50-80 points boost on 3DMARK 11 scores. I couldn't find it in bios so I figured I'd try it just from OS side and well, I got better performance

Anyone know how to update the Intel ME firmware (NOT the driver, but the actual firmware version which is displayed in BIOS) ? I found a link on how to do this, but seeing as how I've (soft) bricked my laptop so many times and hard bricked it once, I don't want to take anymore chances since I am now out of warranty.

Guide located here Intel Management Engine: Drivers, Firmware and Tools

Ultimately what I'm trying to do is change the BCLK (BaseCLocK / FSB) on my 3610QM to try and squeeze in a 3-7 MHz + 100 MHz (FSB); following the following guide: http://forum.techinferno.com/general-notebook-discussions/2091-lets-enable-overclocking-all-6-7-series-laptops.html

I'm not quite sure if either of these guides will help me with OCing my FSB, so if anyone can shine some light on this, I'd appreciate it. Previously, I tried to use Intel XTU, but everything was locked/greyed out; however after changing the BIOS settings schranzmaster suggested (scroll up), it unlocked the following in XTU:

1. ​Turbo Boost Short Power Max Enable (Enable/Disable)
   
2. Turbo Boost Short Power Max: 36 W --> 4095 W
   
3. Turbo Boost Power Max: 36 W --> 4095 W
   
4. Turbo Boost Power Time Window: 0.00097656 Seconds --> 0.01562500 Seconds
   

So, perhaps based on this there is another BIOS setting which can be changed to allow FSB tuning? Has anyone been able to successfully do this? The obvious BIOS section, ICC control, is limited on my unlocked BIOS (2.07).

Thanks for reading/potentially helping or informing

It looks like there is an issue with the link to the unlocked version of 2.07 bios. Anyone happened to know an alternative way to get it?

Dunno if you were experiencing a temporary website issue or if the problem is on your end, but I just downloaded it and extracted it perfectly fine (didn't flash it, just downloaded to check).

Anyone got a solution to the "The version of rom file isn't newer than version of bios?" error? I keep getting that.

Any help appreciated

Answer to that is below, and in many other posts in this thread (and if you scroll up a bit, you'll see it there too), search is your friend.

I would like to flash the BIOS back to the original "locked" version 2.07. How can I do this?

NOTE: before you take my word for it, let someone confirm that what I am saying is correct, which I believe it is.

Anyway, you could go about this three ways. I'll list them from most to least ideal methods.

1. Boot to DOS, and using the same method used to flash svl7's 8.0x unlocked BIOS (located on the first page), only you will be skipping the "BIOS Fix" part and you'd use the BIOS from Lenovo's website instead of thee unlocked one.

2. Download the BIOS from Lenovo's website, and run the .exe file. If you get the "This version of rom file is newer blah blah.." What you want to do is use winrar (or any preferred compression/extraction software) to extract the BIOS file you originally downloaded from Lenovo's site. Then, change RESSDIN to RESSEN in the platform.ini file in line three (as stated multiple times in previous posts) and proceed as normal.

3. Use the FN+B (or whatever your recovery key combination is) BIOS recovery method to flash it. I have a step by step how-to mini guide on how to do this a few pages back.

EDIT: @ svl7, if you're reading this, just wanted to say sorry for calling/referring to you as slv not svl, seems to be a common mistake lol

My current lenovo model Y480 has bios version 8.0 (5DCN89WW) I found MODs from Svl7 for 5DCN40WW and 5DCN90WW but no clarity on the 89WW. Is it safe to apply the 90WW mod to my laptop?

Regards.

I think more people are having trouble with 8.01 than the 8.00, so I'd say yes, but then again, I didn't have the stock v8.00 bios.

Is there a way to backup my bios and try this step?

• Prepare an USB stick which can boot DOS. If you don't know how to do this, follow this short guide:
  

  
  Guide by @StamatisX - thanks!
  
  

  
  .
  .
  

• Download the flash tool, for flashing you'll need the DOS version, but for creating the backup of your current BIOS the Win64 version will do as well, and it is faster. Get the prr tool as well.
  .
  .
  
• Grab the modified BIOS you want to flash and the Y580-Y480_BiosFix tool.
  .
  .
  
• Create a backup of your current BIOS using the flash tool you downloaded (first step) by runing the included backup.bat, or by using the Win or Dos version flash tool with this command:

  -d BackupBiosY500.bin -bios

  
  If you get and 'Error 104', grab this fix and replace the original fparts file with it.
  

Hello, I flashed beta chineese version bios and then 8.01 unlocked - reboot and everythink was ok. But today i powered on laptop and saw blackscreen((( I tried recovery bios (named it QIWY3.bin and press fn+ fan started spining up with 100% power and nothing....

It seems like a lot of people are having trouble with recovery and 8.01 in general. What was your previous BIOS version? Also, since you did receive some sort of response when trying fn+b (fans going full blast), then that likely means it entered recovery mode but something was off on your USB, like a filename, etc. Did you try different variations of the file? When I had to do this a while ago, I put several different copies like: QIWY3, QIWY, QIWY2, QIWY6; and all with different extentions, I had a couple different variations for each filename, I used: .bin .bi .rom .b (used some others too but I forgot). That last part was probably unnecessary, but I was in a panic during that moment. :S

Also, try to:

*use one of the USB ports on the right side

*unplug charger, remove battery

*hold power button for 10 seconds

*plug in USB

*press and hold the recovery keys (the whole time!!)

*plug in charger, then while STILL holding the keys, push the power button

*keep holding recovery keys!!!

*hold the keys for about 5-6 minutes

At this point if nothing happens (meaning, it doesn't restart/shutdown itself, or the LED on your USB doesn't light up/respond), then you might want to explore other options and read up on some of the other posts on this thread. Or maybe slv/someone else can shine in on your issue, but I think a lot of people had issues with this. You may also want to try reformatting your USB (FAT/FAT32 and making sure that the BIOS you're trying to recover to is either your previous stock BIOS version (not modded), or the one from Lenovo's website. If your previous BIOS version was something other than 2.07, then you could try and search around on this forum or google for the right version. Hope I helped.

Good news,but as you've already in the V2.07 now ,how can you help backup the V2.07 original for me ?

Maybe I have to ask for assistant from someone else.

Oh wow, fuck me I forgot. Well, I also thought you wouldn't want it after slv saying

Your windows licenses, service tags and serial numbers are also part of this data... just saying.

I think it'd be better for you to ask someone else, but if you can't find anyone, I'll try to help (I'll need instructions!).

Yeah~~Found it in : https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B7D...XJDbzF2TFV2RXc

You can also see the link in the page : http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/2260-lenovo-y580-y480-unlocked-bios-versions-15.html

PS svl7 : I've flashed the bios with my V2.07 mainboard, it seems that the service tags and serial numbers won't be taken into the mainboard after the flashing. Only the Bios Version will be changed from V2.07 to V8.01

I would like to downgrade to V2.07 only to verify one thing: My battery volume changed to 62 Wh after I flashed the V8.01 and it was 72Wh while in V2.07.It is not chargeable or caused by the wear.

I just doubt if the V8.01 also flashed the firmware of the battery,I don't know,so I have to go back to V2.07 to verify it.

Thanks for providing me the V2.07.

Just flashed it with success, thanks!

If I will do this I will change wifi card for a Atheros AR9280 and everything will be ok?

Your question can be answered by reading the first, and if that's not clear enough you could also search this thread's posts.

But, to answer your question, if you're asking about slv's v2.07 / v8.01 / v8.02 modded BIOS on the first page, then you would be alright. That is, if you flash it properly and flash the one with the whitelists removed (which is all but one I think).

It has to do with the type of bios it is (insyde) and not necessarily Y580. However, it's been mentioned throughout Lenovo's support forums as well as the experience of others in terms of bios recovery.

Your windows licenses, service tags and serial numbers are also part of this data... just saying.

In that case, do you know of where I can get v8.01 original bios, one without the EC? I've googled so much and just can't find a legit one. Perhaps the one your mod was based on?

Dear

Would anyone whose Y580 is running the V2.07 bios version help export the single Bios (4.5M ,not the 6M one with the EC also inside).

I am now running with the EC V2.07 and Bios V8.01. I want to only downgrade the Bios part from V8.01 to V2.07.

Your help will be appreciated.

Do you think you could upload the 4.5 Mb version of the v8.01 bios so that I can flash that (like I posted/talked to you about in the main unlocked bios thread ). In return, I think I could help you with what you need here, but, I'll need you to tell me how to do that. To clarify, you want someone who is running 2.07 bios to export it without the EC part? I'm running slv's modded bios, that's the one you want, right? If so, I think we can arrange a trade of tiles here

Nothing is supposed to come up on the screen when you start it with the keys pressed, or at least mine didn't. The light on my USB also didn't turn on when I started the laptop, but after 2-3 min it lit up, at which point I released fn+b and let it do its thing, I don't really remember if mine rebooted itself since I went outside for a smoke after I stopped holding fb+b. Were the fans still blowing full speed after it reboot itself or was it nonresponsive (screen black, fans off)?

EC = Embedded Controler = firmware (i think... 95% sure)

MC = the actual BIOS

When you flash slv's modded bios, that is EC + MC

Did you flash the modded bios using the instructions in the OP verbatim? I know some people bricked their laptops trying to use the 8.01, maybe try the 8.00 this time?

EDIT: When I (semi) bricked my laptop (flashed 8.01 modded from 2.07 modded), my screen didn't come on either. The fan would (quietly) start for 1-2 seconds and then shut off. The backlight on my keyboard would stay on and then nothing from there. Initially when I tried to do bios recovery. I was just shutting it off, and holding fn+b (this key combination is specific to your laptop, most Y580s have the same combination, some don't) and that didn't yield any results. Then I read somewhere (can't remember where) that the proper procedure is:

*Shut off laptop

*Remove power cable

*Remove Battery

*Plug USB in

*Hold power button for 10 seconds

*Press and HOLD Fn +B (whatever your key combination is)

*Plug power cable in

---- DONT RELEASE FN+B YET ----

*Press the power button and continue to hold fn+b, if the key combination is correct, the fan should start at full speed.

*Wait until laptop shuts down, or restarts by itself

*If it shuts down, plug battery back in, and remove USB, then power on and pray for your BIOS to be recovered to the one from your USB

The key part I missed when I tried it from before was to unplug the AC adapter and and plug it in while holding the recovery key combination.

Did you try bios recovery? Meaning, format a USB to FAT or FAT32, put the bios you want to recover with (modded, or official) and hold fn+b / fn+r / fn+windows / whatever the combination if right for your laptop. The file name also has to be correct and is sometimes different, such as mine is QIWY3 but someone else who has the same laptop and stock bios version as me could have a filename QIWY or QIWY2. That aside, the short flashing steps nicholas0444 posted is for those who have a stock bios v2.07. Meaning, when they bought their laptop, unmodified, their bios version is 2.07.

Since you say your bios is 8.00, that probably means you have Windows 8 and should just follow the guide in the first post, unless that's what caused you to brick your laptop and in which case you should thoroughly read/search the thread to see what others with stock v8.0 bios did.

You seem to have a good, working procedure at your disposal. Could you please, for everyone on the forum, write a step-by-step guide?

He already did a few posts back.

My Y580 was with the factory bios version of V2.0x and I updated to Syl7's V2.07 GPU Overlocked and no whitelist at first time while it was released.

Then I saw a version of 5DCN87WW on another Chinese Forum and flashed it smoothly,but this version is not a unlocked nor whitelist removed version.So I wanted to swith back to the V2.07 mod version.It went well during the downgrade to V2.07.However the MC version is missing and there is only the EC version V2.07 after the flashing.

Then I just tried to only flash the MC to V8.01 using the 4.5M's file version,it works again.Now the MC is V8.01(Locked) and EC V2.07.

The last step is to flash the V8.01 to unlocked version following Syl7's procedure.Succeeded again.

So I just want to share with you the sequence about how I finish this unexpected job by accident.

V2.07(Origin)--->V2.07(Mod)--->5DCN87WW(Beta version)--->V2.07(Mod)--->V8.01(Origin)+V2.07(Origin)--->V8.01(Mod)+V2.07(Origin)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]9399[/ATTACH]

Yes,the v8.01 is from the first post of this topic and the V8.01 original is from someone who uploaded to the google drive long time ago(maybe half a year? I don't remember),So you can flash the 4.5MB V8.01 original first,(Your bios version will turn into V8.01 and EC version still V2.07),then you can just follow slv7's instruction in the first post to finish the rest of the parts.

BTW；All of the flashing I mention should be done in the DOS,Please be aware of that.

Do you have a link to the original 8.01, or would you be willing to upload it? If not, I'll just google it some more.

Also, by flashing via DOS, I'm assuming you mean the fpt.exe (as described in slv's 8.0x bios mod instructions)?

EDIT2: http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/20223-Remove-whitelist-check-add-ID-s-to-break-hardware-restrictions-mod-requests?p=713108&viewfull=1#post713108

Bios Version: 5DCN90WW(V8.01)

BIOS Download: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/88257820/QIWY3207.ROM DOES NOT CONTAIN EC

This is what I need and was looking for right?

Hi,

The Bios contains two parts: Origin Bios and EC Bios, Once you want to flash the bios,you have to flash both of them.

But my problem is that after flashing the beta version, it turns into a locked and whitelist version, then I tried to flash back to V2.07(Mod),but the Bios version is missing after the flashing,I can only see the EC version is V.207.

So I'd just flashed the orign V8.01(4.5MB) then flashed slv7's unlocked version (Also 4.5MB).

But where can I get the v8.01 original?

I just recently tried to flash slv's v8.00 modded bios over the 2.07 modded bios..... That didn't work out so well and semi bricked my laptop, so I managed to recover to the official 2.07 (on Lenovo site), then flashed the 2.07 again (back to square one).

And THEN, literally less than 2 hrs ago, I flashed the 5DCN87WW (Beta) and had some trouble booting into the OS (Windows 8.1) so after trying to fn+r recover with 2.07 (tried both original and slv's) and failing, I managed to boot into windows after trying different combinations for the settings (change UEFI to legacy).

So, my questions is what files did you flash and what did you do in order to flash them (e.g. how do I flash v8.01 original and where do I get it from)? Please try to explain it to me like I'm 5 (if you're willing to help )

EDIT: Wait a second.. is the v8.01 (orig) the attachment in the first post, and then the v8.01 (mod) is the "v801Fix" ? I think I'm wrong but thought I'd give it a shot.

Which Y580s came with the 5DCN89WW (v8.00) bios and which came with the 5DCN89WW (v8.01) bios? I think my problem might have to do with that. Can anyone figure out which bios mine came with (P/N is 59359510)? I can't remember what bios mine came with, because I don't know where the backup went, and I flashed it back in March.

I've read in other paces people having the same issues with Crucial mSATAs with similarly equipped Y580s, so I'm thinking it may not be a faulty hardware issues. At least I hope not!

Thanks!

I've read nearly this whole thread (hopefully retained it all), and I think the ones which came with windows 8 preinstalled have v8.00 OEM BIOS and ones with windows 8.1 have v8.01 OEM BIOS. I may wrong but that's what'd be logical and I think I read that somewhere. But then again, this is from Lenovo, so not a lot of things may seem logical, that's just my two cents.

My Y580 was with the factory bios version of V2.0x and I updated to Syl7's V2.07 GPU Overlocked and no whitelist at first time while it was released.

Then I saw a version of 5DCN87WW on another Chinese Forum and flashed it smoothly,but this version is not a unlocked nor whitelist removed version.So I wanted to swith back to the V2.07 mod version.It went well during the downgrade to V2.07.However the MC version is missing and there is only the EC version V2.07 after the flashing.

Then I just tried to only flash the MC to V8.01 using the 4.5M's file version,it works again.Now the MC is V8.01(Locked) and EC V2.07.

The last step is to flash the V8.01 to unlocked version following Syl7's procedure.Succeeded again.

So I just want to share with you the sequence about how I finish this unexpected job by accident.

V2.07(Origin)--->V2.07(Mod)--->5DCN87WW(Beta version)--->V2.07(Mod)--->V8.01(Origin)+V2.07(Origin)--->V8.01(Mod)+V2.07(Origin)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]9399[/ATTACH]

What do you mean when you say you flash from 2.07 (Mod) to 8.01 (Origin) + 2.07 (Origin)? How do you flash 2 bios at the same time o.O

Also, what's the difference between 5DCN87WW(Beta version), V8.01 (Origin), and V8.01 (Mod)? and where can I download the v8.01 (Origin)?

i repasted my gpu and cpu today with some thermal compound i used for my xbox 360 reflow days. needless to say my temperates have went up to 90 and as far as 93 when playing dmc 5 maxed out on ultra. i'd see it hit 89 regularly before but rarely 91. not sure what's the problem. the fan is also blowing out hotter air.

Forgive me if I'm stating the obvious but did you make sure to:

-- Clean the old paste thoroughly both on the die, and the heat sink

-- Not to apply too much paste but only enough to add a thin layer over the die, and only on the cpu and gpu

-- Clean the fan dust with duster to (temporarily) prevent further dust from accumulating

-- Try to take off the bottom cover and/or elevate the laptop slightly

If you did those, then maybe there might be something wrong with the paste you used or the environment the laptop is in. What thermal paste did you use (I use arctic silver 5)?

If you think you've covered all your bases then I'm not sure what to tell you, there might be something wrong with your cpu, gpu (I don't think you can actually replace the gpu because it might be soldered in or an actual part of the mobo), motherboard or heat sink. What I'd do in your situation is buy replacement parts on ebay (that allow returns) one by one (or all together) and replace the parts one at a time to determine which is the trouble part, and then return the parts that were fine.

If THAT doesn't work then try and look for "Lenovo Y580 repair services" since you void the warranty when you break the sticker on that one screw on the mobo.

Good luck.

I got to the part where I have to remove the keyboard. I don't know if it's the same for you guys but it's really hard for me to remove the damn thing. Is there a way to crack that baby open easily? I gave up on the bezel removal and put back the keyboard and everything. Then the freaking laptop just won't boot. I turned it on and there was just black screen. At the end I had to bring it to a service to get it fixed. Turns out there's a cable beneath the keyboard that I didn't successfully connect back. Could someone please explain those parts with a bit more details? I really want to reapply the paste and also give a good clean to the fan. Thanks.

When you've removed all the screws, including the middle two (keyboard) ones, open the lid. Then you want to find something small and flat, if you care about your laptop cosmetically, i would suggest using a "care opener" they're flat, plastic tools and slightly curved, using this will reduce the chances of scratches. I personally use a flat-head screwdriver (the scratches aren't all that bad on mine).

What you want to do when you take out the keyboard is take your flat tool of choice, and choose one of the clips to start with (either the: right most, or left most clip on the top side, the top most clip on the left, or right side; in my experience, the top clip on the right side is the easiest). They're hard to spot since they're underneath. What I usually do is (very) gently pry the keyboard up to figure out where the first one is and once you know where the first one is, use your tool to push it directly down. Then, when you're sure you've pushed the clip all the way inside, lift the keyboard so that the clip does not re-open (maybe use your fingers?) and then do the same for the next closest clip in the next closest side (e,g, if you started at the top clip on the right side, do the right clip on the top side next); this way you're able to lift a corner, and then the rest of the clips become visible. Once you've practically removed the keyboard, do not pull hard to remove the keyboard. there will be two ribbon cables underneath, one wide one on the left, and one small one on the right.

I'm planning on making a video on dismantling the y580 since, I don't think pictures alone can prepare you for taking it apart while keeping damage to a minimum (for those who don't regularly open up laptops )

Hope that helps!

The core temps are hitting 90 at full load with prime95, this causes the cores to throttle.

I don't use my laptop as desktop replacement, so a cooling pad is no option.

Any idea what full load temps could be after repasting?

There are other, more portable, laptop coolers you could get. Also, cooling pad or not, removing the bottom cover can make a huge difference. As far as how much the temperature will drop from (a good) repasting, it could vary depending on how well/poorly your laptop was originally pasted, but I'd say on average, people see 7-15 difference, possibly more in your case because it looks like lenovo did a poor job applying thermal paste, Just make sure you don't apply too much, read the previous posts from slv talking about the purpose and how much paste you need to use. It might be a good idea to do a test run e.g. apply paste, screw in the heat sink, then unscrew it again to see how well you applied it. A good pasting looks like a thin layer with no bubbles spread all across the cpu or gpu.