DiveDr

Okay so discouraged with my results I decided to scrub down and reapply the Phobya NanoGrease Extreme one more time. I went with the "Pea in Center" method as it gave the best results in previous applications. This time going with the less is more approach I applied smaller dollops of the TIM in fact very small. After 24 hours curing and several power cycles I now see temps of 49-50 C on the CPU at idle and about 50 C on the GPU idle. On load things get hot with both GPU and CPU at full load temps creep north of 80 C after about 15 min with an ambient temp of about 22 C. This is about what I had with IC Diamond and AS5 after curing. Of all these high end TIMs I don't see any significant "real world" difference. So at $3.00 US for a tube of AS5, $7.00 US for IC Diamond and $14.00 US for the Phobya NGE I will go with economy as the deciding factor in this equation. As always YMMV! Hope this comparison is of some help to all.

Prema, Any chance at a modded bios for my ASUS M860TU? Would need the actual ASUS SLIC BIOS, if not I understand. Thanks!

So, got a tube of NanoGrease extreme, cleaned and applied the new TIM in the M860TU. Tried all three aplication methods Pea in center, Line down the middle and plastic spatula spread. Of the three the best result was from the Pea in Center application method. The temps are unfortunately no better than AS5. 50-55 at idle 70+ on full prolonged load. So far not impressed with Phobya NanoGrease Extreme...

Suoah, Are you referring to this stuff: Phobya HeGrease Extreme 3.5g Thermal Comound / Paste at Xoxide! I was looking at this and wondering if it was any good, any experience with this? Thanks

Hello to all, Thinking of a Clevo P157SM-A barebone chassis for my next laptop. I usually do the assembly myself sourcing CPU, HD and memory at better prices than the usual resellers provide. A few questions for friends on the forum: Anyone have one of these jewels and if so what are your thoughts? I was considering a Clevo P150SM-A as an alternative, it is much cheaper can anybody elaborate as to the difference between these two chassis? Looking at the assembly depicted in the service manual (thank you Prema!) it's a bit involved, anyone worked on/assembled one of these? I am not sure about the reference in the service manual to the memory configurations. It states that the main two memory modules are used in a dual core situation and that the third and fourth memory modules located under the keyboard are only used in a quad core deployment. Does that mean if one were to go with a quad core CPU such as a core i7 and for arguments sake eight gigs of RAM the best memory configuration would be four 2 GB modules populating all of the slots or would two 4 GB modules suffice without incurring a performance that permit. I'm not sure how the memory controller works on this motherboard, how many channels the memory bus is arranged with respect to pipelines to the CPU. Anybody who could clarify,, clarification would be greatly appreciated. Last and probably most important question what kind of bios does this animal eat and how difficult is it to modify? Thanks in advance for any information, help and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Best regards to all

Copper costs money and that's why DELL didn't make the radiator taller! Curious what thermal compound is on the heatsink to GPU? You might want to remove it and go with Arctic Silver 5 or IC Diamond although the latter in my experience can cause etching on exposed dies. Good luck!

exabyte407, The V4-CT128V4SSD2 is an older model crucial SSD. There have been reported issues with this series SSD freezing on the crucial forums. If you search there you may find some useful information. It has been my experience in the past with the crucial M4 series that they are prone to hanging with prolonged data writes and this is related to "garbage collection" issues when the drive is not left idle for a long enough period of time to complete a garbage collection cycle. Power cycling the drive sometimes can resolve this issue. This can be done by plugging the solid-state drive into a desktop with the power connector only connected not the SATA controller data connector. Leave the drive powered on in the desktop for a period of at least 24 hours to let it completely cycle and allow the controller to perform garbage collection on the chip sets. This sometimes will restore a crucial drive to normal performance but your mileage may vary. I can document that this procedure worked well on two M4 drives which I no longer use in laptop situations as in that configuration the drive rarely has time enough to sit idle for an appropriate garbage collection cycle to complete. This appears to be an issue with crucial drives, I have not experienced any of these issues with Samsung, Intel or the enterprise micron products. Hope this helps and best regards.

you might want to try looking at this link: CLEVO - Download select the P150SM-A or the P15xSM-A depending on the choice available, that should get you to the driver's that you need. Best regards

xxblazerxx1, These laptops have only one integrated cooler for the CPU and GPU. It has been my extensive experience in the past whenever the CPU cooler and GPU cooler are the same and both the CPU and GPU are called upon to throttle heat becomes an issue. Heat over prolonged periods of time causes component failure. If you are really looking for something that is going to provide a high level of performance in a laptop there should be a dedicated and separate heat sink and fan for the GPU and CPU. Although significantly more money the Clevo P150SM-A will probably serve your purpose better. We will run cooler for extended periods of time which has been added benefit of in general less component failure or at least less premature component failure. Remember in general the light that burns twice as bright lasts half as long. Hope that helps.

Hello to all, I recently had occasion to disassemble my M860tu in order to replace component. This required removal of the CPU and GPU heatsinks. When I initially assembled the laptop sometime in 2009 IC diamond was all the rage and as such this is the thermal compound I went with. On removal of the heatsink and cleaning the CPU etching of the die from the diamond thermal compound was significant. This does not appear to have damaged the cores however in reassembling the laptop I went with Arctic Silver 5 and have noticed no significant changes in CPU core or GPU core temperatures (Using real temp GT to monitor) they hover around 49°C on Idle and can reach as much as 78°C on full sustained load. There appears to be no difference with respect to heat dissipation of the two compounds. Perhaps IC diamond is best reserved for desktops where the actual die is not exposed and a thicker layer of thermal interface material is required. I will likely be assembling a new system in the not-too-distant future probably core I seven based also probably another Clevo chassis. Any comments Or suggestions from the forum with respect to the best thermal compound to utilize for this project? Best regards to all.

Hello to all, I am the proud owner of a Clevo M 860 eTU which has served me well since somewhere around September of 2009. Although some may say the system is looking a bit long in the tooth it still turns out a window seven performance rating of 6.9 which for my purposes is more than acceptable. I recently began to experience some deterioration in the performance of the system. The system date would not maintain itself and some bios settings were not being retained. After troubleshooting the system the culprit was found to be a failing CMOS battery. Changing the CMOS battery in this laptop proved an extensive task. It required an almost complete disassembly and removal of the cover of the laptop to access the CMOS battery. One should also be aware that this particular model has the battery glued directly to the main board with a two wire Molex connector the leads of which are spot welded to a CR 2032 3V lithium cell which is ensconced in insulating heat shrink wrap. The Clevo service manual does not describe the procedure for replacing the battery. The nearest procedure described is one to access the modem, the battery is directly adjacent to the modem underneath the top cover of the laptop. If you should decide to undertake this task be prepared to gently pry the CMOS battery from the main board with a small plastic knife or other nonconducting implement so as not to damage the tracings on the mainboard. You will also need to replace the battery with a similar unit (leads and Molex connector attached) or as I did gently pry the leads off the original battery and reattach them to the new battery utilizing epoxy resin to hold the leads in place and heat shrink wrap to insulate the battery and connections from the motherboard. To glue the battery back in place I recommend nonconducting silicon aquarium adhesive. If anybody needs the service manual which details the disassembly instructions to get to the modem (in this case the battery) PM me and I will post it for you. Hope this is of benefit and best regards to all.