HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL

updated like two thinks read temps and PM me and send me your results with current TIM after that I will mail you HS TIM in 2 business days

hey guys i would like to use XM chips because they give us the most amount of room to test adding more power and voltage if it works. Also most systems with XM chips have better cooling and give a room look at performance. I would love to try thought the clevo netbook with 3610 and 650 since it runs super hot. Also if you got an interesting situation i would love to test it. I also got my fujifilm pressure paper so I can start testing. Sorry for being so flaky...fell super behind and failing managerial account lol so been busy trying to learn it. I took financial accounting like 3.5 years ago online while away and i don't remember a damn thing of it and one chapter required all the basis of financial accounting so i fell super far behind. I don't think anyone here PMed me agree to do testing with mailing me an address. I'll start mailing this week because i'll have time and i'll change a few things up. I want to do a test of prime95/F@H and a test of intel burntest. Intel burn test is nuts but it is inconsistent with power draw so i would like to do both tests for comparison.

currently at post 11 so got still some catching up to do. i got exams all this week so sorry for being slow. I just got some more pressure paper in and trying to figure out where i can get it analyzed. Also for testing we will use intel burn test.....holy crap that eats your CPU up. F@H gets me 55-60ws and intel burn test gets me to 60-67watts and added 10-15C O.o

sorry got bad migraine...for some reason i never noticed people replying in here....so my bad i'll read and reply to everything tomorrow sorry for being absent lol...thought this thread was dead

i like to think i am very well read on power and stuff but i would have never guessed this would have worked lol....for several reason but i guess i would be wrong...and thats a good thing ^-^

if it is considered a highend paste cool just state verbatim what i posted and your in. Just a sign you agree and everyone else sees you agree so it is clear..plus if you gaf it off or steal the material and run with no testing you live in shame for ever!!!!

you live in the states i'll pay for shipping just do the pre testing with ICD and i'll mail you one after you finish and post that. I'll have an example of what I want everything to look like the latest monday. So feel free and start testing. I am looking for burn tests with max clock at sustainable temps like 80-90sC. I don't need you to fry your chip just want to get best case scenario tests. I should have exampled it well enough so check out the terms and agreements Just post in thread with this response so I know you agree to everything and we can get started and i'll add you to the list and send once you complete pretesting

bump updated

UPDATED: I made a form for everyone to fill out so I do not have to try to find all the info over 4 different PMs and 4 different emails. This will streamline the process so I can see everything in 1 email and send you samples as fast as possible! Everything you need to do is in Requirements spoiler. I have made this now as easy as possible for both parties. Also check the document section for all the important info on how to apply Heat-Spring(still working on this one. I did find all my photos. Just going to put it in a word file) and how to use and read data on Prescale pressure paper. I also added a checklist in a word file to make it as easy as possible. I also added privacy info on bottom of page All of the testing and it's data will be submitted to Indium Corporation since they are giving us few samples to get started with. I want this is be as scientific as possible with as little margin of error. I want these results to be accurate so I will create a how to apply (TIM) and further instructions on what is expected so we are all turning in results that are consistent, factual, and impartial. Background I have been talking to Jim at Indium Corporation about buying an extremely small batch of TIMs about 10 to test in several models of laptops but after talking to him he is going to give us SOME FREE SAMPLES!!! I am looking for XM chip owners that can overvolt and overclock that use ICD or anything that is considered one of the best TIMs on market. I want to compare the performance when idling and burn test like Intel burn test and F@H. I will elaborate on what is expected below. Also I want to try these TIMs in ultrabooks that are known to run hot. I need experienced users that are willing to log and take detailed notes and turn them into spread sheets. I will mail the TIMs if I pick you for testing. These TIMs are extremely expensive so please be careful with them. I won't be able to afford to buy more/get more free samples. They range from $2.5-$15 apiece for small batches depending on size. So please do not waste Indium Corporations money or mine if I pick you. Even though Indium Corporation is giving us free samples I am still spending probably $100-200 shipping them to everyone. Also I WILL be trying 2-4 desktops. The 2-4 desktops that I want to try are the 3930K and 3960X. I want to use these because they have the most heat production and are best ones to do an extreme test on them. The hotter it runs the better for the test. The difference between a 4.5w m/k and a 87w m/k is little when you are working with below 60C or at least from my experience with TIMs. It is ~$15 dollars for a single 2x2 piece with an order of 300 dollars (20 pieces) so I don’t want to waste a single piece. The people I am looking for are: 3930K and 3960X owners (2-4 pieces) 9xx XM 29xx XM and 39xx XM owners (20-40 pieces) People with ultrabooks that run hot ASUS Prime? Sager 3610QM and such. (5-10 pieces) Note I am putting my money on that only people will experience enough of a difference to justify the cost are those with ultrabooks that have poor cooling and those with XM chips that are pushing extreme temps but we will see AKA anyone above 60C should see a noticeable difference...at least that is my guess. I tested this in my netbook and it was a bust because of the crap heatsink. I know it won't work if you have bad contact and low pressure. I tried some pressure paper and it didn't even read lol. Word "Heat-Spring Checklist" file. Basically everything below but in a very easy to follow checklist. Feel free and print it off if that is easier for you. Details of requirements to get in on free samples. 1. You send me "Heat Spring Application Form". Name it as "Heat Spring Application Form Username" Example, "Heat Spring Application Form HopelesslyFaithful" 2. You must pay for shipping if you are out of the United States. (Canada/Mexico will be considered case by case depending on costs to ship.) 3. You have to have said chips or a special interesting situation to try it 4. You have to be willing to overclock to the max with voltage increases. (looking for people who are able to push 80-100C in system) 5. Collect detailed temps and max temps, clocks, and voltages with current TIM and post HWinfo CSV file (ambient temps are a plus but not required. A general idea would be nice.) 6. Collect the exact same detailed temps and max temps, clocks, and voltages with Heat-Spring TIM and post HWinfo CSV file. 7. If effective push clocks and voltages to new max level with Heat-Spring TIM and post HWinfo CSV file. -The point of 5, 6, and 7 is to see how much the temps drop and then see how much more speed you can get until you hit old temps. 8. I will do for you….but I would like if you did it because it would save me a lot of time. Create a single graph comparing results. Optional 9. Run F@H when not using computer to monitor long term temps and see how well it works and lasts and post HWinfo CSV file -The point of this is to see how well Heat-Spring TIM holds over long term. This TIM should never have to be replaced. 10. I will complete on my own with my samples. I will be testing how well the material works with reusing it. As long as you don't crinkle/fold it. You should be able to reapply it. The material is a very fine sheet. It should stick to your copper heatsink...maybe permanently. As in you have to lightly scrape it off-indium diffuses with copper. Heat-Spring has a special coating to prevent this but it still sticks from what I have been told/understand. 11. I will do on my own which is make a complete graph comparing all results. 12. Take pictures and detailed notes of system specs and cooling system. I want to know what systems it was in and how it performed. I will have data accessible for each test for review and for combined results. If you can make a Power Point type show on your laptop that would be great! 13.I would like everyone to make a Power Point slide show of your system with results. I posted an example of my netbook so follow that. I'll make a new one with my other systems that'll give you a better idea later. HWinfo tutorial requirements Remember use file naming format listed below in spoiler.-* denotes 100% mandatory. What I want to be recorded is a separate .csv file that has 5 mins of idle with current TIM and Heat-Spring.* What I want to be recorded is a separate .csv file that has 1-4 week of usage with with current TIM and Heat-Spring. (I would like people to do long term test with both but if you refuse to do so let me know. We will work something out.) What I want to be recorded is a separate .csv file that has minimum of 15-60 mins of burn testing using Intel burn test and F@H with current TIM and Heat-Spring.* What I want to be recorded is a separate .csv file that has 5 mins of idle with Heat-Spring using new max clocks and voltages if Heat-Spring is effective.* What I want to be recorded is a separate .csv file that has minimum of 15-60 mins of burn testing using Intel burn test and F@H with Heat-Spring using new max clocks and voltages if Heat-Spring is effective.* I want idles, burn test, and long term tests done before I mail you samples. Along with PPS or something put together with description/pics of machine and cooling system.* Also note I changed it. I want burn tests with F@H/Prime95 which ever you can do and Intel Burn test. Intel burn test destroys CPUs and is a great test but not 100% consistent, which is why I want both. Now if you are running 80C+ with Prime/F@H do not do Intel Burn test because you will hit TJMax! Test it with Heat-Spring after you change it if it works. **Also when I say make at least 15 min run please make sure its at least 15 mins at max temp. It can take a computer a good 5-10 mins depending on ambient temps and cooling system to reach "max temps" so i need a good 15 mins at max temps to make a good graph for comparision. I just wanted to clarify that because i had to have someone remake a log because it was not consistent. Thanks and hope this clears everything up!** Required Documents to be Filled out: "Heat Spring Application Form HopelesslyFaithful"-example "Heat Spring Application Form"-blank HWinfo tutorial THANKS to STiHiaL!!!!-minor edits by myself HWinfo logging to file with format .CSV which can be read with Microsoft Excel, and maybe it can be read with similar program like Openoffice/Libreoffice. Unclaimed data can be deleted or hidden. 1. You need to download HWInfo (HWiNFO, HWiNFO32 & HWiNFO64 - Hardware Information and Analysis Tools) 2. Starting HWInfo and opening Sensors screen: 3. Configuring Scan Interval (changing value in ms / 1000 ms = 1 s) and Sensors Display (while disabling/hiding unneeded sensors) Set recording to 2 second intervals so 2,000ms. Record everything because for me when I disable stuff it still records so don't bother disabling anything. It is fairly easy to work with it in excel. 4. Start logging and type the name of logfile 5. Press Stop logging (when you finish logging) to save the logfile. Name file with "USERNAME" "CPU" "TIM" "dates of test".csv Example, "HOPELESSLYFAITHFUL 920XM ICD 20120901 20121001.csv" Myself and anyone else who is going to help will turn log files to charts/graphs What is Heat-Spring? It is a TIM from Indium Corporation. It is made out of Indium and has a thermal conductivity of 87w m/k from what I have read and been told. It comes as a thin sheet and is very malleable. I will update further later and provide as much data as I have. Most is from Indium Corporation since they are one of the only companies that test and make stuff with it. Pros: High thermal conductivity - 87w m/k. 19 times higher than ICD. 10 times higher than MX-4. 10 times better than AS-5 (AS-5 is 8.7w m/k????? better than ICD and equal to MX-4????) Very low thermal resistance 40PSI+ (highly dependent on pressure will include image later. Image is in page 1-3 of thread) Reusable - it "should" stick to copper heatsink after applied and burned in. Gives the ability to switch out CPUs and other benefits like saved time because you do not need to reapply. Durability - It has showed in other tests to have virtually no loss in thermal resistance and thermal conductivity after long term use. Which means in the laptop and computer industry apply once and forget. This is largely do to from my understand that it is just pure Indium and a sheet of TIM not a paste so no worries of drying out or air bubbles. ???? ???? Cons: Expensive Delicate - if it gets folded it will stick together and be unusable and (easy to tear???) Conductive - not a big deal because there is no dripping or run off since it is a solid piece Custom size - You have to order or cut to the exact size of CPU which may lead to waste if not taken into account. ??? If you know of a pro and/or con please PM or post and I'll add and double check it. Die sizes/IHS size: 9xxXM - .5x.875" (1/2x7/8") 29xxXM - 12 x 24mm??? 39xxXM - 10 x 22mm??? 39xxK/X - 38mmx38mm (1.5x1.5") Still need testers!!!-I have already mailed two sets of samples out but still have plenty left! Current Testers: This list is not guaranteed until I finish the list of requirements and instructions and everyone agrees to it. So keep that in mind and still apply. I will be picking the most qualified people. People in US are preferred due to shipping costs. If you live in another country and want to pay shipping let me know we can work it out. I think I am getting enough pieces for 2-4 desktops and 20-40 laptops. Apu71 (3610QM and 680m Sager NP9150) Myself (920XM and 3720qm) Reborn (920xm and 2 2920xm?) ???? ???? ???? ???? ???? ???? ???? ???? ???? People who said they want to but have not gotten back to me with address and test logs eKretz (920XM) extide (3930K) STiHiaL (920XM) SVL7???? DR650SE??? Jimbo??? Mobius 1-if repaste with ICD does not get better results than stock TIM UPDATE: on a side note does anyone have a 3770K that has the garbage TIM in it and wants to try Heat-Spring? That might be interesting. Graphs and Documentation Please note all this documentation currently comes from Indium Corporation. It is not independent research or was independent research and is now owned/used by Indium Corporation. Some info down here I find a bit confusing and If anyone can better elaborate on it I would appreciate it! My biggest question/concern is the grease they use....what does 2 or 3 mil mean? How was that test run and how does lets say 3 mil affect bulk thermal resistance? Does 3 mil make it look worse than 1 mil? How does all that apply to TIMs for computers? I want to understand this data to make sure we have a good idea of this info and want to make sure we are not reading charts full of data that is lets say curved to show certain results safety sheet of H-S Prescale Ultra-low Film Documents/Directions https://www.dropbox.com/s/3feb1xjrjxkkdzj/Prescale%20Ultra-low%20film%20documents%2020121110232058.pdf Safety Sheet Dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/s/8jq7ktherljg050/Indium%20Corporation%20safty%20sheet%2020120913130753.pdf Video of Heat-Spring Overview of Indium Corporation's Heat-Spring® Thermal Interface Material Visit this page for all content below and more. Compressible TIM (SMA-TIM) Heat-Spring® - Thermal Interface Materials 1500 hour 90C bake test http://documents.indium.com/qdynamo/download.php?docid=482 Graphs: Glossary I did not know what BLT meant...thought it was a sandwich...haha just kidding. Googled and found out it is Bond Line Thickness. Found this page with tons of terms. If you think there are more terms to add post/PM me and I'll add them. NOMENCLATURE Rcs - Contact resistance between two bare solids RcTIM - Contact resistance of an ideal TIM H - Hardness P - Pressure m - Mean asperity slope kTIM - Thermal conductivity of the TIM kp - Thermal conductivity of particles (fillers) km - Thermal conductivity of the polymer matrix RTIM - Thermal resistance of TIM (same as impedance) BLT - Bond line thickness Rb - Thermal boundary resistance Rc - Contact resistance of TIM DF - Density factor Rjc - Junction to case thermal resistance K - Consistency index in (5) r - Radius of the substrate C - Empirical constant in (7) Rbulk - Bulk thermal resistance Ea - Activation energy A - Acceleration factor G - Shear modulus Refer to document - Storage shear modulus Refer to document - Loss shear modulus Greek - Refer to document. Forum does not support most of the characters. Source-Ravi Prasher http://weble.upc.es/ifsin/Block5/paper_proc7.pdf If you contributed info and helped make this happen please PM me so I can add you to the list of contributors for credit!!! STiHiaL-HWinfo tutorial xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx Archive Note I am getting 9 2x2 samples but if anyone wants to do a large test of 50-100 people please read below! Now if a ton of people want to try this and are willing to chip-in like 5 bucks or so for me to buy 20 2x2 pieces. I am willing to buy a full test kit worth but I need to know if people are willing to send me the few bucks for a full kit. I don't have $300 to fund a full kit....since I am still trying to sell my laptop and jobless. Now if someone buys my laptop...then I won't mind so much forking 300 bucks up for a test kit. So think of it if you buy it you are donating $300-$500 for me to buy a full kit and pay for shipping all the pieces to everyone. Also since I am only able to fork out about 50-100 bucks for samples. If anyone wanted to just chip in a large chunk instead of their one piece that would be cool. I would be willing right now to chip in max 100 bucks if others chipped in 50-100 to reach the ~$300 for a full kit to test. Up to you guys. Privacy Statement I value your privacy very much so I take as many precaution as possible. I will never give out your address or real name. I will sensor everything I submit so that no private information is transferred to anyone. Your real name, address, and paypal accounts are all kept in a truecrypt file container that is triple encrypted so no one can ever get access to it but myself. For all testing charts only your NBR/TI name will be used.

you got a million dollars lol. Jim said he might try getting me a couple samples...i honestly dont have the money to buy 100 .5 inch pieces or 20 2 inch pieces. That is like 300 bucks lol. I am really interested to see how it works as a TIM on the cpu. Though there might be issues with ow it diffuses with copper. Waiting for him to email me back. He will get back to me tomorrow. Also I will be calling him tomorrow too so we can talk over the phone about this. I have learned a ton about this stuff lol @svl7 I obviously wouldn't crush them lol. I would go as high as I could without smush them. I got no clue what pressure they can with stand.

lol nice svl

alright i have been talking to Jim Hisert and this is the method i most likely will use. A very slow one though. I think i have to leave it at 140psi for like 40 days lol Indium Bonding and Indium Cold Welding - Jim Hisert | INDIUM OK so the indium TIM/cold solder doesn't actually bond it I guess. Misunderstood that. Talking to him now about some options on how to apply this and some different methods. Also I am waiting to hear back from him because I may also try using the indium as a TIM for the CPU. I think from what I understand so far that it is a huge improvement of regular thermal compound. Waiting to hear back and then I'll get back to you guys.

god damnit this forum is glitchy on opera. What are you saying? You mean where the water block can just pop on and off? I personally rather have it screwed in for maximum pressure for thermal transfer and secured well. I honestly dont move my laptop ever so i rather have it screwed in. Even with it screwed in it honestly can't take more than 60 seconds to unscrew 4 screws. If you come up with a good idea i'll try it out for shits and giggles. Also about whether or not my MOBO can handle the added voltage I still would want to do this anyways to see if it works. I have done everything i can to cool it by air and there are maybe 1 or 2 different things that I can do to optimize airflow but it will be minimal. Even if 3.33 is the max I am fine with that. I barely can run that at 78-85C with AC on. without AC it will burn up. I still want the water cooling anyways so I can run F@H 24/7 at 3.33 with out AC on. I appreciate the advice on trying that first but I would still do this anyways. Plus it would be good to see if this actually works since it'll give a lot of people new ideas that work for cooling their laptop. If that guys water cooling with the water pipes worked i dont see how mine wont work. Mine has 10 times the amount of contact and a much better application. Also if you can think of a way to mount the water block to the die itself i am all ears but i dont know how it can be done without some serious modifications to the case.

yes i solder the copper slab to the heatsink and mount the waterblock to the copper slab. I dont want to use lead because its hazardous. so if i am not going to use lead than i might as use something good. Again i would like to use that one solder but i question if i can find it. EDIT: Also if you know of a good solder that is not brittle and does not have lead i am all ears and willing to go read up on it. The tin/silver is brittle from what i read so i assume that is out of the picture because i dont want to ahve to worry about that. Also i think this will work because that video of what that guy did supposedly worked and he use used a small thin copper pipe for water cooling. he had minimal contact on the heat pipe and it worked for him from what i heard so i dont see how this wont work. I do wonder how effective it will be but it is worth a shot. Several people say the soldering will be very hard...i think it wont be too difficult because two people will be working on it at once. So i will have 4 hands. Also i have never soldered before but my dad has. I also plan on having at least two test samples to try first before we do the real thing.

it wont be contacting the cpu chip directly because there is no way to mount it....even if i could the threads on the laptop wouldnt be able to support it. I honestly dont see how it wont help if it is not directly on the cpu die. It is mounted to the heatpipes above the cpu...that should be good enough to pull a lot of heat. It will be air/water cooled so i dont see how it wont work or do enough. Also how can I test if my MOBO can handle overvolting? With out good enough cooling i can't test it. Also i dont want to use lead solder. The indium/silver has a low melting point and has the best thermal conductivity. I got a couple interesting ideas that I will try when soldering it and i think it'll work. Even if I can't overvolt or overvolt high enough It is worth a shot to see if my design works and how well. it goes laptop heatsink-copper heat pipe-copper slab-waterblock. Not a perfect concept but requires little modification to original heatsink and allows the waterblock to be removed with in a minute and still have the original heatsink to stay on it. Also there is no real good way to mount a water block to the die directly. Plus if water cooler dies i still have air cooling. Somewhat of a fail safe. Also soldering the copper slab will be pretty easy. I have thought out my process of doing it. Plus I'll make a couple test samples to try on first so my dad and I can get the process down.

someone suggested the enzotech one because its forged

sorry for double post but the space and separation is needed. WHAT DO YOU GUY'S THINK I SHOULD USE This is the water blocks i am looking at This has a nice swival feature but i dont like how tall it is. Koolance CHC-125 (MB) Angled Liquid Cooling Chipset Block This is nice and small and not too tall so it would fit nicely but i am not sure how big of a copper slab i'll have to mount yet. I would obviously like the biggest waterblock as in surface area as possible but i dont want to push it. This is small and would definitely fit. Alphacool HF 14 Smart Motion Universal Chipset / GPU Block - Copper Edition This would fit but a little tall but workable. I don't like the cost of it though. It is super expensive. I bet i can find one cheaper but what do you guy's think. Enzotech Stealth CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Sockets 775 / 1366 This is even more expensive but a nice waterblock wouldn't stick out too far but is on the larger size. I need to take the bottom panel out again but it seems like it might be a tight squeeze with ~2.5 inches of space needed. Heatkiller Rev 3.0 1156 CPU Liquid Cooling Block - (14013) This looks like a nice kit and affordable. I don't know what size this water block is or if I can fit any of the other ones from above either. Does anyone know what the dimensions of the water block are? Also what do you think of this kit? I dont want to make my own because that will take a lot of work with getting all the pieces i need plus i dont know what is good and that would be even more of a pain. Also might even cost more. It would be nicer to have a custom built kit from random parts. Would fit in the cooler nicer but I think that is more work than it is worth unless you guy's want to help me build a kit from parts. XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ Free Kill Coil! (ETA - mid-June) - FrozenCPU.com

I use folding at home and run gpu and cpu and i can get 80c(with AC on/90c without AC) with 3.33GHz any higher i get BSOD so i'll see what this does.

i can only get 3.33 before BSOD and 3.33 seems finicky. So i seem to be on the low end of stability. So i hope overvolting helps. If the water cooling works i am going to push 200mv or maybe slightly higher. I want 4 GHz or more lol. We will have to see. I figured out how to solder it..just trying to find a g51j cooling assemble so i dont have to worry about botching my only cooling assembly. If you know someone with one i'll buy it. Also whats the best solder to use. I know silver solder exists so i am planning on using that unless someone knows of a better one. EDIT ok i was looking here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder and i can't find any solder that is high silver/copper based. I dont want to use a lead solder because lead is not thermal conductive. the best looks like the silver/tin solder but that is brittle and i think that will be bad for my use in this. All copper ones are low in copper too. Anyone know of the best solder to use Indalloy 3 looks decent. 90% indium and 10% silver. it has 81.8 W·m−1·K−1 for indium http://www.indium.com/_dynamo/download.php?docid=162 this makes it seem that the melting point varies compared to wikipedia...93C is an issue lol.

whats this intel burntest? can i try it on my 920xm?

anyone have any good ideas on how to make the welded copper make good contact? Do you think that it will have good enough contact to work?

EDIT: I figured out how to install this water cooling kit/mod and i think it will work really well. I need a spare cooling assembly before i go at it so i dont fuck it up. I still need to find one that is quick release and how to solder this...as in whats the best method/solder. Otherwise I think i got it. I still will take more advice though!!! here is my basic blueprint from what u have learned and i honestly think it is a better design than that one the other guy made http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/1363/internalheatsinkandwate.jpg dont get me wrong i could probably make my own mounting brackets and that would work better but i don't want to bother with that. I "think" this will have enough contact to pull heat off but i am not 100% sure. If anyone has any ideas on how to increase contact with soldering please let me know. This will be my first time soldering so i'll probably cut up some spare pieces to try first.I am going to build a laptop cooler that is made to have adjusted fan placement and fit up to a m18x laptop. I am using a g51J-A1 with a 920xm ES chip. So far the highest I can go in a cool room is 3.3GHz and run at 80C. I want to overvolt so I can hit higher clocks but I am limited to temps. I hit 90C if the room is 5-10 degrees Fahrenheit warmer. I am extremely dependent on ambient temps with this current air cooled system. I want to do a similar mod like this guy but I am going to make it better. There are a couple ways he did it that can be improved. I was wondering if anyone knew of a water cooling kit that had quick release connectors like the Zalman Reserator V1. I can't find it anywhere. I don't care if its silent or not. I prefer a non silent one that is smaller...that thing is ridiculously huge. I have a small space to use. Also I would like to build the water cooler inside the laptop cooler if possible. Hence why a smaller fan powered cooler would be better. Also I was wondering if anyone knew of these answers i am looking for: 1.)It looks like he drilled out the base connector and installed two copper pipes to it for more cooling. Did he just solder it or also super clued and soldered or what? How did he make it water tight? Also if he soldered what solder did he use and it that strong enough? Is solder conductive enough for this? I need high thermal conductivity. 2.)As stated up higher is solder conductive enough or strong enough....are there better options? 3.)I need and want a quick release system so than I can take apart and adjust when needed. 4.)What are cooling kits that I can use that will work since I can't find the zalman and on top of that I want a smaller kit....remember I really need a quick release. I assume I can just use any quick release system and make it work like he did with this one. 5.)Also I have a 180w PSU that is the targus/powerlite one. Is 180w psu strong enough if i try to push 4GHz or more? 6.)Also is that thing at 2:07 a custom...umm what do you call it..."water block? EDIT:that wasn't a water block....the only water cooling he does is through the copper pipes. He has the connectors drilled to connect the copper pipes to the water cooler. I got a couple ideas on how to make that better. So is that connect custom made? or taken off of a water cooling block? Do you got any water cooling systems that you recommend that are lower profile that i can modify? I am looking to overvolt this by at least 200mv if i can with this mod. I want to hit 4GHz or more 24/7 Do you got any water cooling systems that you recommend that are lower profile that i can modify? I wonder if i could get this to work...its low profile for the most part http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/heatkiller-1156.html http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/xspc-rasa-750-rs240.html just found this one and this looks good too http://www.amazon.com/OCZ-Technology-OCZTHYDF-HydroFlow-Waterblock/dp/B001HZSGQW/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1339733287&sr=8-18 This one maybe/maybe not...hard to see http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/larkooler-ba2-241.html http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/antec-kuhler.html I could find a way to mount this on the heat pipes...i rather stay off of the mounting on the CPU because i would like to try to make a mobile system. Maybe tomorrow i can go to fry's and see if they have water cooling kits i can see in person. I'll do more googling later to see if i can get better pictures of these. I dont have a lot of time right now. Water cooling mod for laptop. This is a copy paste from NBR of everything I have done so far. Before I only folded with CPU and now added my GPU and i think the temps are too high to have both running. It is either CPU full OC and folding or a medium CPU OC with GPU folding. I dont want to burn out my CPU with doign this 24/7. Funny how my GPU was the overheating problem and now with all the mods and upgraded CPU the CPU is now the problem lol. With CPU at 65 TDP and 260m at 580 1450 950 I am running at 72-75 CPU and 71 GPU. I might look into repositioning my cooling pad to directly blow into my case fan. I have always wanted to build a custom cooling pad but that would be a pain. ABOUT OVERVOLTING GTX 260m ON G51j It is not possible via vBIOS please see this forum thread for an explanation. You can do a hardware mod to overvolt but for experienced people only. (requires soldering parts on) Honestly, not worth it because the card is so old. http://forum.techinferno.com/asus-gaming-notebook-forum/1762-g51j-a1-vbios-its-my-bios-can-someone-help-me.html

ok i'll remake the BSOD when i got some time. I got a g51j and it has no BIOS options

so this mod is how i add more voltage?

you can't overclock the 740qm with multipliers and only FSB...you can only get a few FSB higher...it is a limited CPU. I got the 920xm ES but I can't get higher then 26 26 25 25 with my G51J. Anything higher it gives me a BSOD. Is this CPU unstable or is that the limit? I can get 85TDP/TDC and if I inscrease to 100 and try going higher it BSOD. Is it a voltage issue or a flaky chip? EDIT: If i did this do you think I could maintain 4GHz 24/7 if i have proper cooling? right now i can only maintain 3,332.5 stable and cooling is at 80C if room is cool but i can come up with some more mods to get this to work