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EwinRacing Flash Series Gaming Chairs


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H658tu last won the day on November 5 2018

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  1. Sure, np. Btw, bit late, but @userOK : Clevo systems don't use center pins or any type of adapter whitelisting. Every adapter you hook up will run to its maximum rated draw, so that 330W will do fine without any modification. It's a one-way restriction; the ID chip is read out by the Dell or Apple laptop and, if the ID fails, those systems and only those systems will limit their cpu/gpu to a trickle draw, but it won't throttle the adapter and the adapter won't throttle itself, either. It is a really stupid design, if you take it at face value. Consider a 'smart' faucet that pings the water utility's systems to check whether they're operating at full capacity and then turns itself off simply because there's no reply. You'd have no drinking water because the faulty ID check means it won't let you open the tap. Now, let's say you take a 19V/50W adapter to run a 330W system without an ID-check feature; it'd be perfectly fine! Yes, it'd throttle due to power starvation and that measly adapter will heat up quite a bit, but it won't blow up and neither will the system. The adapter because it is designed to cope with excess loads and the laptop simply because it can't blow up due to lack of juice. Really, the Apple/Dell motive here is to hinder the suppliers of aftermarket adapters and promote sale of 'genuine' replacements.
  2. Dell uses the center pin to identify which adapter is hooked up and without the pin or with a defective one it will throttle down. There's a great guide with all the nitty-gritty here: Hacking the Dell laptop power adapter See 1-Wire on wikipedia for the protocol information (has a snippet on Apple and Dell laptop adapters). Mr. Fox used original 330W adapters and hooked up both of their ID pins to the joined laptop plug, so his mod doesn't have that issue (though he really only needed to hook up one wire). Turns out only the wattage is important and if those 240Ws are Dell models then you might program one of these to 330W instead. Easier might be to score the ID chip from a defective or spare 330W model, but chances to find one would be pretty slim. For both you'd preferably relocate the chip near the DC jack on motherboard instead; that way all adapters will report 330W and the flimsy center pin would become permanently redundant. Have a few 240W Dells as well and don't need them to run Dell systems. I should have sufficient tools to program that chip, so if you like I could make one of them a 330W version. Send a pm if you're interested.
  3. Don't know about the LED behaviour on this model, but you can start the system without using the button. These things work like a small trigger, flipping a relay switch once. With a photo or, better, the schematics it's easy to tell which pins you need to short. Most systems use a separate power button board attached to the mb with a flat ribbon cable and they're a bit annoying to connect all the time when assembling. So if it's just a dry test I don't want to bother and simply short the connector pins on the mb. An adapter showing ~19V does seem like a good indicator, but using only a multimeter that means you're testing a no-load situation (excepting the small load from its 9V battery). If it still has a single working buck converter then that might seem fine and all, but it won't be able to power on the system then. Could try hooking it up to a working system and make certain it's alright,
  4. Your current panel is a 1-channel LVDS, so in theory you could upgrade to a maximum of 1600x900p (bandwidth restriction). Unfortunately, no such panel has been made, so without a cable swap you're limited to a 768p IPS. IPS or TN doesn't depend on the system, it's a purely internal technology. Any of these will do and they're somewhat better than your Samsung, but don't expect miracles: LP125WH2-SLT1 LP125WH2-SLT2 LP125WH2-SLT3 LP125WH2-SLB1 LP125WH2-SLB2 LP125WH2-SLB3 Be careful to order only used panels because if you don't you'll probably receive a compatible model and that could be anything, including the same Samsung you have now or one of the TN LP's form the same series.
  5. Looks like pretty normal behaviour, except for the missing rpm signal. A missing rpm signal ought to result in 100% fan speed as well; this is a designed safety feature. The same could happen due to a disconnected pwm wire; signal=off is a much safer choice than a signal=on type. With both a 'malfunctioning' system would give you a bit of unnecessary noise, but never the risk of thermal issues. Guess you could swap the brown wire to the yellow pin and leave the yellow wire disconnected. This is perfectly safe since the schematics indicate pin #3 (brown) sends the pwm signal to the fan. This would also result in 100% fan speed, but might give an rpm report back. If so then the brown an yellow wires are swapped on this fan and switching them on the connector would give back control plus the rpm signal. Don't think that'll happen though. More likely the fan's defective or its rpm range is outside that of the one expected by the EC. Did you try with HWiNFO and SpeedFan?
  6. Could remove it from the housing, detach the blades and check the fan's pcb. Do the same for the original and you'll know for certain what is the purpose of each pin. Still, if it does have fan control then there's little to be concerned with.
  7. Then you'll probably need a 4-pin fan again. If there's no rpm report then the wires may be swapped, so make sure they match the lay-out of the original. Colours can be verified by looking at the fan's pcb; it'll be labeled there, even if they aren't at the motherboard end. That Sunon won't be removable either; maglevs use sealed bearing and aren't meant to be taken apart. Shouldn't be necessary anyway since oil can be added from the bottom of the pcb. Do make sure that it's a 4-pin though, or check again with the current fan by clipping the pwm pin; if it's still speed-controlled and not running 100% all the time then it's really a voltage-controlled system, regardless of whatever fan is hooked up.
  8. It doesn't really matter; any 5V fan will do as long as it physically fits. Its cable can be re-soldered to fit the plug, in case of a mismatch. Your system uses a voltage-controlled fan, but a pwm type can be turned into one by snipping the pwm wire. To be sure; red=voltage, black=ground and the other one, usually yellow, is tachy (rpm feedback). If it's a 4 or 5-wire cable then it'll be pwm-controled (mostly blue), the 5th will be another ground, which might be found on some of the Dell systems. Of course, the one with the highest cfms will be preferable, but manufacturer ratings have to be taken at face value. So power rating (amps) and overall design might be a better indicator. All other things being equal a squirrel cage model works better. The FCN certainly isn't, while the AVC and Sunon might be, but the housing is obscuring the edge of the fan section. Of all three the AVC will fare most poorly. The blades are far too thick and their weight will hinder the electric motor spinning up. The Sunon has a little less power than the FCN, but it uses a second permanent magnet to lift the rotor away from the stator (blades from base) and will be quieter at the same speeds and might actually push the same amount of air at lower power consumption since it suffers less friction.
  9. That's because it's not an actual rom; there's still padding on that hdr file. Could extract it further, but since you're only interested in the embedded vbios you might as well extract the 1060M's oprom with MMTool. After that TDP Tweaker works fine (just tested it). Flashing the file is another thing. Iirc, direct flashing a vbios with nvflash will no longer work due to the new protection system. Maybe that isn't a problem with oproms though and the afuwin overrides will do the trick. So start MMTool again and use the 'Oprom -> Replace' option to substitute your modified bios. The 1060M's device id is 1C20 (and vendor is 10DE).
  10. A defective mSATA drive is very much a possibility; an ssd will give you no 'tick-tick' warnings as with a head crash on a regular hdd. Install an OS on the regular hdd or use a spare and see whether the system will boot again. Once you've done that use HWiNFO or CrystalDiskInfo and check the SMART values of the mSATA drive. Recovering data from a dead ssd is quite a bit harder than with a hdd, so hope that you've made a backup or that it contains nothing overly critical.
  11. Could try using FPT instead. There's a copy amongst the files already, but it's only used to flash the ME atm; modify the 'x.bat' file by adding '-bios' at the end of the fpt string.
  12. Add '/JBC' to the string (in case it can't detect the battery) and replace the afudos in the package with this older version: AFUDOS v3.07.7z Recall that some reseller's bios versions didn't want to flash over systems of different resellers. Perhaps flashing the stock version resulted in Eurocom's flash to halt. This stock afudos version shouldn't care about that mismatch.
  13. Can you upload the complete package somewhere?
  14. In order to flash the same version (which it is, according to their ids) you have to force flash it, skipping the id check. With afudos it's '/X', so check the parameters of your 'part2.bat' file.
  15. There should be an override switch in the flash program. With afudos it's '/JBC', for example. Simply run the .exe from the command line with '/?' or '-h' to find out the switch for your particular flash tool.
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