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H658tu last won the day on November 5

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About H658tu

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  1. Your current panel is a 1-channel LVDS, so in theory you could upgrade to a maximum of 1600x900p (bandwidth restriction). Unfortunately, no such panel has been made, so without a cable swap you're limited to a 768p IPS. IPS or TN doesn't depend on the system, it's a purely internal technology. Any of these will do and they're somewhat better than your Samsung, but don't expect miracles: LP125WH2-SLT1 LP125WH2-SLT2 LP125WH2-SLT3 LP125WH2-SLB1 LP125WH2-SLB2 LP125WH2-SLB3 Be careful to order only used panels because if you don't you'll probably receive a compatible model and that could be anything, including the same Samsung you have now or one of the TN LP's form the same series.
  2. H658tu

    [Lenovo Y500] What CPU fan is best?

    Looks like pretty normal behaviour, except for the missing rpm signal. A missing rpm signal ought to result in 100% fan speed as well; this is a designed safety feature. The same could happen due to a disconnected pwm wire; signal=off is a much safer choice than a signal=on type. With both a 'malfunctioning' system would give you a bit of unnecessary noise, but never the risk of thermal issues. Guess you could swap the brown wire to the yellow pin and leave the yellow wire disconnected. This is perfectly safe since the schematics indicate pin #3 (brown) sends the pwm signal to the fan. This would also result in 100% fan speed, but might give an rpm report back. If so then the brown an yellow wires are swapped on this fan and switching them on the connector would give back control plus the rpm signal. Don't think that'll happen though. More likely the fan's defective or its rpm range is outside that of the one expected by the EC. Did you try with HWiNFO and SpeedFan?
  3. H658tu

    [Lenovo Y500] What CPU fan is best?

    Could remove it from the housing, detach the blades and check the fan's pcb. Do the same for the original and you'll know for certain what is the purpose of each pin. Still, if it does have fan control then there's little to be concerned with.
  4. H658tu

    [Lenovo Y500] What CPU fan is best?

    Then you'll probably need a 4-pin fan again. If there's no rpm report then the wires may be swapped, so make sure they match the lay-out of the original. Colours can be verified by looking at the fan's pcb; it'll be labeled there, even if they aren't at the motherboard end. That Sunon won't be removable either; maglevs use sealed bearing and aren't meant to be taken apart. Shouldn't be necessary anyway since oil can be added from the bottom of the pcb. Do make sure that it's a 4-pin though, or check again with the current fan by clipping the pwm pin; if it's still speed-controlled and not running 100% all the time then it's really a voltage-controlled system, regardless of whatever fan is hooked up.
  5. H658tu

    [Lenovo Y500] What CPU fan is best?

    It doesn't really matter; any 5V fan will do as long as it physically fits. Its cable can be re-soldered to fit the plug, in case of a mismatch. Your system uses a voltage-controlled fan, but a pwm type can be turned into one by snipping the pwm wire. To be sure; red=voltage, black=ground and the other one, usually yellow, is tachy (rpm feedback). If it's a 4 or 5-wire cable then it'll be pwm-controled (mostly blue), the 5th will be another ground, which might be found on some of the Dell systems. Of course, the one with the highest cfms will be preferable, but manufacturer ratings have to be taken at face value. So power rating (amps) and overall design might be a better indicator. All other things being equal a squirrel cage model works better. The FCN certainly isn't, while the AVC and Sunon might be, but the housing is obscuring the edge of the fan section. Of all three the AVC will fare most poorly. The blades are far too thick and their weight will hinder the electric motor spinning up. The Sunon has a little less power than the FCN, but it uses a second permanent magnet to lift the rotor away from the stator (blades from base) and will be quieter at the same speeds and might actually push the same amount of air at lower power consumption since it suffers less friction.
  6. H658tu

    Dell 7577 BIOS extraction

    That's because it's not an actual rom; there's still padding on that hdr file. Could extract it further, but since you're only interested in the embedded vbios you might as well extract the 1060M's oprom with MMTool. After that TDP Tweaker works fine (just tested it). Flashing the file is another thing. Iirc, direct flashing a vbios with nvflash will no longer work due to the new protection system. Maybe that isn't a problem with oproms though and the afuwin overrides will do the trick. So start MMTool again and use the 'Oprom -> Replace' option to substitute your modified bios. The 1060M's device id is 1C20 (and vendor is 10DE).
  7. A defective mSATA drive is very much a possibility; an ssd will give you no 'tick-tick' warnings as with a head crash on a regular hdd. Install an OS on the regular hdd or use a spare and see whether the system will boot again. Once you've done that use HWiNFO or CrystalDiskInfo and check the SMART values of the mSATA drive. Recovering data from a dead ssd is quite a bit harder than with a hdd, so hope that you've made a backup or that it contains nothing overly critical.
  8. H658tu

    clevo P150EM impossible to flash BIOS

    Could try using FPT instead. There's a copy amongst the files already, but it's only used to flash the ME atm; modify the 'x.bat' file by adding '-bios' at the end of the fpt string.
  9. H658tu

    clevo P150EM impossible to flash BIOS

    Add '/JBC' to the string (in case it can't detect the battery) and replace the afudos in the package with this older version: AFUDOS v3.07.7z Recall that some reseller's bios versions didn't want to flash over systems of different resellers. Perhaps flashing the stock version resulted in Eurocom's flash to halt. This stock afudos version shouldn't care about that mismatch.
  10. H658tu

    clevo P150EM impossible to flash BIOS

    Can you upload the complete package somewhere?
  11. H658tu

    clevo P150EM impossible to flash BIOS

    In order to flash the same version (which it is, according to their ids) you have to force flash it, skipping the id check. With afudos it's '/X', so check the parameters of your 'part2.bat' file.
  12. H658tu

    Bios update and battery!!

    There should be an override switch in the flash program. With afudos it's '/JBC', for example. Simply run the .exe from the command line with '/?' or '-h' to find out the switch for your particular flash tool.
  13. H658tu

    Y510p Bios / EC for EEPROM Programmer

    No, vanilla. Maybe this version will do the trick: Lenovo Y410p, Y510p v3.08 mod.7z
  14. H658tu

    Y510p Bios / EC for EEPROM Programmer

    Here you go: Lenovo Y510p v3.08.7z If you want a different version then please provide a download link. Same thing for the wifi whitelist. And not all systems support ISP, so desoldering may turn out to be necessary after all.
  15. Yes, that or the EC is corrupt. A full bios + ec flash would solve that, something the reset alone will not accomplish.

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