Robbo

Hello

Vbios GTX 670MX Clevo 3Go unlocked overclocking limite

Thx avance

Have you looked on the 2nd post of the 1st page?

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-2960XM Processor,Alienware M17xR3

Graphics Score 10201.....

To the dweller of Twin Peaks, Very Good! :-)

Full speed on battery is not a great idea btw.

Yep, the usable life of the battery will decrease, possibly by a huge amount; for example, the battery might be unusable after a few months perhaps.

I reduced the copper plate without exposing the heatpipes, double pipe cpu htsnk will not cover the die so exposing them will increase the temp difference between cores. Better cover that chip, when stressed it reaches 120C with htsnk contact.

The overclocking potential of this vBIOS with those temps is highly increased only limited by the 240W PSU 780M/XM temporarily...

You had me worried, so I took the cover off the bottom of the laptop & ran Heaven benchmark on it on a loop. I was able to get underneath while it was running & feel how hot the heatsink was getting in various places. The entire heatsink area, both over the mosfets at the top of the card, and over the VRAM was really quiet hot to the touch. I could keep my finger on the heatsink for maybe half a second before I had to remove it. The heat seemed quite uniform over the heatsink, but I don't think it was getting up to 120 degC, because I don't think I would have been able to touch it for so long if that was the case. I think the 670MX runs a bit cooler than the 580M and 680M, so I think the mosfets don't get so hot on this card. I have covered that chip with pads, and when I felt the pads over that chip I could feel the heat, but it wasn't quite as hot as the metal heatsink to the touch (not surprising because metal feels hotter to the touch for any given temperature). But the pads felt hot enough, that I think they are drawing heat away from that chip that we've been talking about. I know it's not as effective as having the heatsink in direct contact with it, but I'm happy with it for now. If the card does fail though, then I'll just blame myself & learn from the mistake for next time I install a GPU!

Also, it's a bit problematical to do that mod you described with the aluminium strip & pads because the ideal gap between the heatsink at that point is suitable for a 1mm pad. If I use an alu strip plus pads on either side too, then it will be too thick for level heatsink contact I think.

Reduced both copper plates, GPU htsnk doesn't need that much reduction and molded the mosfet Fujipoly pads specific size increasing the gaps between them, basically more warm air gaps for better heat dissipation than the htsnk itself and let it rise (lower density)

I will post pics after upgrading the MB...did you use the mosfet AL stripes ?

Ah, I see what you mean about the specifically sized Fujipoly pads. Do you mean you reduced the copper heatsink all the way back to expose the heat pipes directly to the GPU?

When you ask about me using the mosfet AL strips, do you mean did I use that folded piece of aluminium with pads on that chip I was having difficulty covering? I haven't done that yet, I'm relying on my current 'botch' job! If the card fails, then you can just say 'told you so'! I may do that mod you suggested to me with the aluminium strip & pads another time.

Very good temperatures those seem! What kind of mod did you do?

Yes, thanks! I was passing out and posted on the way to bed - ha. I had backed mine up but like all good usb drives, that one went to the thumb drive heaven in the skies shortly after.

Other than bad paste, can a bad gpu cause overheating? I have never really experienced this. (Referring to a NP9370 with SLI 680s. GPU2 is running a whopping 30 degrees hotter than GPU 1 - in games and in benchmarks). I repasted once with the pea method and once with the spread method and yielded the same results. I don't know what else to do rather than to RMA it. But I am open to suggestions! It wasn't overclocked. It has the stock volt "unlocked" vBios installed as does the other card.It has been running fine for months and just randomly I started getting some tearing and lines on the screen - so I started checking temps. If I turn on a bench like Unigine Valley or Heaven, this card will hit 90 degrees with fans on full blast in about a minute! The fans are all operational - but I am running out of ideas.

When I repaste, I use ArctiClean products as well. I was using Tuniq TX-2 for paste. The room I am working in is about 21C. When this card is running at 90 the other card is around 63C. If anyone has a suggestion or something worth trying - I am open to suggestion.

And I thought I was done with this machine! Haha. Thanks guys!

Is the fan on that GPU kicking up? Any dust in the heatsink for that GPU? Can't think of anything else.

Hey Svl7 any updates on an overvolted 675mx? and if no can you give me some pointers on overvolting. I know theres the P0,P5 and P8. but which one would you overvolt and what would be a recommended voltage ?

Hello there I have been using all the mods from the community (BIOS, vBIOS, light controller) which are great btw. Only sometime ago I have started to notice that my GPU (GTX680m) has been "shutting down" like if I leave it idle for too long it is like I have removed my gpu (not detected by the system, games or even nvidia control panel) and only restarting makes it active again. Sometimes after a full shutdown and turning on I get a BSOD the system restarts and boots normally, I think it is due to the gpu not being detected on the first boot. I haven't tried rolling back to stock everything yet. Does anyone have any idea of what might be going on? Could it be a hardware failure? Cheers

I had similar strange problems with my GTX 560M (the card I used to have installed), and I managed to solve the problem by reseating the GPU in the slot. So, it could just be down to a bad connection that might be solved by reseating.

Well, that's cool, looks like you've done all you can to improve the cooling performance.

I had a similar problem with an laptop a few years ago that used to run fine. I found two problems: one of the fans had a blade that was broken off, and I had no clue. Second, there was a ton of dust in it. After taking care of both of those issues, it cooled down and I no longer needed the cooling pad I had purchased (I had a cheap wal-mart one, though, so didn't spend as much as you did).

Yep, the first port of call for cooling problems on a laptop that's been used for a few months is: check for dust blockages = use cans of compressed air to blow out dust bunnies!

try to remove all the parts down from notebook then use that or you can make one cooler in home, i have one and my temperature stay in 70º to play world of tanks maximum grafics. i have asus G75VW 2.4GHZ/3.4GHZ 16gb 1600MHZ geforce gtx 670m 3gb

Hi, you've got the same GPU as me, have you seen this thread already, to get more performance out of your card:

http://forum.techinferno.com/general-notebook-discussions/1847-nvidia-kepler-vbios-mods-overclocking-editions-modified-clocks-voltage-tweaks.html

This GPU just overclocks so well!

I just recently found this forum and find the information invaluable. The technology and information you share is a great resource for all of us. I was wondering if there is also a list of unmodified stock Bios' listed?

Which one are you looking for? Maybe if someone reads the post then they'll post it here for you.

Ya I don't want to shove more power to this card so I think I'll mess around with the reference clock a little and see if I can squeeze some more MHz out if the processor. Surely I can get another 35-40 points out of it. I simply just want to break into the P9k and I be satisfied... I think. Power doesn't seem to be too much of an issue yet. According to the kill-a-watt meter the nb is drawing 155ish and peaked one time at 170 but still not enough for MSI's dumb hybrid mode to kick on.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

Haha, yeah, that NOS system is a real cop out for them; they should have just supplied a power adapter with enough Watts in the first place, and for them to then have the cheek to advertise NOS as a plus point! Haha.

Yes at this point I have to say at least the clevo 770M is not completely compatible with the 16F3.

What are you overclocked to for the people that are getting P9k in 3Dmark11? I for some reason can not get 9k. The highest I have been able to achieve is P8756 with the card clocked at 1020/3000 using the latest beta nvidia drivers I'm seeing a lot of machines breaking into the 9k mark with less clocks. Is there something I am missing here? CPU is a 4900MQ with setting the multipliers as high as it allows me to.

I have the same laptop cooler coupled with my P150sm. I've aimed the fans directly under the the vents beneath my laptop. It has done nothing to cool the gpu under gaming conditions. without the cooler. 93 degrees celcius. with the cooler 93 degrees celcius. Even with my envy 17, I never managed to gain any additional overclocking head room with the cooler.... sadly =(

Maybe there's some credence to the turbulence theory I mentioned then! Does it lower the temperatures while at idle? My notebook cooler lowers the idle temperatures significantly, but I've never bothered comparing the difference during gaming.

P9150 1006/6000 stock voltage NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-2960XM Processor,Alienware M17xR3

Ah yes, GPU score as I had expected for those clocks! That's a good score! How do your temperatures look, stock voltage?

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I do need extra voltage for heavy benching. On stock volts things ran for a while before a driver crash. I think it would be fine for gaming. I've added one stop of voltage just to be on the stable side. The card runs cool anyways always below 75C with my testing.

Does anyone else have an issue with clock speeds and readings? When I clock it to 915, it reads 906, to get 1006 I need 1010. It's not an issue or anything. Just curious.

Nice temperatures!

Regarding your clock speed reading differently to what you set, I've always seen this behaviour going all the way back to when I had my 8600M GT. It seems that GPU's can only go up in certain 'steps' of Mhz. In my experience it sets itself to the next lowest 'step' if you don't set the Mhz to the value of any given 'step'. (I'm surprised you've not noticed that before, you seem to have loads of experience with PC's - maybe I misunderstood what you were asking). I use GPUz sensor readings to see the actual Mhz it's set at.

I haven't gotten around to benching yet. Just moderate stress testing.

slowly slowly catchy monkey approach! :-)

I feel that it's just a really poor design in terms of cooling. The temps are the same from when it first arrived a couple of months ago... and pretty much on par with what others have reported from their dual graphics Y500's. I'm considering re-pasting with quality paste, but not sure that would do much. What I did try that helped was positioning a fan to exhaust the hot air coming from the side vent. The Y500 draws air from the bottom for both GPU / CPU and vents it out on the side. So sticking a fan right in front of that vent helps a bit, but it's not very ideal. I even tried removing the bottom cover, so the grate / dust filter aren't blocking air flow. Didn't do much of anything.

Ah I see, if all other users of the Y500 are having the same problem with the cooling, then you might just be limited by the poor design of the cooling as you say. Repasting is only going to give you a maximum of 5degC lower temperatures over a standard factory paste (if factory paste is applied properly), so it does seem that your options might be limited unfortunately.

Flashed the unlocked bios to a Dell GTX 780m. Works great. Heaven extreme runs stable even at 1006/3000Mhz basically GTX 680 clocks. Definitely a keeper. No issues with the 3D version of the M17x R4 apart from lost 3D. 120Hz still present.

Ooo, very nice! That's at stock voltage right? How do the temperatures look? What kind of 3DMark11 GPU score did you get? Sorry for all the quick fire questions! :-)

EDIT: that is indeed stock GTX 680 performance you should be getting then. So about 9500 GPU score on 3DMark11?

I have an M17x R3. Yesterday, my GTX 460m died (it doesn't show up in the bios).

Any tips or tricks to try and revive it?

Yep, it's happened to me before. Try removing the GPU & then reseating it. The procedure is outlined in Dells Manuals, I've attached it for you here. You don't need to remove the heatsink, you remove the fan & fan cable, and then just lift out the card & heatsink as one unit (after unscrewing the card from the computer). Follow the anti-static procedures, and all the other advice they give on 'before you start'.

M17xR3 service manual.pdf

You know, I was thinking the same thing. But I did test it with High Fans, Low Fans, and No Fans... the temps remained the same... within a couple of degrees of each other, but any temp change corresponded pretty regularly with voltage change... so, if one result was 2 deg hotter, you'd see that the voltage was also slightly higher at that time. So, now that the "cooler" is bust, I don't know what to do with the thing. Restocking fee is 15% + shipping cost. Seems pointless to keep though, it doesn't cool my laptop, and the thing just keeps sliding off the U3.

The reason I went with this setup in the first place was because I read a few success stories of 10+ deg drops with adding larger / better fans.

Praps the system is just right on the limit from a thermal perspective, and it's using the voltage (occasionally lowering it) to keep the temperatures under some kind of control, in which case the cooling pad & cooling system wouldn't be the determining factor for temperature - the voltage fluctuations would be the determining factor, which is what you mentioned. I know the 750M's put loads of voltage through the GPU's to get the high clocks, up to and above 1.1V I've seen in some cases. It does seem like any cooling pad is not going to help the situation greatly. Are the GPU's pasted up properly, did you try to re-paste them? Did you blow the dust out of the heat sinks & fans using a can of compressed air? Both of those things could help greatly.

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Hmm I have the Thermaltake Massive 23L and it seems to help keeping my Alienware M15x at a nice stable temperature of 73 degrees when playing Diablo 3 or Battlefield 3 and a very low 30-40 degrees when on idle.

I did find this on the internet when googling your cooling pad:

http://lanoc.org/review/hardware/laptop/4443-thermaltake-massive-23-lx

But it's still way better than not using any pad for sure! I think the OP should check for dust & GPU pasting as the culprit if he hasn't done already, I think that's the cause.

Wow, that's a lot of fans! I have a theory why it's not helping with the cooling, even though you've aligned the fans with the vents. (First off you've got them pushing the air at the bottom of the laptop, rather than pulling it away right!?) Just asking (said as more of a joke!), but I don't think it's that.

My theory is that if you have 'high speed' turbulent air being directly aimed into the laptops intake fan, then I believe that will decrease the efficiency of the laptop intake fan, because the air will be too turbulent for the laptop fan to manipulate & 'use'. Very slightly analogous to trying to breathe if you stick your head out of the car window. I think you could benefit by a more indirect flow of air which is more linear (less turbulent) and is more just like a gentle positive air pressure to the bottom of the laptop. I use the Zalman NC2000 for my laptop, and it drops idle temperatures on the GPU by just short of 15degC. I definitely think the analogy of more is better is not working with your laptop cooler, the air is just too turbulent for the laptop intake fans to efficiently redirect through it's cooling fins. That's just my wild theory though.

I'm not sure how you would test that theory though if you've only got that one type of laptop cooler there. You could try turning down the fan speeds to the absolute lowest perhaps, but still might be too turbulent. All just ideas! :-)

I can't imagine that software vmod for laptop's cards finally exist. It's simply awesome! Have a question about updating: should I use nvflash or need to reassemble the whole sys bios with new vbios and flash with FTK ? Because I've read something that telling "things getting complecated with UEFI" At previous post I've already asked about compatibility UEFI and this stuff but moderating my posts not so fast as I wish.

Thanks.

Hi, I'm really not up on UEFI, and if there are any different procedures required for flashing in that environment. For the record, I followed the flashing instructions signposted in the first post of this thread, and it worked perfectly for me, but I don't have UEFI.