laos

On 12/29/2015 at 7:34 PM, jaybee83 said:

have u tried throttlestop?

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Yes I have. Meant to reply sooner, but it turns out ThrottleStop helps with the inconsistencies, mostly. There is still some stuttering during benchmarking that I think might just be the limits of XTU, since it only overclocks the boost, and you can't raise the base frequency past 2.8 GHZ, unless someone found a workaround to this.

Performance is def. a lot better. Now I just need to do some fine tuning if possible.

1 hour ago, jaybee83 said:

please max out the following sliders visible on your screenshot and then try again:

turbo boost short power max

turbo boost power time window

turbo boost power max

processor current limit

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Unfortunately this did nothing to remedy the situation. I'll have to dig around some more I guess. Very strange!

5 hours ago, jaybee83 said:

if i understand correctly, your cpu is throttling right? are u sure its thermal throttling and not power or tdp throttling? to avoid such things, make sure to max out all the sliders in xtu pertaining to short / long power boost, tdp and amperages! basically max out everything that uses watts or amps as units and then try again

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Yep it's throttling. Very strange - I dropped it from 3.5 Ghz to 2.8 Ghz and saw performance improve in games like GTAV since the CPU stopped throttling. It used to thermal throttle at 95c but now it never gets past 80-85C, so I went and did the wattage boosts you recommended. I'm still seeing thermal throttling below 80C. Screenshot attached. There's no power throttling option int his version of XTU. Is there maybe a different version I should try? Underclocking gives me the best performance still, strangely. The CPU just keeps wanting to slow down.

http://i.imgur.com/IlnkWVZ.png

1 hour ago, jaybee83 said:

 

with high temps, it usually is a quick fix and yes, the 15 incher has aluminum hestsink fins, whereas the 17 incher gives u all copper on the cpu side. based on reports it can get you around 3-5C less, nothing to sniff at for such a bargain price!

what are your load / gaming temps like now?

been playing some tomb raider lately and maxxed out with all effects, max AA, AF, tressFX and whatnot at 2880x1620 resolution both cpu and gpu are in the mid 60s 980M at stock, cpu at 4.3ghz all cores with fans on auto

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Wow 3-5C really? That's pretty good for $30. Right now I'm on GTA V Very High 1080p, went from 98C to 75C -- however XTU is still reporting thermal throttling and I'm not sure why. Frame rates are meh. 50-60 then it drops to 20-30 in some places.  I also have a kill-a-watt plugged in and I'm not peaking above 180-190W so no idea where the issue is emerging and why it's thermal throttling with so much juice left to heat up. It's also overclocked to 3.6 or 3.8 Ghz I believe. The GPU (980M) is overclocked to 1263 MHZ / 2855 MHZ and I'm seeing 65 to 70C with solid performance. 

Are you using XTU? What settings? Trying to see what I can push on this, given the cooling mat + holes below the fan give it some crazy cooling via air movement. I see the CPU jump down 5-10C in seconds when the fan kicks up.

2 hours ago, jaybee83 said:

hm this sounds weird...

1) check dust accumulation in your system

2) when was the last time youve repasted your cpu? make sure to use a high performance TIM like ICD, GC extreme of thermal grizzly kryonaut

3) check if your cpu heatsink makes proper contact with the cpu die

4) check if your cpu heatsink heatpipes are damaged and working properly (get hot instantly when u heat up one end and touch the other)

5) when on desktop idle, check your task manager to make sure no background processes unnecessarily stress the cpu (botnet malware is known to do that)

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I was a bit worried about tearing it open, but the throttling got so bad i went ahead, opened it, found a chunk of dirt jammed in the heatsink, as well as some dried out IC thermal paste that had oozed out from the interface and along the sides. I cleaned it all up, applied arctic silver, and whattaya know, it's doing great now. Nothing above 90C and idling as low as 35-40C now, so it looks like that was the issue all along.

On 12/24/2015 at 11:33 AM, Bakedtikkapudding said:

The CPU heatsink of a P170xx is entirely made of copper (see attached image), this does not apply for a P150xx CPU heatsink. Try to get hold of a P170xx CPU heatsink, this will reduce the temperature significantly. I believe it is not really expensive

Never realized until now it's a copper pipe with some other metal (steel? aluminum?) fins. I see this for $30 on aliexpress, but I just reapplied the paste and it's pretty good for now, but i'll keep this in mind if I ever want to replace the heatsink with something more conductive.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Turns out it was something fixable after all.

I have a P150SMA with a cooling mat and a mod with holes below each fan ( CPU and GPU) to improve airflow. I can get my GPU to idle around 37 C but the CPU refuses to drop below 60 or even 70 sometimes, even when idling with max fan speed (Fn +1). The CPU and GPU fan appear to be working but it's clear that the CPU has a smaller fan, but perhaps it's not getting the best airflow? My games constantly thermal throttle the CPU, reducing performance. Any suggestions? Should I try lapping the cooler? sand the heatpipes? I'm up for whatever to get the CPU temp down. Also it looks like the screenshots stopped working since the forum upgrade

So any recommendations for a P150SMA owner? I see the 300 watt clevo with 4-pin, and my laptop has the 2.5mmx5.5mm -- I'd really prefer an adapter than any hardware mods. Anyone know anything that works without soldering the PSU?

Thanks,

that would more or less come down to your CPU and its performance

I'm sorry to hear that

I just jumped from 870M to 980M on my p150sma rather than buy a new desktop due to shipping concerns (I go west to east coast pretty often and prefer to have my main laptop with me) and I'm fairly satisfied. The value jump isnt good unless you intend to OC, for which you WILL need to do cooling mods. I had someone drill holes, install a fan, and improve airflow overall to help keep the 980m cool. If you can accomplish that, it can easily meet a stock. 980 desktop in performance. Stock cooling is not enough for the full power of a 980m

Basically get a USB stick, and download Ubuntu or some distro and just see if it comes up with this command in Bash:

How to create a bootable USB stick on Windows | Ubuntu

HowTo: Linux Show List Of Network Cards

If nothing shows here, it's very unlikely a driver issue and hardware related as linux should be able to see at the very least some sort of hardware identifier for your network card.

I was more-so wondering if you could get different diagnostic info from running a Linux live CD to see if drivers are the issue for a core hardware issue with the socket, as you've suspected. If everything else is working fine then i don't know, could be the MB socket. Your guess is as good as mine

I've notice high prices on older X80 series GPUs on rj-tech personally compared to the 980 at around ~$750 but TBH i don't even see many people on eBay selling cards, so who knows, might take you a few tries to sell it at the price you're happy with. $300ish doesn't seem too unreasonable. Only problem is just how many people out there want a 680...

this sounds much more likely software than hardware to me. Have you tried booting from a Linux live CD or something to see if hardware IDs show up in that environment?

Your Clevo model number I think matters more than your GPU type, assuming nothing is soldered in place. Not sure about differences between P150EM and P150SMA but it looks to be listed here on the compatible list for maxwell cards

http://forum.techinferno.com/clevo/3119-%5Bbios-vbios-mods%5D-prema-mod-stock.html#post54056

You need to flash prema mod, install the card, reinstall windows (i would, at least, if i were jumping AMD to NVIDIA,) and then flash one of those firmwares Prema posts. If you flash the OC one, then just install nvidia inspector and you can overclock.

also note this thread

http://forum.techinferno.com/clevo/8663-%5Bgpu-upgrades%5D-gtx7-8-9-p-em-hm-series.html

You need to set the BIOS back to Win8 and UEFI enabled mode after flashing a BIOS.

Also when going from AMD to NVIDIA card Windows sometimes also needs a fresh install.

Set Clevo Hot Key App (and/or Windows Power settings) to performance mode.

Thanks. I just did this and hopefully it fixes the performance issues.

Hi there Prema and others.

Looking for some help / suggestions. I installed the OC Firmware for the 980M and your Prema Mod for my CLEVO P150SM-A . I run 3DMark and I'm only hovering around 7000, and the GPU doesn't jump past 60 or 65 C -- I pushed +100 MHZ to 1200 MHZ on NVIDIA Inspector. Is there something else I should be doing? Should I just be bumping up the MHZ jump? Should I also be tuning voltage?

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980M video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-4810MQ Processor,Clevo P15SM-A powered by premamod.com

Thanks,

Well you have a laptop with optimus, so you wouldn't be able to overclock your screen nor get a higher refresh rate in a default screen, because you're limited by the iGPU. Hence why us enthusiast-type people hate optimus, and AT WORST it should be switchable on/off in the BIOS using MUX switches... at BEST it should not exist.

The panel improvement is for the colours and overall look, and is easier on a P150SM-A than you might think, but up to you if you want to do it.

Thanks for the info. These days I use my monitor, so i think i'll wait on it, but I do appreciate you letting me know about this. I might revisit in the future if I still have this laptop in a year or two.

You could try replacing with this: AUO B156HW01 V4 Overview - Panelook.com

Yeah, but panel replacement is a bit work-intensive, and all for something with better picture quality (I assume) but no increase in resolution or refresh rate seems like a bit much. But thanks for sharing. I did some some mods about overclocking the display, but the whole thing makes me very nervous!

It's hard to suggest anything without knowing the specific case type and fan types.

Here are the ways you can improve cooling:

1. Improve the tech that cools (faster fans, larger fans, better and larger [copper] piping/heatsinks)

2. Improve the total number of fans (get a different case or mod your case for a new fan hole)

3. Opt for water cooling instead of air cooling

Your motherboard likely has additional fan ports too, if you choose to DIY it. Fans are cheap. I think fan cooling depends on voltages, what they are designed to handle, and what your motherboard can safely output (which of course affects your PSU capabilities since you don't want to overdo it)

I've toyed around between Power Settings (Power saver, etc.) and the new "Power Saver" Win10 button you get on the battery icon, and I think the new "Power Saver" feature works pretty well. I noticed on my Spectre X360 that the battery life is about twice as good, and it really doesn't suffer too much in performance (even when running Chrome, which is ridiculously CPU hungry)

TBH it's frustrating though -- I like the new Power Saver, and how it can reasonably tell some consumption stats, but overall the whole thing is just too wonky for decent battery controls. Their own testing standards vary performance wildly too. a 12 hour rated battery on my Spectre is lucky to get 10 in real-world performance.

TBH I'll settle for USB Type C and USB 3.1 for e-GPU (that or TB3 or whatever can handle the throughput for e-GPU) so I can get some extensibility at the home desk.

What do I want? At the very least TB3 or USB 3.1 (Whichever is faster and out in mid-2016) for desktop e-GPU solutions. Kind of frustrating how little mPCIE options there are for desktop station kits.

I'd also prefer a better gamut / quality display. The display on my P150SM-A is horrid.

Sager 8268-S (P150SM-A)

i7 8200k (I think, somewhere around those stats)

870m

16GB RAM

256 SSD + 2 TB 7200rpm.

Starting to think about a nice GPU upgrade