rfu3

I just ordered a USB programmer and I'm going to attempt to flash my bricked bios without removing the two chips. I don't want to risk damaging the board by soldering.

Does anyone have a suitable copy of the bios suitable for flashing to the Winbond 16 (EC) and Winbond 32 (Bios) chips. 

Ideally I want to use the modded bios to put in a 5Ghz band WiFi card but for now any version will do as it is currently bricked.

There are lots of bios linked here including the latest original v3.05 - http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/11160-y510p-bios.html

If this is not what you are after then please let me know what you need as I have a Y510P running default bios v2.04 and will happily extract for you.

I've been holding off for a while myself. I really like the Auros but for CAD the SLI graphics is next to useless. I'm not a fan of the Y50-70 because of the horrible wireless card and I feel the build quality reduced. I was hoping Skylake would bring some brilliance but it has failed to impress the desktop market. At least it will bring with it new wireless cards. I am interested to investigate the build quality of the Gigabyte laptops so if anyone has any feedback on them that would be nice to hear.

Truth is, there is no good CAD range laptop out that improves on what you have. I'll keep you updated as I investigate further the new releases this month and next.

Please can you confirm, from your OP it appears you are using a dual-boot configuration. Do you select 32bit / 64bit at startup or have you just tested this after reinstalling several times?

Like all of the ones mentioned above. I don't know if these were mentioned...

Lost (good up to a point)

24 (by far my favourite series ever)

Alcatraz (has the guy in out of lost)

House M.D. (with Hugh Laurie)

I would consider the case as I have one that restarts the computer regardless of if I send it the shutdown command and the only way is to turn it off at the mains. It is a quick fix to disconnect the power and reset cables from the case to the motherboard and use either the switch on the motherboard or short the pins to start the computer. If it still switches on in the night you can pretty much rule out the case and then look to the PSU.

Friend using the test unit of the 1080P version and recommends to look only at 2160p+. I however am a social gamer and am reluctant to buy into this being the big advance in gaming it is described to be.

I have had my Xbox One Wireless PC adapter on order from Game for a while now and their website states release in 2015. I have heard however that the release will coincide with that of the Elite Xbox One controller which pre-order on Amazon for £119.99 at the moment with a release date of 23rd October 2015. Hope this helps but don't get your hopes up too much