Hello everyone! First of all sorry if this isn't the correct forum to post this.
I bought a laptop few days ago. The laptop is Sager P150EM.
Gpu: amd hd 7970m
Os: windows 8.1 pro
So my problem is that everytime i install the amd driver after the intel driver my laptop freezes or gets a bsod or something that stops it from working. Any help would be appreciated. I saw somewhere something about vbios does this matter anywhere?
i have m18x R1 model with A05 unlocked bios and i try to connect ati mobility 4870 card/s.
I read ton of posts but people that seem to have similar problem with different card didn't post any solution. Case is when i connect 4870 i get black screen and 8 beeps.
When i use only integrated graphics (no cards installed) laptop is starting normally.
When i use integrated graphics (nvidia card installed as master) laptop is starting normally.
When i use nvidia card installed as master laptop is starting normally.
When i use nvidia card installed as master and ati 4870 installed as slave laptop is starting normally but in devices manager i see there is error 10 with ati card.
When i use ati 4870 card installed as master i get 8 beeps and black screen.
I tried to google for answers but unfortunatelly didn't find any. Do you know if that old card can work in m18x ? Maybe it's not supported at all? Do you have any ideas what else can i try?
I reversed the input polarity on my m15x jack after a botched psu repair. Computer worked fine, but overall power control is messed up. System only boot on both battery and psu, no battery charge, and a very low battery drain (arround 6wh).
I aways had battery issues whith my 8 years old m15x after my original battery died. Bought a new one two years ago, didn't work. Checked on upower, basically no info on manufacturer, power or history. So i refunded and used the system hooked on the psu as usual. In August i bought a new one, worked flawlessly for a day. The next day the battery died from nowere. Checked upower, bus was ok, battery was charging extremely slowly (6wh), history showed subpar disharge before shutting down. I got mad at this point, decided that psu was to blame. Opened it, checked everything, noticed some wear on the male jack. Resoldered it, connected on computer. Nothing happened, so i checked the voltage. That's when i realised that i screwed up big time. I swaped the positive and negative wires. Decided that one mistake was enough, so i sent my m15x to a trusted repair shop (latter found that they just hooked the battery and gave me back as soon as it booted, they didnt even open it). Got my pc a week later, but the battery didn't charge . Worse, it was slowly discharging (same 6wh as before), and it needed both the psu and the battery to turn on. At 65%, it worked as usual for my college semester, but the battery is dead, and so is my computer. I bellieve i burned some voltage controller or something. I'm pretty competent at soldering thing's (evem smd components) when i know what to do, and i can understand simple circuit's, but when i got my hands on the m15x datasheet i got overblown. I cant make heads or tails about it. I aways lurked this forum and i bellieve your guys are the best when it comes to finding creative solutions to technical problems concerning microelectronics. I followed a guide in this forum as a teenager to upgrade this same computer to a gtx680m, overclocked stuff, got custom bios, and had a lot of fun learning. The m15x is a deprecated platform, but it's a part of my history that i dont want to let go.
So please guys, help me.
For when that rubber coating on your laptop phase shifts to fly paper...
Here is what I did,
Well documented by debaucher:
The palm rest section was the biggest offender for me;
>I used a plastic spoon and nail polish remover to remove the rubber coating:
>Obviously remove as many of the various utility boards as possible.
>I left the touch pad in place because this model used thermally fused plastic rivet like pieces to hold the light pipes in place and I found it easier to mask it off.
>"FrogTape Delicate Surface" worked very well for masking off various surfaces
>I used Krylon Plastic Paint as a base coat and 'Jet Black metal flake Automotive Paint;
>With the paint still setting up I dusted various glow powders over the substrate and dusted some additional black paint to achieve some depth to the effect .
>I after the automotive paint set up I use mate clear coat the overcoat the entire surface. I personally believe glossy clear coat would not look as good.
>Adjust as needed and re-assemble.
>I Used a USB LED clamp light available ebay/amazon $10 to illuminate
Hope you enjoyed the first post...
I'm sorry for making another thread just for this but I really wanted to pick your brains on this!
I have an m15x with a 770m running windows 7 and everything works. Rock. Solid. I'm pretty happy with it. Since windows 7 is on it's way out, I would like to upgrade to windows 10. Now I've looked into it before and had a really hard time getting the 770m to behave nicely and had all these issues with green/yellow/pink screens and I remember it being a miracle I got it to work on 7 as good as it does.
My question is how well does the 970m install vs the 770m - particularly on windows 10? I would buy it in a heartbeat if it makes the install less tedious with the colored screens and all that. Especially if all the functions work on it! I have been searching the internet and I cannot find nearly as many problems with the 970m as I could with the 770m, or am I just not looking in the right places?
Thanks a million!