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@svl7 , if you asked around the forum here and maybe at nbr, I bet you could find a decent number of people who might want a copy of that sink. I am a machinist and I also do estimating and quoting, so I know that a decent quantity will make the price drop quite a lot. Even 10 pcs would drop it an awful lot. In fact, if you send me the CAD file, I can have several different shops quote you prices. It wouldn't really involve a lot of work on your part at all, since you already have the dimensioned drawings. I might even tackle making one for the M15X CPU myself. Been thinking about it since I got mine a few weeks ago. Still tossing around whether I just want to do a bigger copper heatsink or try some ridiculous watercooling approach. Not much extra space in the chassis though, and I don't want to lose my 2nd HDD in the optical bay or the battery, so I am leaning toward a bigger copper heatsink.

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On desktop boards the die will break first because usually there is a strong backing behind the motherboard to screw heatsinks into. Since laptops lack this metal frame to screw into, with too much force the motherboard should break before the GPU die cracks unless you screw the cooler down unevenly. More pressure will certainly result in better temps and I've found laptop coolers to have very low pressure. It's hard to know how much is too much but from my experience you can make the pressure several times greater than factory without any problems.

I made my own cooler once with a waterjet and have done a bunch of other messing around with laptop cooling. The most important advise I can give you is that solid metal, even solid copper, SUCKS at transferring heat. This means that you want the copper between the GPU die and the heatpipe(s) to be as thin as possible, and use as heatpipes wherever you can.

The easiest improvement you can make is increasing the die pressure, but this should only get you a few degree improvement. I don't recommend trying to lap laptop heatsinks because they are difficult to sand evenly due to their odd shape making the weight on the sandpaper uneven. What might help a lot is making a wider copper base so that you could attach a second heatpipe. Heatpipes have somewhat of a wall of how much heat they can dissipate depending on a lot of conditions. An overstressed heatpipe can easily get a 20C or higher temperature gradient across it. There is a very easy test you can do to see if an additional or wider heatpipe will help you. Heatpipes are affected significantly by gravity. All you have to do is run your laptop at an angle so that the radiator is higher up at a 30 degree angle or so with respect to the GPU block. This alone with no increase in air flow can get you over 5C of temp drops by allowing the heatpipe to dissipate more heat at lower temperatures.

Increasing air flow will always help. I cut up some index cards and glued them to make my fan fins larger and dropped temps by 8C in prime95 (fan is quite a bit louder now though). I highly recommend NOT messing with the fan electrically. I've killed 2 for reasons I don't understand (one died at its top rating voltage after only 5s, and the other died when just touching it with a floating 5V). They seem to really not like being powered when not plugged in to a laptop when I was testing things with them. Don't mess with them except through software.

I just ordered 2 8mm heatpipes from enertron. They sell many different heatpipe sizes and lengths, and you can order in single quantities. You can only order them straight so you need to have a pipe bender and a vice to flatten them after. I'm expecting pretty big temp improvements assuming I don't mess up. I'll post the results along with what I did to the fan probably in a week.

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Awesome Khenglish sounds like a very cool endeavor. I k kw what you mean... a solid block is no good... SVL7's design had a goodidea of having those notches to increase surface area from a 2d dispersion to a 3d.

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  • 2 years later...
With a more recent model... maybe, yeah. But with the M15x? No, it's almost obsolete... If anyone is interested in the file for the 3d model... I'm sure we can find a solution, don't hesitate to PM me.

Hello!

I want that model to send it to CNC!

Could you please send it to me?

That is FUCKING AWESOME!!!!!!!

I have just get the 970M

- - - Updated - - -

Hello!

I want that model to send it to CNC!

Could you please send it to me?

That is FUCKING AWESOME!!!!!!!

I have just get the 970M

Please PM me the file!

Thanks a lot!, that looks incredible!

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  • 1 month later...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]4122[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]4123[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]4115[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]4116[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]4120[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]4121[/ATTACH]

Finally... :) Obviously it's not finished yet, still needs the heatpipes and fins mounted to it.

Got it milled as a custom job at a small German company which mainly specializes on liquid cooling solutions for Desktop hardware (liquid-extasy.de). It wasn't cheap, but one has to take into account that it's a single custom piece, and setting up the machine etc. simply needs some time. Considering this I'd say the price was fair, and so far I'm very happy with the result, though I only did some quick checks as I didn't have time for a thorough examination.

The only negative point is that it took way too long to get manufactured. The agreed deadline has not been met at all, which is naturally highly unacceptable.

Anyway, I finally got my milled piece of copper, and as already mentioned, so far the quality of the work seems excellent.

One thing I worried about were the mounting posts for the clips of the original M15x heatsink, which I use in my custom design as well. It seems my measuring has been accurate enough (fortunately!!) and the milling is highly precise as well (didn't measure it so far, but the clips fit perfectly :)) Also notice the MXM backplate looking through the holes in the clips in the last picture, a quite important detail... since it indicates that my design is precise.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]4118[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]4117[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]4119[/ATTACH]

I'm really happy that all seems to be fine so far, I hope that I can finish this soon.

hey SVL7 do you still have the heatsink i would like to acquire to make another or use that one shoot me a pm

this is awesome work

thanks

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Khenglish  I tried to put this in a PM but I see you can't receive them so I hope people don't mind me putting this here. 

 

Regarding your post above on increasing cooling capacity, I've added some copper vram heatsinks to my heatpipes and have a big 140mm fan blowing air on them which definitely drops temps quite a bit.heatsink-jpg.130170

 

I wonder if you have any ideas to take this further or how I might add more heatpipes with or without integrated radiator fins to increase cooling on what is quite a limited cooling system in m15x, particularly on CPU side, where fan bracket is integrated into the heatsink. I've checked out Enertron and may buy a few standard heatpipes just for fun (unless you have some spares?) but how do I go about bending them? 

 

Thanks! 

 

Edited by fatboyslimerr
added pic
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@fatboyslimerr

 

I do not have any spares. Unfortunately bending heatpipes is the hardest part. For bending and flattening, heatpipes like to collapse in the center, greatly impairing their ability to transfer heat. I've used a pipe bender meant for brake lines, and could only get around a 60 deg bend before the pipes begin to collapse. I think greatly heating the heatpipe may help with this, but I am not sure. I tried heating mine and they still collapsed, but they may not have been hot enough.

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1 hour ago, fatboyslimerr said:

Khenglish  Any other ideas to improve cooling based on the picture above? 

 

Not really. Probably more surface area with more/bigger little heatsinks for the added external fan. You can probably increase air flow for the internal fans with wider air intakes & exhaust.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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