Steve135 Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 [MENTION=119]Mr. Fox[/MENTION], I'm getting the equipment together to perform this mod. I've got an additional PSU coming but wanted to create a setup similar to your v3.0 (cast aluminum with plug in connectors). However to do this I need an additional wire to connect from the project box to the computer itself. Since I don't need the whole PSU setup I was contemplating on purchasing an 150W M15x PSU and just chopping off the wire portion and using this. However I'm not sure if the M15x or other Alienware laptop PSUs have the same signal wire connection as the M18x. It would also be drawing more current through the wire then an M15x would but I'm not sure if that matters. Do have any expertise here?Also I noticed an option in my BIOS that lets me deselect the computers checking for a official PSU, though I'm not sure if works. Does your v3.0 also connect the signal wires just like your v1.0?Thanks,- - - Updated - - - [MENTION=119]Mr. Fox[/MENTION], I'm getting the equipment together to perform this mod. I've got an additional PSU coming but wanted to create a setup similar to your v3.0 (cast aluminum with plug in connectors). However to do this I need an additional wire to connect from the project box to the computer itself. Since I don't need the whole PSU setup I was contemplating on purchasing an 150W M15x PSU and just chopping off the wire portion and using this. However I'm not sure if the M15x or other Alienware laptop PSUs have the same signal wire connection as the M18x. It would also be drawing more current through the wire then an M15x would but I'm not sure if that matters. Do have any expertise here?Also I noticed an option in my BIOS that lets me deselect the computers checking for a official PSU, though I'm not sure if works. Does your v3.0 also connect the signal wires just like your v1.0?Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I just finished reading through this thread and found it very enlightening. I had recently purchased a couple 780m's and a 2960xm and was all excited to get into some overclocking. To my utter dismay, every attempt at overclocking, be it the memory, GPU, voltage or combinations thereof, and I mean every attempt resulted in a worse benchmark score then the stock settings. I gradually increased each setting to avoid damaging parts, but my rig refused to give me any gains. Since my GPU temps never went above 79C I suspected a power issue and then subsequently found this thread.Using my recently obtained 'kill a watt' I found my system drawing a peak load of 309W with everything at stock. I believe this is already uncomfortable territory for a 330W PSU. Here are the results of my power drawStock Setup (780SLI)both GPUs: 850MHzboth Memory Clocks: 1,250MHzPower Draw: 309W max3DMark11 GPU score: 15,300 Best overclock i could manage w/o the system crashingGPUs: (1) 1,010MHz (2) 930MHzMemory Clocks: (1) 1,300MHz (2) 1,250MHzPower Draw: 318W max3DMark11 GPU score: 15,000For whatever reason it looks like my primary card will overclock a little more then its partner, however this is still what I would consider a very mild overclock. A loss of 300 GPU points in 3DMark11 I believe could be considered within the margin of error for the same setup, however that the performance actually decreases when the clock increases worries me.I believe my issue is just related to power, but if I'm missing something else here feel free to chime in. Am I correctly asserting that my performance decrease with the increase in clock is power related? Could I expect a good overclock with a dual PSU setup?Thanks, and Mr. Fox, you're awesome.I am pretty certain your issues are power-related also, and this dual AC adapter setup should help you overclock higher without losing performance or stability, or having the system abruptly shut down from lack of power. Your assumption would be right. If the system begins to become power-started your performance will suffer. Thank you for the compliment. @Mr. Fox, I'm getting the equipment together to perform this mod. I've got an additional PSU coming but wanted to create a setup similar to your v3.0 (cast aluminum with plug in connectors). However to do this I need an additional wire to connect from the project box to the computer itself. Since I don't need the whole PSU setup I was contemplating on purchasing an 150W M15x PSU and just chopping off the wire portion and using this. However I'm not sure if the M15x or other Alienware laptop PSUs have the same signal wire connection as the M18x. It would also be drawing more current through the wire then an M15x would but I'm not sure if that matters. Do have any expertise here?Also I noticed an option in my BIOS that lets me deselect the computers checking for a official PSU, though I'm not sure if works. Does your v3.0 also connect the signal wires just like your v1.0?Thanks,The BIOS setting only disables the warning about an unsupported adapter being connected. Getting a really cheap AC adapter for something like an M15x to steal the cord off of it is a great idea. Most Dell and all Alienware laptops for a number of years have the same type of ID chip arrangement and use the same size barrel and center pin connection. Yes, all three versions of the AC adapter box that I built maintained use of the signal wires. Open the box on the donor AC adapter and de-solder the ends from the PCB and save the strain relief boot (instead of chopping it off) so you can use that on your adapter box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve135 Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Thanks [MENTION=119]Mr. Fox[/MENTION], saving the strain relief boot is a great idea. I'll be putting it together in the next couple of weeks and let you know how it goes. Also I'm just curious in your benchmarking with the M18x are you using any type of laptop cooler or upgraded fans? I seem to remember a post a while back stating that you could get 11.7 cfm fans to replace the stock fans but I couldn't find anything with that spec on e-bay. Also I've read that if you just elevate the laptop, it will be just as good as a dedicated cooler. Do you have any advice here? Thanks again.Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve135 Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 [MENTION=119]Mr. Fox[/MENTION], so these puppies came in the other day, got the same ones you recommended in your post 65. They didn't come with any wiring diagrams or direction though. I'm guessing the pillar looking things with small holes on them at the top are what I need to connect the wires to. The center connection appears to be connected to the center post (+ve) and I'm guessing outside connection are the surrounding -ve. What I don't see clearly is where the signal wire is connected. Does the signal wire connection pass through these little devices? If so, what pillar is it connected with? If not, how did you make a plug in box with signal wire functionality? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 @Mr. Fox, so these puppies came in the other day, got the same ones you recommended in your post 65. They didn't come with any wiring diagrams or direction though. I'm guessing the pillar looking things with small holes on them at the top are what I need to connect the wires to. The center connection appears to be connected to the center post (+ve) and I'm guessing outside connection are the surrounding -ve. What I don't see clearly is where the signal wire is connected. Does the signal wire connection pass through these little devices? If so, what pillar is it connected with? If not, how did you make a plug in box with signal wire functionality? Thanks,[ATTACH]15862[/ATTACH] To answer your question, below is an image that @Nospheratu posted in his dongle tutorial thread.The signal wire is handled exactly the same as the original mod with the cables hardwired. You are merely soldering the wires inside of the box to the center pin (labeled ID line) on the socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessessoulmate Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Hey Guys, Just joined...i have a X51 R2 that i am trying to merge to From my Mid tower desktop,reason Being is i am working out of town, so im always away from home, and the X51 for me was the best option for mebut i have put my Gtx 980 in it, but i dont have a 330W Power supply yet. so all i can do ATM is Web stuff.i found this forum when trying to find a way to get more than 330W. is there a way anyone has this Mod already made and would be willing to sell me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve135 Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 hi every bodycan i use 50A 1000V rectifier?I just tried to build one with this, it doesn't work, only lets me max out at 360w or so. Not sue if it was the rectifier or something else. I'm getting the 40A, 200V version from mouser and going to try it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve135 Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Here's some pics of my build. Unfortunately it doesn't let me pull anymore then about 360w. It may be because I used a different bridge rectifier (I used the 50A 1000V version). I'm getting the correct one from mouser and going to try it instead. The cable going to the computer was ripped from a much cheaper M15x PSU and fits in the M18x like a champ and the ID wire works perfectly. I'm not sure if this may be an issue as well or not. I'm using the power jack connections pictured in one of the posts above. Of note I initially tried out the mod with just one power adapter going through the power jack connections and tested performance. It does result in a slightly reduced performance when wired through a power jack connector as compared to plugged straight into the computer. With this current setup, even with 2 PSU's and overclocked cards, I actually get reduced performance from what I get with just a single PSU plugged straight into the laptop. The duel setup will only pull about 360w at any amount of decent overclock and simply crash. It is stable at higher clocks and voltages though as compared to just a single PSU. [MENTION=119]Mr. Fox[/MENTION] if you have any ideas I'm all ears otherwise I'll just see if swapping out the bridge rectifier will work. Adapter with just one PSU connected to test the power jack connection (caused slightly reduced performance as compared to plugged straight it) Final Result (setup maxed out at 360w and actually reduced performance as compared to a single PSU plugged straight in) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Might be the bridge rectifier. The smaller capacity seems to do better for some reason. If using the one recommended does not work, then I'm not sure. I've built three of them and they all work good for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor JO Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Seems niceI wonder to try laterSent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve135 Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Another thing I can think of is that the M15x power cord that runs to the laptop just has one white wire, whereas I believe the M18x cord has two (at least according to the pictures in [MENTION=119]Mr. Fox[/MENTION] 's guide). I don't know if this would make a difference or not since the power should all run through the center pin in the connector that plugs into the laptop either way.My plan so far it to first try the new bridge rectifier, if that doesn't work I may just bypass the bridge rectifier all together and see what happens, if that doesn't work I'm going to chop into my PSU cables and hard wire the whole thing. It may take me another week or so to find the time to do this but I'll let you guys know what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve135 Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Update: I've just rewired my design using the correct bridge rectifier and still have no luck. For whatever reason, whatever overclock I place on my system, it will actually reduce the performance in 3DMark11. Additionally, I'm not able to pull more then 370W or so from my setup. I'm now wondering if it's something to do with the R1 circuitry as compared to the R2 which @Mr. Fox and most others use. I noticed in an earlier post that @Prodigal was going to try the mod with an R1 but didn't post any follow on comment as to whether this was successful. If anyone has successfully used this mod with an R1 I would be most interested to hear from them. Any other ideas from anybody on what might be the issue I'm all ears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digz6666 Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 The link you shared says 120$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soFluxed Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 how innovative, might make a cool project this spring after i dare another repaste :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rengsey R. H- Jr. Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 @Mr. Fox , Is there a turotial for the 2nd revision of the mod ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 6 hours ago, Rengsey R. H- Jr. said: @Mr. Fox , Is there a turotial for the 2nd revision of the mod ? No. The only differences between the 1st and second is using the sockets instead of hard-wired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EG0IST Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 For owners of the Alienware 18 solutions not found? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riri-Fifi Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 (edited) Very Nice My Dual PSU http://i.imgur.com/4RSfoso.jpg[/img] http://i.imgur.com/wzTNR8o.jpg[/img] http://i.imgur.com/WGD375E.jpg[/img] http://i.imgur.com/cS7Ub8r.jpg[/img] Edited June 19, 2016 by Riri-Fifi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brulio86 Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Sick mod man, really pushing the hardware to the limits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamiccolo Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Hello Mr. Fox. Was wondering if this mod is possible on 2x 240w asus adapters for my g750jz? Really want to pull this off but i wanted to know what you think about using this mod on an asus adapter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WR104 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Hi guys my adapter came with 330watt AC 100-240v 4.4A 50-60hz input, DC 19.5v 16.9A output, what is the point of using rectifier? i mean if i got same 2 DC output adapter do i need to use rectifier for doubling up? OR is it just enough soldering all the wires directly without rectifier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amenges911 Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack sparrow Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Great ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sHizz Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 heya. Know anywhere I can buy it instead of DIY? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
♛eQual!zє87♛ Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Thanks Mr. Fox. I like ure work. And thank u for sharing! eQualize87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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