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[G75VW] - modified BIOS & VBIOS for higher overclocking


svl7

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  • Bios Modder
On ‎04‎.‎05‎.‎2013 at 11:27 PM, Klem said:

For All!

Important!

In the BIOS of our laptop placed 8 videobioses. 4 for GTX660M and 4 for GTX670M. 4 Legacy and 4 uefi. For different ID board videocard. In the BIOS Mod.223 from the first post, svl7 overclocked only 2 videobioses. One for some id board GTX660M and one for some id board GTX670M. Overclock in Mod.223 only for some users. For GTX670M: if last digit number yours videobios 19 - you lucky boy. If last digit number yours videobios 1B - you do not have overclock. Number yours videobios you can see by GPU-Z. Unlock for menu options in bios setup - for all.

 

14 hours ago, tuguisergiu said:

Hi I have done all the steps with succes, there are some extra menu in the bios.

 

But the card is not overclocked. Please help i payed the membership just for this

 

G75vx

1.png

 

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On 8/15/2016 at 1:09 AM, Klem said:

For All!

Important!

In the BIOS of our laptop placed 8 videobioses. 4 for GTX660M and 4 for GTX670M. 4 Legacy and 4 uefi. For different ID board videocard. In the BIOS Mod.223 from the first post, svl7 overclocked only 2 videobioses. One for some id board GTX660M and one for some id board GTX670M. Overclock in Mod.223 only for some users. For GTX670M: if last digit number yours videobios 19 - you lucky boy. If last digit number yours videobios 1B - you do not have overclock. Number yours videobios you can see by GPU-Z. Unlock for menu options in bios setup - for all.

 

So does the unlocked bios work for all 660m cards? I have a 223 bios with videobios 80.07.2c.00.1e. Should I be ok with that?

Edited by Indy
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  • Bios Modder
2 hours ago, Indy said:

So does the unlocked bios work for all 660m cards? I have a 223 bios with videobios 80.07.2c.00.1e. Should I be ok with that?

Hi!

I think with 80.07.2c.00.1e vbios you can't overclock your 660m. Try read some pages below.

 

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  • Bios Modder
7 hours ago, Indy said:

Thanks for the reply. I think I'll stick to my +135 overclock for now. Time for a new computer at some point anyways :) cheers

If you want, i can make mod bios for your 660m with 80.07.2c.00.1e vbios. Send me your file backup via PM.

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So I have flashed Mod.223 and Ul.223 successfully, but the extra menus do not appear? I do have 19 on the end of the GPU bios, and so far no bricking activity or quirks, just no menus. (Defaulted every time, reboot, then still no menus)

I have a G75VW-DS73-3D (Rev A1, 2012) and started with the 223 bios (stock) and tried the links in the first post with those directions, and the links in the OP's sig. 

 

(Sorry if I missed something, I can't find the search thread option for this thread and the site search didn't seem to help.) 

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  • Bios Modder
10 hours ago, badinfluence7 said:

So I have flashed Mod.223 and Ul.223 successfully, but the extra menus do not appear? I do have 19 on the end of the GPU bios, and so far no bricking activity or quirks, just no menus. (Defaulted every time, reboot, then still no menus)

I have a G75VW-DS73-3D (Rev A1, 2012) and started with the 223 bios (stock) and tried the links in the first post with those directions, and the links in the OP's sig. 

 

(Sorry if I missed something, I can't find the search thread option for this thread and the site search didn't seem to help.) 

 

Try disable laptop with press and hold the Power button. Then disconnect the power adapter, and then disconnect the battery.

Press and hold the Power button about 10-15sec. Then connect the battery and power adapter, and enable laptop.

Edited by Klem
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10 hours ago, Klem said:

Try disable laptop with press and hold the Power button. Then disconnect the power adapter, and then disconnect the battery.

Press and hold the Power button about 10-15sec. Then connect the battery and power adapter, and enable laptop.

I did this before I saw this post, because I cleaned the fins and the less accessible part of the laptop (top of motherboard, back LCD hinge area, and changed my wireless card. For all viewing this thread, more dust accumulates on the TOP of the fans, than the filter thing Asus preaches as gospel. Mine was spotless on the bottom, and terrible on the top. I cleaned my whole PCB in prep for the ghz oc bios. 

 

Anyway I attempted to flash from Stock > UL > UL again > OC > OC > Stock, and left it on what I thought was stock. Come to find out that it must have a backup or "ram" bios because it never was reloading the CMOS when I entered it. It was just hot loading the same old bios. So I am not sure if I am on UL or OC, but the menus appeared after I was checking the fan sensors after the cleaning which surprised me. So I think I am good, I would just recommend someone add "Do a complete power down" to the last part of the 1st post just in case this is a thing. I didn't because I was afraid if I bricked it and did a cold boot, it would revel a bricked machine. 

 

Another good thing to add for this, is if your going to overclock, remove the Subwoofer. Because MAGNETS! A hard drives best friend! I think the internal speakers are worthless, and the sub takes up half as much room as the battery, so remove it and you have another fresh air vent and space for heat to disapate. Also if your not using the ODD drive, remove it too. It spins it at startup, so if it is dusty it is just wearing out for no good reason. I haven't installed Windows with a disk in 5 years now, so I cleaned mine, pulled it, and put it in a plastic bag so it will still work later. Lighter brick laptop with more space for air to come in and out, and heat to exchange. It is also very easily reversed. (Sub is 2 wires and 1 connector, ODD is 1 screw and a careful application of force. Also the ODD comes out with just the bottom cover off....)

 

Just wanted to add some 2cents to the thread hoping it helps someone bring new life to their G75VW. Fallout 4 is why I suddenly got back into gaming.

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  • 2 weeks later...

10 Days strong on the Overclocked bios, no excessive dust build up, better Fallout 4 FPS & features, and zero blue screens. Overclock holding with Max temp 65C with Fallout 4 at High settings with a few at Ultra. 

 

Wanted to say thanks, this bios brought my investment back to life, and encouraged me to start modding again, and start portable gaming again! Recommend this for the G75VW-DS73-3D along with replacing the HDDs with SSDs, removing the subwoofer, changing the wireless card to 5ghz (the G2 had this, wtf asus....), and adding 4gb of memory to make 12--->16. 

 

On another note, what is the difference between the 670 in the DS73 and the 670 that supports Nvidia Streaming...... Also can be modded to allow it? (at one point it DID say I could stream to Shield, but shortly after it was changed to say 670 or greater and I think is specified 670M-GTX.....which can't be that different....both do 3D...)

Edited by badinfluence7
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  • 2 weeks later...

Another valuable piece of advice. This bios exposes Power usage data and other info I thought was unnecessary to know. I had a oh shit moment today when my GPU driver kept crashing constantly. If your machine is as old as mine is, and you have never changed the battery, DONT PANIC. I finally took a shot at letting the battery charge back up with the system off, and it works great now. The battery had gone dead before and it was just to much to keep the machine going at Windows Startup with charging the battery and the OC/Bios/Bad battery.  (Tried safe mode too.....)

 

This kind of points out that all the wiring in a laptop goes through the battery, using it like a sort of capacitor. If you run into MB problems, changing the battery isn't as far off as you would think. In some cases before this, (and the reason I knew to check this), I have seen machines act bricked because the battery was messed up, (no lights turn on/fuses/polyfuses fine), battery removed, still no action, no power adapter...nothing. Most people thinks, well that is it for this machine.... Well not quite. Try a battery from another known good system. Don't spend money on a new or used battery just in case, but all DC to DC conversion start in the charging/mosfet protection circuits now. (Dell/Alienware/Sony/Asus Confirmed, others maybe (HP).

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  • Bios Modder
15 hours ago, asterik216 said:

I am really interested in this but I can not download any of it as I just registered on here :(

In this case you can read "User account promotions".

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Hi, I'm a new user.

 

Are there any users around who still have this notebook ASUS G75VW with 660m GTX gpu with 2GB of VRAM and use this modded bios? 

 

Any long term experience?

 

I bought an used laptop a year ago and applied the thermal paste. The thermal paste is now cooked for the cpu.

 

Is there a way to undervolt the 3610qm processor from a bios perspective please? 

 

The bios from ASUS give me a headache in linux. First box with a broken bios for myself. I wonder how this bios behaves from this topic.

 

ACPI Warning: \_SB.PCI0.PEG0.GFX0._DSM: Argument #4 type mismatch - Found [Buffer], ACPI requires [Package] (20160422/nsarguments-95)
 

--

 

I'm a bit curious on how you test those modded bioses or can ensure that the box will not be bricked?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok the CPU can be changed, so here is some advice on that one. The 3610 was very popular, but Alienware computers went up to the cream of the crop with processors. They motherboards were absolute dogshit. Poop! No one wanted to even try and re-flow some of them. Get your hands on a Alienware M14XR2 with a 3630 and if possible a modular 670. or the M15, M17. R2 is when they started to be shit. This does NOT apply for the R1s since they were not produced by Dell yet. Check my facts please! Alienware's documentation has been crap since they merged with Dell, just like their Half Dell, but not Dell Certified Tech/DSOD programs. 

 

Take your G75 down to the motherboard level and give it a good cleaning on any contacts. Then get your hands on a Stomach Pump or Liquid pump, and mist some 91/99 perfect Carisoprodol on the board for less than 5 seconds!!!! Suck it up as fast as possible taking any debris canned air or a compressor will miss. DO NOT leave it on for more than 5 seconds or let it pool as that will start to eat the conformal coating.

 

Now that error. It looks like the kernel is confused on some of the specific parameters it is looking for. My guess is it is getting an overflow of data since it is asking for XX/XX/XX (X/Y/Z Table) and getting more than it is parsing. (If that makes sense. Sorry if it doesn't, my knowledge of calls is basic.....literally BASIC....)

 

Long term wise... 3 Quarks. Pun intended......

---1. Sometimes the Computer does not Start when you push the power button. It Turns on, the keyboard lights for 1 second, then nothing happens. You cannot just power off, you need 5 seconds on the button to make any change. Ill describe why and a fix when I finish 2 and 3.

 

---2. Critical Heat! Before with the vanilla bios you could mess up a few times and get away with it. By this I mean leaving your laptop on a blanket and starving it of air heating it up well. Well not with this one. Something in the bios or configuration confuses Windows to not thermal shutdown correctly. It WILL throttle the GPU and sometimes the CPU, but mine would not thermal shutdown. I DID NOT STARVE MINE, I just tested it to about 75C which is about the point it should start throttling, by taking the cover off and only blocking the bottom air intake, not the recirc or top.

 

---3. BATTERY, POWER ADAPTER, POWER POWER POWER POWER!!! POWA!!!!!!

This is not addressed well in this thread. Your splitting hairs with this bios, but it does work unlike most splitting hair stories. You need adequate power! This can cause #1 and #2 and about 100 other problems ACPI related since we are backing off tolerances that were set pretty tight. Wattage Wattage Wattage! Our adapter are about 19.5VDC and 9.5A or.... SO THEY SAY! They are NOT efficient when warm. A 300 watt locked down circuit I made would not stay running for my G75VW's power Brick. I have the DS73-3D which is the 670 and my power usage when up at least 1amp when gaming, but it is not 200 watts like the adapter claims, It is closer to 250. Ill break this down better so its easier to read.

 

Battery (Claims): 1 hour battery life (Real when new....day 1 measured)

but after a year, 20 minutes. 

Why? Because these laptops feed power through the battery to act like a capacitor.......

When you overdraw the adapter 150% it shuts down, so to stop this the battery picks up the slack, but does NOT report that to windows. It took a lot of studying to find that, and I would love if someone could confirm this with a PCB analysis like I did! 

Here is the confirmation..... Drain your battery down as far as you can to the point the laptop wont turn on. Plug in your adapter and beat the shit out of it with a GPU intensive game. It should immediately heat up the adapter and the game will drop FPS like a madman. Once it is charged and the on-board Lithium Charger is in Trickle mode, your FPS will increase dramatically. It may dip at points, but power is holding us back on the G75 platform. 

 

--Forget your battery life. When you use the OC bios for this platform, your battery is enough to keep your rig running while your family trips over the power cord, but that is it. Forget about portability....

--Keep a good battery in the unit for the above information! I wish I could replace it with a bigger unit or better yet, a SuperCapacitor unit since density isn't the need for this unit, its force and instant response. 

--So 19.5V x 9.5a= ~185W. YES it is 19.5v, BUT you lose between 0.5v and 1.2v in the cord once your brick is hot....to resistance, cord length, and inrush current. (Possibly even more to the connector resistance after a few years of being pulled on and metal problems typical on laptops......

 

 

 

 

SO HOW DO I FLIPPING FIX THESE PROBLEMS.........

 

---1. If you have the power-up bug I described, its easy to fix. It has happened to me EVERY time I have applied the bios and has 2 mutations. (The first is the most common)...

-----A...Don't freak, save your Heart for when your old and need it. Turn unit on, remove AC adapter and pull battery while unit is on. This forces a cold boot of the bios and WILL fully reload the flashed/modded bios, not a "hot read" like in a few post up like I said. It even happens with the unit is fully powered off and then powered back on. You must remove the battery and drain the power to fully accept the new bios or to fix a glitch like this.

 

-----B......Will not apply modded bios or change settings.....OK STOP, don't just keep changing shit and hope it works. What is going on is the computer is not turning 100% off so it isn't reloading the bios from scratch. I have confirmed this 50 times over and if you keep screwing around when it DOES reload you may end up SOL!. First off, go into the bios and reload defaults! That will start the reload process properly and prevent any glitches that might have occurred. Next do the process in A. Power On, remove adapter, then pull battery. Replace the battery, plug in, and you should be on the modded bios without skipping a beat. 

 

-----I think A and B occur because of a UEFI glitch that saves the bios info when off, or to try and start up faster. Hopefully someone can translate that better than I. I am a hacker, not a coder, cracker, or theoretical guy.

 

 

---2.,3.,4,5.,6-10........

 

----Keep your Adapter cool and if it gets warm cool it down. You will greatly reduce your <185W from that adapter as it gets hot and drops in eff. My guess is, the bottom wattage is around 120W before it just shutdown and gives up. Overall it is an AMAZING adapter! It puts up with a lot of abuse, so its a great design. OEM engineering all the way! It is as important to keep it cool as it is your laptop!

 

----CLEAN YOUR DAMN MACHINE. Don't screw around, just do it. Don't complain, just do it. If you just did it and something didn't change or it got worse....DO IT AGAIN THE RIGHT WAY.......

 

----Let your battery recharge all the way before turning your machine on. With a weak battery the machine will have less power to run off the adapter and therefore will suffer from spikes. You may have to replace the battery, but keep this in mind. You don't need a new one! Just not a bad one. It is NOT worth more than 100 bucks for this laptop to replace the battery with an OEM battery. Do not get a refurb, just get a used OEM battery that is still good. (If possible) OEM new if nothing else. 

 

----Replace your Power Adapter. Again if you buy anything less than OEM get lost and stay out of this thread. Tolerances are there for a reason, and when a design is copied in China where everything is made, you loose some of that "reference" in a design to maximize profit.

 

----If you can find one, upgrade to a 12A adapter or 220W adapter, but make sure its 19.5V (NO MORE THAN 19.7V!) and >10A with Center Positive Polarity. More than likely this is going to come from a Dell Precision beast and you will have to cut the plug off and re-solder one that fits the G75. Leave this to a professional if your in doubt. These machines cost to much to blow up on a guess. Anything less than measuring with the proper tools is a guess or gamble. With experience in electronics your guesses get better, but you get a bit cocky and lazy....Always measure!

 

----Exchange your spinning drives for SSDs. This will increase response, decrease power usage, and decrease heat. YES about 50-70% of a 2.5' ssd is air to fit the 2.5' profile since SSDs and mem chips are evolving. Now is the time guys! This also includes removing the Blu-Ray or useless DVD-RW drive. The DVD-RW is horrible in this machine and the DVD-RW included with the Blu-Ray isn't terrible, but it is constantly tagging the drive for some reason.... unless you use it, ditch it, its more area to pull in fresh air and dissipate heat. This was the difference between the Modded bios and the Oc'ed bios pushing Fallout 4 from High to Ultra! 

^CAUTION: When going through airport security, they may be puzzled when your laptop gets X-Ray-ed. They will see a abscess and may test it. Its ok, its normal. Travel with the drive in the laptop and it won't get tested as much. They are friendly about it, they know what a gaming machine looks like and they may pop of few jokes about it. Let them know its for heat dissipation and they will chuckle a bit.

 

----Sub and Speakers? Might I say pretty flipping worthless even with Loudness EQ set properly. Ditch the Sub, keep the speakers. The sub is a great place for an extra air vent, and to open up the flow under the machine. We all more than likely use BT Headsets or USB headsets anyway since you can actually hear them. I am considering removing the audio board all together and putting in a USB DAC and BT Transmitter for my QC35s..... (Yes they make BT Transmitters, but since everyone is confused what they are, they are hard to find.....)

 

----Keep an eye out for my YouTube Channel. I LOVE this BIOS! I am on the same flash as my previous post and it has brought so much joy and life to my laptop (which I was about to give up on),

I plan on making a thank you video for my machine and to take this paragraph into a video so its easy to follow and so you can help me check my findings. Yes, I am not a pompous ahole. If you think I am wrong say it! I like feedback as long as it is logical facts, not drama. I want to keep my G75 going as long as I can. 

 

----I also have a few mods in the works for my machine since my flash is a few months old, my windows install 2 years old, and everything is as stable as possible. (With the exception of the issue with A and B up there...)

 

----Here is my YouTube Channel. I have a few chronic things slowing me down right now, but I am really pushing to get into the YouTube DIY maker videos and help people make the most of their stuff.

http://flaredelectronics.com

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxPThguXMj2Alk91EwGojxA

Edited by badinfluence7
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