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I just upgraded my i5-3320m CPU to a i7-3820qm.

BTW when I was browsing ebay looking for some CPUs, I stumbled upon a x230 motherboard. It shows that the cooling system has 2 pipes. Now I'm wondering whether the temp would get down if 2570p was also equipped with 2 cooling pipes.

I actually have one x220 heatsink at home but unfortunately it can't be fitted into the 2560/2570p system.

My latest attempt of adding a second pipe is in progress as described here.

The absolute best solution would be to fit a second pipe to a second fan, but there is no way to make room for such mod (according to me at least).

EDIT: The easiest way to lower your temps at the moment is to add a 42mmx42x1.2mm copper shim from eBay between heatsink and CPU (just add some thermal paste in between).

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EDIT: The easiest way to lower your temps at the moment is to add a 42mmx42x1.2mm copper shim from eBay between heatsink and CPU (just add some thermal paste in between).

I found here that a 25x25x1mm worked nearly as well as a 42x42x1.2mm one. Khenglish suggest it was the increased heatsink pressure that the shim provided that improved heat transfer which I agree may be the reason. In which case a simpler solution that a shim would be washers added to the heatsink screws to increase clamping force.

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Introduction

- Just convenient!

Ever since I installed my SSD raid my original HDD has just been laying around collecting dust.

I like the thought of being able too boot a secondary OS from the hard drive w/o messing with my raid config,

Personally there are a couple of applications that immediately comes to mind:

  • Secondary boot option: For a while I really wanted to test out Win8.1, maybe and even OSX,
  • Pretty fast file transfers: Look at the results
  • The notoriously large steam folder?

Now I need to find a mSATAp to USB3.0 adapter that actually works!

post-6049-1449499733366_thumb.jpg

Instructions

What do I need?

Installation

  1. Remove the USB-interface completely from the enclosure (leaving an open end)
  2. Connect the eSATA cable to HDD
  3. Wrap each short end of the HDD with a cut out stripe of bubble wrap and secure it tight with electrical tape
  4. Now the HDD should fit real snugly into the enclosure (should be a little struggle)
  5. Thats it!
  6. IDEA: By carving hole for the eSATA cable in the unused USB face plate you can make this even nicer!

Results

The enclosure:

post-6049-14494997335859_thumb.jpg

eSATA benchmark: AS SSD & CrystalDiskMark

post-6049-14494997333376_thumb.png

USB 3.0 benchmark: AS SSD & CrystalDiskMark

in progress

Interrupted boot: You can see that our system is capable of eSATA boot

post-6049-14494997336628_thumb.jpg

eSATA OS boot:

in progress

post-6049-14494997334422_thumb.jpg

post-6049-14494997335157_thumb.jpg

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Hi Jacobsson and Nando4,

Thank you for the replies. Yes I have the 3 year warranty pack, but my main problem is that I am now in Benin, Western Africa and there is no HP service center here that is accredited. I think I am better off buying from Amazon USA and have it freight forwarded to me here by DHL.

My question now is that I saw the FRU part number our 2570p laptop LCD as 685504-001 (12.5 in, HD, LED, AG, SVA display panel 685504-001) from the maintenance and service guide, and it is USD 141.00 in Amazon while it is around USD 50.00 in Ebay. Is the one in Ebay a generic brand and the one in Amazon an original HP brand? Is there any real difference in terms of display quality and ruggedness with these 2 different choices? I would rather pay more and have something that I can use for a longer time and original.

Amazon link: Amazon.com : HP 685504-001 PNL RAW 12.5 HD AG : Computer Internal Components : Electronics

Ebay link: Laptop LCD Screen for HP EliteBook 2570P 12 5" WXGA HD | eBay

Thank you.

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Hi Jacobsson and Nando4,

USD 141.00 in Amazon while it is around USD 50.00 in Ebay. Is the one in Ebay a generic brand and the one in Amazon an original HP brand?

Thank you.

Holy crap, $140 is a no go! @Tech Inferno Fan is there any reason the eBay screen wouldn't work?

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Holy crap, $140 is a no go! @Tech Inferno Fan is there any reason the eBay screen wouldn't work?

There doesn't appear to be any reason why it wouldn't work. At the computer shop I work at, we buy LCDs quite often off of eBay. All work just fine. I'd be comfortable buying the 50$ screen off eBay.

I never look for laptop parts or other obscure things on amazon, they tend to be absurdly (very absurdly) overpriced.

---

Plus, they are probably all made in the same factory anyways lol...

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There doesn't appear to be any reason why it wouldn't work. At the computer shop I work at, we buy LCDs quite often off of eBay. All work just fine. I'd be comfortable buying the 50$ screen off eBay.

I never look for laptop parts or other obscure things on amazon, they tend to be absurdly (very absurdly) overpriced.

---

Plus, they are probably all made in the same factory anyways lol...

Ebay screens are often scams where they mislead you into the wrong screen. If you just want a cheap screen it's fine, but if you're going for a high end screen you need to be careful. Bad listings are ones that list more than 1 model, or say "compatible". Look for listings that say "exact model", and list exactly and only what you want if you want a good screen.

Here is an example of a scam listing: New AU Optronics B156HW01 V 4 LCD Screen 15 6" Full HD LED | eBay

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Thank you all for the replies.

As I was researching more about our 2570p LCD display panels, I found out that different manufacturers produce our LCD, but the general consensus is that panels made by LG and Samsung are the best.

So I did some digging and found out how to know what is your LCD panel manufacturer:

Go to Device Manager > Monitors > Generic PnP Monitor >Properties > Details > Hardware Ids

Mine is listed as AUO206C which means that AUO is AU Optronics which was formed by the merger of Acer and BenQ.

I found in another forum that a 2560p owner is also using this exact hardware id for his LCD.

It would be interesting if our members can share also what kind of LCD manufacturer did HP use in building your rig. Please share :)

My next dilemma is finding out which of these many Ebay retailers are legit LCD sellers or even Amazon, as much as possible I wish to buy an OEM HP LCD display (which is also manufactured by other companies not HP) just for the piece of mind.

And are 2560p LCD displays interchangeable with our 2570p LCD displays? There seems to be far more 2560p LCD displays out there.

Thanks.

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Thank you all for the replies.

As I was researching more about our 2570p LCD display panels, I found out that different manufacturers produce our LCD, but the general consensus is that panels made by LG and Samsung are the best.

So I did some digging and found out how to know what is your LCD panel manufacturer:

Go to Device Manager > Monitors > Generic PnP Monitor >Properties > Details > Hardware Ids

Mine is listed as AUO206C which means that AUO is AU Optronics which was formed by the merger of Acer and BenQ.

I found in another forum that a 2560p owner is also using this exact hardware id for his LCD.

It would be interesting if our members can share also what kind of LCD manufacturer did HP use in building your rig. Please share :)

My next dilemma is finding out which of these many Ebay retailers are legit LCD sellers or even Amazon, as much as possible I wish to buy an OEM HP LCD display (which is also manufactured by other companies not HP) just for the piece of mind.

And are 2560p LCD displays interchangeable with our 2570p LCD displays? There seems to be far more 2560p LCD displays out there.

Thanks.

Device Manager shows I have a SEC4149, which I understand is a Samsung model. Same one I had in my 2560P so answers your second question.

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SEC4149 here!

@marvinix, it might be worth contacting HP and explaining your situation. Use Skype to call the HP toll free number in the US, it should be free. I thought I've read elsewhere that they let people under warranty do field repairs on their own if there wasn't a service center within a reasonable distance. If you do decide to give it a go, this laptop is super easy to work on. The only gotchas are that you need TORX screwdrivers in addition to regular phillips screwdrivers, and you should replace the thermal pad when you remove the base enclosure, but you can probably get away with reusing the stuff there if you're careful (YMMV). See page 78 of the service manual for what I'm talking about.

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Is it a good idea to set your fan at full blow when playing games (I use TPFan)? Using this method I can slash the temperature down close to 20 degrees (from 85 to 65 degress).

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And one more thing, the fan spins only up to around 3300rpm under "BIOS" no matter how hot it is which then permits the CPU's (3820qm) temp to get dangerously high (90-95 degrees) under load (games or 3DMark)!

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EDIT: (perhaps mods can merge this post with the one before, thanks!)

I decided just to limit the CPU to 80% under power options (it makes my 3820qm functions more like 3632qm I think). I get no noticeable performance drop while playing games except when there's heavy physics processing involved (confirmed with 3DMark). What important is, now my CPU temp never gets above 70 degrees (it was 90+ degrees before)! I know that it kind of defeats the purpose of installing a 3820qm....

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@jacobsson

Have you tried mounting the copper NC8430 fan? How is it going? I'm sorry if you have already done it and I missed the post!

BTW I've kind of "successfully" managed the CPU temp just by using HPFanControl, which I stupidly didn't know to exist before.... Now I don't need to limit the CPU using Power Options anymore and thus disabling the turbo mode, but I still want to lower the working temp especially when summer is coming. One thing for sure though, It's definitely not silent..., but I'm ok with it.

BTW again, here's my VID and TDP data from ThrottleStop (1024M, background processes as minimal as possible):

12x / 0,8556V OR* 0,8456V / 10,7W

23x / 0,8556V / 17,3W

24x / 0,8706V / 18,5W

25x / 0,8906V / 19,7W

26x / 0,9056V / 20,9W

27x / 0,9257V / 22,4W

28x / 0,9457V / 24,0W

29x / 0,9657V / 25,6W

30x / 0,9857V / 27,4W

31x / 1,0157V / 29,5W

32x / 1,0408V / 32,0W

33x / 1,0658V / 34,2W

34x / 1,0958V / 37,5W

didnt continue because I'm afraid that my CPU would explode because it had reached >90 degrees!

*) I got different values when I went up and then down again after reaching 34x multiplier.

Am I doing this correctly?

EDIT: forgot to mention that my CPU is i7-3820QM

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@jacobsson

Have you tried mounting the copper NC8430 fan? How is it going? I'm sorry if you have already done it and I missed the post!

Yeah I tried to cut the NC8430-fan down with a dremel in order make it fit our system, unfortunately I wasn't much left after I was done.

At the moment I'm trying to fit the x220 fan instead but I really don't think there is enough head room for a pipe on top of the fan though.

My last attempt is to fit a second pipe, sandwiched over the the original pipe to move some heat to our system fan, this is definitely doable!

The biggest problem is how to cut the slot in the radiator w/o totally demolish it.

Any suggestions would be very welcomed?

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Yeah I tried to cut the NC8430-fan down with a dremel in order make it fit our system, unfortunately I wasn't much left after I was done.

How about the NC8430 heatsink-pipe-radiator part? I guess it also cannot be fitted correctly?

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How about the NC8430 heatsink-pipe-radiator part? I guess it also cannot be fitted correctly?

'

No, unfortunately the shape of the radiator was inverted, meaning I'd have to remove the all fins and re-insert them 'mirrorwise' (if that's a word?).

well let's just say I ended up destroying them as well =)

The only upside is that the heatpipe has the same length/bending as the 2560/2570p heatpipe, which means this is a cheaper alternative for my sandwich-mod (rather than destroying an original heatsink).

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Long time lurker here and on notebookreview.com, was mostly following Tech Inferno Fan and his escapades with the eGPU. Started with a Lenovo X220 and a 660ti eGPU; now moved on to this lovely little machine, HP Elitebook 2570p. Below are my specs and potential upgrades.

CPU: i5-3360m (maybe upgrade to either a 3632qm or 3740qm)

RAM: 16GB DDR3L (Kingston, I believe)

HD: 256gb Samsung 840 pro + 500gb hdd (maybe replace with another ssd, thinking 750gb Samsung 840 evo)

GPU: eGPU Zotac 660ti

I love this machine! It's got the easy access cover, like my work Dell E6230. Feels a lot more sturdy than both the Dell and Lenovo. But alas, I do miss the trackpoint on the Lenovo, mostly the middle button.

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@Aikimox : I attempted to sandwich the pipes today and you were right, it doesn't fit into the system :(

The only thing I can come up with now is to add the second pipe from underneath instead of on top, a little hard to explain.

How did you manage this, any photos?

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X220/X230 IPS screens are available on eBayin ~$100 range

Hi @zeal33, does these IPS screens plug and play with our 2570p?

IPS screen on our little rigs will be awesome!

Any infos?

Thanks!

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